Jump to content

HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by niwotwill - scale 1:48

Recommended Posts

Again many thanks Chuck and Glenn for the nice comments along with all the likes.


Started on the next step the counter and transom planking. First is to thin the outmost stern bulwarks to 1/16". The monograph suggested to use a dremel or similar with a small abrasive. I had a small 1/2" dia sanding drum and it fit between the outmost and next bulwark with about 1/32" clearance.


Before getting into how I thinned the bulwarks I'd like to show a couple of items that I use regularly. The first is a 2' by 3' piece of carpet that I had made from scapes at a carpet shop. When working on your model the carpet surface is a very good protection for your priceless model.


Heres Cheerful sitting on the carpet



Another thing I use is a piece of 2" foam from a  craft store and cut to fit between the bulwarks. When working on an upside down model its so easy to break a bulwark so the foam makes a stable piece and keeps the model from sliding around while your working.



On the Cheerful you can see where I notched the foam for Cheerful's stern bulwarks



Here is a picture of the foam in place and Cheerful upside down



Back to thinning. I used the grinder to get down to 1/8" or so but this was very nerve wracking. So I went on to use #11 blades to pare down to 1'16" and clean out the radius at the deck. I finished up with sanding sticks and moved on the other side. For the starboard I used #11 exclusively paring down to approximately 5/64" and then finished up with sanding sticks.  Just a word this is much easier on the nerves and does a cleaner job requiring less cleanup. Another note of caution is while the monograph says it is stronger after planking and while that is true until you get down 1/8" thick and then you can feel the side starting to flex. This where the carpet really comes into it own as you can safely lay the model on it side with carpet beneath protecting the planking. Remember this is a single plank model and dents/scratches will be shown.


Finished ready for counter planking



Time for lunch and then counter planking



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Afternoons work got the counter planked. Bending all the planks so they fit adjacent to each other was a challenge with many do overs. Bent too much. Not bent enough. Putting plank in bending jig for a second bend is touchy business as when you get the plank hot it also gets harder along the grain and with to much bending they split and break. A do over. It was fun watching the stern come to life tomorrow I'll plank the transom. The transom will bring it own set of challenges or as my friend Nick used say opportunities to succeed.


The usual pictures. The scorched area is where I was heating up the glue joint to remove planking. It worked well making the titebond churn sticky but the wood turned faster that I could stop the iron hence the scorch. Luckily it will be covered up and only you and me will know its there.





Link to comment
Share on other sites

Busy day on house cleaning but I did manage to sneak out and plank the transom I thought it would be better to bend the planks in a whole piece rather than piece it together between the ports and sides. The planking came out really nice and now I have to finish cutting out the port opening. I'm going to finish the Cheerful with the ports closed as there will be no long guns aboard.

finished planking and start cutting the port openings


From the port view


From the starboard view



Tomorrow first coat of wipe on poly and then the 2nd coat before fashion pieces. Maybe I should put the fashion pieces on before the wop. Thoughts


Link to comment
Share on other sites

She's complete waiting for poly to cure and then the wales. The rabbit around the aft ports was cut a little larger that the sides were since the aft ports will have doors and will need something for the glue. The fashion pieces really brought home that this is not a kit when I tried to use the plans to make patterns for the fashion pieces. They were close but not good. So I made hybrid patterns using the forward side from the plans and the aft side from the boat. Using a cardboard I traced both side of the counter and transom and when with the pattern on both side I couldn't believe it fit on both sides. I knew I was careful but not that good so the sides matched. Bending the fashion pieces in two directions was a problem the required multiple heating cycles. Even then I had to hold them in place while the glue set it took 3 songs to get them in place.

Starboard Side


Port Side



I also placed the fancy molding base below the ports



Couple of pictures after the first coat of wipe on poly



Aft viewIMG_2013.thumb.jpeg.3dbecfe96109c2cc515f2e872b902c24.jpeg

Starboard Stem view



Port Side view



Aft Port viewIMG_2017.thumb.jpeg.f6f04b99e385a130a90f49129ba236cf.jpeg


Stem Port view



You can tell I like the way she looks with wipe on poly. I didn't put any highlighting on the edges of the frames and have been concerned that they won't display very well. The pictures really show the lines and I'm very happy with the way it looks. Can' wait to plank the rest of Cheerfuls strakes.







Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chapter 3 is finished


Planked the wales with ebony wood without any problems. First I finished the ebony I had ripped earlier by running them through to sanding planer to get a width of .031. Next I sanded with 400, 600, 800 and finally 1000grip wet-n-dry paper. While working with the ebony i used my dust collector and whore a max continually as I've read the ebony dust is toxic. I followed the plans for the plank lengths and with a minor amount of bending to get the stem curve. Thinning planks down to enter the rabbit at the stem worked as I had hoped. I also bent a slight curve for the aft upsweep. It was just a I hoped not a problem and the results are wonderful. The only thing I'll mention is the butt joints are invisible with the black wood. Maybe I should have broken of the top edges of the cuts made with the razor saw. Oh well what's done is done and I'm on to Chapter 4.


Ebony strips after planning and before sanding (don't know why these pictures rotated)






Added the first coat of WOP and some pictures



Again thanks for the looks and likes








Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good, nice work. I like the use of ebony. Where did you find it?  I used it on Fair American, it really sands up nice to a high polish with WOP. But I have to ask how did a whore max help and does your wife know about that 🤣😂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Switched gears and started working on Cheerful Sunday. Today I finished the first two strakes including the drop plank. I took a 3/16" plank and using the bulkheads as reference marked the 5/64" end and where the taper starts. Placed the  plank in a jig I'd made and tapered to my mark. Using a long plank allowed me to cut at appropriate lengths making a nice butt joint. Started making a pattern when I realized that it would be best to have the second strake in place to determine the end of the drop plank. After many patterns one was glued to the 3/64" thick wood. After the glue had cured it made it easy to use a new #ll and follow the pattern. Minor sanding was required to fit into the opening. Starboard done now on the port side where I used the same process for the pattern and drop plank. The process was fun and turned out nice.




I haven't done any sanding yet I think I'll wait until I get the next 8 strakes in place before sanding. Now on to lining of the hull. I've never lined off a planking and for the matter this is the first single planking I've done. Reading the monograph, Chucks Winchelsea, and many logs I am ready to start. First I made a tick strip for the bulkhead 0 and out of curiosity I divided it by 18 and OMG. The tick strip was 3.375" and when divided by 18 the result you guessed it .1875 (3/16") No way I could be that good but both sides are the same. I feel better to start lining off the bulkheads.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Started to line off hull and got midships to stern completed on port side. This is a lot of work especially when I first was using the fan printed on my printer was not to scale. Had to mark a new 3'16" and use this as the reference point. Taking my time so didn't get as much done as I'd hoped.




Where the marks were too thick I think I'll paint white gesso on the bulkhead and redo them.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

After studying my lining marks and reviewing many logs I decided to start the lining using a sharp pencil. First I painted the frames with white gesso to smooth the surface and create better contrast. Where I had marked bled through the gesso so it took three coats before getting coverage. Now looking a the frame surfaces the gesso has made them smoother and should be easier to line off the frames.


Couple of photos with the gesso drying throughly before lining off. I plan on using a drafting lead holder with 2H lead and sharpening between frames.




Start lining off tomorrow


Link to comment
Share on other sites

With Glenns question No I haven't done a test between gesso frame and plank. I've glued other things on top of the gesso with no issues, but I'd better test. Thanks Glenn for your input very appreciated.


I made a quick jig using the plywood frame that held the bulkheads. Did some sanding to mimic the faired frames. Painted the gesso and let it dry.





Took a ALC 3/16" plank and cut 6 1" pieces and glued them to the test sample with medium CA glue the same as i use to plank



After glue set I pulled on the 1" strips. The gesso held and the wood to wood broke free with about the same effort as I've experienced removing planks.




Then while pinching one plank I was able to lift the panvise. I realize this is a simple test and is purely subjective but enough to make me comfortable.




vise being lifted


Feeling better I ripped 60 3/16" x .046 planks  Before ripping the wood was surfaced down to .185 uniformly across the surface using the byrnes thickness sander. Doing this ensures that all the planks are the same width.




a closeup to look at the grain pattern and these are directly off the saw no sanding or finishing done.



I am very impressed with the wood purchase from Modelers Sawmill. Can't say enough about the quality of the wood, the price, and quick delivery from Canada to Arizona. I highly recommend them for you wood to rip.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad you did the test and it works out.


I may have to make the Thickness Sander my next toy...I mean tool... The minor variations in plank thickness become a bigger deal when planking, especially single planking. Good call on that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Little update on planking. Finished to first 8 strakes on the starboard side. The lining was very helpful as this is my first one layer planking. Each plank was lightly sanded and the mating edge beveled prior to  carefully marking each plank using the tick strips and then shaped the plank before bending. 

Taking the strip to the ship and finding the apex of where to max bend was located. The strip bending was done using Chucks method of a hot iron. The butt ends of each plank were finished using a razor saw and sanded with a bevel making tight fitting butt joints.


Planking after light sanding with fine paper.




After one light coat of WOP.



For my first planking I'm very proud of the result. After WOP dries the port side will be started. I also put WOP on the counter as it will be painted. Reading gbarlows comments regarding painting over WOP made sense so why not follow as his work is beautiful.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many thanks to everyone with likes and especially thanks to PRS, Chuck and Glenn for the very nice complements.


Chapter 4 is finished

I realized that I hadn't described how I taper the planks and file the mating edges. Somewhere I saw a board with a slot cut to hold strips during shaping. I took a piece of  boxwood and with the table saw cut a slice slightly wider than the plank strips. 



After measuring and marking the strip it is set in the slot and using a sanding block with 150grip paper sanded to shape




As you can see this plank is almost to the mark

Another tip I learned from gbarlow was to sand an angle on the adjoining ends of planks to make tight straight butt joints. Thanks Glenn



Starboard side completed with no sanding



Both side done and lightly sanded



Coat of WOP on both sides




My planking has gotten much better and as Glenn has said I wish the boat had three sides. 

On to chapter 5  starting with the square tuck when the WOP dries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Square tuck completed and now ready to line off the lower 10 strakes. Building the frame for the square tuck was straight forward but the fiddlely little vertical pieces were another matter. First I tried to free form the curved end and when fit align the length to fit the opposite end. That piece has a slight curve and that was the issue. After many attempts there had to be another way. Being a straight line kind of thinker maybe a template would work, but how to make the template. To make a template I stretched a piece of painters tape across the port side tuck frames and using a new #11 blade cut the tape using the inside edge of the frame as a guide. Cut 5 pieces of wood and taped them together using the triangular shaped tape template. Tracing the outline left the pieces a little long for final shaping.






System worked and was able to finish the square tuck.



The coat of WOP made the joints more visible than I thought they would be but we'll see.  I think I've become too critical of my planking lines and the transom and square tuck are about the same,




Link to comment
Share on other sites

The square tuck is an adventure to make but a signature of this build. I certainly cut more than a few pieces for it.  Nicely done using tape to measure the pieces, it looks great. Are you bringing the top of it flush to the bottom of the counter?

Edited by glbarlow
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Glenn and all the others likes and comments. As to the top even with the counter, it is almost even but a little more careful sanding is required. When I get it where I'd like I'll start painting the counter. I asked Chuck for suggestions of how to get even color with the semitransparent red paint and have tested his suggestion of many coats of thinned paint with light sanding between coats using 400 grit paper. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just checked mine and remembered there is a molding piece between the counter and the square tuck too. I did the thin paint thing on the counter…it does finish nicely. Just remember the top of the rudder has to be done the same to match. 

It makes me happy to visit my Cheerful, I’m sure it will be the same for you. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finished the lower band of strakes. This has been the first time I carefully lined off the frames before planking and I can't believe how well it worked. 

When I measured the "0" frame and divided the dimension by 10 the planks needed to be .2 instead of 3/16". On the advice of Chuck I ripped strips that were .2 wide. Interestingly enough at frame 16 the measurement was closer to 3/16". Instead of trimming each plank I left them at .2 and on the garboard strake the end was then a little larger that 1/8". It was easier for me to do it this way rather than fiddle around each plank to meet the lines which always have the line width to deal with. 


Lightly sanded and one coat of WOP






On to the port side


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Planking completed and a light coat of WOP. Next is the stern post after the WOP dries. While waiting I'll get the fancy pieces ready to be put on after the stern post. 


Port Side view



Starboard Side view




Bow view





Stern view

Oh yeh! I painted the counter while working on the planking. Followed Chucks helpful hints and thinned the paint and added many thin coats to get the even coverage. Red is somewhat translucent and when you have thick areas it becomes a darker red and doesn't seem to matter how many coats of paint. So using a 1/2" natural hair water color brush with slow even light coats worked to get an even color.




Really glad the planing is finished and excited to get some details done and then on to the deck.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...