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aliluke

HMS Fly by aliluke - Amati - 1/64

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Know I'm a bit late to the party Alistair, but those cannons look very nice.  For what its worth (probably not a lot!), to me the Syren cannon looks much more to scale compared to the carriage than the lumberyard one.  As BE points out there was quite a bit of variation, Chuck's barrels definitely look very nice.

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Absolutely beautiful build. I do love the decking and it had made me definitely want to go with Holly.

 

 

Are the companion ways Swiss pear ?

 

 

What did you use for your 1st hull planking, boxwood?

 

 

She is coming along fantastic. With regards to the cannons both look great to me!

 

Cheers mate

Rowan

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Nice work on the hull Alistair, looks excellent.

 

The Amati copper plating set is No: 4392/05 and it is the Pegasus set.

 

I see CMB show it as out of stock, but The Model Dockyard, also in Cornwall, show one set in stock

 

Here's the link.

 

http://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/amati-Copper_Hull_Plates.html

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

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Thanks B.E in both ways. Will check out Dockyard for price.

 

I sure do like the shape of this hull and I'm pleased I got around the stern and up to the lower counter without incidence or need for any little triangular infill planking bits. A fluke I think but means I can expose the boxwood above the waterline with some confidence.

 

I also just picked up from the FFM and your model that there were two more sweep ports than the kit provides. I don't think I'll try to cut them as a disaster beckons...

 

cheers

Alistair

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Beautiful planking Alistair - it does seem a shame to cover it up, but at the same time, I think the contrast will bring out the beautiful tone of the wood that much better. Well done

hamilton

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Really nice work on the planking, Alistair. There is something about the look of boxwood planking that's hard to beat. It's always a hard call whether to cover it with copper or paint, but you should go with what you will be most satisfied with when you're done.

 

Bob

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Do you have still a query about the number of plates Alistair

I am not coppering my Pegasus I decided that I couldnt bear to cover up my planking - perhaps you will reach the same conclusion

 

So I have a set somewhere - I will look them up and count them if there is a question still

 

Or I am sure there are other Victory Pegasus builders who can give the answer

 

The manual says  part 4392/05   1000 supplied - 500 left and right 

 

BUT the Amati spare with that serial number says 182 each side!

Edited by SpyGlass

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Hi Alistair -- I have to agree with you that the shape of the hull really is nice looking.  It makes me wonder if coppering would detract from that nice shape.

 

Planking is tedious, but when done well, it has to make you feel proud, eh?

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

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Alistair are you mad?! Covering that expertly planked boxwood with copper seems a waste... But you are master and commander of His majesty's sloop Fly so over to you.

What about sticking a few plates to a piece of paper or something and holding it up to hull to see if it's really what you want before taking the plunge. But I suppose I was the man who asked the group for votes on colour schemes on my build so I do see the irony here.

Wayne

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I'm with you Alistair, all down to personal taste though.  Must confess that I'm in the copper camp where it is appropriate for the ship.  Coppering seems to be neglected a fair bit (and possibly looked down on) but (in my humble opinion) if it is done well it can look just as striking.  The Amati plates I think are also the best out there so I'm sure it would look great.

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Well finally finished the second planking - glad to have it behind me. I ordered the coppering set but at best it will do a third of the hull so I'd need at least 2 more sets - that is getting very expensive so I may re-think. Leave it natural??? Unfortunately since I planned to copper I was lazy about planking butt positions so they are a bit random which inclines me to cover it over with paint or copper. The hull is yet to be lacquered and the stern post installed (getting it to sit tightly is proving difficult). The lower counter is a very dark blue (ultramarine) but looks black in the photo. I will also install a trim at the counters lower edge where it joins the hull planking.

 

Next up is the inner bulwarks and then deck details which will be a fun task after the tedium of planking.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Geez Alistair, displaying that beautiful planking job in a natural finish seems like fate. ;) 

 

But either way, copper or bare, you can't lose!  Nicely done.

 

Robert

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Hi Alistair:

 

Wonderful planking job - it seems a shame to cover it up! But if the aim is correspondence to the historic vessel then you have to go for it - tedious as the coppering is! 

 

Are you planning on featuring the rivet heads on the copper plates? Why not go for maximum detail, eh?

hamilton

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Very nice job Alistair, well done.

 

A sod about the plate numbers, a bit ambiguous, as they are described as intended for Fly, Pegasus, etc; I had 90 plates left over plus spoils and cuttings.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

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Alistair, the planking looks really nice. It seems like a win - win situation, whichever way you decide to go.

 

Bob

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Summer- summer ???  oh yes  I forgot we are international !!

 

Well i am just settling down to the winter of cosy nights building

 

If you are still having a problem with the stern post - you could try offering it up accurately and drilling through into the keel ply and insert a dowel or two. They wont show under the rudder. I also have one through the walnut keel strip into the base of the stern post.

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Said I wouldn't post for a while - I lied. Planted 40 ferns today and, in our hard ground, that was draining but I spent the mind time thinking about the inner bulwarks planking for Fly. It is extremely difficult to paint the sweep ports with red without it straying onto the edges of the outer planking. Solution - install sweep port lids. I just made a prototype, dry fitted only - not good enough yet but the magnification is very cruel - and have the hinge side towards the bow. The strap is blackened jewellery wire - it got a bit messed up in the gluing process - easy fix for the next ones if I do them. The trick is I can paint the inner bulwarks in red and not have to worry about getting a clean line to the outer planking in the sweep ports - this would be a nearly impossible task otherwise. An elaborate way of solving a problem that doesn't exist? I plan to line all of the gun ports with pre-painted stops which overcomes the painting issue and will keep the boxwood edges clean - I think...

 

I haven't seen a hinged sweep port lid on any Pegasus/Fly models so I'm interested in opinions. Is it correct? Should the hinge be forward or aft of the port? There is a contemporary model of Atalanta in the NNM which shows sweep port lids but it is hard to tell which side they are hinged from. I think I'm trainspotting here but interested in what you think...

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Hi Alistair,

 

My approach to painting the inside of the sweep ports was to use Tamiya tape around the port covering up the boxwood planking, and use a flat profile brush (Size 00) to lightly draw the paint from in to out around the port. I did the same with the gunports.

 

Re the sweep port lids.

 

The lids were hinged on the forward side, with the horseshoe pointing aft as you have shown it. On the inside of the lid would be a ring bolt to close it.

 

I can't see any reference in the ffm Swan books about sweep port lids, but the thought strikes me that as the ports are on the open deck, rather than below the upper deck which is the case on many ships (the Blandford is a case in point)  there would seem little purpose in them being lidded.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

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Thanks Dirk and B.E

I kind of figured that the hinge would be forward but you make a good point B.E. I won't add them, if at all, until much later so will try your painting technique with the tape first. I couldn't find anything in the FFM about them either. The Atalanta model has them, so thought I'd have a play.

 

Sort of thought I'd take a break for a while but the model just keeps drawing me back as I try to think of the next steps. Bugger - I'm addicted.

 

cheers

Alistair

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Ah HA - just considering the same point. Making lids seems a bit extreme to get a good paint line but that one looks nice.

 

Just pierced the first holes for the oar ports on mine - i shall wait and see how you get on prehaps !!

 

I resorted to two things in the past -

varnish or paint the external hull first and then you can get a nice clean "wipe off" and

using masking tape - but I realised you dont have to put it exactly on the edge - you can over lap over the gap and really press it down on the very edge of the port.

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That's a good looking model, Alistair.  I'm following your strategies and solutions in preparation for my own Fly, which will come up probably when you're having autumn and I'm planting ferns.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

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Thanks all for your comments, likes and inputs.

I realise from replies that my query about painting the ports was a bit ambiguous. What I'm trying to do is pre-paint the port stops so that I leave the thickness of the external planking in natural timber. According to the FFM the stops go on the sill and jambs of all of the ports including the sweep ports. There is no stop at the head. Putting stops on the sweep ports is beyond me which is why I thought of putting in the lids to get rid of the issue. I've decided I'll go this way now but will install them later as the hull can't be sanded with the hinges in place (not that I need to sand it anymore but touch-ups are inevitable...).

 

Here - still requiring touch-ups - are the stops on a port and you can see the boxwood thickness of the external planking is unpainted. A small detail but one I'll try to achieve. The stops are 0.5mm thick strip which is about the right scale for the 1.5 inch thickness suggested by the FFM.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Looks very good Alistair.  Putting stops on the sweep ports beyond you?  Knowing the quality of your craftsmanship, I seriously doubt that!

 

Robert

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Hi Alistair,

 

Since my previous post, upon rereading, sounds almost like a challenge :), I thought I should at least offer a suggestion as well. You may already be using this technique for the stops in your gun ports, but just in case…

 

Rather than trimming the stops to size before gluing in place, leave as much extra material on the inboard side as is needed to grip and accurately position each piece until the glue sets.  I used thick ca to allow time for positioning.  Once dry, use a sharp knife blade to pare back most of the excess – this works well since it’s fairly thin wood, and you’re slicing with the grain – then sand flush.

 

Cheers,

Robert

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Ah I see what you're trying to do now Alistair, and your example there looks good.

 

I considered it but having seen many contemporary boxwood models with the ochre paint extended to the outer planking line, I eagerly grabbed this as a get out of jail card and followed suit.

 

I too passed on the fitting of stops to the sweep ports, hell they are only 3mm square with stops of 0.3mm thickness, that is a feature not apparent to my eyesight at 1:64 scale.

 

Were I looking to torture myself tho' I would have used Evergreen styrene strip of 0.25mm thickness. ;)

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

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Hi

Haven't posted for a while. Have finished the inner bulwarks and got my port stops in as well as managing to get the sweep ports painted to expose the boxwood edge of the outer planking. The internal bulwarks took much longer than I expected due in part to some mistakes and backtracking.

 

Also I made my version of a ships stove. I was determined not to spend long over this and finished it in two sittings - about 5 hours. I did not do any of the forward details, the grate, spit and drain tray as they can't be seen - so some short cuts and I'm sure that saved me an enormous amount of time. The finish looks grainy in the photo but to the naked eye it looks like iron so happy with that.

 

A lot of time has been spent fixing mistakes including excising and replacing a small section of discoloured deck planking and an equally small section of external planking where one had popped.

 

Sorry - not much to offer in this post. More deck pieces next then a long summer and sun break.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Edited by aliluke

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Neat job on the port stops Alistair, and the stove looks good. a silly question - you have made sure that the tray fits between the knees of the riding bitts?

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

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