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Lowell Grand Banks Dory by Tigersteve - FINISHED - Model Shipways


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Posted (edited)

Painting continues… Thwarts (not glued yet) were painted to match the color of the interior hull. The gunwale and cap rail are painted green. In the photo you can see the modifications to the cap rail. Mine did not match the profile of the hull so I cut them. I will remake those aft pieces to match the remaining curve of the hull after the first parts are installed.
 

I started to get a “chalky” finish to the interior hull. I think the paint got diluted with too much water. I will need to get a fresh bottle of paint to get the proper finish. 
 

I’ve been modifying the display stand as well. Updates on that coming soon. These macro photos are brutal. The finishes are much smoother to the naked eye.
Steve

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The profile of the hull was used to trace a parallel line next to the cutout where the original cap rail piece was removed from the sheet. After the shape was roughly cut out, I moved the piece along 220 grit sandpaper that was wrapped around my finger. Kit basswood is good for this. All that is needed is your hobby knife and sandpaper. 
 

While the cap rail pieces get pre-painted before attaching to the hull, see the attached photo of my modified base parts. The original kit supplied base seemed oversized. The base was treated with pre-stain before applying a natural stain. Three coats of Wipe-On-Poly was applied with fine sanding in between. 
Steve

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Posted (edited)

Completed display base. Next update will be after the cap rail is complete. As you can tell from my last two posts, this will take a while. There’s a lot of work necessary to get the model to an acceptable level.  
Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sanding sticks were made using kit wood and a glue stick. These sizes were very handy for working on the cap rail. I also modified the transom to a more pleasing curve. 
 

Painting is very close to being finished. I am trying to avoid purchasing more paint as I have over diluted a couple of my colors. Oar construction is also underway. 

 

Color scheme (Tamiya Flat Paints);

Exterior Hull: Flat Earth

Interior Hull: Desert Yellow

Cap rail/Gunwale: J.A. Green

 

For the few following along- thank you for all the likes!

Steve

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Posted (edited)

Testor’s Dullcote does not react well with Tamiya paints. I was getting a spotty, eggshell type finish. To recover, I sanded the surfaces most affected and repainted. Lesson learned. Test finishes off model. I will be using different paints going forward. Also, do not use Wipe-On-Poly over paint unless you want a sheen. I wish I took this advice on previous models. 
 

I over worked the sanding of the oars and have requested replacement parts from Model Expo. While I wait for those parts, I will construct the buckets and start the rope work on the model. I purchased Syren rope for this.  
 

I worked on the layout for the nameplate. Measurements are 3.25” x .25”. I will get that made at a local trophy shop. Very inexpensive and adds a nice finishing touch to the project.
 

Thank you Mike Stuntflyer and Ryland Craze for your assistance on the paint finishes.  I learned a lot from our exchanges. 
Steve

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Made four buckets- two quarter size and two nickel size. One bucket did not survive, but I think it would have been too crowded in the presentation. These will be painted and holes drilled. 3/16” strips were used in the construction. 
 

I applied one coat of paint after this photo, but used too much water. There’s a bit of touch up needed as the water caused some damage. Stay tuned…
Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Finishing the paint job on the buckets took a while. White and green paint were mixed in different ratios to get the desired hue. The final coat was the lightest version of this mixture, followed by a damp brush while the paint was still wet. This removed most of the last coat to create the texture. 
 

Holes were drilled in the buckets and the thwarts were permanently installed. Next, I will work on the oars. 
Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Using the techniques described in the manual, I tapered and shaped the oars. To get a consistent tapering across all oars, I used the technique shown in the first photo where I sanded towards the blade. 
 

The oars were treated with several coats of natural stain followed by two coats of golden oak, which were wiped off after about a minute of saturation. Leathering is next. 
Steve

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Posted (edited)

A square strip is provided in the kit to create the thole pins. I rounded the strip and pre-painted before cutting 1/4” pieces. Test fitting before applying glue will give you an idea how much time is needed to set the pins.
 

After the glue dries, lightly sand the pins to the same height. Touch up the paint afterwards. It was difficult to capture a good photo of the result. 
Steve
 

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Before installing the rope for the beckets, the holes needed to be reamed out. The tip of the ropes were treated with CA glue to prevent unraveling while passing them through the holes. The instructions advise cutting a 4” piece of rope, but I ended up cutting 6”.
 

After knots were tied, watered down white glue was applied. When dry, the excess was cut with a sharp blade as close to the knot as possible. For the bow, a bit of excess rope was left after the knot. This looked cleaner than when I cut very close to the knot. Watered down white glue was also used to set the ropes into position. 
 

Securing the base is next before rigging the buckets. 
Steve
 

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