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Wasa by Bill97 - Airfix - 1/144


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Finished the lower shrouds on the foremast and starting the ratlines on the mainmast lower shrouds. Using my handy scale calculator I decided to go with my ratlines spaced 1/8” apart for a 1/144 scale ship. Looks pretty close to accurate. I am satisfied. 

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So 866 (but really who is counting🤪) clove hitch knots later I have the lower shrouds and ratlines on the foremast and mainmast! Now to the last mast. On other builds this was called the mizzenmast, not sure about the Wasa. I am using the molded deadeye pieces that came with the kit since the scale is to small to purchase deadeyes for all the upper mast sections and I want it all to be uniform. I have noticed that the deadeyes do not appear to be at the correct angle to line up with masthead so I will need to gently bend them with out breaking to get in more of a natural angle with the shrouds. 
 

 

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I originally thought that Michael but then it was worse because they pointed toward the lantern. The way they line up with the mast, the deadeyes should be pointed from about 11:30 to about 10:00 o’clock. If that makes since. 

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Another thing you will need to fabricate Michael is a cradle of sorts for the one lifeboat. The instructions show it positioned on top the main hatch but it there is no included part to set it in. 

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Thanks for the heads up on the davit Bill, you got me thinking on the lanyards so I did a mock up, part 173 is port and 170 is starboard as illustrated and they look to be ok at almost a vertical position. When I reverse them they look like yours, unless you have by chance the mast seated incorrectly, I'd remove the channels and switch them.

 

Michael D.

 

 

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Hummm Michael?  I am not sure now. You got me wondering. Here are a couple more pics. The mast is for sure where it goes. Do your’s seem to have this same angle? Definitely want to get this right before I start all the shrouds and ratlines!

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Michael I am starting to think you are right. Your last picture and my last picture look the same as far as the position. Need to decide if I want to risk damage trying to remove the two pieces or maybe heating the deadeyes and repositioning. 

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Posted (edited)

A tricky situation for sure Bill, I would scribe the mating surface between the channel and hull multiple times with a sharp blade/blades to separate the channel.

Michael D.

Edited by safemaster
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Michael you were absolutely correct. I did have them reversed. I was able to gently pry them off using an exacto knife to cut the “chains” under the channel from the hull side. Then with a little pressure up an down they came lose. I even saved the little assembly pins on the back of the pieces that go into the holes on the hull. Definitely more in line now. Thanks. Sometime it just takes a second set of eyes. I also ultimately decided to go with drilling a small hole in the cannon port covers, running a line through the hole, and tied a knot on the inside (lion head side). I also drilled corresponding holes above each hatch that I will insert the other end a touch with a bit of glue once I position the doors how I want them. This was the process on my USS Constitution and I think I looks OK. Thanks again for the sharp eye and using your model to experiment. 

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Ok. My wife had to have surgery today. As a result of Covid I could not be in hospital so had to wait most of the day in my car in the parking lot. I knew in advance this was going to be the case and that i needed something to occupy me during the wait. Is it wrong that I took my Wasa with me, push my car seat back, and worked on my Wasa while she was in surgery? 😊

Got my cannon port hatches installed while I waited and surprisingly did not drop any down between the seats. 

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Wow, talking about using your time wisely. I usually just take a book when I need to drop off my wife for one of her many doctor appointments. Your way is much more constructive. I hope all went well and she is doing OK.

 

Your work on the Wasa is looking nice by the way.

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Thanks Imagna. Yes I think all is good. A little thyroid cancer scare, but initial results look good. It was a 5 hour set in the car with a little reading and mostly working on my Wasa. 
I think next I  going to paint the lifeboat and fabricate the davits for it (not included in kit). Then move on to some of the lower stay rigging before adding the next mast sections. 

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Good day Bill,

She looks good!

Regarding davits on the Vasa... what do You mean?

As far as I know ,there were no davits in that period exists,in modern sence...boats mostly were just transported overboard,and do not store them on the deck.

Do You have information about Vasa davits, how they should look like?

All the best!

Kirill

 

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18 hours ago, Bill97 said:

I think next I  going to paint the lifeboat and fabricate the davits for it (not included in kit). Then move on to some of the lower stay rigging before adding the next mast sections. 

 

Hi Bill,

 

There was no davits for the boat. They hanged the boat up to the mainmast forestay, but those ropes weren't a permanent installation, used only on demand.

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Most of the time during this era the "life boat" was in tow behind the ship.

 

https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/collections/find-in-focus/espingen---vasas-longboat

 

It has been discussed whether Vasa's esping was towed behind the ship or carried on deck, and where it was when the ship sank. We currently believe that the esping was normally towed, as it was too large and unwieldy to have been brought on board.

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Interesting. The Airfix instructions have you attaching the esping above the hatch between the foremast and mainmast. Similar to other ships I have built. Looking at it I thought “I got to set it on something”. So I made and attached to little davits to two of the cross members of the hatch. Then set the esping in the davits. It does look big in comparison to what you might imagine the size of the crew members to be. But in building the model what would you do with it. May have to look at photos from other builders on MSW to see what others have done. Or just live with it as I have it. Again only those familiar with Wasa accuracy will no I am wrong 😊

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4 minutes ago, Bill97 said:

Again only those familiar with Wasa accuracy will no I am wrong 😊

If you read the entire text in the link in my previous post. 

Then you read that this is also a possibility.  Only difficult to perform by the crew to stock it there.


Let's say you have a great crew, that also is very handy 😉

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Posted (edited)

I'm a bit skeptic about that the boat was towed all time. This is a sure path to lose the espingen in high sea, despite the fact that weather was not factor in Wasa's entire life. What i know they used the yards to lift the boat up from the sea:

 

https://www.quora.com/How-were-longboats-jolly-boats-hauled-on-board-16th-or-17th-century-sailing-ship

 

Contrary, the dinghy is not modelled on board in Vasamuseet 1:10 :

 

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Edited by Veszett Roka
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I can appreciate the likelihood that Vasa's launch wasn't stowed on deck because the waist of the ship is not fitted with skids that would have facilitated the lowering of the boat along the ship's side.  What puzzles me is what the crew would have done to keep the launch free of water, if it were towed behind the ship, as is often seen in battle portraits; if there's any kind of weather happening, that little boat will fill with water, pretty quickly - especially if rough and pitching seas threatened to capsize this little craft.  I wonder how 17th C. crews managed this.

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Now on to studying the rigging instructions. I still have upper mast sections to add and upper shrouds and ratlines, but looking ahead to the standing rigging I find the instructions to be limited. On previous builds, especially the Revell USS Constitution, there were entire sections of the instructions devoted to rigging. Almost to the point where each and every rope was diagramed as to where it tied or connected to a block. Airfix’s simply supplied a single picture and chart for determining thread diameter. Based on experience, I can determine which lines in the picture are standing rigging and which are running rigging (for color choice). However looking at numerous pictures on MSW of other builds I know the rigging instructions are very simplified with a lot missing. Do not appear to be any back stays for masts for example. This is my first time at this small of a scale (1/144) so I can imagine that a great deal of rigging could be physically difficult as well as maybe overwhelming to just look, maybe?  So I am thinking I will do a combination of the Airfix rigging diagram and toss in some appropriate additional rigging here and there to enhance the appearance. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Woo Hoo, after a long while since I posted last I have reached the highest point of the ship. Top of mainmast. Following the tying of what seemed like 8 million knots I have completed the shrouds and ratlines on the lower section of all three masts, the upper part of the mizzenmast, and the middle section of the mainmast and foremast. Still have the shrouds and ratlines on the top section of both the mainmast and foremast as well as the small one on the end of the bowsprit. Have not had one of these before the Wasa. I did learn very early in the process that at this scale (1/144) the masts are quite flexible and fragile. As a result I found it a bit difficult to get the shrouds taught. I know they are not to be tight but just getting them to a smooth drape was difficult. Tighten a shroud here and two get loose there!  Back and forth 🤨.  I am satisfied with them. 

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