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HMS Pegasus by Mirabell61 - 1776-1777 - scale 1:64 - 16 gun - Finished


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Update on the boat.....

 

 

of course I was too impatient to see if all had worked out as I thought it would.

When taking the small (upside down planked) boat-hull from the block I ripped off some of the upper parts of several frames. But thats not too much trouble because the middle sections of the frames will be removed anyhow....

 

 

 

 

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thats how it looks after removing from the building base

 

 

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some of the broken upper frame portions

 

 

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planking so far acceptable, will need some touch up work

 

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thats the rough hull, without trimming, bow post and keel are on. I was surprised how light the hull is, it feels in hand like the half-shell of a cracked giant walnut

 

 

Nils

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Nils, you have done a beautiful job simulating the geralds at the stem. The flow from clinker to the smooth lay of the geralds as the clinker transitions into the stem and transom is nearly as difficult a part to simulate at that size as the correct overlapping of the clinkered part of the plank. At least I would assume so....

 

Beautiful work, and fast also. Your work only makes me want to tackle a clinker build vessel all the more.

Edited by themadchemist
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Relooking at your work, (I love relooking at good work and thinking my way through your process) I'm now beginning to question how you achieved that correct look.

 

Did you bevel or “brow” the Lands (lap) and were gerald's cut adjacent to stem or was this achieved with beveling alone or just sanding them back even?

Your plank widths, wide mid-ship and narrowing at the stem and transom, with narrowing happening at maximum curvature points makes your little walnut shell quite real looking, to the form in which I understand them to be build. I wondered if one could make a razor blade scrapper to scrap in the geralds and was just wondering how you achieved your excellent realistic results.

 

I also just realized that the stem and keel were not fit until after removal from the jig. Was fitting the keel/stem more difficult post planking or did it aid in creating the rabbet line

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Martin,

many thanks, I`m glad you like it

 

 

Omega,

thanks for your appreciation and also a merry Christmas to you

 

Michael,

thanks for your words , I also like the clinker build for those reasons. I would have liked to build a real wooden Dinghi for sailing and rowing, but then had a GRP hull daysailer instead for many years

 

Mark,

thank you very much, the Little Shell turned out to be 4 mm longer than planed, but luckily it still fits in at the foreseen place at the "Pegasus" waist area

 

Keith

I see with a smiile you realy have looked at the details......

the build-stem and transom surfaces are flat without any rabbet grooves, the planks are rather thin and do not allow much sanding after Fitting. The plank Ends are cut (beveled to the end sections, appr, 15 - 17 mm), the plank widths are tapered with a scalpel from mid length to both Ends with aid of a metal ruler.

The "rabett" at the stem is simulated by means of post adding a seperate stempost (also keel) after the planking is done. This can also be seen done a number larger, in the same technique for my "HMS Pegasus"  post # 23, build log part 12.

For the Long overlappings in remaining plank length there was no beveling done for the landings. Glueing was per CA application with toothpick at landings , stem and transom.

For the Illustration of the plank endings here is a Little Hand scetch

 

 

NIls

 

 

 

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Thank you Nigel,

 

agree with the "something satisfying"... remark on small ships, I think its probably that one Comes to results faster, turning in Hand, looking at different angles, and relativly quick adjustments possible.

I just looked back to your RC`s Launch, beautiful Little boat in slightly different technique, but also Overhead planking. Was that from a kit in 1:48 or so ?

 

Nils

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Thank you for the hand drawn illustration Nils.

I figured it was accomplished with beveling of some kind. If it was just sanded flush one would tend to sand through the overlaying plank and show the space (gap) beneath. Especially on such thin stock. 

The geralds, to my understanding are to get the planks to overlay and interlock with the opposing gerald or rabbet of the underlying and overlying planks. Building such a small feature at that scale would be near impossible but your technique simulates it very nicely. The plank narrowing adds much further detail.
 
I've watched the videos of the clinker build dinghy by Traditional Maritime Skills on youtube many times and it is a project that I very much would like to attempt, maybe even at a much larger scale, even possibly to 1:8. It may be best to start with a smaller scale for practice though. After finishing my first longboat, I still wish to continue with another, as I find them a very relaxing project and not near as easy as one might expect it to be, which is part of my intrigue.

One of my recent studies has been the building of a clinker vessel and I always appreciate those that build them and show details which help me in understanding the best way to simulate the smaller details in such small scale.
Thank you for your expertise, it is appreciated.

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Update on captain`s gig.....

 

 

there is still quite a lot to do on this little boat, but its realy fun all the way

 

 

 

 

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added a black liner at the sheer

 

 

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here the floor grating and linings covering the connection links and the grating contours

These grating start breaking away, the moment one starts cutting slots etc.....

 

 

post-3445-0-64034800-1418757690_thumb.jpg

 

 

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aft section sitting area and pillar support beneath the bench, plank floor here

 

 

 

 

Nils

 

 

 

 

post-3445-0-77220400-1418757687_thumb.jpg

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Hi Nils. Your gig is truly inspirational. What a marvellous build in its own right! She's truly deserving of being displayed as a model on its own, with its own stand and display case. I do, however, know that's not going to be the case because she belongs on Pegasus.

 

You sir, are a true craftsman.

 

Well done.

Edited by Omega1234
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Thank you Juergen,

there were times when I got frustrated (breaking Frame parts when removing from the build plate, or breaking out structures from the gratings), but all is mended now

 

 

Keith,

thank you, I still had two Little sets of grating parts I could use here, but not enough to replace gratings where some Little bits had broken away

 

 

Thank you Omega,

It could have been a wee bit shorter in planing, because the model mostly gets a bit longer than planed (but it still fits in)

 

 

Thanks Popeye,

the gratings build 30 x 30 mm in raw condition, so There had to be three single plates, and there is a slight horizontal curvature in the grating floor

 

 

 

I`m not sure if there should be four or six oarmen to find their stagered seat Arrangement (one man per seat) and if I should arrange for small mast-foot Settings, and rigging Points, in case the gig should be sailed. In the literature I fould remarks that the gig was exceptional rowed and other comments that they were prepared for saiing as well

 

 

 

Nils

Edited by Mirabell61
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Hello Nils

 

It is a masterpiece. While I admire others in this forum for their extremely clean and almost clinically precise builds I also like that just slightly handcrafted look your work still has. It’s beautiful, individual and charming, for me it looks almost more authentically and is a true work of art.

 

Oh, and please have mercy with those poor sailors and allow them to sail the gig if the wind is favorable – rowing is hard work!

 

Cheers

Peter

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Hello Peter,

 

Thank you for your words...

 

I´ll follow your suggestion to allow sailing as well......, but without rigging masts and sails. Trust that will be a good compromize

 

here is a rough illustrated thought i have for rowing mode : capt. at the tiller, six men at the oars, two mastfoot positions with additional support attached to seat 2 + 6

ref. to hand scetch

 

the sailing mode : two masted, without stays (masts just stuck in place), sails acc. a little bit to the rigging of a naval marine cutter for rowing and sailing, but without triangle-foresail

Due to the long keel I think that a swivel-centerboard can be avoided

 

 

 

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arrangement with 6 seats for rowing, (one sailor per seat, long oars)

 

 

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this is a lovely cutter rigging ( borrowed from the web), although its heritage, it may perhaps be too modern ?

 

 

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this could be the arrangement for rowing / sailing my jig...

 

 

 

Peter, please feel free to let me know your opinion

 

Cheers 

 

Nils

 

 

 

 

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Update on Captain`s gig....

 

 

 

mast holding fittings and bow clues and and some small parts still missing, but at this stage it looks like what I had in mind

 

 

 

 

post-3445-0-31526100-1419006375_thumb.jpg

 

gig fits in on the gallows

 

 

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the captain saw that the rudder still requires seaworthy varnish

 

 

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staggered oar-hold port / stb for rowing with long oars, 1 man per seat

 

 

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two crew members are eager to get her into the harbour basin for trials

 

 

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the tiller can be slipped in also with the curve upwards

 

 

 

Nils

 

 

 

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Nils,

 

I like your boat, it looks great. However, you might want to think about the diposition of the crew. You have drawn them 'single' banked (one per thwart or seat), rather than 'double' banked (two per thwart), which is fine for the captain's gig – but I doubt they would have sat in the centre of the thwart.

 

I remember from my sea scout days, where we had a large pulling and sailing gig, that the crew sat on alternate sides, the oars (about 12' long) being over the opposite side of the thwart. Thus the bow oar, no. 3 and no. 5 (or 'stroke', the one nearest the coxswain or helmsman, and from whom the others take their timing) sit on the port side and their oars are out to starboard. Nos. 2 and 4 sat on the starboard side, with their oars out to port. I seem to remember we only used five oarsmen, rather than six, which would mean keeping this system might be problematic! Normally the bow oar was stowed with the blade facing forward and it was also a little shorter, due to the curve of the bow. I think it was also stowed down the centre of the boat, for ease in getting it out.

 

Incidentally, I had a look in my (1972) Admiralty ManuaI of Seamanship and they have the same disposition for an RN montague whaler, which your drawing somewhat resembles, although the after mast is rather smaller.  I hope this helps, rather than confuses! :huh:

Edited by Stockholm tar
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Thank you very much Kester,

 

thats a very nice and informative Input, especially because you experienced pulling on a gig yourself.

 

Now that the mast supports are fixed to thwart #2 and #6  the Crew oarsmen will be forced to sit on the opposite side to where the oars stick out, so that will be in compliance to your comment, thanks again....

 

Nils

post-3445-0-79523900-1419080303_thumb.jpg

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Hi Nils

 

Your proposed sailing equipment for your boat looks good to me. In ‘Anatomy of the ship Pandora’ I found the following picture of a 28-foot pinnacle which confirms your disposition. Pandora was built in 1779 and I use her occasionally as reference for Pegasus.

 

post-504-0-08285000-1419080528_thumb.jpg

 

If you allow a small critical comment: I think the rudder looks a bit to heavy compared to the graceful rest of the boat. But perhaps it’s only a question of the perspective.

 

Cheers

Peter

Edited by flyer
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thanks Peter,

 

thats a very nice drawing (Pandora related pinnacle), thanks for sharing, I`m sure the one or other fellow builder may have interest in for building this boat type...

 

For my build I also had the Feeling that the rudder could have been a tiny bit lighter, but I must admit, that the Patience to do it over again was not strong enough, so decision.... leave as is....

If I should hapen to do a small craft in this style again, all this would certainly be dealt with accordingly

 

Cheers

 

Nils

Edited by Mirabell61
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