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aliluke

HMS Fly by aliluke - Amati - 1/64

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Hi B.E

Yep the tray fits between the knees - that was a key aspect of my set out but I'm dumb otherwise...the stove is too high ( I thought it was too narrow) it doesn't fit under the beam so I've ripped off the tray and trimmed the stove down in height and will rebuild the tray. Your impression was correct  - it looks too wide but actually that impression is because it was too high :(. All is ship shape now, the trimming quite easy, but I still have to make a new tray - the next one will be from card to keep it very thin.

 

I might try and make some smaller ringbolts too. The ones I used are the smallest, they are tiny, on the market but look far to big in the photo.

 

Can I ask you what diameter tube you used for the chimney? I have 3.76mm and 4.8mm tube - the 3.76mm seems right to me but is proportionally smaller than the FFM suggests - by a fraction that is...

 

Thanks for dropping by,

cheers

Alistair

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The reason I mentioned the fit Alistair is because I'm sure I measured mine correctly but when I actually fitted the bitt knees the tray was too wide and I had to pare it down. :huh:

 

The brass tubing I used for the chimney cowl has an external diameter of just under 5.5mm. I looked at the 1:48 scale drawing on page 171 Vol11 which appears to show an 8mm diameter - equivalent to 6mm at 1:64. I thought the 5.5mm was close enough. I didn't make the cowl as a separate item, the tubing was made long enough to fit in the stove top and protrude above the deck by 20mm which looked right to my eye.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

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Thanks B.E

Using card for my next go at the tray will be easy to trim if it's too wide. I measured this width so many times but forgot about the height under the beam :huh: I'll go for a 4.8mm round chimney I think. I came to the same conclusions as you from VII of the FFM about the diameter but when I tried it, it looked far too big. The connection into the top  of the stove is invisible so, although I will align the parts, I'm not going to be too fussy about how it fits below the deck. A little bit of cheating where the eye can't see.

 

Anyway many other parts to play with before I get those upper decks on.The goals keep shifting and the challenges keep appealing. Next the pumps and the capstan. Several cannons to rig as well. All fun.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

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Alistair, for smaller ring bolts, see if you can find some costume jewelry of fine necklace chain, the costume stuff is usually made from tiny split rings.

 

Ken

 

PS That stove looks ready cook up some breakfast, I like my eggs over medium ;)

Edited by BareHook

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That is indeed a nice stove.  If it doesn't fit, maybe you should just make another one, and keep this one out where you can admire your work.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

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Thanks for your thoughts.

Another minor update on bits and pieces and a question:

I realised that the orientation of my stove was wrong. The boiler should face forward and the fire grate aft. I was fooled by the picture on page 51 VII of the FFM (and also by B.E's log ;)) which shows the boiler aft and the grate forward. However the text on the stove in the FFM (page 81 onwards) clearly shows the correct orientation. So...I partially dismantled my stove and built the grate and drip tray. Probably tripled my time working on this piece.

 

I made the chain pump covers and beefed them up with a layer of extra planking and added detail - plugs and rhodings.

 

I made the upper and lower capstans. Added chocks and reinforcing rings but otherwise per the kit. I found these pieces really difficult and although I wanted to leave them natural my chocking wasn't up to that so I painted the lower parts. The reinforcing bands look too thick in the photo but in reality they look OK.

 

The question: There is piece of embossed brass in the kit which does not appear in the instructions. I think it is meant to be wrapped around the taffarel but it  is very thick and this seems a near impossibility. Have any of you Fly/Pegasus builders attempted this?

 

Photos follow.

 

Merry Christmas

Alistair

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Edited by aliluke

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Thing is Alistair that with my stove the boiler had to face aft in order for the vent and cowl to exit at the correct place on the Fore deck, and I was given a 'get out of jail' free card by the statement on page 82 of Vol11. ;)

 

Nice work on the mast partners by the way and the deck looks excellent. 

 

Can't help with the decorative strip, you'll need a Fly builder for that one.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

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Hi Alistair,

 

The stove, pump covers, deck and capstans (I too found chocks amazingly difficult to make!) are all looking top notch!

 

Merry Christmas,

Robert

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Thanks Robert - my capstan is a very poor cousin to yours which is extraordinary in its detail. I'd give mine 3 out of 10 and yours 10! But, heck, they work for me and I'm my only worst judge.

 

Have a good Christmas - looking forward to seeing your cannons as these are next on my need to build list.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Hi Alistair, I don't know if you've looked that far ahead yet, but the kit simplifications affect the orientation of a Galley stove if fitted.

 

On the kit the Fore Jeer bitt pins (uprights)  travel thro’ the Foc’sle deck to seat in the upper deck,abaft the Foremast and get in the way of where the stove boiler would sit.  In reality they should be pinned to the Fo’csle deck beams, which frees up a very crowded area on the Upper deck and gives more space to work the stove.

 

The other consideration is the relationship with the Focsle deck beams and the steam gratings.

 

I covered the modifications I made to the deck beams, bitts, etc  to accommodate the stove in my log.

 

Have a good Christmas,

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

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Alistair,

 

Great job on the stove.  Nice add-on detail.

 

That brass strip, if I recall is used for the trim under the cathead and bent forward .  I believe it is shown in the prints or instructions somewhere (too lazy to look up, but will look it up if you ask nicely  lol ).  I didn't like it, so wasn't used on my build. I just scratch built a piece.

 

Take care and enjoy the holiday season,

Len

Edited by freewheelinguy

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Hey, thanks Mike. I'm just working my way through Chuck's six pounder carriages - 14 of them and a damn fine little kit. I figured there are about 55 bits for the whole gun rig, including ropes, x 14 that is a scary beast...Getting there though and I hope to post some results before we head off on our summer holidays in Awaroa Inlet on Monday.

 

I only just spotted your Victory - me, Lieutenant? you, Midshipman? - I think not. The other way round is more fitting. Brilliant work.

 

I look forward to your endeavours on Endeavour - it is an exemplary build.

 

Have a great year!

 

Cheers

Alistair

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I thought I'd join the flurry of Pegasus/Fly posts that are showing up. I'm progressing through cannon production while awaiting some more boxwood stock for the external works. The carriages are Syren Models. A very nice kit. For the bed bolt I used piano wire which is incredibly hard but blackens very well. The one bolt head that is in is a miniature from Scale Hardware and has a 0.7mm domed head. They are tricky to install as they tend to ping off the tweezers into the ether never to be seen again...

 

I also am making the quoins from boxwood and using the tip of a toothpick for the handles which, being already conical, only need a light sand to round off and look the part. These pieces are very small.

 

The barrels are chemically blackened with great success this time - compared to my previous failures. My process is cleaning with lacquer thinner, soaking in spirit of salts (15 minutes) and then blackening solution (15 minutes) with water rinsing between each step. The blackening is easy to buff with tissue paper and does not come off.

 

The barrels are from RB Models and vastly inferior in detail to those from Syren but I prefer the slightly bigger size. Blue Ensign used them on his Pegasus but since then they have, for some unknown reason, changed the lathe set out and instead of having ribbed bands they have simple steps. These are not very visible so I made the decision on the basis of scale rather than correct detail. I will add the cyphers to the barrel later as I found that they fell off during blackening. The other irritant with these barrels is that the trunnions are not perpendicular to barrel as the hole for them has been drilled at a slight angle. They have to be fractionally bent to square them up and the carriage needs slight modifications to ensure they align properly. Given that Syren Models are very accurate the barrel is slightly over scaled for the carriage but the fit is OK and it makes quite a compact unit overall. Not a lot to recommend there but scale won the day. Certainly they make the kit supplied barrels and carriages look wrong in so many ways and the upgrade was well worth it IMO. My Syren barrels will be saved for another model and I'll certainly be getting the Syren carriages for that too.

 

For eyebolts I'm going to use Model Shipways (0.7 mm internal eye diameter) which are much smaller than the Amati kit ones and have a better fit for the scale. I haven't decided on rope sizes yet but will experiment when I get there. Thinking 0.6mm breeching and 0.25mm tackles but not sure yet.

 

I'm going to fully rig the cannons with all tackles and rope coils on the deck.

 

Next post will be the completed piece but that is a while away as our summer holiday starts soon. Pictures follow.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Hi, neat carriages you have there. Looking forward to the full rigging, seems like a gruelling job at this scale, especially in summer time. Anyway, enjoy it! Here in CZ it gets dark after 4 pm, no sun, no snow, no fun.

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What did you use to fix the ciphers Alistair; I used thick ca, very sparingly, and none of them let go during the blackening process. What I did find was that after blackening there were slight residues of ca around the ciphers which needed re cleaning and a further blackening.

 

I think I used a combination of a scalpel blade, fine wire wool, and Acetone to clean them up.

 

I think the guns will look just fine once they are fitted and rigged. :)

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

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Hi B.E, thanks for dropping in.

I used the same as you and had the same issue with residue CA stopping the blackening. I was a bit inaccurate in my description, it was cleaning up that residue that pinged off the cypher - it just had so little adhesion so I've figured a post blackening fix is easier (I'm bound to this now in any case). Yep I'm feeling good about the cannons - I realise I'm slightly obsessed by this detailed part and hopefully the results will justify that. When I get to the masts and rigging I'll probably be in as much fun trouble as you ;).

 

Thanks Vitus - actually our summer so far is crap. Winds got up to 140 kph yesterday with driving rain. Thankfully, being well used to extreme wind, trees here don't tend to fall down...if they did our house would have been in serious danger as we are surrounded by massive trees. We have had two fine days in the last 2 weeks. But the weather forecast for our holidays is looking much better :D.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Alistair, those barrels looks fantastic, seems you've managed to master the chemical blackening.  Which solution did you use?  This still seems an art to me and couldn't quite get the results I hope for but there seem to be so many variables.  Your carriages look very nice as well, you've got some nice detail on them and looks like a great 'upgrade'.

Edited by Beef Wellington

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Hi Jason

I use Birchwood Casey Brass Black diluted 50/50 with water. The trick is in the cleaning and acid etching process. I also found that if some of the black came off while buffing I would just put he barrel back into the blackening solution for another soak. Some I soaked three times. I never let my fingers touch the barrel during the process.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Hi Alistair,

 

The guns and carriages look great.  If you get a chance in a future photo, maybe you could include an ordinary object for scale perspective, because those carriages are tiny!  Makes me quite relieved that I went with Chuck's larger guns.

 

Cheers,

Robert

 

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Hi Robert

Here is a picture with a pencil. They aren't too small, much bigger than my AVS cannons. In the picture you can clearly see the steps instead of bands on the barrel :angry: (much less apparent in real life). This is just loose laid and also needs cap squares and the cypher. The trucks are just loose too and I need to think whether I'll add pins through the axles. All the other bits are on though. I tried some other miniature rivets with a 0.4mm head but I couldn't even pick them up with tweezers so will stick with the size you see.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Alistair,

I created some bolts by using brass square stock rods and grinding them round below the square bolts head with a dremel. Just be careful, that brass gets HOT, I burned some fingertips before I realized it was getting too hot. This might work for the truck caps?

 

Ken

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Very nice cannons indeed. Pins in axles would surely make the carriages look even better and more "alive", if the wooden axles allow it. I'd recommend using the tiniest little drill you have available first and then make the hole bigger, if needed. 

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Hi

Vitus I will have a go at those pins. After a long break I'm currently wrestling with the main wales and patterning them in accord with the FFM. They certainly are an exacting element to add. If I succeed I will update soon.

 

A very minor update...I have been searching for a part to make the scupper linings. Flyer found such a thing as shown in his log but without knowing what they are called, they are hard to track down. I finally found them today. They are called "ferrule crimps" and can be bought at specialist electronics shops. They consist of a metal tube about 1.5mm in diameter (more or less exactly the right scale according to the FFM) with a plastic cup at one end. The cup is held in place by a flange at the end of the tube so when the plastic is cut off (easily done) you have the perfect flanged, scupper lining - which I will paint grey before installing. At $3.00 for 20 - a very cheap solution! Here is a picture.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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