Flower-Class Corvette by Yves Vidal - FINISHED - 1/48 - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 3D printed

[CDW]

43 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

My problem now is how to create the markings on the Hull: "K166" and the measuring ladders at the stern and bow. Decals is not an option because the surface is not flat enough. Perhaps, masking or pre-cutting with a mask machine (unfortunately I do not own one). I am not feeling good enough to do it with my free hand.

Yves

I got so excited seeing your painted model I missed your question in my earlier post.

Write an email to Kenny Loup, gatorsmask@yahoo.com

Tell him what you are doing, then give him the size and font you want for your mask. Kenny specializes in painting masks and is the maker of Gators Grip acrylic glue.

[king derelict]

1 hour ago, yvesvidal said:

Posting some progress. The hull is almost completely painted. Everyone will have recognized the patterns of the HMCS Snowberry: 

 

 

When painting that large hull, you need to use a lot of paints. The black is an entire Tamiya Flat Black XF-1 can of 23 ml. An entire can of XF-2 white 23 ml went also into painting the white part. Blue is Tamiya Light Blue and green is a mix of XF-2 and XF-5 Green.

 

 

It is starting to come along and it is  nice to display some details on the decks.

 

 

My problem now is how to create the markings on the Hull: "K166" and the measuring ladders at the stern and bow. Decals is not an option because the surface is not flat enough. Perhaps, masking or pre-cutting with a mask machine (unfortunately I do not own one). I am not feeling good enough to do it with my free hand.

 

 

Nothing is glued yet. Just resting on the hull.

 

 

 

Yves

Yves

She is looking spectacular as the paint and details are added. Its an inspiration for me flailing around in the trenches.

Alan

[Egilman]

54 minutes ago, CDW said:

Kenny specializes in painting masks and is the maker of Gators Grip acrylic glue.

Kenny quit making masks over two years ago.... He still makes Gator's Grip glue though....

[CDW]

10 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Kenny quit making masks over two years ago.... He still makes Gator's Grip glue though....

He may have quit making them, but I bought masks from him in Feb 2020. Still have the email exchange.

[Egilman]

35 minutes ago, CDW said:

He may have quit making them, but I bought masks from him in Feb 2020. Still have the email exchange.

Yeah I know, when I talked to him about getting glue, I asked about masks for my Gwin build he told me all he is doing now is selling off the residuals left over... He may have changed his mind though it's been a while since I talked with him...

[CDW]

Just now, Egilman said:

Yeah I know, when I talked to him about getting glue, I asked about masks for my Gwin build he told me all he is doing now is selling off the residuals left over... He may have changed his mind though it's been a while since I talked with him...

 

 

I just completed an email exchange with Kenny and he still is making custom paint masks and water slide decals.

So...the suggestion I gave to Yves remains valid. Write Kenny and he can help you with a set of custom paint masks.

[Egilman]

42 minutes ago, CDW said:

 

 

I just completed an email exchange with Kenny and he still is making custom paint masks and water slide decals.

So...the suggestion I gave to Yves remains valid. Write Kenny and he can help you with a set of custom paint masks.

Cool! I'm glad he did change his mind, He makes a good product I would definitely second the motion to get masks from Kenny.... They ARE worth it....

[Haze Gray]

Quite a nice build and looks like a fun one at that!   On joining hull sections together I've had limited success with using a solvent based plastic welding agent.   I dropped one of my 3d printed ships (sections had been joined with a plastic welding agent) from a height of about 3ft on to a concrete floor and there was some separation but the weight of that ship was over 5kg empty (I use epoxy now by the way) but I doubt MEK joined hull sections of the 1/48 flower corvette will have issues (still best not to drop it!).   

 

There's a lot of things you can do with designing a boat for 3d printing, if you can imagine it, you can probably do it. 

[yvesvidal]

I agree with you: 3D printing material is very tough and the welding with MEK, may not withstand the impact of a 3 feet high fall. But then again, it is not really designed for that. I have used CA to position the hull sections and then MEK, which takes a long time and lots of liquid to insure a strong bond. So far, I am quite happy and hope to not drop it....

 

So, at this stage, we have finished the hull (still some details to paint) and all decks have been printed and positioned on top of the hull, with numerous strips for shimming and precise positioning.

 

 

I still have to print the propeller and assemble the rudder, to call it completed.

 

Yves

Edited August 6, 2021 by yvesvidal

[lmagna]

In regards to the above comments about 3D machines taking away from the "building" of models then you could say the same of people who use power saws or sanders or a lathe or milling machine as used by so many modelers on  this forum. At one point in time all of the functions were done by hand, now days most modelers would never even consider building ships without these "essential" tools. I look at the modern day laser cutter or 3D printer as just being another "Power tool" that will expedite the builder's abilities.

 

Case in point. This build by Yves is nothing short of fantastic, and I am truly envious of not only his apparent native ability to make use of the machine but the results as well. As an old time RC boater and one that has MANY hours on the water with the old Matchbox model, (That I thought was big back in the day)  Clearly one could do amazing things with a 1/48th scale version. But In order to carry even this ("kit?") to the next level then the hull would have top be smoothed and an attempt made to replicate the hull plates from the real ship. Yves, while I am certain is able to do this extra work has chosen not to. I am certain there are computer enhancements, machine refinements, and old style hands on work that could be used on this depending on what one would expect from the finished product, but the product so far is just been the making of a model much as one would with any other tool. The only "kit" aspect to it so far as I can see has been the using of someone else's developed plans for the print Vs. creating one's own. But even that has parallels in the more traditional modeling world and is still referred to as a scratch built model. 

Edited August 6, 2021 by lmagna

[Haze Gray]

The work you're doing on that ship really looks good yvesvidal.  What are you planning to do in terms of the portholes?  I think the corvette in this scale has a lot of freeboard but they could let in water in rough conditions. 

 

One thing that I haven't done enough testing on is heat susceptibility for painted 3d printed ships - the glass transition temperature (when it starts getting soft) for regular PLA is  ~between 55 to 60 °C  (essentially above 131f)  and for PLA+ 60 °C  ~140f....  I've had two bare hull sections (white PLA+) outside for 12 months and they are fine,  but I'm up in the pacific northwest and the sun is not that intense - what I worry about small thin/fragile gun barrels painted black and drooping when exposed to high ambient air temp and direct sunlight.  I don't think it's an issue in the northern latitudes - but I have to try out a few things and see how they do.    I would suspect that hull painted black, in the back seat of a parked car on a hot day with the sun hitting it for 6 hours will exhibit some effects from the heat. 

 

 

[yvesvidal]

For the portholes, I am going to try building the glass using that special chemical (name escapes me for now) from Microsol.

 

As far as the temperature goes, the model is static and will not sit in the back of a car, for hours in the sun.... But yes, you are right, PLA may start loosing its shape at temperatures where we would all be dead anyway (60 degrees is when the cells of your flesh turn like egg whites on a frying pan). So I am not too concerned.

 

Yves

[Haze Gray]

5 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

For the portholes, I am going to try building the glass using that special chemical (name escapes me for now) from Microsol.

 

 

Ah yes - MICRO KRISTAL KLEAR - I haven't tried that yet but now have some on order, it's water proof when dry so should be suitable for models that go on the water. 

[lmagna]

On 8/5/2021 at 3:13 PM, yvesvidal said:

My problem now is how to create the markings on the Hull: "K166" and the measuring ladders at the stern and bow. Decals is not an option because the surface is not flat enough. Perhaps, masking or pre-cutting with a mask machine (unfortunately I do not own one). I am not feeling good enough to do it with my free hand.

I don't know if it helps with the K166 part of your needs but this should take care of your draft marking needs on the bow and stern;

https://www.modelbouwshopnederland.nl/a-45148633/diepgangmarkering-imperial/diepgangmarkering-imperial-zwart-1-48/#description

 

They also have lettering that may be large enough but I believe it is a thicker vinyl and would be raised. Probably not what you are looking for.

Edited August 8, 2021 by lmagna

[yvesvidal]

A quick update on the portholes and hull. As mentioned before, when the hull is printed, the portholes are solid since the kit is created for RC usage and navigation. In my case, I drilled all the ports with a 4.5 mm bit. Now has come the time to fill them up. I am using an almost magical chemical, that has the capability to fill up a hole up to 6 mm diameter with a white goo that turns crystal clear after a few hours.

 

 

You also need a tooth pick and with a rotation of the hands, you create a ring of the goo, inside the portholes. Below you can see one that has dried and one porthole that was just filled up: 

 

Because the hull is very thick, I used a second application of that magic goo, after the first application dried. It filled up quite well the holes and looks a lot like the heavy glass used on the real ship.

 

 

Finally, for the decals, I went with one of the suggestions and printed the decals on thin paper sheets, carefully cut them, soaked them in PVA diluted with water and applied them carefully to the hull. A little sponging on top and voila.... It is not too bad overall.

 

Yves

Edited August 9, 2021 by yvesvidal

[AON]

Now I know how I might apply the name on the transom of my build (a few years from now).

Thanks!

[yvesvidal]

Quick update: the Hull is now finished !!! Portholes have been filed and markings added. I am just missing the measuring ladders and will probably go with the decals recommended by an earlier post.

 

 

 

I need to work on a display board, to present the model and protect it, at the same time.

 

Yves

[CDW]

I really like the texture and finish on your hull. It looks very much like a 1:1 hull. Excellent!

 

Oh, and by the way, the paper "decals" came out very nice as well.

Edited August 10, 2021 by CDW

[CDW]

Yves

 

Is everything provided in the shape files you purchased represented in the model, or is there more? I wonder if someone else will take up on the production of other components that will marry to this model? I can see where there could be interest in other details that are perhaps not included.

[yvesvidal]

11 minutes ago, CDW said:

Yves

Is everything provided in the shape files you purchased represented in the model, or is there more? I wonder if someone else will take up on the production of other components that will marry to this model? I can see where there could be interest in other details that are perhaps not included.

 

Craig,

 

No, only the major components are provided to give an overall appearance of Modified Flower Class Corvette. There is plenty of room for Photo Etched sets and finely detailed resin sets, especially at this large scale. The kit provides a foundation to build a decent model, but details are coming short, unfortunately. 

 

One of the things I do to add a few more details, is to resize certain "provided" components. Before slicing, you can increase or decrease the size and shape by playing on the 3 axis independently. I am also adding some details with styrene strips and tubes. When I see what is available for the Matchbox/Revell Corvette, it makes me drool with envy..... However, in that scale, you have to shop in different directions.

 

For instance, I am desperate about finding 20 mm high stanchions with two holes. If I was in Europe, Amati and Billing Boats offer these at a reasonable cost. In the US, I do not know where to go.....and I need a lot of them. HELP !!!!!

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

I really like the texture and finish on your hull. It looks very much like a 1:1 hull. Excellent!

The texture is perfect for people who like to build "distressed" models, as most Corvettes are usually represented. The material is perfect and very conducive to rusty streaks and other imperfections.

 

Yves

Edited August 10, 2021 by yvesvidal

[lmagna]

2 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

For instance, I am desperate about finding 20 mm high stanchions with two holes. If I was in Europe, Amati and Billing Boats offer these at a reasonable cost. In the US, I do not know where to go.....and I need a lot of them. HELP !!!!!

Here are a couple of choices:

https://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/cc66220-2-hole-brass-stanchion-20mm-(10).html

 

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=20mm stanchions&PN=Caldercraft-Model-Boat-Fittings-2-Hole-Brass-Rail-Stanchion-Ball-Type-20mm-C66220.html#SID=2482

 

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=20mm stanchions&PN=Caldercraft-Model-Boat-Fittings-2-Hole-Brass-Rail-Stanchion-Ball-Type-20mm-C66B0054.html#SID=2482

 

Ages Of Sail is of course a US company, but Cornwell is less expensive, (A little) and has a good reputation on their service to the US.

 

Hope that helps.

[yvesvidal]

Perfect, thank you Imagna.

 

Yves

[CDW]

3 hours ago, lmagna said:

Here are a couple of choices:

https://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/cc66220-2-hole-brass-stanchion-20mm-(10).html

 

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=20mm stanchions&PN=Caldercraft-Model-Boat-Fittings-2-Hole-Brass-Rail-Stanchion-Ball-Type-20mm-C66220.html#SID=2482

 

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=20mm stanchions&PN=Caldercraft-Model-Boat-Fittings-2-Hole-Brass-Rail-Stanchion-Ball-Type-20mm-C66B0054.html#SID=2482

 

Ages Of Sail is of course a US company, but Cornwell is less expensive, (A little) and has a good reputation on their service to the US.

 

Hope that helps.

I have bought items from Cornwall in the past and can report very good service at competitive prices. even when including the shipping from across the pond they were less expensive than Ages of Sail on model ship items I bought.

[Landlubber Mike]

I’ve had same experience as CDW - Cornwall is great.

 

[Veszett Roka]

Yves,

 

just out for interest, why aren't you simply print the stanchions? Also, will you weather the Snowberry? This is really impressive right now, I personally like a lot the wooden deck color on the foredeck. Great work.

[yvesvidal]

50 minutes ago, Veszett Roka said:

Yves,

just out for interest, why aren't you simply print the stanchions? Also, will you weather the Snowberry? This is really impressive right now, I personally like a lot the wooden deck color on the foredeck. Great work.

 

Veszett,

 

I do not believe you can easily print stanchions for multiple reasons: 

 

1-You have to design them as they are not provided in the kit. So, you need to go in Sketchup or Blender and create a stanchion model

2-Printing a small cylindrical shape is delicate and does not work very well, if you do not use support. 

3-The resiliency and solidity of the printed PLA is way too fragile and brittle for such small stanchions.

 

That is why I ordered some brass stanchions and I am waiting for them.

 

I am not planning to weather the Corvette. I really suck at weathering. Instead, I will be presenting a freshly painted and renovated ship.

Thank you for the compliments about the wooden deck. I like it a lot, too. It brings a nice contrast to this mountain of plastic/PLA.

 

Yves

Edited August 12, 2021 by yvesvidal

[lmagna]

I must admit that this last week I did order a set of stanchions for a project I have been trying to get ready by this weekend and ended up ordering from Ages Of Sail. I did it all on line and found it interesting that I never received an email confirmation of the purchase or a follow up email about shipping. The purchase did show up in my PayPal activity. 

 

That was Monday the 9th. Yesterday, on the 11th, I found an envelope in my mailbox with the stanchions! Two days shipping from from the San Francisco area of California to northern Washington a distance of almost 1000 miles. Other than the total lack of communication which was more surprising than anything else, the speed of delivery was impressive.  

[Veszett Roka]

12 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

 

Veszett,

 

I do not believe you can easily print stanchions for multiple reasons: 

 

1-You have to design them as they are not provided in the kit. So, you need to go in Sketchup or Blender and create a stanchion model

2-Printing a small cylindrical shape is delicate and does not work very well, if you do not use support. 

3-The resiliency and solidity of the printed PLA is way too fragile and brittle for such small stanchions.

 

That is why I ordered some brass stanchions and I am waiting for them.

 

I am not planning to weather the Corvette. I really suck at weathering. Instead, I will be presenting a freshly painted and renovated ship.

Thank you for the compliments about the wooden deck. I like it a lot, too. It brings a nice contrast to this mountain of plastic/PLA.

 

Yves

 

Thanks Yves,

 

i think the point -3- is the most important and the showstopper one. For -1- design, it is easy: a rod with 2 globes. For -2- if you print a couple of them  near to each other, like trees in the forest, they will support themselves. But yes, cannot work out the fragile material.

I have no any experience with 3D printing, so have no clue how rigid is the final product.

 

Well, if you check out my Pamir in the 'At a glance' topic, you'll se mine is mint too. I did weathering on my old models (especially the warships), but since i built the Vasa without weathering for obvious reasons, i fell in love with the clean look.

[captain_hook]

Wow, you have done a very nice paining job. Like the scheme of the Snowberry as well.