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Also, would the plates even be shiny by the time they were installed? There are some photos of a very shiny cutty sark today, but would this have been the case when transportation and storage of plates was a little bit slower and less air tight?

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So after running a few experiments I have finally come up with a decent process for the patina. 

 

I was then experimenting with rivet heads on the copper strips, I tried making a jig to stamp them in but I didn't like the effect. I purchased a pounce wheel with the thought of running down the strips before attaching them however I have found using the pounce wheel after the copper strips were attached gave the best results and was by far the easiest method. 

 

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2 hours ago, Krupi said:

So after running a few experiments I have finally come up with a decent process for the patina. 

 

I was then experimenting with rivet heads on the copper strips, I tried making a jig to stamp them in but I didn't like the effect. I purchased a pounce wheel with the thought of running down the strips before attaching them however I have found using the pounce wheel after the copper strips were attached gave the best results and was by far the easiest method. 

 

DSC_0007.thumb.JPG.e8f051c063b3bd21d7c74586e3ecc4a7.JPGDSC_0010.thumb.JPG.bdf58d7225b3e391598ae54860f967c2.JPG

Excellent work , great result

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I almost finished the sheathing last night but was one strip short of copper plates, finished it this morning. 

 

IMG-20210416-WA0001.thumb.jpg.3dffc63c4ea4da64949081bc0a6cf7f9.jpg

 

Before marking

 

IMG-20210416-WA0002.thumb.jpg.65690bcf79a132a460a30821d29c9a19.jpg

 

After marking 

 

Once happy I used cling film and tape to cover the exposed wood and then sprayed/misted the copper with a vinegar and salt solution (roughly 4 parts to 1 respectively) and left the hull in a fairly warm location to aid the reaction. 

 

This is hull after 30 minutes, the reaction has started. 

 

IMG-20210416-WA0003.thumb.jpg.702990c7ee10d50a53334967db83c3b8.jpgIMG-20210416-WA0004.thumb.jpg.795d7f25af71f236222b39ea583e647b.jpg

 

After about three hours the solution has dried and the reaction is more visible.

 

Time for another misting. 

 

IMG-20210416-WA0005.thumb.jpg.80a0c5db625627350c790be1ea32a5ae.jpgIMG-20210416-WA0006.thumb.jpg.58df61b6bca7f7422406efc4b6e269b9.jpg

 

 

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Posted (edited)

It has been six hours now and I have been misting the hull every hour bar the first three hours and it is coming along nicely. 

 

DSC_0021.thumb.JPG.fcd3ea68f82b7c49da7e70d5a8accb6f.JPG

 

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Once the sides have taken the green patina I will gently remove the salt from the bottom which should leave a dark tarnished look. 

Edited by Krupi
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2 hours ago, Krupi said:

I almost finished the sheathing last night but was one strip short of copper plates, finished it this morning. 

 

311.21 kB · 0 downloads IMG-20210416-WA0001.thumb.jpg.3dffc63c4ea4da64949081bc0a6cf7f9.jpg

 

Before marking

 

IMG-20210416-WA0002.thumb.jpg.65690bcf79a132a460a30821d29c9a19.jpg

 

After marking 

 

Once happy I used cling film and tape to cover the exposed wood and then sprayed/misted the copper with a vinegar and salt solution (roughly 4 parts to 1 respectively) and left the hull in a fairly warm location to aid the reaction. 

 

This is hull after 30 minutes, the reaction has started. 

 

IMG-20210416-WA0003.thumb.jpg.702990c7ee10d50a53334967db83c3b8.jpgIMG-20210416-WA0004.thumb.jpg.795d7f25af71f236222b39ea583e647b.jpg

 

After about three hours the solution has dried and the reaction is more visible.

 

Time for another misting. 

 

IMG-20210416-WA0005.thumb.jpg.80a0c5db625627350c790be1ea32a5ae.jpgIMG-20210416-WA0006.thumb.jpg.58df61b6bca7f7422406efc4b6e269b9.jpg

 

 

Looks great , looks like coppering was the way to go

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Posted (edited)

Ten hours in and it is looking good, some areas mainly the keel hasn't corroded so much thanks to the vertical position. 

 

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I am going to leave it overnight and start removing the salt residue tomorrow with any luck by this time tomorrow those areas will have darkened enough for me to apply a layer of sealant. 

Edited by Krupi
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Posted (edited)

All considered I am really chuffed with the results so far. 

 

I have removed the bottom layer with a makeup wipe exposing a lovely worn and brown patina which is shockingly exactly what I was after. 

 

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Question is now should I leave the top band of green patina. 

 

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The sealant will reduce the effect somewhat regardless. 

 

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So thoughts, leave the band or remove entirely what do you chaps think? 

Edited by Krupi
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Personally I think I'd remove it. Even if you feel it's more accurate, from an artistic/presentation perspective it may be distracting to casual viewers. I have a "soft" rule for myself that anything that's right but I feel like I should have an interpretive card explaining "well, actually" for, maybe I should rethink. But it's certainly up to you!

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On 4/17/2021 at 1:58 PM, Krupi said:

I think you are right.

 

I might remove quite a bit of it so the effect is toned down 

Maybe have a look at pictures of HMS Trincomalee?  Doing a quick image search shows plenty of pictures of her with green patina effect on the waterline you might be after.  Think you are right, maybe tone it down, but an interesting way of producing a real effect on copper.  👏 well done!

All down to personal taste, but like you I don't like bright and shiny copper, others people do, which is equally valid.  

Only comment I would make is that the "scale" effect of seeing a ship from the distance required to render is 1/60th it's real size will naturally "mute" any bright/strong colours, but I think a well done and muted green band along the waterline would be a great addition and "talking point" for many copper bottomed models.... thinking about my current build now.... 🤔

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