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HMS Fly by Richard Feliciano - 1:48 Scale - POF


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Being dissatisfied with the bow framing of frames 2 thru 12, these frames were completely reconstructed using my forecastle template previously submitted in the forum. The results were satisfactory as these photos show. I also prefabricated timber heads which procedure will be posted in a day or two.

 

This exercise set me back almost 2 months. I would like to mention 3 of the frames needed build out at various locations. I laminated 1.5" (s) strips to the frames at these low locations. Results were fine.

20210202_170445 (3).jpg

20210202_170813.jpg

20210202_170707.jpg

20210202_170541.jpg

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Richard, since your revising and really starting over, it would probably be best to just merge this with your other build topic on this model. Many of do have "restarts" and just continue the build log as it gives a better overall read of what worked and what didn't work.  

 

Let me know and I'll merge them for you.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Deciding to fabricate Timberheads after grading the frames to their final elevations, the following process was used. A tongue and groove assembly will be used on to the frames.

1. Cut 5 X 8 (s) to lengths approximately 1 to 1.25" in length so that the pieces could be handled by hand when sanding.

2. Construct a jig for the milling machine that would bevel the 5 X 8 pieces at approx 11.5 degrees. Mill the required bevels as shown in the photos below.

3. Sand the edges by hand

4. Mill the tongues at the base of the timberheads. Cut off the timber heads leaving a tongue of about 1/8"

5. File a notch in the frame to which the timberheads will be attached so that the timber head fits neatly on to the frame

Timberhead Bevel Jig Stage 1.jpg

Timberhead Stage 2.jpg

Timberhead Stage 3.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • Chuck changed the title to HMS Fly - 1:48 by Richard - POF

Looks like a beautiful start! And that's a very nice workshop.

 

If I may make a suggestion, please consider renaming this to follow MSW's naming conventions for build logs (see this link). It will help people find and recognize the work you're doing. You can do this by clicking the three little dots at the upper right of your initial post, then selecting Edit. That will give you an option to change the title of the thread.

 

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  • Ryland Craze changed the title to HMS Fly by Richard Feliciano - 1:48 Scale - POF

My apologies, when I commented this was a separate thread and I did not realize it was a continuation of another thread (which has now been combined, making my comment look bizarre). Please disregard. I still look forward to following your future work!

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's been a challenge to get started on the square frames. One of the issues one needs to consider is the layout of frames 14 Aft and Forward. The patterns given by Admiralty Group are for the forward faces of the frames. The rear faces are entirely different because of the slope of the deadwood. In addition, the actual disposition of your deadwood slope is not the same as mine due to construction variations of each modeler. I mentioned this to Greg Herbert who stated he had a similar problem. 

After constructing 14 Aft, the resulting frame was to narrow in width. 

My approach to resolving this issue:

1. Make a fairly accurate drawing of my deadwood using a carpenter's moulding template.

2. Draw building board line on this drawing using drafting dividers. I find my old K & E dividers to be more accurate than calipers for this purpose since they can fit into tight spaces.

3. Lay out the proposed frames (14 down to 12) on this drawing. Use this drawing to determine the bevels needed on the base of the frames.

Moulding Gage.jpg

Deadwood Template.jpg

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After fabricating frame 14 Aft, the resulting frame was too narrow to conform to the existing inside framing. To correct the problem a thin (2" S) strip was laminated to the interior of the frame with satisfactory results. The inside of the frame will never be seen. 

A bending heating iron created the needed curvature. The ends were tapered to zero thickness.1865269795_FrameLaminationComplete.thumb.jpg.05829a3bfee836e7d373102b3b6ef03e.jpg1949233406_FrameLaminationClamping.thumb.jpg.d47793cb2ca6484f2fc4fa11e9b5db79.jpg

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I'm trying to understand what went amiss here. Was the last cant frame a little high or the the first square frame a bit low to cause the disparity? Another possibility is that the inner surfaces of the cant frames needed more fairing. The way to determine this is to check the thickness of the last cant at various points and compare with the thickness of the dead flat pattern at her same points along the frame.

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As previously stated, I believe that the 14 Aft pattern is too narrow due to the significant slope of the deadwood at it's location. The pattern is satisfactory on the forward face but the back face is much higher thus requiring a wider overall cut out to achieve the interior and exterior surface. 

I made adjustments on 13 Aft by cutting the pattern fuller (~2" S) on the inside and outside.

 

You can see the interior of the stern has been faired.

 

I agree that there may be some alignment issues on the last cant frame, but looking down keel axis the alignment of the frames looks good to me.

 

After I raise the 12 & 11 frames, I will post a photo.

 

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2074075594_1314PlanView.thumb.jpg.6f46599c035209868e2d200401253db4.jpg1962592442_Frames13AFXSection.thumb.jpg.7c6816d625c1409e790464df3edb2681.jpg519098876_Frames1314.thumb.jpg.0a41a07beb34228b58fb70ee7c7bf038.jpgThe Square Frame patterns for 13 & 14 Patterns do not take into account the rising slope of the deadwood for the tops of the frames (see photo below). The frames are higher moving from 13 F to 14A. I wanted to check spread of the frames at the top of the patterns for the temporary cross spall. Using the information that I had previously drawn and the Plan Section for HMS Fly, I plotted the Tangent Offset for the frames in question. I then plotted the design heights for the top of timbers on the pattern drawings. Fortunately the Tangent Offset on the pattern drawings checked exactly with the Tangent Offset. 

The main point is Frames 13 thru 14 need to be cut down to design height.  (As previously stated, the 36 timberheads will be fabricated separately and  attached to the frames later.

 

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If you look at the frame pattern, you will see the slot for the deadwood. There are two lines across the top of the slot. The solid line is the fore edge of the frane pair and the dashed line indicates the bevel to allow the frame to sit at the correct height. Does that solve your problem?

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