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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60


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Another great model.  As the others have said, if not happy, repeat!  As with your other builds, your joinery is so clean and crisp.  I will enjoy following along with this one as well.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Lovely remake Bitao. Just curious - is the knee of  the head permanently affixed to the stem or just temporarily fitted? I'm asking because the knee of the head is usually tapered  aft to fore and from the lower to the extreme upper tip. As well the standard usually narrower than the upper knee/stem junction.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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3 hours ago, dvm27 said:

Lovely remake Bitao. Just curious - is the knee of  the head permanently affixed to the stem or just temporarily fitted? I'm asking because the knee of the head is usually tapered  aft to fore and from the lower to the extreme upper tip. As well the standard usually narrower than the upper knee/stem junction.

Hello, Greg. I'm sorry, because my English is limited, I can't understand you. Can you draw this position and direction on the picture? From what I understand, you're referring to a change in the thickness of the top of the ribs?:(

Edited by bitao
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No, Bitao. Those are the hawse and bollard timbers. Look at the photos below. In the first one the black arrow points towards the upper end of the knee of the head. It is where the figurehead sits and tapers to about 6" in width on the Naiad frigate. If you look carefully at Sheet 2 of Ed's plan you will see this taper. The taper also extends down to the lower part of the knee. Ed also discusses this on page 71 (volume 1) "Tapering the Knee of the Head". In the second photo the red arrow points at the standard ("gammoning knee") which sits atop the knee of the head. Note that it is narrower then the stem and knee of the head. Ed mentions it briefly in volume 2, page 272.

 

It would difficult for most people to add this taper once the knee of the head is attached to the model but if you have already done so I believe your skillset will find a way to do this. Hope this has clarified things for you.

 

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Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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Greg, I finally understand what you're saying, and first of all, thank you so much for pointing that out. This is also the reason why I like MSW from the bottom of my heart, I have seen many masters including your excellent works and style of work, let me learn a lot of things, but also met many warm-hearted friends. Secondly, I have to admit that some mistakes are inevitable due to my lack of knowledge of the basic structure of ships and my language comprehension and reading difficulties. But it's also the process and opportunity for me to learn and improve. At present, the ribs have been laid to the seventh group, although it is more difficult to change, but I think it is also a test and an opportunity to improve my skills. I will do everything in my power to meet that standard. Thanks again for your detailed and patient answers!  

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On 7/17/2021 at 7:00 PM, druxey said:

Nice clean work. Don't forget the taper of the knee of the head!

After Greg made it clear that I was wrong, I realized how important your warning was. Because of my misunderstanding. . Now I have to find a way to change it .What a painful reality!😪

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The saddest thing for me was that while everyone else was making progress in post construction, I was regressing in reconstruction and failure. But I'm glad you guys supported it, especially Greg and Druxey for their timely comments! I learned something. It's been specially modified today. Also feel harmonious and much better-looking!

 

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Your work is immaculate. 👍

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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Well done! The forward edge of the knee is rounded off, so when at anchor the cable doesn't get damaged by rubbing against any sharp corners. See Greg's photos.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Bitao 

Not only are you doing better, your work is better than most and I believe a lot of it is due to the fact that you take advice very well and do not accept mediocrity.  

Allan

 

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Impressive!  Love the tooling.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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This build is a joy to follow!   I am watching your setups on the mill as I am in the very beginnings of learning how to make the most of using one.  In  addition your setups on the building board are well thought out.  Lots of gizmos that should be on my Christmas list!!!! 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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2 hours ago, allanyed said:

This build is a joy to follow!   I am watching your setups on the mill as I am in the very beginnings of learning how to make the most of using one.  In  addition your setups on the building board are well thought out.  Lots of gizmos that should be on my Christmas list!!!! 

Allan

Hello, Allan. The accurate positioning and stable clamping of the model are the key points. So I don't spend any less time making tools than I do making models. May you experience the joy of building!

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Just make sure that the upper ends of those counter timbers are well protected. Don't ask how I know this! 

 

Beautiful work, as usual..

Edited by druxey

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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I'm tired of sawing and sanding wood. I'll do some outfitting for a change. Start with the metal boiler. As long as the size of the parts and drawings accurately match, will not be affected by the hull deviation. The drawings are 1:36 and must be converted to 1:60(60% of the drawing size) before being made. In order to beautiful and firm, the main body using block copper milling processing, the basic use of riveting parts. The utility model avoids the unsightedness of the welding and the unsteadiness of the adhesive. The precision of machining is required higher.

 

 

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That's an excellent work!

Completed.... Charles W. Morgan,Sea Horse,USS Constitution,Virginia 1819,San Fransisco II, AL HMS Bounty 1:48

L'Herminione 1:96

Spanish Frigate,22 cannons 18th C. 1:35 scale.Scratch-built (Hull only)

Cutter Cheefull 1806 1:48 (with modifications)

 

Current Project: Orca (This is a 35" replica of the Orca boat from the movie Jaws)

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Beautiful work, and you work so quickly!

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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