Old Collingwood Posted July 19, 2021 Share #1 Posted July 19, 2021 Got a surprise build I have just pulled the trigger on (it wont be started for some time though as I have my heart in my Waterloo build at the moment) When I was a youngster I visited my brother in London and he took me the the Natural History Museum, I was gob smacked to see not just the Huge skeleton of Diplodocus - but what made me stand there open mouthed was the skeleton of T Rex. I always wanted to do a skeleton model of T Rex but factors never allowed for this - till I found a monster of a skeleton kit on flea bay - couldn't help it the pull was too strong. The attraction of a skeleton over a flesh model is I have only known the skeleton and it represents what I saw in the flesh, same with the admiral she remembers seeing the same one. Its Three feet long by about Two feet tall. So this is the bad boy kit - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110629895158 OC. Keith Black, BLACK VIKING, Canute and 10 others 13 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thibaultron Posted July 20, 2021 Share #2 Posted July 20, 2021 I built a similar one. Use CA for the joints. The press fit joints between parts, are not strong enough to support the weight of the pieces, especially the skull. I tried Canopy Clue, the first time, but it failed after a few weeks. It makes a great model! Edwardkenway, Canute, Egilman and 3 others 6 Quote Ron Thibault Shipjack Carrie Price from Pyro kit, with upgraded detailing and history. Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share #3 Posted July 20, 2021 (edited) 27 minutes ago, thibaultron said: I built a similar one. Use CA for the joints. The press fit joints between parts, are not strong enough to support the weight of the pieces, especially the skull. I tried Canopy Clue, the first time, but it failed after a few weeks. It makes a great model! Thanks Ron, I am hoping to do a bit to it to kind of improve its look - make it more like the real skeleton - sharpen the teeth etc, also I wish to make it stand more head down with both legs bent further back (hope I will have the ability to do that, it comes with a base with feet impressions cast into it - again hope I can still us that or re invent another one where I will be able to attach the feet down to support it. Then of course will be the painting/weathering to get as close to a real dinosaur skeleton as possible. This kind of stance (its the actual one I saw as a kid in London - not my pic though) OC. Edited July 20, 2021 by Old Collingwood thibaultron, Egilman, Edwardkenway and 7 others 10 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thibaultron Posted July 20, 2021 Share #4 Posted July 20, 2021 I don't know how sharp the teeth are on your model, but T-Rex teeth close up were a blunt triangular cross section shape, with serrations on the edges. Designed to hold up to their massive bite, and bone crunching ability. More like a triangular punch. Look up pictures of them. Keith Black, popeye the sailor, mtaylor and 3 others 6 Quote Ron Thibault Shipjack Carrie Price from Pyro kit, with upgraded detailing and history. Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted July 20, 2021 Share #5 Posted July 20, 2021 3 hours ago, thibaultron said: I don't know how sharp the teeth are on your model, but T-Rex teeth close up were a blunt triangular cross section shape, with serrations on the edges. Designed to hold up to their massive bite, and bone crunching ability. More like a triangular punch. Look up pictures of them. Yeah, they were giant spikes, 3-5" long.... for ripping and tearing...... lmagna, Keith Black, popeye the sailor and 5 others 8 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted July 20, 2021 Share #6 Posted July 20, 2021 Looking forward to this, OC. As for the positioning, I'm thinking the museum did that because of the "low" ceiling. popeye the sailor, Keith Black, Canute and 5 others 8 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popeye the sailor Posted July 22, 2021 Share #7 Posted July 22, 2021 my grand kids would love to see this lmagna, Old Collingwood, mtaylor and 4 others 7 Quote I yam wot I yam! finished builds: Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build Billing T78 Norden in dry dock: Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20 Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400 Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted July 22, 2021 Share #8 Posted July 22, 2021 (edited) On 7/19/2021 at 8:28 PM, Old Collingwood said: also I wish to make it stand more head down with both legs bent further back (hope I will have the ability to do that, it comes with a base with feet impressions cast into it - again hope I can still us that or re invent another one where I will be able to attach the feet down to support it. Then of course will be the painting/weathering to get as close to a real dinosaur skeleton as possible. This kind of stance (its the actual one I saw as a kid in London - not my pic though) On 7/20/2021 at 2:55 PM, mtaylor said: As for the positioning, I'm thinking the museum did that because of the "low" ceiling. That's actually the current scientific thought on how they stood rather than the "erect" stance, (tail dragging the ground) they used to put them in..... The way they do it in the museum is to built a steel skeleton out of tube and bar stock and install the bones along the bars, one must remember they are petrified bone, with the weight of stone..... It has to be a pretty strongly engineered framework to hold that much tonnage of stone bones..... The one in your pic OC is in a walking stance, Most in museums are erected this way now and yes they walked on their toes, the long tail served to balance the weight of the head and neck..... If I had pulled the trigger on it I would have planned a stiff wire skeleton to mount the bones onto just the same way the museums do it in actual practice.... Then you could pose it anyway you like and it wouldn't be too delicate..... Another interesting project.... At 3 foot long it will be impressive.... Edited July 22, 2021 by Egilman mtaylor, popeye the sailor, Edwardkenway and 4 others 7 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted July 22, 2021 Author Share #9 Posted July 22, 2021 37 minutes ago, Egilman said: That's actually the current scientific thought on how they stood rather than the "erect" stance, (tail dragging the ground) they used to put them in..... The way they do it in the museum is to built a steel skeleton out of tube and bar stock and install the bones along the bars, one must remember they are petrified bone, with the weight of stone..... It has to be a pretty strongly engineered framework to hold that much tonnage of stone bones..... The one in your pic OC is in a walking stance, Most in museums are erected this way now and yes they walked on their toes, the long tail served to balance the weight of the head and neck..... If I had pulled the trigger on it I would have planned a stiff wire skeleton to mount the bones onto just the same way the museums do it in actual practice.... Then you could pose it anyway you like and it wouldn't be too delicate..... Another interesting project.... At 3 foot long it will be impressive.... You know brother - thats an Excellent idea, almost like my idea of strenthening my masts with wood dowels in my Peal build, If I got some rod that was bendable yet strong. OC. mtaylor, king derelict, lmagna and 5 others 8 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted October 23, 2022 Author Share #10 Posted October 23, 2022 Folks, I have been re - visiting and re-visiting this build before I even take it out the box, as I have been concerned about placing it when finished as it rather larger at nearly 90cm head to tail, I was going to put it ontop of my display case but without a cover it would end up being a dust magnet. But I think with some careful tail bending I might be able to place it in my display case. So I may start on this soon as a fresh build to give me a break from my Waterloo Dio. OC. thibaultron, mtaylor, Edwardkenway and 3 others 6 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thibaultron Posted October 23, 2022 Share #11 Posted October 23, 2022 Having built a similar model, use CA on the joints. The snap together sections are not tight enough to hold everything in position. I tried the white glue/canopy glue method, but that also failed. Egilman, Edwardkenway, popeye the sailor and 2 others 5 Quote Ron Thibault Shipjack Carrie Price from Pyro kit, with upgraded detailing and history. Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted October 23, 2022 Author Share #12 Posted October 23, 2022 5 minutes ago, thibaultron said: Having built a similar model, use CA on the joints. The snap together sections are not tight enough to hold everything in position. I tried the white glue/canopy glue method, but that also failed. Ron, would normal Revell plastic glue also work as I assumed it is a plastic kit? I may need to give the tail a good bend (possibly an S bend) to make it fit in my case. OC. Canute, Edwardkenway, thibaultron and 3 others 6 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted October 23, 2022 Share #13 Posted October 23, 2022 2 hours ago, Old Collingwood said: would normal Revell plastic glue also work as I assumed it is a plastic kit? As long as it is styrene plastic yes........ thibaultron, Canute, Edwardkenway and 3 others 6 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted October 23, 2022 Author Share #14 Posted October 23, 2022 Evening all, I started on this today, but I have already run into a couple of problems - the first problem was trying to bend the tail so it would fit inside my display case, the last sections of the tail are made in Three sections (already pre formed) they but together with Two internal rods, so I super glued the Three tail sections but trying to bend the sections just opens up the joins (I dont know what kind of plastic its made from but it feels very soft almost with a memory so it just bends back) so none of my glues will work. The main section has a metal rod running through the middle and the spine sections just drop onto this. The head is made of Two sections that have Two square pegs that fit together, trouble is there is twist when clicked together - so I decided it would be better to cut the lugs off sand flat then I tried to glue these together (No way) will it play ball and glue. So a re think - I could possibly drill through the jaws and try to fix Two screws from underneath (might work) then see if my plastic filler will work on the jaw joins, that leaves the issue of not being able to bend the tail. Who said modeling was easy. OC. GrandpaPhil, mtaylor, king derelict and 5 others 6 2 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thibaultron Posted October 23, 2022 Share #15 Posted October 23, 2022 My model was a soft plastic with a paint or rubber color coat, so regular plastic glue did not work. CA did. Try taking the rods out of the tail. mtaylor, Egilman, Edwardkenway and 2 others 5 Quote Ron Thibault Shipjack Carrie Price from Pyro kit, with upgraded detailing and history. Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted October 23, 2022 Author Share #16 Posted October 23, 2022 3 minutes ago, thibaultron said: My model was a soft plastic with a paint or rubber color coat, so regular plastic glue did not work. CA did. Try taking the rods out of the tail. Hi Ron, what I have been able to do is bend the main metal spine rod from just aft of the pelvis where the pelvis bone section will be fitted, the last tail section slots onto this, I have checked now and it will fit in my case on one of the shelves. Big test will be to see if I can join both jaws with a screw underneath both sides? OC. Canute, thibaultron, mtaylor and 3 others 6 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted October 23, 2022 Author Share #17 Posted October 23, 2022 I think the trouble with this "kit"? is that Its and educational thing designed to be snapped to gether, and not a scale model kit. OC. Canute, Egilman, king derelict and 4 others 7 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted October 24, 2022 Share #18 Posted October 24, 2022 The website for this kit says it is soft flexible PVC plastic, made to snap together as a schoolroom educational piece... (can't be having children around any real plastics or glues can we) So, the problem is it has a flexible nonstick surface, CA will not work neither will solvents... What you need is a flexible adhesive that sticks to that formulation of PVC... Something that works on vinyl is my thoughts... As far as using screws to affix the skull with the jaw? I would be afraid of stripping them out on the soft vinyl plastic... (pre-drilling would be a must) I would try metal pins into drilled holes, vinyl has a habit of expanding when drilled so make the holes a drag fit over the pins and cut them short enough to be buried in the pieces but long enough so friction holds them in place... The manufacturer says it is supposed to just snap together, but users report that it doesn't stay together after a small bit of usage.... (the pvc wears quickly) I have one coming, when it gets here I'll be able to discern more on how to fix the parts together... Interesting problem brother... Nice challenge... Canute, Jack12477, thibaultron and 4 others 7 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canute Posted October 24, 2022 Share #19 Posted October 24, 2022 Would an epoxy cement work? J-B Weld or similar? thibaultron, Old Collingwood, mtaylor and 4 others 7 Quote Ken Started: MS Bounty Longboat, On Hold: Heinkel USS Choctaw paper Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1 Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section Member Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share #20 Posted October 24, 2022 16 minutes ago, Egilman said: The website for this kit says it is soft flexible PVC plastic, made to snap together as a schoolroom educational piece... (can't be having children around any real plastics or glues can we) So, the problem is it has a flexible nonstick surface, CA will not work neither will solvents... What you need is a flexible adhesive that sticks to that formulation of PVC... Something that works on vinyl is my thoughts... As far as using screws to affix the skull with the jaw? I would be afraid of stripping them out on the soft vinyl plastic... (pre-drilling would be a must) I would try metal pins into drilled holes, vinyl has a habit of expanding when drilled so make the holes a drag fit over the pins and cut them short enough to be buried in the pieces but long enough so friction holds them in place... The manufacturer says it is supposed to just snap together, but users report that it doesn't stay together after a small bit of usage.... (the pvc wears quickly) I have one coming, when it gets here I'll be able to discern more on how to fix the parts together... Interesting problem brother... Nice challenge... Thank you kindly brother, will look forward to your build when it arrives. OC. mtaylor, Edwardkenway, popeye the sailor and 4 others 7 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share #21 Posted October 24, 2022 7 minutes ago, Canute said: Would an epoxy cement work? J-B Weld or similar? Thanks Ken, its new ground for me. OC. Jack12477, popeye the sailor, Egilman and 4 others 7 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted October 24, 2022 Share #22 Posted October 24, 2022 (edited) 24 minutes ago, Canute said: Would an epoxy cement work? J-B Weld or similar? 21 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said: Thank you kindly brother, will look forward to your build when it arrives. OC. I don't think epoxy would work as it is a solid which relies on surface adhesion/penetration for it's hold, Epoxy when cured is very hard and completely solid.... My suggestion would be HH-66 Vinyl Cement, the stuff used to glue/weld automotive pvc vinyls, it is also sold for the PVC vinyl pools as the glue for patching leaks.... Powerful stuff, it is a blend of MEK, Acetone and Toluene solvents so be sure to use it in a well ventilated area and away from open flames... Working time is 2-4 minutes but it says it creates a solid weld while the plastic remains flexible... This is what I would go to for bonding this stuff as my first guess... it should be available at any decent big box store as well as automotive supply houses.... It is NOT the same as PCV pipe glue from the plumbing section which is almost pure jellied MEK... Check out the pool shops they should know what glues PVC Vinyl and remains flexible.... Edited October 24, 2022 by Egilman king derelict, Edwardkenway, mtaylor and 3 others 6 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share #23 Posted October 24, 2022 9 minutes ago, Egilman said: I don't think epoxy would work as it is a solid which relies on surface adhesion/penetration for it's hold, Epoxy when cured is very hard and completely solid.... My suggestion would be HH-66 Vinyl Cement, the stuff used to glue/weld automotive pvc vinyls, it is also sold for the PVC vinyl pools as the glue for patching leaks.... Powerful stuff, it is a blend of MEK, Acetone and Toluene solvents so be sure to use it in a well ventilated area and away from open flames... Working time is 2-4 minutes but it says it creates a solid weld while the plastic remains flexible... This is what I would go to for bonding this stuff as my first guess... it should be available at any decent big box store as well as automotive supply houses.... It is NOT the same as PCV pipe glue from the plumbing section which is almost pure jellied MEK... Check out the pool shops they should know what glues PVC Vinyl and remains flexible.... I am going to have to try to use what I have around the house, looks like the only real major mend is the top to bottom jaws at the back near the throat, this is where perhaps a pilot hole drilled from underneath on both jaw bones, going up into the upper jaws, then a slightly wider start in the holes (to hide the screw heads) and Two slightly wider screws used to join the back of the jaws together. OC. thibaultron, Egilman, Jack12477 and 5 others 8 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted October 24, 2022 Share #24 Posted October 24, 2022 Very cool model OC. Looking forward to this one! Edwardkenway, popeye the sailor, Egilman and 4 others 7 Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share #25 Posted October 24, 2022 4 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said: Very cool model OC. Looking forward to this one! Thank you kindly Mike. welcome aboard my little prehistoric journey. OC. mtaylor, thibaultron, Canute and 5 others 8 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share #26 Posted October 24, 2022 Evening all, some quite good progress today - I concentrated on the head/jaws, firstly I made sure that the upper/lower joining areas was a flat as I could make them with my fine files, then I got my drill out and used my finger drill and ligned the upper/lower and drilled through (very slowly) with a 1.5mm then a 2mm, I also used my 5.5mm to counter sink the top to hide the screw head by counter sinking - so here goes I used my strongest screw driver and mananged to get a secure connection, all was needed was a bit of Vallejo putty - and set aside. Quite pleased with the result in an area I had little faith in fixing. Here's the pics - OC. Javlin, yvesvidal, mtaylor and 9 others 12 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJohnson Posted October 24, 2022 Share #27 Posted October 24, 2022 This looks fun! 😁 Canute, popeye the sailor, Edwardkenway and 3 others 6 Quote Andrew Current builds:- HM Cutter Trial - Vanguard models (1/64), HMAV Bounty - Caldercraft (1/64), Hawker-Typhoon-1b-"Car-Door" - Airfix (1/24) Completed (Ship):- "Nisha" - Vanguard Models (1/64), HMS Orestes (Mars) - Caldercraft (1/64), HM Cutter Sherbourne - Caldercraft (1/64), TSS Earnslaw - Paper Shipwright (1/250), Puffer "Starlight" - Paper Shipwright (1/250) Completed (Non-Ship):-Blackburn Buccaneer S.2C - Airfix (1/48), Bristol Beaufort - Airfix (1/72), Mosquito B.XVI - Airfix (1/72), , Sea-Harrier-FRS1 - Airfix (1/72), Grumman F6F-5 Hellcat - Airfix (1/24), De Havilland Chipmunk T.10 - Airfix (1/48), Flamborough Head Lighthouse - Paper Shipwright (1/250) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted October 24, 2022 Share #28 Posted October 24, 2022 Great recovery. Looks really good Alan popeye the sailor, thibaultron, Edwardkenway and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share #29 Posted October 24, 2022 15 minutes ago, AJohnson said: This looks fun! 😁 Thank you Andrew. OC. thibaultron, Egilman, Canute and 3 others 6 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share #30 Posted October 24, 2022 5 minutes ago, king derelict said: Great recovery. Looks really good Alan Thank you Alan. OC. thibaultron, Egilman, Canute and 4 others 7 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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