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44 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

 

 Trond, it appears they have to be sanded to shape. It's either sand to shape or make your own pieces. 

I've looked forth and back, but as far as I see I will need to make new improved pieces. Comparing the setup I have in my kit compared to other and the book, than my kit version is way off.

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On 5/2/2021 at 4:52 PM, Trond said:

I've looked forth and back, but as far as I see I will need to make new improved pieces. Comparing the setup I have in my kit compared to other and the book, than my kit version is way off.

There does seem to be an awful lot of carving and pieces to shape on the Billings version of the Bounty. Great if you like a challenge and I suppose in the end this is what we are all after. On the Amati version of the Bounty ,most of these pieces you are making are of a metal alloy or probably aluminium as they are very light,easy to cut and bend so very easy to work with. Unfortunately the pieces aft did not fit on my Bounty and I therefore made them out of wood myself, the same as you. However the pieces at the forward end leading up to the cut water and the figure head were quite easy to work with and bend into the required shape. I am just wondering if these pieces can be purchaced from Amati or can you use some square section of aluminium which might make life easier for you.  Forget what I have said if you are happy with your progress and  the way you are and by the way you look to be doing excellent and a much better job than myself. I hope this helps and keep up the good work .Best regards Dave

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Thanks Dave for kind words. Trying to as best as I can while learning this hobby. One thing is for sure is it is very relaxing, but time consuming. I'll go to my workshop after a long workday and dinner and just forget time and place, filing on some small pieces. 🙂

 

I have thought of buying extra stuff from web sites, but the delivery time and my kit is 1:50 which is not very commen it seems. So far I have limited to nice blocks and deadeye from Syren. 

 

Dave, I looked at your log for how you marked the deck plank on the side for best result, but could see what you ended up with (most likely you described it, but I didn't get it). What did you do, permeant marker or pencil? I've tried both, but are far of from your great result. Any tips would be much appreciated. 

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53 minutes ago, Trond said:

Thanks Dave for kind words. Trying to as best as I can while learning this hobby. One thing is for sure is it is very relaxing, but time consuming. I'll go to my workshop after a long workday and dinner and just forget time and place, filing on some small pieces. 🙂

 

I have thought of buying extra stuff from web sites, but the delivery time and my kit is 1:50 which is not very commen it seems. So far I have limited to nice blocks and deadeye from Syren. 

 

Dave, I looked at your log for how you marked the deck plank on the side for best result, but could see what you ended up with (most likely you described it, but I didn't get it). What did you do, permeant marker or pencil? I've tried both, but are far of from your great result. Any tips would be much appreciated. 

Regards the lines on the deck planks. I got the idea of a Bounty builder off this forum. He actually did one plank at a time but I managed to do 3 or 4 clamped together with the edges showing together. Running the side of the permanent marker along the edge. I did a test to make sure it doesn't run into any varnish or sand and sealer. It takes a bit to get the hang but it's much easier than caulking and quite a good effect. Just do one edge and one end only. Hope this helps. Best regards Dave. Keep up the good work.

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3 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

Regards the lines on the deck planks. I got the idea of a Bounty builder off this forum. He actually did one plank at a time but I managed to do 3 or 4 clamped together with the edges showing together. Running the side of the permanent marker along the edge. I did a test to make sure it doesn't run into any varnish or sand and sealer. It takes a bit to get the hang but it's much easier than caulking and quite a good effect. Just do one edge and one end only. Hope this helps. Best regards Dave. Keep up the good work.

Is there a problem of doing more than one edge or just extra work?

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On 5/4/2021 at 5:35 PM, Trond said:

Is there a problem of doing more than one edge or just extra work?

Hi Trond, it depends on how prominent you want the dark line between the planks to simulate caulking.  If you edge both planks butting up to each other you will get a more noticeable line.  Maybe experiment on a few short sections with combinations of no edges marked / one edge / two edges.  Also worth doing on scrap bits in case you use a marker that "bleeds" into the wood a little and causes a "fuzzy" look to the plank edges.  I know I came across that effect on some of my planking even though the wood strip all came from the same batch in the kit!

 

Good luck, let us know what you decide on... 👍

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, Trond said:

Thank AJohnson,

I will test out different solution and I'll come back with pictures.

It might be worth doing a test piece and try what ever you are using afterwards ie varnish ,sand & sealer. I don,t expect to be a problem but you never know. I found one edge was just about right, but made sure it was a evenly covered . Here is a link to all you need to know

 https://www.modelerscentral.com/blog/how-to-do-deck-planking-on-wooden-model-ships/

For the record I cut the strips to size first rather than as in the photos. There is also a deck planner link somewhere out there which I thought explains it all nicely.Good luck 

 

 

Edited by DaveBaxt
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I've started cutting the deck plank while the tests (test1:black marker on one side, test2:black on both sides) are drying up after been some varnish on them.

After going through different tips & tricks it was mention that it was not uncommon to have plank length of approx. 6m. So that convert to approx. 120mm in scale 1:50. So I'm cutting all my planks to 120mm.

 

20210507_214429.thumb.jpg.5a32d3469e9b5f54ce1c06a6c705e79d.jpg

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This is a lot of work. I started with using a marker, but then I went over to pencil. It is much faster and forgiving. So I'm mixing between marker and pencil plank and it looks not to bad. I need to do some scraping of the plank to get it even. It suppose to be highest in the middle and then out to the side, but not here. Should have compensated in the beginning, but when one is total green in shipbuilding and building an advance ship kit....

20210509_222658_b.thumb.jpg.675ae63ec9200ed0e225fca2ab733841.jpg

It is difficult to see on the picture, but I marked the left side with a blue line to show where I'm at.

So I'm getting close.

 

The two lose pieces are example on varnish; one with clear mat (right) and the other one with some redish color in it.

I also mad some pencil "hole" to see how it would look and it I should use it. 

20210509_222815.thumb.jpg.9ff7a573dd0fc03a4c7415b4e4f7f8ee.jpg

 

 

 

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 Trond, I don't care for pencil "holes" because they look exactly like that, pencil holes. IMHO, pencil holes do a very poor job of imitating plugs.  IMHO, I think you'd be better served just scraping and lightly sanding the deck and putting down whatever finish you like. 

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Trond,

I agree with Keith... besides, in the scale we are working in, the tree nails would be barely visible, if at all. Most from that time period would be covered with a plug of wood either the same as the deck or very similar.

On my build, I did do the lower decks... then after some research discovered what I stated above and I don't plan to put them on the main deck.

The build is looking good! Keep up the good work!

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Posted (edited)

 Trond, this is a Hatton and Hart photograph of the USS Tennessee ca 1880 showing close up deck detail. There is no visible evidence of nail, screw, or even plugs. Also notice the two patches behind Captain Stanton, there is also no evidence of nail, screw, or plugs.

1EJTo7a.jpg.dc406eecdf05836f26c236c5d01f57ea.jpg 

Edited by Keith Black
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3 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 Trond, this is a Hatton and Hart photograph of the USS Tennessee ca 1880 showing close up deck detail. There is no visible evidence of nail, screw, or even plugs. Also notice the two patches behind Captain Stanton, there is also no evidence of nail, screw, or plugs.

1EJTo7a.jpg.dc406eecdf05836f26c236c5d01f57ea.jpg 

Nice picture Keith and yes there is no visible nails.

I'm glad I listen to you guys.

Thanks

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Finally finished the deck planking, scraped and lightly sanded. The 4 plank configuration with 120mm long planks turned out ok. It is great to have other here on the forum to use as references. Thanks all 🙂

 

20210513_111140.thumb.jpg.1c0b60bc7386b6735397e1d6a766df2a.jpg

 

So now is the time to decide what to do with it? varnish, deck stain...

 

I've glued up some mini deck for doing some testing. Couldn't it before since I wasn't sure I had enough planking.

20210513_111147.thumb.jpg.d96d658391e7d71b9e5b4febcd111778.jpg

 

The one to the right has mat varnish and the other ones are untreated yet. Since it is holiday today and all shop are close I need to wait until tomorrow.

 

Any suggestions on who the deck should look like with regards to color? 

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 Trond, the deck looks great. Color is a personal choice but I like the natural finish you have on the right. Because of the tarred standing rigging and the tar being transferred to the decks on the soles of the sailors shoes, ship captains would periodically have the decks "holy stoned" with seawater. That plus the bleaching of the sun would make one think that decks were a worn natural color. 

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Have done some more test.

20210513_170031.thumb.jpg.d39c3c286355532cd6c3a62f6f671306.jpg

From left to right: nothing, varnish with some red, dark deck stain thinned out with methylated spirit (not good at all), mat varnish.

The second one has a more "glow/worming" color comapred to the mat varnish.

I'm very unsure what to pick.

 

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As Keith mentioned above, the decks were regularly holy-stoned using seawater, especially on military vessels. Since Bligh had a military background, one can assume this was a regular duty of the crew.

All that said, I think the one on the right is good but if you can make it a little grayer, even better.

I attempted to do that (check out my build log). Unfortunately, the tests to practice changed even though my procedures did not!

The life of a modeler!

Whatever you decide will be great!

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I found a varnish for when painting soldiers that is water based and I whent with that. It gave the look I wanted.

20210513_111140.thumb.jpg.2fb312601ca72c015070113cf55cab96.jpg

3 layers of varnish.

 

Know I'm moving onto the aft "railing" and here there are some differences between drawings and parts.

20210515_173545.thumb.jpg.d485ac3c79ed00caf631b7254230fb70.jpg

 

Parts larger that other parts.

20210515_173431.thumb.jpg.d86c4b5475132d2ea77dcb50715a6d8a.jpg

Again I'm turning back to Armed Transporter Bounty for facts.

I did some comparisent to the canons so see how they fit in here.

 

And it turns out they are to high on the deck.

20210515_173426.thumb.jpg.3ae0c0e713c4cbee6d0e4acb1b771de2.jpg

Did some converting and drew up the canon base so see and they should be smaller.

20210515_220533.thumb.jpg.c1a36dde485e523a89eb2735a71dd45c.jpg

 

So I need to do some adjustment to the aft railing, find out what material I should use for the railing and than finish of the railings.

Canons I will do later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been going forth and back on the aft railing.

 

 

20210524_173119.thumb.jpg.9910267f87366007744a0f285e2b86f2.jpgStarted marking up the suport for the railing and though there where something wrong with the supplied railing. When I compered it with the book I can easaly see the differnce.

 

So I decided to mark all up as in the book and make new aft railing.

20210524_190926.thumb.jpg.4f6f11779235dbed123ed6f2dd7d3677.jpg

So the  arrows show where the support will stand and then I will need to make planks for the aft railing.

The larger patches indicate where the canons will be.

 

I had to improvise where the "last" support will be since the long tape show where the outside stares will be and that shall be parallell to the mast.

The problem is that the kit is not in scale with regards to total length, so I have to improvise a little and reduce the distance between the two last railing staind to make it look acceptable.

 

Does anybody else here on the forum have the problem that the total length of the ship is not correct, in accordance to Armed Transporter Bounty?

 

 

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3 hours ago, Trond said:

Does anybody else here on the forum have the problem that the total length of the ship is not correct, in accordance to Armed Transporter Bounty?

Interesting question. I have not questioned the scale of my kit. Just assumed it would be accurate (more or less). Now you've got me wondering too!

I'll do some checking and let you know.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/24/2021 at 6:44 PM, LyleK1 said:

Interesting question. I have not questioned the scale of my kit. Just assumed it would be accurate (more or less). Now you've got me wondering too!

I'll do some checking and let you know.

Well, I did some measuring and indeed the scale is off a bit but really it's not too bad.

Not much you can do about a kit build but to go with it!

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