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HM Bark Endeavour 1758-61 by DaveBaxt - Caldercraft - 1:64


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Posted (edited)

I know I am some way from the masts but all the dowels are white wood and just wondering what sort of wood it is and wonder why not Walnut ? It will therefore be necessary to stain or paint some of the masts and yards . I have some walnut dowel  in my stock so will probably change the masts which are not painted for walnut . Is there any other reason for not doing this other than the extra costs. I have tried staining lime before using a walnut wood dye and didn,t like the finished look although I am not sure if the supplied dowel is lime. Any ideas?

                            Also found most of the smaller dowels 6mm and under are also warped. Not too impressed with the kit wood so far. I wonder if it  would be better to  order directly from Caldercraft as I we don,t know how old the kit has been stored at the retailers.

Edited by DaveBaxt
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Finishhed glueing and pining the deck to the bulkeads and keel whilst everything in line whilst in the jig and hey presto a straight keel. I am over the moon and should hopefully remain so whilst laying planks alternatively port and stbd

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks Like I need to get in touch with Calder craft. After looking closer at the 1.5 mm Walnut sheet I first noticed that the stern facia  has four windows missing. At first I just thought that they had just dropped out and were waste. However on closer inspection I believe  these are recessed rather than holes, like the one in the middle. Also the edges are rough as if they have been broken off and cannot understand why. Also if these had just dropped off ,surely they would be in the box somewhere.

               If there are any Caldercraft Endeavor builders out there can you please confirm that the windows should be in place. Thank you.

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Hi Dave

That's how the kit is.  The window frames are photo etch and fit the spaces.  I've attached a couple of photos showing the part you've shown fitted with some black card behind and the other showing the photo etch fitted and painted.

 

Hope this helps

 

Mr P

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36 minutes ago, Mr Pleasant said:

Hi Dave

That's how the kit is.  The window frames are photo etch and fit the spaces.  I've attached a couple of photos showing the part you've shown fitted with some black card behind and the other showing the photo etch fitted and painted.

 

Hope this helps

 

Mr P

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

 

Thanks for clearing that up for me I also now know what the black card is for .I have also learned from your photos how the planking id finished off at the stern together with some of your other photos you have posted elsewhere on this forum. Best regards Dave

Edited by DaveBaxt
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Posted (edited)

This could be the last post for a while as I am leaving it until the better weather is over and the nights draw in. I have made a jig to support the model during the first and second planking. I have added filler blocks fore and aft using a mixture of balsa wood and bass wood ply. I much prefer the bass wood and wish I had waited until I had some rather than using the balsa wood but never mind here goes.

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Edited by DaveBaxt
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  • 2 weeks later...

A couple of more operations I thought I would try before continuing to plank the hull. First off I wanted to fit a pedistal fore of mounting the ship and fitting columes. Last time I tried just screwing it into the bottom of the keel and this did not work out as I was unable to get the ship to sit straight.

     I used a milling machine to drill the holes in the keel  and the used this to mark the holes into the false keel. I did a search for hidden nuts on google and was offered Tee nuts which were readily available,so thought I would try these. It was necessary to fit blocks either side of the bulk head and then mount the Tee nuts and once the bolts looked straight  the nuts were glued into position. Once the keel strip is glued into position this should hopefully stop any movement of the Tee nut.

                         I have also fitt another two blocks at the stern in the hope of increasing the amount of contact the planks will have as they approach the deadwood area rather than just the edge of the plank.Hope this makes sense.

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Made a start on the first planking and all went well until towards the end. The last quarter of the planks it was necessary to change tack and not continue planking the same way and continue to bend the planks in the same way but in the way as showen  thus.

20210716_081108 (1).jpgAlso Just after of where the blocks I have fitted are sinking in and require filling due to the planks somewhat sinking in. Perhaps I should have extended the blocks further aft as this is what I was trying to prevent. The pine planking was very easy to work with and only required soaking for a couple of hours and once on position with the help of a heating Iron only took another couple of hours to completely dry  and then the pins could be removed ready for glueing. Worked quite well but a lot of work to do with filler. I would sya this is probably my worst planking job so far.

 

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20210713_101426.jpgUsing the combination of the fold back clips and pins with scrap pieces of lime wood worked ok. The clips kept the planks togethher and also the surface flush. However as the planking got closer to the keel even the smallest of clips would not fit into the space. I made sure that each plank was carefully shamfered so no clinkereing occured but still needed to use the clips. I am now on the search for some kind of clip would sufface and keep the surfaces flush on my next build.. .Any ideas? Best regards Dave

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Edited by DaveBaxt
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

First layer of planking almost complete. After a quick rub with coarse sandpaper, I now think it will e neceassary to use some filler. I also needed to fill in some hollow using 0.5mm thick strips of lime. Before I can fill in the underside of the stern facia with planking I will now fit the keel, stern and stem posts.

I still have the bulwarks to do before starting on the second planking. Here is a couple of photos of the second planking. Note the stand and keel is not yet attached.

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Edited by DaveBaxt
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  • 4 weeks later...

Thought I would  post an update. before heading off to Cornwall for a week break.( I wonder if there are any good model shops or Museums I could go and see whilst I am down that way) Any way I have  made a start on the second planking. As it happens I don,t think I have done as good a job as I did on my Bounty when using 0.5 x 4 mm Walnut. This is 1 mm thick and I found it more difficult to work with. I ended up soaking for several hours and then allowing to dry overnight. Sometimes I used a heating iron to quicken the process before glue into place. There will be quite a lot of sanding to do ( perhaps that is why they use 1 mm thick Walnut) and will need to use some filler in one or two places but hopefully it should look ok when the planking is finished. I will try the Walnut dust and PVA mix as a filler , but wonder if you can buy Walnut filler already mixed..

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Completed the second planking from the wales to the keel ,working with 1mm x 4mm Walnut. It didn,t work out as well as my last ship the Bounty which was also in Walnut but only 0.5 mm thick and easier to work with I think. I had to use a few steelers  to fill in the gaps at the deadwood area .A lot of work still to do to with sanding and filler to get it presentable . Fortunately this area is painted. Hopefully I make a better job of the rest of the planking up to the Bulwarks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Completed second planking and started the sanding process. I need to fill some gaps with glue and found it was better to water the glue down so it would run into the gaps. The photos are of completed hull with coarse sand paper. next up will be using medium and fine grade sand paper before sand and sealer followed by super fine sand paper.

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Edited by DaveBaxt
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I am now considering the stern facia . Although the instructions say fit this before fitting the second planking I purposely left this until after the second planking as I thought it would be easier to trim the second planking at the stern before fitting the stern facia. Also it would be easier to clamp the 1.5x1.5 mm  strips of walnut to the stern facia before fitting to the hull I also sometimes wonder if it would be better to fit the wales at this stage, but on this case will follow the instructions and fit the stern facia before the wales. I will take another look at the other Endeavour builds and see what the other guys did. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

I am also considering leaving the inner bulwark planking until I have fitted the deck planks as I intend to fit waterways and think any inperfections of the waterway outer edge will be hidden.  I am not 100% sure if this is the correct way to do this but think it will be the easier as I did make an accurate template of the deck, only a tracing of the deck after the first planking was done. Hope this makes sense. Best regards Dave

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Edited by DaveBaxt
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Wales fitted and coarse sanding done  240 just 320400 to do ready for sand & sealer and then final sanding with 400/600 then. I then need to fit various port lids. I have been looking at the position of the channels which according to the drawing is fitted to the top ( side rail) wale and it looks like it is fitted just below the  just below this wale, however in all the photos bar one and including the Endeavour replica is inline with this top wale. I have discussed this in the following thread.

Also here is a few photos of the progress so far with the wales fitted. I have just notices there is one more to fit hwich is just below the Transom.

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37 minutes ago, DelF said:

Looking good Dave

Cheers Derek. I am still making a few mistakes , fortunately they are not the same ones as my last build the Bounty. There are a number of things I might do differently on my next build. Seriously looking at Vanguard for hopefully better instructions. 

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Regarding the position of the wales. Thanks to Allenyed who kindly supplied me with the following link to the origonal plans it would look like the wales are cut into the wale somehow. I just need to fid out the best way to do this. It may have been better if I made the wales to suit the channels first .Endeavour (1768) RMG J2056.png

 

Edited by DaveBaxt
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After deciding the length of planks 100mm I then decided on a 4 plank pattern and marked off the deck in 25mm sections and lay the first plank as No 4 with a pattern of 13241324 etc etc. then either side of 4 would be 2 and 1 and then outside of these would be 3 and 3 so on so on.I have one or two models of the Endeavour whereby the planks were continuous along the length of the deck which I thought would be ok on the fore and midship section but to long on the aft section . I thought for the size of the model and a scale of 1 64 the 100mm lengths would be 6.4 mtrs which thought would be long enough.. Here is the work after today. Using my Proxxon FET table saw made short work of the many 100mm lengths required but not so quick marking the edges with a marker pen.

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Posted (edited)

Before starting on the paint job I removed another 1 mm from the pedestals so the keel would fit into the slots. I used my Proxxon milling machine for the very first time and found it so easy to us.

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And here is the paint job so far together with the pedestal stand. There is still need to make a few touches here and there on the transom as I found it very difficult to achieve the straight lines even when using 6mm and 10 mm modelers masking tape.

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I must apologize for the quality of light in the photos ,unfortunately  the blue on the transome looks black the same as the mainwale/rubbing strake.

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Edited by DaveBaxt
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Started preparing the various cast metal parts with cleaning then white primer using spray  can then acrylic yellow orce and white for the brass windows . I have also blackened the brackets for the rudder with the help of the following thread which produced much better results than previous attempts at blackening.

 

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Posted (edited)

Tried the above method for blackening and for some reason it didnot work so well. I attempted to have another go but it was in the blackening solution much longer that expected. Yet once again after polishing there was on or two areas of brass showing through,so decided to wire brush the parts and then acetone before pickling and this time after only a few seconds in the blackening solution it was evedent the process worked better. After polishing on this occation it was 100% imrovement.

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Edited by DaveBaxt
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Posted (edited)

Started adding some decoration to the stern quarter and stern facia and adding the larger of the 3 hinges to the gun port lids which were previously fitted to the hull. There are still a number of lids to fit to the hull ( In the closed position) but I found it difficult to accurately position these on the hull ( Its an age related thing) so will probably glue these in position away from the model which I hope I will find easier. The metal decorations were glued using appoxy resin but the hinges were glued on using CA.

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20211007_165139.jpgI almost forgot. I removed the stand as the ship was not sitting level athwartships so decided to build another slipway /drydock which keeps the ship level. This is mainly for when I begin to fit the channels in the hope I can keep these in line with the water level rather than 90 degs to the hull. I am not 100% sure if this is correct but heard it mentioned somewhere.I think it will help with other parts of the build.

 

Edited by DaveBaxt
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Fitted Rudder pintles and bushes which I found very fiddly.Then I fitted the rudder straps first then temporarily secured the rudder with tape whilst gluing and pinning the longer rudder staps to the hull. Glued Quarter badges using CA glue after paining behind the windows mat black .Started focusing on the anchor linings part no 122 which did not fit. I therefore decided to make new ones with 5mm x 1.5mm Lime strips as can be seen below using double sided tape and extending the strips to enlarge the anchor linings and then shaping them. It will also be necessary to bend the 1.5 mm strips to suit the shape of the hull. Hope this works out ok.

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Edited by DaveBaxt
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Just realized I think O have made my first major mistake or perhaps not myself. Looking at the two hawse plates just which I have lined up just under the upper wale. Fortunately as yet I have not drilled the holes out yet. I have checked other blogs and they too have had the same problem and have fiited the naval hoods higher up than what is on the drawing.so I will need to do the same and cut away the upper wale. I am kicking my self for not noticing this earlier as a few people have documented the problem with this build. Hopefully I can sort this without any damage to the hull when removing naval. hoods.

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20211011_092631.jpgAfter removing the naval hoods and a section of wale you can see from the new position of the pins through the hawse holes that there should be enough clearance for the anchor rope to clear the deck. 

 

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Edited by DaveBaxt
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Change of tack here. Instead of following the instructions to continue with the hull fittings I have followed the blog by Dashi

 

and started on the deck fittings. First few fittings went rather well

 

 

20211014_160301.jpgMoving onto the Capstan and although the fittings weren't the best I decided to turn down the ends of the 8 mm Dowel and then cut slots to take the vertical Whelps. This has worked reasonably well

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20211014_160321.jpgNext up is the Binnacle assembly and I can't see any other place other than above the area between the ships wheel and the skylight assembly. I have looked at a few blogs and cannot see such a thing as this and see from some photographs that the compass his housed in a small cuboard and wonder if I should try to make something similar. Here is the drawings of what is supplied be the kit. 

If there are any Endeavour builders out there some help here would be of value. Thanks

 

 

 

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Edited by DaveBaxt
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Hi Dave, you are making cracking progress on the Endeavour after your Bounty.  I've been kept busy over the summer by the Admiral, who wanted a Summer house building and some DIY/decorating doing!  🙄

 

Light at the end of the tunnel, just one more room to finish (my eldest gone to University last month), so apparently that "Has" to be done before he comes back at Christmas and makes a mess of it again!  🤣

 

Then I shall be back to my Bounty...

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