Jump to content

Fair American by figuerres - Model Shipways - 1:48 Kit


Recommended Posts

for a change of pace from the rigging on the bluenose I started the prep work on a bit of kit bashing.

I am making the great cabin an actual cabin in the ship.   so here is where I started to use the dremel tool to cut out some of the wood and then the dremel  sander with 60 grid to get close to the final shape, for now I just got the center line clear.

 

 

post-22-0-20058200-1361144120_thumb.jpg

post-22-0-22890500-1361144123_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Figuerres - did you have any problems with the length of the laser-cut keel length? I bought this kit and while planning the build, I found the laser cut centre-keel was 4mm shorter than that showed on the plans. The slots for the bulkheads also didn't correspond with the plans.

 

Initially, I thought it was caused by the plans not being copied correctly - I.e. the x dimension was not correct in proportion to the Y dimension of the plans.

 

I mailed the manufacturer and included photos of the discrepancy asking them if they could send me new plans which were copied in the correct ratio. Within one day Model Shipyards had replied saying that the plans were correct but that there was a problem with the dimensions of the keel and that they would be sending me a new one.

 

Awaiting their package.

 

I was just wondering if this was a one-off error or whether it was more prevalent in a batch of kits?

 

I will be following your log closely, as I am very much a newbie to this!

Edited by Farawayman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Figuerres - did you have any problems with the length of the laser-cut keel length? I bought this kit and while planning the build, I found the laser cut centre-keel was 4mm shorter than that showed on the plans. The slots for the bulkheads also didn't correspond with the plans.

 

Initially, I thought it was caused by the plans not being copied correctly - I.e. the x dimension was not correct in proportion to the Y dimension of the plans.

 

I mailed the manufacturer and included photos of the discrepancy asking them if they could send me new plans which were copied in the correct ratio. Within one day Model Shipyards had replied saying that the plans were correct but that there was a problem with the dimensions of the keel and that they would be sending me a new one.

 

Awaiting their package.

 

I was just wondering if this was a one-off error or whether it was more prevalent in a batch of kits?

 

I will be following your log closely, as I am very much a newbie to this!

 

the keel length is a "known issue" with the kit.   in my kit the gap is about 1/4 of an inch and I have used a scrap of wood from the same billet to make up the gap.

MS is really good about replacing parts when you ask but I think they could also have better quality control before they send stuff out.

in my bluenose kit I had a Britannia cast part that I had to have them replace.

 

the rest of the hull parts in my kit have been very good fits, one bulkhead was perhaps 1/16th of an inch off and I did a spot of rough sanding to fix that.

post-22-0-80135700-1361655698_thumb.jpg

post-22-0-01773900-1361655700_thumb.jpg

post-22-0-67831800-1361655702_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

by the way - start a build log so we can both see what we are doing and others can also follow us....

 

I should be finished with the bearding line / rabbit for the planks and starting to assemble the hull and shape the fore and aft blocks over the weekend. 

Edited by figuerres
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

No photos right now but hull planking is happening ... should be done soon.

this is my 3rd hull and I still do not get my planks to fit as good as I would like so this will be a hull with wood filler and painted... some day I will get it to the point where I can do a nice looking bare wood hull ...  Getting  better at it but still a ways to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hull is almost completely planked now, ordered electronics and waiting for them so that I can fit in the wiring for the cabin and stern lamp lights before I close in the hull.

 

found two different model rr lamps that may work for the stern lamp, have to get them and see which is the right size.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Build looks great, and a nice ship design also. Looking forward to more updates.

 

 

/Matti

 

thanks!

 

I have found that the plans seem to have a small error in the dimensions and I also mis-read part of the instructions and that has made me re-work the upper hull from the main whale to the top of the hull.

 

soon I will have the gun ports cut and then it will be all good and I can seal and paint and the re-worked parts will be hidden :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Figuerres, perhaps you can help with a couple of questions regarding coamings and grating on Fair American. I just finished planking the hull, my first pob ship. (I recently completed Phantom, my first ship ever and had so much enjoyment that I've become an enthusiast.) I've run into a problem with the plans/part list with respect to the hatch coamings. I want to build and install the coamings and grating before laying the deck pad, but I can't figure out what the parts list means by the 3/32 x 3/32 "upper" hatch coaming and the 5/32 x 5/32 "lower" hatch coaming. Also there is an unnamed part on the parts list below the lower hatch coaming that is 3/16 x 3/16. I can't tell if that is a part of the coaming construction. In short, how do I construct the coamings for the fore and aft hatches?Also, is the plan accurate w/r/t the number of horizontal and vertical pieces in the grating? I'd be truly appreciative of the help. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Figuerres, perhaps you can help with a couple of questions regarding coamings and grating on Fair American. I just finished planking the hull, my first pob ship. (I recently completed Phantom, my first ship ever and had so much enjoyment that I've become an enthusiast.) I've run into a problem with the plans/part list with respect to the hatch coamings. I want to build and install the coamings and grating before laying the deck pad, but I can't figure out what the parts list means by the 3/32 x 3/32 "upper" hatch coaming and the 5/32 x 5/32 "lower" hatch coaming. Also there is an unnamed part on the parts list below the lower hatch coaming that is 3/16 x 3/16. I can't tell if that is a part of the coaming construction. In short, how do I construct the coamings for the fore and aft hatches?Also, is the plan accurate w/r/t the number of horizontal and vertical pieces in the grating? I'd be truly appreciative of the help. Thanks.

 

in my case I have not yet built this part, I have been working on some details of the gun ports and the cannons and the quarter badges (the fancy windows on the aft port and starboard that look into the great cabin.

 

but I think I know what you are trying to figure out and I will see if I can help, I may build my set and then I can give comments.

for now I can say that the 3/16 x/ 3/16 x 24 is not part of the hatches.

also look at the plans the sheet is not numbered but it has several views of the hull with a lot of details, it shows the hatches and the "coamings"

from what I see you have a few ways you can build them depending on how detailed you want them and if you want to be able to lift them out or glue them in place.

 

have you ever made a picture frame or a door frame ?

this is very much like them.

 

more later when I have some time ....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks much. I've never built frames so I've got no relevant experience. I rechecked the plans. The coamings look like one piece and the note on the plans says "cut ledge to suit grating." So, I assume that I should use the 5/32 piece for the outer frame and the 3/32 piece for the inner frame and then sand down the ledge so that the top of the grating is even with the top of the 5/32 piece. The major flaw in this plan is that once I lay the deck pad, which is 3/32 high, the hatch will lay only 1/16" above the deck. That seems too low. Ill be patent and wait until you have time. Appreciate the help!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been looking at the plans and at my model and deciding on how I will make the hatch's.

in my build I put in support for the deck and the hatch before I ran the deck planking but I did not try to build in the hatch frames.

so what I am doing is just making the "upper coamings"  so that they sit on the top of the deck , this will look right when the ship is finished but does not exactly follow the plans.

 

now here is a bit of basic carpentry that is true for a house or a ship or a model of a house or a ship.

 

any door or window  needs a framework that holds it in place, the names for the boards will change slightly between a door / window or ship but the parts are really the same.

 

for the hatches think of a window, look at an old wooden window frame if there are any around you can see.

 

you need to make a rectangle shaped box from 4 or more sticks of wood,   for example if you look at most door frames when you open the door and look at the way the frame is made there are different sticks that make up the outer surround that makes it look nice - the trim / mill work / fancy part.

there is the inside frame boards and there is generally a smaller stick near the middle that the door shuts against to make a seal to keep out the wind and cold drafts of air.

so the frame is built of different sticks arranged to make it work and to make it look good.

 

for our hatch there are two long sides and two short sides.  to just attach the hatch on the top of the deck boards all I have to do is cut the four sticks to the right length from wood that will have the right finished size to look right.

I will glue them to the hatches and then to the deck.

 

 

 

to help me find the right sizes I made copies of the parts of the plan that show the hatches from above and from the side and cut out the hatches and the openings from the copied paper to give me templates to work with and to help check that the actual model and the copied plans match up as sometimes they do not and you need to make some small adjustments.

 

 

later today I should have some pictures and see if I can explain any more of the details.

 

 

by the way keep in mind that this is a model that has been re-done many times, the large plan sheets are copied from a model of a model.

and they were then updated later by another person....

so the plans and the wood are just a guide to get us close to a good model, after that you can adjust / improvise and make this your idea of what it should look like.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Figuerres, your instructions and photos are very helpful. The analogy to windows and doors works well for me. I very much appreciate the time and effort you took! Just ending a trip to Portugal. When I return, I'll build the hatches and post photos. Thanks, again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Figuerres, your instructions and photos are very helpful. The analogy to windows and doors works well for me. I very much appreciate the time and effort you took! Just ending a trip to Portugal. When I return, I'll build the hatches and post photos. Thanks, again.

 

Heh, no problem I hade to make my set soon anyway, I am working on a set of cannons and carriages I got from chuck's new company and getting the gun ports and the cannons  setup so that I am sure of the final layout to finish the gun ports and railing.

 

 

http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/turned-brass-cannon.php#!/~/product/category=5764759&id=24621019

 

http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/laser-cut-ship-model-fittings.php#!/~/product/category=5764789&id=24646185

 

this set of parts is slightly smaller than what the model kit came with but I think they will be a better match with the model and the size

also the wood parts in this set are more detailed and more like the actual carriages , the model kit parts are much simplified and missing some details.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

Figuerres,

 

I hope that all is well. I was wondering if you could post more info and maybe picture regarding your lighting? I am interested in the idea of making a 'real' cabin as you are doing and I have really been kicking around the idea of lighting the kit, but have no experience with lighting models.

 

What and where is the power supply?

What kind of components did you order for lights, wiring, switches etc.?

Is there some book or article I should be reading to get a more knowledge on the subject?

 

Thank you for sharing your build with us. 

 

Nathan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...