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aliluke

HMS Fly by aliluke - Amati - 1/64

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Hi

Been away from the modelling table for many months but now have the time and space to get going. A common subject here - HMS Fly by Amati. I launched this log on MSW 1 as many months ago with the start point being the binnacle. Odd place to start? I just wanted to get my head around the scale of the kit having come from 1:48 on the Armed Virginia Sloop model. Fly is much smaller. I'll probably paint the little chimney black but that's a detail.

 

I have also invested in the HMS Pegasus photo etched fittings to redo the quarter badges in the style of Andy. The Fly kit quarter badges are cast metal and I don't like them. I also like Andy's interpretation - my challenge is that I don't have the laser cut plywood pieces in the Fly kit but I've also started on them too using styrene sheets to replicate the laser cut parts from the Pegasus kit. When the badges are finished I'll get going on the real deal.

 

Weird ways around actually building a model ship but I'm using them to sharpen my eye and get myself back in the habit of modelling. I will not avoid the seriously hard stuff although it intimidates me.

 

Plans for my Fly:

- Make it as fantastic as all the other Fly/Pegasus builds on MSW.

 

End of plans.

 

Starting this log is my best way of encouraging myself to keep going. Here is the binnacle - my odd way of beginning.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Nice bit of miniature cabinetry there Alistair. Looking forward to more.

Wayne

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Looking good, I've had a hard time making time to model as well.

I find that if I sit and work on something small, it gets me going and I accomplish more than focusing on larger tasks.

 

BTW, I like the antique brass look of the chimney if you were considering not painting it, though either way will look good.

 

Ken

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Would you please explain how all the fancy gold "painting" is done.  There is a little on the stern of the "Fair American" that I am starting and I would like to know how to do it.

My hand is now where steady enough.

Thanks.

 

I do like the binnacle.

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Glad to see you back at your modeling table.  Based on how your Armed Virginia Sloop turned out, this is going to be one nice model.  I cannot wait to see future updates.

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The knobs on the drawers are nice.  And is there something inside the binnacle, visible through the windows?

 

Martin

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Thank you for all the replies!! No turning back now.

 

Ken - The scroll work on the Amati Fly/Pegasus kits is photo etched brass - painted off the model then glued on. I wouldn't dare attempt this by hand but I'm sure there are those that can.

 

Martin - There are two compasses and a central lantern inside the binnacle which are all visible but I doubt anyone one will be looking that close when all the other detail is layered in.

 

I am progressing the quarter badges in Andy fashion. I don't have the laser cut wood for the outer frames and base badge but Chris Watton kindly emailed me a PDF of them. I cut the outer frames out of 1mm styrene sheet - very difficult and there were many failures. The rest is sculpted in scrap basswood. Pictures attached. A trick I learned on my AVS build is to glue fix the component parts to paper - in this case the PDF print outs - to get everything properly aligned and then sand/scrape the paper off when finished. The brass PE frames are just dry fitted and there are many more adjustments plus the other decorations to add but I think it will be a lot better than the cast metal Fly kit badge when finished. After I get that done it is time to build a hull to attach them to!!!!

 

Alistair

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Edited by aliluke

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Amazing detail! I can't tell how small it is because there isn't a full grid of the cutting matt shown but it is really precise and clean for a magnified view

Ken

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Hi Andy

You should be flattered. Yours was a great idea and I much prefer the revised badge. Thanks for the idea.

 

I've nearly finished the starboard badge - see image. I will add the head decorations - the dolphins - later as I haven't decided on the colour for them yet. The head and sill are painted in my version of ultramarine, a very dark blue. This is derived from the Swan series books and seems better than a straight black to me. I'll use this for the stern transom and counter as well. It is a tricky exercise to bend the brass PE bits to  fit the curves and I'd say I was only partly successful, hopefully I'll get better on the port badge. The sill decoration is impossible to bend to fit and I'll leave it off - I guess you got to the same conclusion! The magnification in the image is cruel. I only noticed in the photo the two of the pillars are upside down. Nearly impossible to tell this with the naked eye.

 

Will finish the port badge and then get serious about making a hull to attach them to!!!

 

Alistair

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Edited by aliluke

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Hi Alistair,

 

Just catching up, you've done a beautiful job on the binnacle and quarterbadges, Sir, they look great :)

Edited by rdsaplala

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Oh yeah.... Fitting the PE decorations.... A story in itself.... The top dolphins aren't too bad, as long as you use only the top layer... The bottom bird is a bit more of a challenge as parts of the detail are on both layers... I've left mine off for now... One of those things I've been meaning to come back to, but haven't yet...

 

Andy

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Thanks Aldo and Mark

 

Andy - I tried to get the lower badges to fit but gave up. The dolphins were hard enough to seat - how did you get your dolphins to sit down? Must be a sailors experience with things from the sea!

 

Anyway here are the finished badges compared to the Fly kit supplied badges. Even though they are not perfect, I'm glad I took Andy's pathway for these. The colours in the photos are not quite reality - the window frames are much whiter and the head and sill pieces a very dark blue. I very lightly brushed off the dolphins to expose a bit of brass on their high points which adds a little sparkle to them in some lights.

 

Next I'll build the hull - no more indulgence in future details.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Hi Alistair:

 

Just getting to this - nice to see that you're up and running on the Fly - and a great start - your quarter badges turned out beautifully - I didn't notice the upside down pillars until I read about them in your post! Excellent work as usual!

hamilton

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Thanks Hamilton and B.E.

 

B.E. - I look through your fantastic log and the one piece I can't figure out how you did is the scuppers. Is that a tiny rivet that you used? It is a very nice detail and since I've stolen Andy's quarter badge idea I thought I'd try to nick your scuppers idea too...if you are happy to share.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Hi Alistair,  I used  slivers cut from some Aluminium tubing then flattened on the anvil to make the external scupper flanges.

 

However, I think Flyer (Peter) in his log has a much better method than I adopted, - here's the link

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/211-hms-pegasus-by-flyer-victory-models/page-7

 

There is also some additional information about the location and size of the scuppers.

 

Unless you are intending to drill right thro' the waterway and out through the hull (something I would not recommend) I think you can leave  drilling the scuppers until much later in the build than I did.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

Edited by Blue Ensign

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Beautiful work on those quarter badges, Alistair. The improvement over the kit pieces is extraordinary. I can't wait to see how you do the rest of the model.

 

Bob

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Regarding the dolphins... Getting mine to seat was a trial of careful bending and shaping. It looks like your ok with the shaping part, if you want, try bending the mouths (of the openmouthed one) upwards a bit (effectively closing them), it will gain you a millimetre or so.... And it helps.

 

Andy

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Hi

Yikes - modellers horror, first cut at the hull framing and I find my false keel is warped/bowed along its length. Lifts at the centre about 2-3mm off a dead flat surface. I'm dry weighting it at the moment but suspect little will change. I'll dry fit all the bulkheads and lower deck to see if it self corrects but worry that correcting the dry fit of other parts to a bowed keel will affect those parts too...If that doesn't correct it, I'll try wet soaking and weighting the keel and if that doesn't work! I'll have to go through the pain of trying to get a replacement part all the way to New Zealand. :angry: Or maybe I'm being too fussy altogether...

 

So I'll bug you by "deckin' around".

 

I decided to replace the Fly kit decking with holly. This was based on a chance replacement of my AVS decking with "white cedar" found in a local hobby store many, many months ago. I liked the white deck and practiced with charcoal caulking and wood paste treenails on a piece of spare billet. Found that test and applied the Fly/Pegasus decking tests to the same billet for a comparison. This time I used 4B pencil on both edges which is much cleaner than charcoal. The kit supplied planks have rough edges and need a light sand to smooth. The holly needed no edge sanding but I was surprised by how white it was especially compared to the AVS cedar and wondered if I'd made a very big mistake! Searched through the forum and found holly decks on Rafine's Syren and Fair American (didn't look further) and breathed a sigh of relief!! I like those decks and the search engine on this site is just fantastic!! Type "holly" and find all references - great stuff!

 

My decking thoughts for Fly/Pegasus:

- The kit supplied strip has a grain that is too loose and too prominent for the scale and the deck colour is too dark for my taste.

- Caulking at this scale should be as fine as you can make it - some suggest that it should be nearly invisible but I still like a line. 4B pencil both edges is maybe excessive - I'll try it on just one edge next.

- The holly is nearly white but I think with coatings and light exposure it will yellow off. There are many other wood choices too but I like pale.

- The palest paste I can find is a bit darker than I'd like for the treenails but they, at least, nearly disappear at certain viewing angles while giving good detail at other angles.

 

Attached photos under intense magnification:

1 - Experiment with white cedar, wood paste and charcoal caulking for the AVS a very long time ago - I went with charcoal (messy) and the palest wood paste.

2 - AVS deck after 7 months - no case and UV light exposure - much more yellow/mellow and a bit of grunge - I like that change (but it might need some dusting).

3 - Kit supplied Tanganyika with 4B pencil caulking to both edges - note grain and difficulty of getting a clean edge for caulking due to hairy edges on supplied planks even after careful dressing.

4 - Holly strip with 4B pencil caulking to both edges and wood paste treenailing (no attempt to align holes). Will next do another test with single edge pencil to reduce caulking width.

 

All examples have been finished with Testors Dullcote.

 

Anyway - frustrated by my keel so just fiddling and fuming. The whole decking thing is a subject (and subjective topic) in it's own right. Where I've I got to in my opinion is:

- Make the decking pale and very tight grained. Tight grained is most important for scale - I just like pale...

- Keep the caulking to scale - very thin or near invisible. Pencil is my choice - easy to apply, not messy, doesn't bleed into the planks and looks great.

- There are many ways to do treenails but paste or wax is very easy.

- Treenails should be the same colour as the decking but since we bother to do them some contrast is worthwhile - keep the colours close so that when  you look along the deck at a low angle the treenails disappear.

 

All and only opinions!

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Edited by aliluke

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Your AVS deck looks excellent to me Alistair, and I totally agree with your intended approach. I didn't like the Tanganyika strip supplied with Pegasus so I used boxwood instead., I would have gone with Holly had it been available to me.

 

Keel Hogging was a problem suffered by the builders of the real thing, but it is a damned nuisance to find it in your kit. Is the supplied keel plywood or MDF, mine was MDF and it kept true. Has it thrown the slots for the bulkheads out of vertical?

 

I hope your remedial action solves the problem but if not it is a tricky call to make whether to continue. I think I would request a replacement anyway.

 

B.E.

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Thanks B.E

It is ply - me thinks harder to fix than MDF but at least the wetting of ply won't distort other aspects = MDF will swell. I think I'll wet it and try to get it flat. I doubt my chances but I think it is better than trying to tune the other bits to a corrupt piece. If the wetting fails I'll try and get a replacement. Annoying since my mucking around with other pieces was just to get into the groove and now I want to build! Should have checked sooner - I've had the kit for a year (carefully stored!!).

 

I'm thinking of getting boxwood for replacement of the upper planking and the coamings - could absorb myself in that for a while...

 

Cheers and thanks

Alistair

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