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HMS Victory by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC


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55 minutes ago, Bill97 said:

Ok thanks gentlemen, especially you Daniel. I did not email you with the question because I thought I bugged you enough with my order! 😊

So the work I need to do is represented by the white lines in the photo? I was so confused. I was thinking I needed to build up the height of the bow. In the picture there appears to be a light cream color stripe on top the hull at the stern end and maybe even at the front. This cream color stripe is what I was thinking I needed to fabricate and attach to the top edge of the hull. I am guessing now that the cream color object is just something in the photo? It even blocks the view of the bottom of the mizzenmast. What is that?

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Hello Bill do not worry to ask. But its always better to do like on a place like here as others can participate too - or even give you the right answer already before i find it 🙂

 

Yes you are right, it is about the thin and larger white lines in between the middle and upper gun deck ports. Easy to be done and with a good effect. Thank you for the question, I now can precise the instructions a bit 🙂

 

All the best, Daniel

Edited by dafi
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Daniel in your photo what is the thing my arrow is pointing to?  That is what I originally thought you were recommending i fabricate?  Cold not figure it out. As far as painting the black and ochre, the molded line on the hull was the line separating the colors. I will still use that point as the paint division line not widen to the edge of the Evergreen. 

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Thanks Tedrobinson. That is what was causing all my confusion. In Daniel’s photo it looked like just a long narrow strip of Evergreen mounted on top of the hull and running that distance. That is what I thought Daniel was recommending I make, not the two white stripes. I could not see the hammock carriers in the photo and thought it was just raising the height of the hull. All is good. Thanks to MSW!

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Ok here I go. Daniel if you are out there give me a holler if I am wrong. I am assuming the Evergreen measurement is .44mm deep and 1mm tall. .44mm is close to the depth of the raised area on the hull at this point. So if that is correct I am widening the raised area 1mm at the top and 3mm at the bottom. Unfortunately the thinnest Evergreen I could find is 1mm so I may have to sand it down flush with the existing raised area. Somebody holler if I am wrong before I screw up! 😳😀

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Bill,  you could do that but Evergreen does make sizes close to what you need.

 

https://evergreenscalemodels.com/collections/14-white-polystrene-strips/products/122-020-x-040

 

and to save you the trouble of gluing three rows on the bottom:

 

https://evergreenscalemodels.com/collections/14-white-polystrene-strips/products/126-020-x-125

 

Might be worth looking around for.

Edited by Ian_Grant
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Thanks Ian. You are a great help. My hobby shop did not have those great sizes so I bought. 1mm sheet and will just cut some 3 mm strips and some 1 mm strips. Glue them on and sand down about 1/2 mm. Will probably use a little course grain paper to establish some wood grain. Will let you know how it goes. 

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Also  to add more data  -  Victory at Trafalgar  some  feel she also had built up forward  forecastle bulwarks  of similar height to the  quater deck bulwarks  with cut outs for the  canons on the  forecastle deck,   some also feel these bulwarks  also had  short hamock  bins to help with musket shot from the enemy ships  same on the quarter deck bulwarks and mizzen deck also had  these  hamock bins  but were  taller.

 

Hope this helps.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Alright I believe this is going to work once I glue it in place. A little extra work to knock off about .5 mm in depth but should not be to much trouble. If you do this modification you for sure have to get Daniel’s plate 2 with the rigors. The Evergreen covers 6 on each side.
Thanks everyone for helping me understand this. For sure was scratching my head. 

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57 minutes ago, Bill97 said:

Alright I believe this is going to work once I glue it in place. A little extra work to knock off about .5 mm in depth but should not be to much trouble. If you do this modification you for sure have to get Daniel’s plate 2 with the rigors. The Evergreen covers 6 on each side.
Thanks everyone for helping me understand this. For sure was scratching my head. 

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What might also be a good idea  - where the strips meet the steps on the right in your pic above, you could remove the Two  step - run it straight across then make the Two missing steps out of your plastic evergreen stock.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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All perfect sirs 🙂

 

Just a small explanation: I used the three stripes of 0,4 mm x 1 mm as this is standard material and the 0,4 mm x 3 mm is a special size I will not use too often. And seeing the prizes of Evergreen ...

 

Also to come back to the build barricades on poop and forecastle: I discovered the footer on the instructions: "pictures showing an alternate version ..."

The part Bill was asking about is a wooden cover, some planks outside the hammock cranes, protecting them a bit more. This was standard by 1803, when the Vic came out of the repair. Also in this picture the forecastle bulwarks are risen, a detail that was also state of the art in 1803 and is documented nicely in Turners drawings. 

 

All the best, Daniel

 

Here is some more detail about it:

 

Edited by dafi
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Query:  How do I click in Daniel's message above to read more about these Turner drawings? No matter where I click I end up at post #1 with the sun burning?  Too many pages to scroll through........

 

Sounds like my Vic might be out of date now after only a few years - no pink in the bee lines and no solid bulwarks 😒

Edited by Ian_Grant
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Dear Bill, I hope you do not mind that we get beyond your build log 🙂

 

For the above mentioned links, one has to click onto the arrow on the top right corner to go to the mentioned entry.

 

But there is nothing about Turner shown there. I think @Morgan mentioned something hehe in MSW.

 

The best interpretation so far imho is from Maik and to be found in our german forum:

https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t7042f1475-HMS-Victory-Spurensuche.html

https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t5671f1475-William-Turner-quot-The-Victory-From-Quarterdeck-to-Poop-quot.html

https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t6980f1475-Turners-Deckszeichnungen-der-Victory-reloaded.html

https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t7001f1475-HMS-Victory-nach-Trafalgar-ein-letzter-Zeuge.html

 

You have to subscribe and you will find a "select language" button in the left bottom corner of the window. Automatic translation of course, but it gives the idea.

 

But now back to Bills wonderful build!

 

All the best Daniel

Edited by dafi
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Oh no Daniel I don’t mind at all. I enjoy the different conversations. As you can tell we are up to page 5 and I have only just begun my build. I hope everyone continues to share and discuss on my blog throughout. I have decided to wait until I get your plates before I add the Evergreen to the hull to increase the wale. I will need to remove the molded  rigors to add the Evergreen. Don’t want to do that until I have the new ones in hand. Just in case something would happen that I would not get them. Working on guns now while I patiently wait. 

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Started out working on the 100+ cannons by airbrushing surface primer on the carriage and wheel parts while still all together.  Thought this would be easier than assembling them first and then priming them individually one at a time. I have now realized I may have to scratch the primer off the connection points before I can glue them. Maybe I should build the carriages minus the barrels and then prime and paint them. This is definitely a pace yourself task as you all know. Have seen some beautiful paint jobs on the cannons here on MSW. Hope I can come close to the work others have done. 

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When I am not working on my Victory I am reading this great little book I picked up. Admiral Nelson’s Pocket Manual 1805. Not reading it so much for tips on building the model, even though there are a number of physical features of the ship included in the pocket manual, I am fascinated more about his reports of general daily life on board the Victory in 1805. Some of the interesting charts included in the book are the rations planned for each crewman, the pay scale by rank/position, the age of his crew, and most interesting is the discipline. Chart indicates by name offense a crewman committed and number of lashes he got for the crime. If a crime was committed that warranted the death penalty a crewman was hung from a yard and left there for an hour or more for others to witness as a deterrent. 

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Alright, another question for you guys who are building this Victory or did recent enough to remember.  Working on the guns which is no problem, just repetitive. I like to thoroughly read over each instruction before I proceed to make sure I don’t jump the gun on something. In instruction 7 (preparation of the guns) there is a small drawing of a completed cannon in the left corner. In the photo there is a line pointing to the gun rigging with the caption “Thread ref. 332”.  I am guessing this is advising me what size thread yo use, but I don’t know. I have no idea what ref 332 is. I wondered if there may be a chart or something in the instructions numbered 332 but no. There is a part number 332 but that is a port lid. There is a table of threads but does not go anywhere near 332. Any idea what “ ref 332” is?

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Bill, you're giving me nightmares by having me re-read my crumbling Victory instructions 🤪. Sorry I don't know what this refers to either. I made zero use of their "Table of Threads" as I rigged by a book. In any case, I believe the breeching rope was 6-3/4" on an upper deck 12 pounder which translates pretty close to 0.5mm DIA thread.

 

The gun tackles on a 12 pounder were 2-1/2" which translates to 0.2mm. I think I used 0.25mm as 0.1 looked flimsy. With care, 0.25mm can be rigged through Syren 2mm wood blocks.

 

And this reminds me:  Many modellers, including me, filed off the "flash" on the gun pommels only to later realize that the "flash" was meant to represent the breeching ring.  Popular consensus was to file off the flash and add breeching rings using small eyelets, at least for the show guns.

Edited by Ian_Grant
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No idea either. Sure it represents the breech. 

 

One more tip: If you assemble the carriages, have a look that the ejection marks point to the inside 🙂

 

XXXDAn

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Thank you Ian. Just in time. I am cleaning up my cannons as I am commenting here. I have already filed off the “flash” on 7 of the gun pommels!  I will stop that immediately. Glad I felt a need to check my blog 😀

 

Thanks for the tip Daniel. I will watch for that. And for the tracking info for my etched parts. 

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Yes, that's it. Thanks for the stroll through memory lane😀.

 

If you can drill large enough for the breeching thread then great!  Not sure how it would look. It might be worthwhile to add eyes for the show guns. I've lost the pics from early in my build, but here is about the best I have showing the main deck guns with the rather neat attached eyes for breeching rings.

 

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