Jump to content

HMS Victory by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC


Recommended Posts

Have any of you guys watched the movie Master and Commander with Russell Crowe?  I watched it again this evening. First time watching it since I started the Victory. If you have not seen it you need to.  Admiral Nelson is discussed at length by the crew of the ship in the movie. I don’t know where this movie was filmed or how, but the realism of the ship was incredible to include the rigging. Look for it if you have not seen it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Bill97 said:

Have any of you guys watched the movie Master and Commander with Russell Crowe?  I watched it again this evening. First time watching it since I started the Victory. If you have not seen it you need to.  Admiral Nelson is discussed at length by the crew of the ship in the movie. I don’t know where this movie was filmed or how, but the realism of the ship was incredible to include the rigging. Look for it if you have not seen it. 

Indeed  I think most of us have seen the movie  - also lots of other great Nelson reference to films  either by  @mtaylor  or myself  with a friends  up and coming movie about Nelson and Trafalgar.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great work with the hull  - those brass tiles will so thank  you when they age  - she will so look the part.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure you've read them, Bill, everyone on here seems to have done so, but in case not, Patrick O'Brians Aubrey/Maturin series should get you into the mood and the Bolitho series is pretty good too. Come to think of it, it must be a good two years since I finished re-reading O'Brian, feels like time to do it again!

 

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HELP!!

 

Ok my friends I need you to tell me if I have done something wrong before I go any further. Yesterday I put in the Lower deck and the 30 guns. Today I am dry fitting the Middle deck which was snug and needed to be sanded a bit. I also skipped the Upper deck and dry fitted the Quarter deck just to check the width of the space. The Quarter deck was really snug but fit perfectly once I got it in. All good so far until I was curious about the obvious slant of the opening at the top of the bow where the bulkhead goes. It is wider at the top than the bottom. I held the piece up to the opening (as you can see in photos) and discovered it is to wide at the bottom?  All the deck pieces are really tight. Did I do something wrong when I put in the Lower deck?  Only thing I have glued in so far

52D5DF0F-3AD4-4456-813C-20988FA45FB4.jpeg

D28DCB09-297A-4CBC-B21E-202E6A1B2056.jpeg

29C481BB-62A5-4462-843B-792C98E3612B.jpeg

C32269B0-DB3B-4C7D-A738-265250E6A237.jpeg

046DF628-2D70-4FC4-B840-43B43849029E.jpeg

3859E8C8-2C1B-465A-8E64-9DA02279E646.jpeg

702721A7-8D6A-4259-A9D9-D3B0F349BB0B.jpeg

571F08B9-F9F7-44BD-BB9C-E217E3A898E4.jpeg

7727C2EA-155C-4DA4-BBF1-CB4406C9073D.jpeg

FF438D78-BCE7-451B-AB52-9F33763F1D44.jpeg

F555E790-763F-48D2-AE6A-440BB3A87258.jpeg

94FE2417-8FC8-4DD1-9B0C-8E927053BC69.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not having built the kit myself, yet, it’s a little difficult to say with certainty, but I believe the lower extension of these round houses is deliberate, so that the waste pipes have a means of ejecting through the headrails.

Edited by Hubac's Historian

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Marc. The more I tinker with it the more I think you are correct. Everything seems to fit perfectly except for the bottoms of the round houses. The flooring section matches up to it. And if the hull was wider at that point the deck would would not reach the sides. Guess I will just proceed and see what happens. Need to look ahead and see if something covers the open part of the roundhouse on each side. 

B218EF85-F1A9-4ECC-AF93-F5248580961E.jpeg

1CEF4B44-373A-4294-A5FB-787A83494426.jpeg

E9AC44C0-3644-460F-9F5A-FABE2AEDC503.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you mean the gap in the bows? If so, mine was like that OOTB, but these days, for dry-fitting, I have a couple of strong elastic bands running across the bow, hooked through the first set of gunports. This made it pull in and meet, and the decks now look fairly snug. I’m pretty sure this plastic moves with time as I remember going through all sorts of daft hoops to try to get them to meet when I first started the kit. These days they come together quite easily and I’m sure will be fine once everything is glued up.

 

if you mean the piece you’re offering up, mines’ the same so it must be by design. I’ve noted to self, previously, that it doesn’t seem to ‘snap’ into place in any way.

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry wrong thread ...

Edited by dafi

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Working my way up!  Lower and Middle decks in. Sixty cannons mounted in out position. Upper deck put in and putty applied to seam down the center. Once it drys I will gently sand and touch up deck paint. Now on to a whole lot of painting of parts that will go on these decks and the next one up. 

D9D86348-30D3-4E9F-994D-B356CF5580AC.jpeg

556F6EEF-3CA8-4FCF-BD2B-B1B5D981F161.jpeg

C81C48F8-A1BA-49A1-B98C-35B7FD9AA872.jpeg

879D6EF8-2F28-489F-B128-0EEEB822F1FF.jpeg

D416B1DD-D494-48C4-BA93-991D739CDCEA.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bill, she looks great! I like your weathered deck painting. I seem to recall being at step 9 for several months but you look likely to finish it in days. Remember BEFORE you glue in the quarterdeck that there are not only the lower sheets and tacks to attach to parts 41 & 100 we talked about already, but also lines to tie to part 89 (mainyard jeers, main topsail sheets, mainsail clew garnets; see note near top of pg 267 in Longridge). Regards, Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/31/2021 at 11:38 AM, Bill97 said:

Have any of you guys watched the movie Master and Commander with Russell Crowe?  I watched it again this evening. First time watching it since I started the Victory. If you have not seen it you need to.  Admiral Nelson is discussed at length by the crew of the ship in the movie. I don’t know where this movie was filmed or how, but the realism of the ship was incredible to include the rigging. Look for it if you have not seen it. 

Hi ,Jim here. If any members are interested in how movies are made , there are a couple of great things on YOUTUBE re the making of Master and Commander. ...very well done and very interesting.....

Having worked in stage and film production all my life it was good to see some behind the scene stuff once again. Hope you guys like it...All the best from Australia.

Edited by timjina
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a quick observation  - the roundhouses at the front are "Heads"  for the ranking sailors to use, My understanding is they over hang a good way so anything  done  (so to speak) can drop straight down into the sea.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Ian. My plan so far is to follow step 9 sequence just as written, I hope. For sure going to get those lines in before the quarter deck. I have read ahead the first section of Step 9, located the designated pieces for painting, including 41 and 100, and plan to tinker with that for a few days. Definitely a lot to do in Step 9. Will be referring to Longridge’s book as well as you guys builds. I am finding I have to keep referring to my etched parts from Daniel to make sure I don’t skip a part I got from him. I did a cross reference of my etched parts with the kit instructions and highlighted the part in the instructions that needs to be replaced by a etched part (notice the pink highlighter on the page 9 photo above). 
 

Thanks as well Old Collingwood. That explains the overhang. 
 

Bill

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ditto the weathered decks, I really like what you’ve done there. Bill, your log is going to be absolutely invaluable for me and probably many others, as it’s shaping into a true step-by-step walk through. Back at the beginning, before I got side-tracked by 3D, I was positively worried that I’d get the assembly sequence wrong and be unable to rig properly, etc, and I don’t think I found any other log that did what you’re doing. Especially one that raises and resolves the many head-scratchers along the way. So, keep it up!

 

(I also eventually remembered the wrap-around gubbins (technical term) that hide the gap between the heads and hull, and, when I last dry fitted the bow, thinking I’d need to take a lot of care there to ensure good alignment).

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Kevin. Hopefully it will be as helpful to others as all of the help others have been to me as I have gone through. 
 

Something I think I just noticed, and I may be wrong. I picked out the next handful of pieces from the kit to begin painting. When I examined them for any needed cleanup I noticed there are no connection type additions. You know like little pins on the bottom of a piece that is to be inserted into a predrilled hole on the ship with glue for a solid joint. These look like they will just be a smooth but joint.  Not seen that before on other models. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is just a curiosity and maybe more a question for the moderators. Do you guys ever get multiple pings of the same notification?  I will sometimes open this site and have a high number of notifications. When I click on notifications there will be numerous replications of the same notification. The attached photos are screenshots of a couple examples. 

F5719D65-F6EA-4DF4-B239-69E69FAF1AFA.png

106DB6D1-1533-4DC0-8D38-EB86ABB98100.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't recall butt-joining things like stag horns and bitts onto bulwarks or decks, but I think all the masts and spars lacked guide pins too rather like the cannon barrels.

 

My current Preussen kit has the same lack of "tenons" let's call them. Especially irritating was the tiny dolphin striker which was to be butt joined to the bowsprit; that would never have held. Same with the support stanchions for the boat skid beams. Must be a Heller tradition. On the other hand, though, all the kit parts fit well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ian as I used to tell my kids “you hollered before you were even hurt” 😀.  I was mistaken and looking at the first few parts (41) wrong. The pins are on there just not where I thought they would be. I was just expecting them to be placed a different way than the pins will have them. Operator error this time. 😀

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK my friends before I proceed with with this step, do I have this sheet right?  Started at a hole through the hull, went up to a block that will eventually be attached to a yard/sail, then back down through another block fixed to the outside of the hull, then back through another hole in the hull. Both ends attached to a cleat on the inside wall of the hull. Problem I had/have is I have no way of knowing if I am running the sheet line through the correct holes in the side of the ship. The instructions are so vague in that it does not clearly show the specific holes. If it looks like I am going through the wrong holes please let me know. The picture in Longridge’s book is confusing in answering this question. 

311CED9E-8BBA-4E66-AFD0-73D7FB8A3B68.jpeg

0A464443-6604-46E6-A86E-C9430B75DCA6.jpeg

AC89BD56-F27C-45B0-AB4B-A9B727F87999.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...