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Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF rigged as schooner


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Buy some nylon screws, the epoxy may not glue to them. Otherwise, put in a screw from the top, epoxy the nuts and back the screws out as the epoxy starts to set. Run a tap down from the top once it is set. You may have to run a tap size drill down from the top, to clear out the keel, then a clearance drill, carefully, up from the bottom, following the hole from the tap drill.

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You are making great progress.

 

It's interesting seeing how your work attacks problems current to all of us finding a variety of approaches to creating similar models. Your approach seems both accurate and eminently reasonable.

 

I'm continuing to follow with keen interest.

 

Jim

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I followed Druxey's advise re. the retaining bolts / nuts.  Worked this time.  I lightly oiled the bolts, inserted them in the holes, held in the slots and very lightly applied some epoxy.  The bolts turn freely.

1481875055_ECB2_Retainingnuts.thumb.jpg.af313b4b704e875455c3432f686db15c.jpg

There is a big lens distortion in the photo.  The bolts are parallel to each other and at the angle created by the building framework.

Maury

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Posted (edited)

While waiting for glue to dry...

The transom has a half-round oval(ish) molding that surrounds the name and home port.  I cut out the pattern, cut and sanded the outside to the line. This photo is after the center piece was cut out.

ECB2_Decomold1.jpg.2d1927da882f29a41d74071253540125.jpg

Since it's less than 1/16" thin, I then glued it to a sacrificial carrier piece and drilled out the center (a bunch of holes near the inner line.  A bunch of sanding and scraping

later it looks as it should.  Rather than glue it in place on the transom, I'm going to paint it (gold) while it's still on the carrier and remove it and glue it on the transom later.

ECB2_Decomold2.jpg.d408687ba22d46d6baef5d5e8d450579.jpg

Maury

Edited by Maury S
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Great idea of the sacrificial wood backup. What kind of glue did you use? That Artesania Micro Scraper is a great looking tool, all this time I've been filing shapes onto hacksaw blades. Cannot tell you how many skinned knuckles that has caused.

 

Looking really good Maury, looking real good

 

Stay Well and Stay Safe

Will :pirate41:

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Glue;  temporary vs permanent:  Throughout this build I have assumed (maybe wrongly) that inexpensive "school glue" is easier to dissolve than PVA.  For all of the "temporary" gluing of braces between frames, as well as the oval molding described above, etc. I've used the white school glue.  I use the same (diluted 50% with water) for gluing the frame patterns to the boards.  First Mate asked if I'd tested that...and the answer is not yet...but I should do so.  I had to re-do one of the frames and the "school glue" did seem to come undone quicker.

Maury

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Frames continued:  Frames 1 - 18 are installed.  #s 17 & 18 are the first of the after-most frames that lodge on the deadwood rather than on top of the keel.  There are notches on both the deadwood and the frame set that need to mesh and align with the rabbet.  Having floors on the frames  and the 1" wider keel / stem & stern complicates the installation.

2139224871_ECB2_Frames1-18.thumb.jpg.556bec567405478ed5ddb13b360c589b.jpg

I'm also going to have to put temporary spacers between the first four frames, otherwise fairing the sheer and sides of the frames will be impossible.

Maury

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I think you are right about the spaces Maury. It doesn't look as if the glue joints at the keel will withstand the sanding vibrations. Do you have the drawings that are included in the Model Shipways model? Just thinking it might be worth taking off the frames and fairing per the drawings if you have them. Just a thought. The framing is really nice you're coming along very quickly. I'm waiting to see how you build the transom. (solid or built up)

 

Congratulations it looking very nice.

Stay Well and Stay Safe

Will :pirate41:

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Will,

Yes, I took the Model Shipways plan set and reduced the scale to 1:48.  Everything...height, width, thicknesses, etc. is right off the plans.  You can't do a POF model without a good plan set.  Even with a good set, adjustments still need to be made from time to time.  Also, a warning from an engineer...if there are numbers (lengths, widths, thicknesses, etc.) indicated on the plans, make sure you use the numbers, not a measurement taken from lines.

Maury

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However, do double check the numbers against the drawings, for gross errors, to be sure. On my Santa Fe Business car some of the dimensions given were off by a foot or more, over what the drawings showed, and when matched against the photos.

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  • 2 weeks later...

As I proceeded aft with the framing, I noticed the bottom of the horn timbers did not line up with the rabbet. 

The darker line at the top of the deadwood is the rabbet.ECB2_HornTImbers.thumb.jpg.c2124268ebb5f158103c2bca6bb8990e.jpgThe horn timber unit needed to be removed and replaced.  Soaking with ISO every 15 minutes and wrapping with Saran Wrap to keep the alcohol from completely evaporating managed to loosen the section after about an hour.  After replacing the timbers, I extended the rabbet across the stern post.

Maury

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Rough Fairing:  Now that all the frames are in, it's time to start fairing.  The skeleton is pretty solid as is and I'm not concerned with 80 grit paper breaking and of the frames.  The spacers do a good job of holding everything together.

ECB2_Fairing1.jpg.bbd714b1ff00695fd211b907a8e01b55.jpg

I did some of the sheer fairing while the boat was held on the building board.  I check elevations as I go along.

ECB2_Fairing3.jpg.7bc9949574e11ba1e8e9319707ad3abf.jpg

Once well faired, temporary battens will be run somewhere near the top of the frames and another near the turn of the bilge.  They will hold the transom in place (side to side) and provide rigidity so the spacers and cross battens can be removed.  That will be a challenge...dissolving the glue on the spacers without loosening the battens.  Maybe some of those "Special planking repair" clamps that Druxey used on the longboat.

Maury

ECB2_Fairing2.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Fairing continues: I had to remove a couple of the frame pairs and re-install so the bottoms lined up with the rabbet.  Lots of sanding with 80 grit to bring everything fair.

ECB2Fairing7.jpg.52056788ce36cd00eb8a8b679b09e5d6.jpg

 

 

ECB2_fairing4.jpg.4c792672c28518cc7aec2f9bf62a6448.jpg

 

ECB2_Fairing5.jpg.46471c577f7ef25168dc7d4e10cf7d25.jpg

 

ECB2_Fairing6.jpg.4209047a71e7981ced2cb7233ab33416.jpg

With the re-set of the errant frames, I have to re-fair the sheer.  The last frame tops are way too high.

Next will be a couple of temporary battens to attach the transom and then remove the spacers and cross-braces.

Maury

 

Edited by Maury S
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The temporary battens are being installed.  Held in place with wire twists 'til the school glue dries.

ECB2_TempBattens1.thumb.jpg.2a655d6e82442c63b17af0a22f0af252.jpg

The run of the batten is fair but it's not critical as it's temporary until the clamp on the inside is installed.  The plan is to invert the boat and wet the spacers (one or two at a time) with iso-soaked cotton swabs until they come undone.  Hopefully, gravity's impact on the liquid will prevent the battens from getting wet and popping off.

Maury

 

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