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Flower Class Corvette by Yves Vidal - 1/48 - Bensworx Virtual Kit


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Posted (edited)

A quick update on the hull and decks: 

 

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Hull has been puttied and primed. There will be more sanding, before the first coat of paint.

 

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Also working on the printing of the deck sections. Following are a few excerpts from the instructions manual: 

 

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And the printed parts:  

 

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Yves

Edited by yvesvidal
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Posted (edited)

Looking fantastic!

 

That's so cool that you can fabricate the parts for the model like that.  Will be interesting to see what the modeling hobby looks like in 10 years.  My guess is that you might see a lot more people jumping into scratch building models of subjects like these.  Rather than have to cut and shape styrene or other materials, you can build them on CAD and send to the printer.  Cool stuff!

 

I have the Revell 1/72 kit in the stash, which is a pretty big hull.  How big is this going to be at 1/48?  Do you need a special sized printer to be able to print the larger pieces?

Edited by Landlubber Mike
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13 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

I have the Revell 1/72 kit in the stash, which is a pretty big hull.  How big is this going to be at 1/48?  Do you need a special sized printer to be able to print the larger pieces?

 

Thank you Mike for the compliments. Yes, this technology opens the door to incredible horizons and should allow us to embrace unusual and rare model, and build them in a fraction of the time it takes for traditional wood models. I also like the fact that you can re-print parts if you damage them or that you can build a flotilla of ships, once you have acquired the license for a specific model.

 

Also, and of prime importance is the cost. Once you have a printer of decent size (mine is 220 x 220 x 250 mm), you can apparently build model for a very low price. In this case, I have printed ALL the parts for the hull and decks, as well as a plethora of smaller parts and the engine room, with only two spools of filament !!! That amounts to about $45 plus the glue (You use a lot and that is why MEK is the way to go). In contrast, the small strip of wood that I am using for planking the decks, are costing me more than the filament spools !!! I suspect that this Corvette can be built with 4 spools of filament and perhaps less, if you are careful and use a filling ratio of 20%.

 

Another incredible feature of these 3D printed model is that you can change the scale of the model, before printing. For instance, I can increase the size of parts by two and turn it into a 1/24th scale or I can reduce them and build a 1/200 scale mini Corvette. You can do what you want....

 

Now, regarding your question about the size, it is large, massive and will be relatively heavy: So far 2 kilogrammes of plastic. To give you an idea, here are a couple of pictures from a Spanish modeler that builds these Corvettes on commission. The front model is the Matchbox/Revell in 1/72nd scale, and the model next to him is in 1/32th scale. The model I am building will be somewhat in between.

 

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1/32th makes for a giant model..... In 1/48th, the hull is 1.25 meter long.

 

Yves 

 

 

 

 

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So you just purchase the CAD plans from someone that has drawn them up, scale the parts up or down, and then print them out?  That's pretty neat.  Do they include plans for more complicated items like guns?  Sorry for all the questions, this is just really fascinating.

 

These flower class corvettes underwent various modifications, including a short versus a long forecastle, etc.  Do your plans allow you the flexibility to choose which particular type of corvette?

 

That 1/32 model is incredible.  Even at 1/48, yours is going to be a sizable model.  Looking forward to seeing what you do with it.  Are you going to open it up like that 1/32 model?

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Posted (edited)

Mike, 

 

You will find most answers to your questions in the previous posts. The license depicts a typical "Generic" Corvette (after retrofitting = long Forecastle). The designer also created another type of Corvette: The Castle Corvette (see picture below). No, I am not planning to show any inside. My goal is just to finish the hull.

 

castle.thumb.jpg.204c6e24f25bd64e7aeb54f06f242976.jpg

 

Yves

Edited by yvesvidal
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Just now, Landlubber Mike said:

So you just purchase the CAD plans from someone that has drawn them up, scale the parts up or down, and then print them out?  

 

 

It's not as simple as using a CAD plan. To be suitable for 3D printing, special attention is required to massage the CAD plan so it can "guide" the 3D printing process. The holy grail is learning to prepare your own 3D plans so that way you can model anything you wish, but man, that is an intimidating and long process learning to do it not to mention the cost of the drawing software. Purchasing a tried and proven plan such as Yves has done is the way to go, but there are a lot of CAD drawings out there not suitable at all for 3D printing. 

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I think it’s amazing. You have to be an artist to do the CAD regardless so you can’t just print it either.

. I think whilst it is an evolution of the hobby it does not change the skills required for the woodworking class or plastic kits. I’m really enjoying this build / Print! 

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More progress on the decks: 

 

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DSC05267.thumb.JPG.c3b78a75552bc9585d7d3038c1d922bb.JPG

 

I still have to raise and position Decks C, D-E (now glued together) in the hull. Deck F is the vertical wall of the engine room. The goal is to have a perfect fit for each of these decks, and be able to work on them as separate module, paint them independently and minimize the masking of such a large model.

 

Then it will be time to pull out the airbrush, with the large nozzle....

 

Yves

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Not much more to say than VERY IMPRESSIVE Yves

 

My only fear is that it looks like I will need to start learning this discipline as well as my youngest grandson, (14) has just informed us that he would like a printer for Christmas. That means that if I don't want it to be a complete waste of money I will need to learn as well. The concept both intrigues and frightens me at the same time. One of my fears is that you are doing such a phenomenal job that you are making it look too easy!

 

Looks like I will be finding out if I have even a portion of your ability in a few months when we start for better or worse here in my house.

 

I am finding your build both fascinating and intriguing. It also helps that it is of one of my favorite small military ships.  

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Yves

You are working masterfully on this.

I set up my newCreality printer and downloaded the Flower corvette files and so far have failed to print anything. Eight attempts failed to adhere to the bed and either created a ball of spaghetti as the filament detached or quickly deformed the hull section as part of the print moved on the bed. I have gone to using a brim around the part which may give me dimensional issues later but that has stuck to the bed at last but then nine hours into the print the filament snapped; looks like an air bubble in the filament. Attempt number ten is three hours in and we shall see what happens. 😄

Thanks for the inspiration to try this

Alan

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3 hours ago, lmagna said:

My only fear is that it looks like I will need to start learning this discipline as well as my youngest grandson, (14) has just informed us that he would like a printer for Christmas. That means that if I don't want it to be a complete waste of money I will need to learn as well. The concept both intrigues and frightens me at the same time. One of my fears is that you are doing such a phenomenal job that you are making it look too easy!

 

Looks like I will be finding out if I have even a portion of your ability in a few months when we start for better or worse here in my house.

 

You might as well jump in, Lou.  He'll probably be asking you for help with it (or not).  Besides, you might find it useful one of your builds.

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Oh I am almost certain that I will need to as much as possible, especially at first. That is the part that kind of frightens me. I really want him to be able to enjoy what interests him. I think it is far more desirable a pastime than their normal video games. If he gets good at it then it may also have employment potential down the road as well.

 

You are also right in that there a a number of "builds" I would like to do as well, but I'm a pretty old fossil and I have no idea if adding another set of skills is still possible for me.

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11 hours ago, king derelict said:

Yves

You are working masterfully on this.

I set up my newCreality printer and downloaded the Flower corvette files and so far have failed to print anything. Eight attempts failed to adhere to the bed and either created a ball of spaghetti as the filament detached or quickly deformed the hull section as part of the print moved on the bed. I have gone to using a brim around the part which may give me dimensional issues later but that has stuck to the bed at last but then nine hours into the print the filament snapped; looks like an air bubble in the filament. Attempt number ten is three hours in and we shall see what happens. 😄

Thanks for the inspiration to try this

Alan

 

Alan,

 

Please, do the following:

 

1-To prevent the spaghetti ball, I would look at the leveling of the glass bed. Again, use the small flyer (with a QR code printed on it) provided in the plastic bag with the documentation. Do that on all four corners, and make sure that there is a slight resistance when pulling on the sheet of paper. Once happy, go around all four corners one more time. And do it a third time....

 

2-Clean your glass bed with isopropyl alcohol. There may be finger grease on it and that will prevent adhesion of the PLA.

 

3-Make sure the bed is at 60 degrees and the nozzle at 200 C.

 

4-Use good quality and new filament. I am happy with Overture and the spool costs $23 from Amazon.

 

5-Unwind the spool slightly to help with the feeding of the PLA filament. During a long print, you may want to monitor the spool and make sure that the filament comes out freely, by spinning and unwinding the filament from time to time.

 

6-Watch Just-Vlad video again on how to set up your printer. 

 

7-Wait for the parts to cool down before attempting to remove it from the glass bed. In my case, large parts (i.e. decks) are so stuck, I just cannot remove them until it is perfectly cold.

 

Once you get the leveling right, there won't be any spaghetti balls. Also, for large parts. make sure you remove the cleaning track/string (on the left side) by pulling the string from the back of the printer, before it starts printing. You have to be quick but it helps.

 

Good luck.

 

Yves

 

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Posted (edited)

I am not sure how your printer feeds but I have the same issue.  I level the bed 3 times after it has been allowed to warm up and soak at temperature and noticed no matter what I do the centre is perfect and the corners are tight or the corners are perfect and the centre is loose (concaved glass?). And I clean it before every use.   I tried printing off centre.  Tried a brim. The only thing that consistantly works for me is a raft.

Also, occassionally I need to disassemble the feeder and clean the gear teeth as it gets clogged with filament and then starts skipping.

 

Edited by AON
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Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, king derelict said:

Yves

You are working masterfully on this.

I set up my newCreality printer and downloaded the Flower corvette files and so far have failed to print anything. Eight attempts failed to adhere to the bed and either created a ball of spaghetti as the filament detached or quickly deformed the hull section as part of the print moved on the bed. I have gone to using a brim around the part which may give me dimensional issues later but that has stuck to the bed at last but then nine hours into the print the filament snapped; looks like an air bubble in the filament. Attempt number ten is three hours in and we shall see what happens. 😄

Thanks for the inspiration to try this

Alan

 

Alan

 

Sounds like your extruder is too far away from the print bed. If too far away, the filament cools too quickly and does not adhere well to the bed. If it's too close, the extruder will push the filament on the bed.

 

PS: At one time, I had all kinds of problems with my project moving off the print bed and tried all sorts of things to correct the problem. Finally, I bought a print pad and that solved my adhere issue. The print pads are cheap and it's worth a try if you cannot get your issue sorted out. Printing directly on glass just did not work well for me.

Edited by CDW
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11 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

 

Alan,

 

Please, do the following:

 

1-To prevent the spaghetti ball, I would look at the leveling of the glass bed. Again, use the small flyer (with a QR code printed on it) provided in the plastic bag with the documentation. Do that on all four corners, and make sure that there is a slight resistance when pulling on the sheet of paper. Once happy, go around all four corners one more time. And do it a third time....

 

2-Clean your glass bed with isopropyl alcohol. There may be finger grease on it and that will prevent adhesion of the PLA.

 

3-Make sure the bed is at 60 degrees and the nozzle at 200 C.

 

4-Use good quality and new filament. I am happy with Overture and the spool costs $23 from Amazon.

 

5-Unwind the spool slightly to help with the feeding of the PLA filament. During a long print, you may want to monitor the spool and make sure that the filament comes out freely, by spinning and unwinding the filament from time to time.

 

6-Watch Just-Vlad video again on how to set up your printer. 

 

7-Wait for the parts to cool down before attempting to remove it from the glass bed. In my case, large parts (i.e. decks) are so stuck, I just cannot remove them until it is perfectly cold.

 

Once you get the leveling right, there won't be any spaghetti balls. Also, for large parts. make sure you remove the cleaning track/string (on the left side) by pulling the string from the back of the printer, before it starts printing. You have to be quick but it helps.

 

Good luck.

 

Yves

 

Hi Yves

Very many thanks for taking the time to respond so fully. I have been a keen follower of your posts so some of your suggestions have already been adopted.

 

1 - I'm levelling with a sheet of paper that is 0.004 inches thick. Today I used the sheet you recommended (0.0035 inches thick). I level between each attempt both hot and cold to get a light drag on the paper. I may try to use a 0.004 inch piece of shim stock as being less of a variable.

 

2 - I clean the bed between each attempt with alcohol and let it dry

 

3 - I actually increased the bed temperature to 65 and I let it soak for ten minutes after reaching preheat because I assume although the sensor may have reached temperature the glass is lagging

 

4 - I'm using grey Overture filament

 

5 - -I check the spool drag especially in the initial layers

 

6 - I stripped and rebuilt the printer using the tips in Vlads video

 

7 - sticking parts are not a problem 😄

 

I added a brim to the bow section of the hull and got a successful print.

 

1031393559_RIMG0392(1280x720).jpg.465eac10c0c8f2deeb22a44bb75cdd63.jpg

 

Using a brim on the remaining sections is a problem because of the size of the print. 

I have just abandoned the ninth attempt to print the second hull section. I am thinking of trying stick glue and a lower bed temperature, buying a new glass bed and nozzles from Creality.

 

Thanks again for your advice and my apologies for hijacking your thread. Its frustrating that your printing at a high success rate out of the box and I'm at about one in ten and dropping. As I said you have the masterful touch.

 

Alan

 

 

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11 hours ago, AON said:

I am not sure how your printer feeds but I have the same issue.  I level the bed 3 times after it has been allowed to warm up and soak at temperature and noticed no matter what I do the centre is perfect and the corners are tight or the corners are perfect and the centre is loose (concaved glass?). And I clean it before every use.   I tried printing off centre.  Tried a brim. The only thing that consistantly works for me is a raft.

Also, occassionally I need to disassemble the feeder and clean the gear teeth as it gets clogged with filament and then starts skipping.

 

Alan

I have the opposite problem. The centre is tight when the corners are set. 😄

Alan

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7 hours ago, CDW said:

 

Alan

 

Sounds like your extruder is too far away from the print bed. If too far away, the filament cools too quickly and does not adhere well to the bed. If it's too close, the extruder will push the filament on the bed.

 

PS: At one time, I had all kinds of problems with my project moving off the print bed and tried all sorts of things to correct the problem. Finally, I bought a print pad and that solved my adhere issue. The print pads are cheap and it's worth a try if you cannot get your issue sorted out. Printing directly on glass just did not work well for me.

Hi Craig

Many thanks for your advice. I'm levelling between attempts and trying it both hot and cold. I was initially aiming for a good level of friction between the paper and the nozzle but I was worrying I was too close and was bulldozing the filament off the plate. I have been aiming now for a light rub between the nozzle and paper. I think you are right about the cooling. Maybe the house temperature (76F) is too cold and I should try a print in the garage which is a balmy 85F. I have upped both the nozzle temperature and the bed temperature and dialed the print speed down for the first layers to try to avoid the nozzle dragging the plastic off the plate. A thought just occurred to me - could teh nozzle be partly clogged and the plastic is not extruding thickly enough

Thanks again and once again sorry Yves.

Alan

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4 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

 

Very nice results. One done, 8 more to go ..... 🙂

 

Yves

Thank you Yves

It is a continuing struggle. After fourteen abortive attempts to print the second hull section I added a small brim (there isn't enough space on the plate for a full one) and that is currently printing.

I hope to be able to continue this project although the success rate is making me think of just giving it up. I would like to understand why our results are so different with the same machines and same files.

I am thinking of starting my own build log to note the experiences of the "less gifted" to clear my rubbish from your build log if that is acceptable to everyone. If you have time I would very much welcome your input there because I have a lot to learn.

Before I go I have a couple of non machine questions about the files.

When I imported the Hull #2 stl file into Cura I got model error messages. Did you get the same thing and just ignore them or fix them somehow?

Your photo shows hull section 2 printing with a skirt I think. When I tried to do that it wouldn't slice the model; I assume because there wasn't enough room on the plate for the skirt? How did you do that?

Sorry for the detours to your log. I am solidly in awe of your progress.

Alan

 

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On 7/29/2021 at 9:55 AM, CDW said:

The holy grail is learning to prepare your own 3D plans so that way you can model anything you wish, but man, that is an intimidating and long process learning to do it not to mention the cost of the drawing software.

This is why during the time I need to devote to the Admiral, the snippits of time I have is devoted to learning Solidworks.... (exports directly to the needed STL files for 3D Printing) The things I want to build in the future will not be manufactured by model companies in my lifetime so going down this road is an eventuality for me.....

 

This is the future of Modeling wether we like it or not, I'm saying the tech is mature enough now, time to jump in with both feet.... Also whatever is designed, has a ready market for those that do not want to learn the design process..... Download and print..... can you imagine the range of subjects possible?

 

Very impressive Yves.... Very impressive.....

 

EG

 

Ps I've been in stealth mode following from the start, I would never miss something like this.... {chuckle}

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Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, king derelict said:

When I imported the Hull #2 stl file into Cura I got model error messages. Did you get the same thing and just ignore them or fix them somehow?

Your photo shows hull section 2 printing with a skirt I think. When I tried to do that it wouldn't slice the model; I assume because there wasn't enough room on the plate for the skirt? How did you do that?

Sorry for the detours to your log. I am solidly in awe of your progress.

Alan

 

Alan, I had no software issues importing whichever file. Note that I am using the CURA program that came with the Creality machine, not the base CURA that you can download for free: 

 

creality.jpg.c1f44fc45b0be2ce7dbe9c002a958069.jpg

 

Not sure if it makes any differences. Also, the Profile is set for ENDER-3, but I am sure you have that already.

 

Creality-2.jpg.4c6a08298da91ed7bb4e99b371c21453.jpg

 

Yves

Edited by yvesvidal
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