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HMS Granado Cross Section by thibaultron - CAF Models - 1/48th - First POF Model


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  • ccoyle changed the title to HMS Granado Cross Section by thibaultron - CAF Models - 1/48th - First POF Model
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Part 001

 

I’m starting my build log of the CAF Models HMS Granado Cross-section in 1/48th scale (https://cafmodel.com/). This kit is a Plank On Frame with one side planked, and the other unplanked, to show all the frame/rib detail. CAF has a slightly different approach to the traditional (at least modern tradition) laser cut parts. Instead CAF CNC Mills the major components, allowing for better preshaping of the parts, for the modeler. Their site has more pictures of the completed model.

 

The HMS Granado was a Bomb Vessel. Instead of a broadside of cannons, she was build with just a few defensive cannons and two large bore mortars set in wells on the deck. Regular cannon were setup for ship to ship engagements, and could not be elevated to any great degree. Thus ships of the line could not readily reduce a fortification, unless it was set at close to sea level, and even then they could mostly just attack the walls of the fort.

 

The mortars on a bomb vessel however were designed to fire at high angles, allowing it to fire over the walls, into the interior of the fort itself. They were also of a much larger caliber than even a large broadside cannon. The mortar shells also had explosive charges to increase the damage.

 

The bomb vessels were generally moored in place, out of the range of the fort, during action with anchor lines at the bow and stern. This allowed the ship to be turned to further zero in the targeting aim, and insured that once the range and target were attained, repeated fire would land in the same spot, rather than having to resight for every shot. The ship was defended from ships of the enemy fleet, by regular ships from her navy.

 

To allow for a clearer field of fire the ships generally had two rather than the typical three masts, that a warship this size would carry.

 

This model is of the larger of the two mortars, along with the cover for the well, used during sailing, to prevent water from filling the well from wave and rain. The cross-section includes the large deck support beams, and the racks the shot was stored on.

 

Here is a photo showing a drawing of the completed model.

 

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The large box is fully packed with modeling goodies!

 

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One box contains all the hardware for the model, as well as hardware for the unique acrylic building frame. You build a box with supports for the frames and then assemble the model in this box, once all the individual frames have been assembled.

 

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The other box has all the acrylic pieces for the frame box.

 

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There is also a small sheet of photo-etched details.

 

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Included is a set of plans.

 

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These photos show the CNC milled wood parts. They are staying in the shrink wrap, and I will open them as needed during the construction. If you look closely you can see that some of the pieces have been milled on all sides to the correct shape. There will, of course, be more shaping on most of them, but a lot less than if you started with parts that were 2D laser cut on just two sides. Some of the flat parts are laser cut.

 

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 The loop hanging down in this shot, is my camera strap, opps.

 

 

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The instruction book is a well detailed, illustrated step by step guide. It comes in a semi-bound clear binder. I proceeded to unbind it, by peeling off the cover, scraping the glue along the spine, and removing the staples. I’ll scan the whole book, so that I can print out each page, if any should get damaged during the build. I have more than once spilled glue or paint while building a model.

 

I will also scan in the plans, for my own use only, so that I can print sections of the plans that you build various assemblies on top of. The frames, for example, are built on top of the plans.

Edited by thibaultron
typo
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  • 2 weeks later...

Part 002

 

I did some prep work over the last couple days. I’ve scanned in the frame drawings, so I can print out each as I’m working on that frame. When you build the frames, there are spacers that have to be glued to the plans, so I want to have the printouts, to glue to, rather than the plans sheet.

 

I bought new 5” sanding disks, and new belts for my Delta belt/disk sander. I had a hard time locating them in Home Depot, as the vast majority of the sanding disks, are for the newer tools that mount them using hooks, rather than self sticking ones. They were buried up in one corner, with about 10 times the selection of the hook types. The selection was also limited, the 120 and 220, were the finest grits they had. The belts were also limited to the one package with the three grits shown. I used Goof Off to clean the surface of the aluminum disk, so the new disks would sit flush.

 

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 I also pulled out the small parts, and I’m glad I did! The bag holding the 20 cannon balls had ripped, and several were floating around the parts box. If I had not noticed this, some of them may have gotten lost as I progressed. As it was, one of them fell out of the bag and rolled off the workbench! As it turned out, it ended up stuck between the back and cushion of my chair. I retrieved it before it fell between them, which was good, as the area under the seam is sealed, and I would have never found it, if it had fallen in.

 

I put the brass balls in a small jewelry can I had, and separated the bags of screws for the frame box, into separate cans as well. I was pleased to see that each of the three screw types, were in separate bags, not jumbled together. The three bags were stapled to one label. I then placed the cans and parts bags into a clear plastic compartment box.

 

Not a lot of progress, but it has been a busy few days for me, so I’m happy to have made some progress.

 

The ripped cannon ball bag, and the label for the screws.

 

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The small jewelry cans with the screws and brass balls.

 

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The parts in the container. In addition to these, there are the 3D printed corners for the frame box, which were too big to put in this box.

 

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Looking at these pictures, reminds me that I have to dig the PE fret out of the box, and put it in a container too, before it gets lost, or bent.

 

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Part 003

 

Finally got started on the actual model today. I printed out the frame drawing scans, one per sheet, onto cardstock. I measured to make sure the size was correct, then taped the sheet for Frame 6 onto the glass sheet on the workbench.

 

I went through the wood sheets, until I found the two shims needed for this frame. They glue at the tops of the frame drawing. I brushed some glue onto them, put them in place then put weights on each to keep them flat, while it dries. I’ll go back, hopefully, tomorrow, and start on the actual frame construction.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Part 004

 

Got a little accomplished today. I took the weights off the frame sheet, and the shims had glued down nicely.

 

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To prevent the frame pieces from sticking to the shims and frame sheet, I was going to used wax paper, but decided that it was both too thick, and opaque, for the job. Instead I used Scotch tape.

 

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First I put a long piece the length  of each shim, then cut carefully around the bottom of the shims, pushing the tape end down onto the paper, covering the area that the chucks will sit down on. Then I covered the rest of the bottom of the frame area, leaving a good length sticking up on the ends. I then cut across where the bottom tape crossed over the pieces left from covering the shims. Then, I pulled the cut ends off, leaving only  a short area where the taped was double thickness.

 

I noticed that the sheet was not completely flat near the top, so I placed a weight across that area.

 

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The parts numbering was a bit confusing, at first, until I examined the parts sheets.

 

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5F-6B4- For instance translates as, Parts Sheet 5F part 6B-4, as shown in the parts diagrams in the book. This picture also shows one of the reasons I scanned the instructions. As I find and remove the parts, I highlight them. As I progress, this will make finding the parts easier, by process of elimination. It will also, hopefully prevent me from ending up with parts left over, when I finish!

 

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I still have to cut out the rounded areas left when the parts were CNC routed, so I’ve only cut out the three parts highlighted.

 

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I have to figure out how to mount my lighted magnifier lamp “eyes” to the new work bench, as I had to leave off the built in vise at the right hand end, now that the spray booth sits there. The workbench top is too thick, to mount the factory “C” clamp.

 

I’m using a second compartmented box, like the one I put the small parts in , to store the frame pieces, while I’m assembling them, or when I finish for the day.

 

After some consideration I decided that I needed to be able to pin the frame sections in place while the glue dries, so I need to move the frame drawing from the glass plate to a wood base.

 

I did not have any wood that was flat enough for my satisfaction, so I needed to buy another piece. The best type of wood to insure flatness, is butcher block types. I went to Home Depot, and found a 17.5”X 1” thick disk butcher block piece. Even then most of them were far from flat. I went through them and only found three of a dozen or so, that were close to flat. I selected the one that was the flattest, and bought that one. It is still a little bowed, but very close to dead flat, and close enough for this application.

 

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So I transferred the frame drawing from the glass to the disk.

 

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I also bought a short MDF shelf, that I will cut into sections, and glue sandpaper to. This will give me nice flat surfaces to sand “stuff” on.

 

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Ron, some good ideas for ensuring flatness. I've been fortunate to have a friend who repaired copiers/printers once upon a time. He gave me some of the glass plates from the tops of these machines. They're flat plate glass and the edges are protected. I keep one for gluing various sand paper grits to and use the other as a build board, if I don't need to pin parts.

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