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What do you mean you didn't count all the holes!?

 

Very cleanly done Alistair and the holes look very uniform. I'm looking forward to seeing you fill them with a product I can get here too rather than trying to find alternatives to offshore brands.

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Thanks all,

Maybe I will count the holes...it will take less time than drilling them did. Hamilton, just click on the thumbnail and they are almost all there for you to count!

 

I have now filled and done the first scrape and laquer and I'm happy with the result - touch ups needed but not many. It is very hard to see the treenails at all except from certain angles. That is what I wanted - drill a 1000 holes, then fill them to make them invisible. I must be crazy.

 

Timmo - the wood paste is just boring old Wattyl from Mitre 10. The colour is "Pine", the palest they make, mixed with "Neutral" which is white. Probably about 4 parts white to one part pine to make it very pale. The deck is holly so it is very pale too. The idea being to almost match the deck colour.

 

I'll now leave the deck alone and get on with the big bits.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Edited by aliluke
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Hi Alistair, those Amati anchors are ok for the Stream anchor apart from the stock, and they do go a nice shade of grey when immersed in Pewter Patina stuff. The Jotika ones not quite so as yet, but trials continue.

 

The Stern lantern is from the Caldercraft Victory lantern set (part No 87110). It is a sore point and I'm not really satisfied with it, and I don't think it will be included on the finished model.

 

The one you can see is the central stern lantern but it is a fraction over scale. One of the side lanterns is a better option almost spot on for overall size but again is the wrong shape and there are too many glazing bars for the scale.

 

Matters are much improved by removing the glazing bars from the top and bottom of each etched section, leaving just one central bar across.

 

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This is a side lantern modified with reduced glazing bars and it looks more in scale.

Still in a rough state, I had great difficulty in getting a clean finish on it and  keeping the clear acetate clean.

 

I'm going to have another go at modifying a side lantern, and hope to improve significantly on my previous efforts.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

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Too bad, those books are just too damn expensive (+ shipping), so I will have to use other sources and among them also your log, if you don't mind. 

 

 


Thanks Vitus - the capstan step and partners are all taken from Volume II of the TFFM Swan Series
Alistair

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Thanks for comments - Vitus, feel free to copy anything you see and like!

 

I have made a test cannon. Not very happy with the barrels I have - they are white metal and I can't remember where I got them. May have to look at Chuck's...The carriages came up well though. But I have a problem the cannons do centre on the gun ports - they are too high. This is partly because my holly decking is thicker than the kit supplied stuff - something I've only just realised (which is dumb of me). However the difference is only about 0.5mm and doesn't account for how high the gun sits. The kit supplied cannons sit even slightly higher - so my carriages aren't totally to blame either. So I have a couple of options:

- sand down the deck at the perimeter - increases the overall camber

- modify the carriages

- lift the plywood gun port pattern???

- lift the height of the port cut outs???

 

So do those experienced with Fly/Pegasus think the last two options are dangerous? I'm talking about a lift of around 2mm but I can't gauge the potential future consequences of such modifications. Thanks in advance of any advice.

 

Here is a picture of the test cannon anyway.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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A little hard to tell from the photo but are your replacement gun barrels the same size as the Amati originals, which are over scale. I didn't have the metal carriages with Pegasus but I did replace the wheels which I thought were a liitle too large at the front with slightly smaller ones.

 

I used RB brass turned guns which are spot on for scale, but had they been around at the time I would certainly have looked at Chuck's.

 

I think I would explore other options before I either messed with the decks, or the gunport pattern levels, those patterns are difficult enough get right as it is.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

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Andy, B.E - thanks for the very quick replies.

 

I have modified the carriage slightly and it helps. I will also lower the elevation of the barrel with a higher quoin  The barrel is smaller than the kit barrel and by the TFFM is the correct scale. The attached picture exaggerates the difference but it is certainly smaller!

 

After posting I came to the same conclusions - work the carriages, maybe take a little off the deck but leave the ply patterns alone. I'm off to Chuck's site next but think I'll stick with the carriages I have (I may get one set of test carriages from Chuck) and just replace the barrels.

 

The axle pins are wrong  - in the finished cannons they will both be at 45 degrees.

 

Thanks

Alistair

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B.E - Yep - will definitely upgrade the swivels. Probably will stick with my Lumberyard carriages. By better seating the axles and trimming the top I've made them lower and they look good enough for me. The wood is Swiss pear - so a nice product. One more test is available before production but planking beacons as well. The cannon test against the plywood formers is important though and I'm glad I got these issues figured first.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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The evil ply patterns are in progress. Starboard done and port in third wet/dry clamping process. Like others have said here, the plywood patterns are a big hurdle. Mine take the jigsaw puzzle joint well aft of the bulkhead where they are meant to meet. There is no reason for this except that the kit bits must be slightly wrong. The forward template is hard into the rabbet at the stem and the jigsaw joint is tight yet the aft end protrudes past the end frames by about 2mm. No biggie - cut, file, sand and save.

 

The vertical blocks were an attempt to get a clamp to the lower edge of the pattern to reduce the potential warping between bulkheads. It was a total failure - a really bad idea. In the end I stole some map pins off my daughter and used these to push the patterns into shape. To get rid of the warping between the frames I ended up just brush wetting the plywood pattern and then working it between my thumb and forefinger. There is now very little warping , so I guess that worked even if the other idea didn't. Thumb and fingers win!

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Looking fine.

 

Before we lost the site I had a coorespndance with Chris Watton the designer and he said that he allows a bit at each end of the strips

 

I found the jigsaw joint goes back so just about one mm stays on bulkhead and the stem end needs trimming a bit depending on how much sanding you have done on the forrard bulkheads.. Beware the kink that can develop if the first two bulkheads are not nicely curved.

 

Main problem once you have got it as well shaped as you seem to have is to get the rear sections to match. I think get one side on and match the other side even if the jigsaw joint gapes a bit top or bottom.  But yours look fine and i concur - its actually easier to get the final bottom edge adjustment done with finger pressure rather than attempting to clamp exactly

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Nicely done Alistair! ... and with not so many clamps either it seems... hum.  ;) But then, what clamp can beat fingers indeed!

The jigsaw happened to be roughfly at the same place as yours on mine too... it seems to be the general rule on this kit.

Planking coming soon?  :)

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Now that I look at more of your log, I see that the stern on the previous page is indeed not yours.

Sorry - I've been thinking a lot about sterns lately.  My Fair American has a fairly simple stern decoration, but the scroll design will have to be painted on.  I have been practicing.  The photo was taken at the US Navel Museum where the original model is located. 

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Edited by KenW
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