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1 hour ago, modeller_masa said:

I'm making 3D capstan model for 3D printer

Looks like you are using Shapr3d.   As I did here:

Im sure that Toni will respond in due time, but to answer a couple of your questions, yes I noticed a few inconsistencies in the plans with regard to stated measurements.   However, this I think falls within tolerance, at least in so much as the intended build is in wood and therefore some amount of final fitting will be required.   When you assemble according to accepted practice you should be creating your grate first, then fitting your coamings to it  This ensures a good tight fit.  I look at ship model plans as approximations to be finessed as you build (in wood).    So I think you can apply the same principal here (as I did too with my own 3d work).  

 

Secondly, yes the battens are supposed to run fore and aft (or at least that what Ive read in various places).  

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Thanks for kind reply, Justin!

I'm using old version of sketchup. Looks like the iPad utility is identical and useful. It is amusing that someone already thought and ran similar idea. 😆

I'm appreciated to hear your advice. I also think minor digit is within tolerance. The third question looks like affecting outfit, but it really doesn't in reality. Therefore, these questions are ignorable and I can advance to the next part for now. ;) If I can get new number from Toni, I will gladly apply it.

Edited by modeller_masa
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If I recall I chose to fit my coamings, grates etc to fit the interior dimension as given dimensions would have decreased the sized of the opening and was not in keeping with other plans of similar period ships Ive seen.   I too went around and around with this.   I decided the interior wall of the coaming should align with the interior face of the carlings and beams.   This should be born our in the plans, even if not necessarily in the tutorial.   Seen from below:

 

1524499016_Screenshot2021-10-18at7_49_32AM.thumb.png.9e5a3be2f41399de7c04aca89a074d6a.png

 

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capstan2.gif.544740f108a2dae560a5386b96429413.gif

 

I thought about real world project again. If I apply deck planking, margins between hatch frame and lower beam definitely help strength of planks. 

 

capstan3.gif.6d48ec0e55366d2054fb130d94ef5f47.gif

 

Therefore, Toni's tutorial should be the best hatch size for deck planking I guess. I think it makes more sense, but I'm not sure...

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