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aliluke

HMS Fly by aliluke - Amati - 1/64

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Hi

I've decided the figures in the middle are being seasick. Vomit is the only description for the detail.

 

Anyway I've had another go at painting the stern casting. To increase the curvature I snapped off the outermost cherubs and re-glued them at an angle. The metal piece is glued to the backdrop ply piece but that is not yet glued to the transom piece. The curvature of the metal piece is now greater than that of the transom piece which is what I wanted. I also re-painted the quarter badges to link the colour scheme. In a few days time, when the paint is really dry, I'll clear coat the pieces and then polish them (a few other touch-ups are needed as well) this will reduce the grainy look of the paint finish. Behind the scenes is mass production of the cannons - boring but satisfying.

post-259-0-22260900-1400213648_thumb.jpg

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Just enjoyed a re-read thro' your log Alistair, what a very fine Swan you are creating, looking forward to seeing the stern facia in place.

 

B.E.

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Hi Alistair -- I like that blue & gold combination -- it brings out the shape of the fish really well.  And if those middle figures are seasick, that would mean that the sculptors carving them would have had a great sense of humor.

 

Cheers (or Urp)

 

Martin

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Hey Alistair.  I like your color scheme.  Also, the match between the stern and the quarter badges.  The red tassels below the windows goes really well with all the rest.  I never liked the green fish on the stern.  Will the area around the windows be red?

Great work.

Cheers.

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Alistair - you really have an eye for the colours,the stern fascia and look fantastic, despite the deficiences of the molding its easy to look past that when it all ties together.  Can't wait to see them installed, very well done!

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Hi all... wonderful work Alistair!

 

Alistair when you mentioned that you were going to clear coat the finished and painted stern decoration, is it as simple as applying a matt wood varnish or is there a better product for painted surfaces?

 

Julian

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Nice colour combo there Alistair. Looking forward to see it installed, vomiting cherubs or not.

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Very nice result Alistair.

 

If you are intending to use a stern lantern, it's more convenient to drill the hole for the lantern's crank before finishing the stern casting.

The figures in the middle are, according to NMM plans, 4 cherubs playing flute and in middle of them is the lantern's crank hole.

(In the kit's plans there are only 2 cherubs).

 

Kostas

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Hey, thanks all. It is still a work in progress...

 

Ken - those green fish sure weren't mine and never would be! I'm thinking about the colour around the windows...either blue or yellow ochre. I'd now like all the window frames to be yellow ochre but it is too risky to correct on the quarter badges as a tiny smudge of yellow on the window "glazing" would be really hard to fix. I'm still staring at this and pondering.

 

Julian - Testors Dullcote. It is a bit of trick to use on paint as it tends to dissolve the paint slightly even when it is utterly dry. This is actually good for these pieces as it will improve the blending. But I use it with caution - paint it on like it was an individual colour otherwise I'd blend blue with yellow etc. Polishing will be done with cotton buds and tissue paper and then I'll have to touch up as the polishing exposes the metal underneath on the high points. Round and round in circles.

 

Thanks Kostas. Good information and there are two vague cherubs - actually they have become more visible. If they are throwing up or playing flutes remains a mystery. Certainly something is coming out of their mouths! Good call on the lantern too - I'll pre-drill that hole for the lantern crank, I have Chuck's lantern kit. Well spotted - thanks mate.

 

It'll be a while before I fix this piece - gotta get the quarter deck on which implies all sorts of other things to be made and installed. Cannon production continues...

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Added the teeth. All dry fitted at the moment. I was going ask you whether I really needed to sand off the laser char on the trucks. But my photos answer the question - yes I do. What a pain! It'll be worth it though. Cap squares and other parts to come. Next is to rig those that lie below the aft and fore decks and get myself deck planking again.

post-259-0-78164400-1400409076_thumb.jpg

post-259-0-50062900-1400409082_thumb.jpg

post-259-0-44342100-1400409088_thumb.jpg

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Jeez mate, looking great, awesome to see things come together.. Your planking looks so neat and tree nails..   Caulking is precise.. 

 

I had a thought that trucks should maybe look dirty on outsides and the char kinda looks like it, but yeah maybe not quite that look.. .. Regards ollie 

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Hi Alistair, she's looking great - nearly all dressed up now :)

 

cheers

 

Pat

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Actually I like the trucks.  They look like they have had some use.  they aren't brand new. 

Great workmanship, as usual.  I really like the look you achieved on the outside of the ship; really great!

Cheers.

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It is looking good, Alistair.  The photo along the hull, capturing the guns proud is especially nice.

 

This is a pretty tedious part of the build, involving lots of repetitious work, but I agree that touching up the trucks will be worth it.

 

How are you going to rig the guns?

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

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Thanks Ollie, Nigel, Pat, Bob and Martin for your thoughts and kind comments. Much appreciated.

 

Nigel - I don't have any power tools at all. I wonder sometimes whether I should review that...

Ken - I've started cleaning off the char but leaving some shading behind. It looks a lot better but is tedious to do by hand.

Martin - Breeching rope and side tackles. No rear tackle. I've been through this discussion with Ken on Fair America and reckon the rear tackle can be authentically left off and keep the deck much cleaner.

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Alistair -- I have to admire you for your resistance to the power-tool urge.  For a long while I promised I would master handtools, and then . . .  I got my Byrnes saw, and then, well, I really needed that scroll saw, and a Dremel would make life a lot easier, and so on.  Now, whenever I sharpen up a chisel to do some touch up, I actually miss the slowness of handtools.  And then there's the question from the Missus:  another saw?

 

As for the rear tackle -- I fully agree with you:  at this scale that rigging lying all over the deck looks more like clutter than a working ship.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

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That looks truly sensational Alistair!

 

Everything you do is so neat, and precise and looks just perfect!  I am glad you have decided to leave the rear tackle off so we can see more of that deck :)

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Thanks all for comments and "Likes"

 

Here is a super magnified gun rig. This is the aft most so the rig will be unable to be seen, a good place to test things out for the waist rigs. My thoughts:

 

- The double block at the bulwark is wrong , it should be single but I don't have enough singles to support that so they'll stay as doubles.

- The stropping of the blocks should be rope but I'm going to keep cheating and do them in wire.

- The breeching rope looks really long but was set out with the cannon fully recoiled and some space for re-loading between it and the port. To scale, at least, this is how much rope is actually needed.

- The tackle blocks are too close together. I'm playing around with reducing the length of the blocks and really tightening up the hooks to make the distance between them greater. Also I think I will pull the cannons in slightly and slightly spread the eyebolts on the bulwark. All up I'm chasing is 1 or 2 mm of further separation. These are 3mm blocks - 2mm would have been better but I just can't afford to buy anymore at the moment. On the flipside the references I have show the blocks almost jammed together when the gun is run out.

- I will be doing coils but not for this cannon - it can't be seen.

 

I'd forgotten just how fiddly these rigs are to do. Hopefully I'll get them up to scratch by the time I reach the waist where they'll be seen.

 

BTW:

Barrels are from RB Models - a size fit.

Carriages and bolt set outs are from Syren Models

Rope is from Morope - would be from Syren but I ordered well before Syren came about.

Blocks are from Warner Woods West - again, would be from Syren but I ordered before Syren came about.

 

 

post-259-0-86897700-1400922520_thumb.jpg

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The breeching rope looks excellent Alistair.

 

I cheated with the side tackles and made the block strops and hooks in one piece out of wire. It saves a fair bit of space over using separate hooks, but the 2mm blocks also helped. The tackle line  (0.15mm dia Morope) I fed thro' the strop wire before securing it which also saved an eyelet on the block.

 

Not authentic but at normal viewing I think looks ok, whereas overscale tackle rigs and blocks too close together do stand out to my eye.

 

B.E.

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That looks tremendous and I know better than most the difficulties

The breeching rope seems spot on to me - thats the length required.

 

The tackle spacing is indeed the problem getting to look nice - but i think you have managed it very well.

I approached the "gap between blocks" issue by using smaller blocks and allowing for the tackle to hang loose and dip a bit.

 

Also  not fully running out the guns helps!!

 

With such a good picture it doesnt show the true scale very well - great job.

Edited by SpyGlass

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Yep B.E I did the same. The rope is secured to the block and then the wire is run around it and twisted to form a hook. I can't get the hooks, rope and wire any tighter than this - it is really tight. My blocks are too big. I'll sand them back and then try setting the gun slightly inboard to gain a bit of space. It also could be the carriage length and the position of the eye bolts on the carriage...to the naked eye it looks pretty good. I'm just punishing myself!

 

Thank you for looking in and your advice.

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Thanks Spyglass - you dropped in while I was replying to B.E. Weird old internet world we live in. I want the tackles to be tight so fully run out is where I'll head. Monfeld certainly shows the blocks almost jammed together on a fully run out rig. It doesn't look good to my eyes so some adjustments are needed before I get to the waist.

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Just as a guide for size - if it helps - heres a quick pic of  my "test"  tackle rig against a scrap metal Fly Gun.

I think it shows you can get the effect you seek by using smaller blocks.

 

post-905-0-10996000-1400940450.jpg

 

The tackle is just a fraction longer than the ones I actually made up and measures 23mm hook to hook.

Uses Chucks 2.5mm (lovely) blocks with twisted wire strops and hooks.  Hook and eye on single block at bulwark and just hook on single block at the gun end.   The rather strange frapping of the free end over the tackle lines is  just a series of overhand knots to hold in place while i figured out the size.

 

PS you may wonder where my guns are  .... they have " temporarily " gone to join my missing PE piece along with several other significant pieces like the capstans and bitts.

But my building works finish soon and  I expect lots of things to appear as I put things back where they belong.

Edited by SpyGlass

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That looks terrific, Alistair.  And I'll agree with the others & you that getting the blocks spaced is always a teaser at this scale where a millimeter can make a difference -- and it's hard to stay consistent with all the guns.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

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Frankly Alistair, I think you're beating yourself up unnecessarily. The blocks are going to be close together with the guns run out. Try smaller blocks if you wish, but they will still be close. Few of us (certainly not me) can get the hooks small enough to be right.

 

Bob 

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Thanks Spyglass, Martin, Bob

 

Bob - I'm actually pretty happy with the rig but will still try to tweak it further. I'm certainly not going to buy smaller blocks and there is no way I can make the hooks smaller. The eye bolts I'm using are also very tiny so no leeway there either.

 

Spyglass - The big difference with the metal, kit supplied, cannon carriages is that they are much longer than the Syren Model carriages. The FFM suggests the carriages should be 18.4mm long. That is more or less exactly the same length as Chuck's carriages. The metal carriages are about 24mm long so straight away you are adding several mm's to the distance between the tackle blocks. I'm not sure why you twist the metal for the hooks? Is it for strength? My hooks are just formed from untwisted wire which helps keep them very small. They are also seem strong enough to take the tension when the tackle is pulled tight.

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Alistair, the cannon and tackles look fantastic, certainly no reason to agonize over the slightly smaller blocks.  As you know, everything will blend together, but seriously, that cannon could pass muster as a standalone exhibit in its own right.  Hope I can achieve something close to that good next time round.  Well done.

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