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HMS Sphinx 1775 by Glenn Shelton (glennard2523) - Vanguard Models - 1:64


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2 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

Sorry to hear about your troubles Glenn; that sounds quite disheartening but I'm glad that to see that you're using it as a learning experience (quite inspirational actually - I don't want to think of how I would deal with it 🙂).

I totally agree. 

 

regards

 

Malcolm 

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7 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

That sounds quite disheartening but I'm glad that to see that you're using it as a learning experience (quite inspirational actually - I don't want to think of how I would deal with it 🙂).

I am not disheartened, veey happy to continue the first kit to iron out my building bugs, and then to build better one.

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DECK ITEMS

CANNON ASSEMBLY

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 479 - 491

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Titebond original

Red Paint

Varnish

Tape

 

Gathering the materials required

366-372, PE-107, F-5 (Cannon), PE-81 (x7)

 

Assembly Process

There are 20 cannons to make. I have built one to make sure I can follow the build instructions correctly.

 

The wooden parts were removed from the sheet. I sanded a very slight chamfer to the wheel axles to make the fitting of the wheels a tad easier.

 

The wooden parts were then placed on tape to ensure they did not move when I applied a thin coat of varnish to seal the wood prior to painting.

 

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Once all the parts had been varnished the following items were paint red, with three very light coats:

 

a)    Carriage sides left and right

b)    Carriage front and rear axles

c)     Carriage quoin

 

The PE parts were cleaned in acetone and soapy water and then chemically blackened.

 

The carriage sides incorporate the cap squares, which is an innovative design idea and much very appreciated by me. The cap square section of the carriage sides have to be painted black. I taped the carriage sides prior to brushing on the black paint to get a clean finish.

 

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The front and rear axle was then glued to the left-hand carriage side and the cannon was inserted in the into the locating hole. Once I was happy with the alignment the right-hand carriage side was added.

 

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Next up was fitting the PE parts, starting with the cross bar and then the 7 x eyebolts. And this was followed by adding the quoin.

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The final assembly task was to add the 4 wheels. The wheels were rotated as they were pushed on the axles, so that the connecting tabs were at the bottom. I then applied a thin coat of varnish to the completed assembly, one down nineteen to go

 

The varnish has just been applied in the photo below, hence the wet shiny look

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Edited by glennard2523
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10 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Is there a reason not to remove the char from wheels?  To my eye, it gives the appearance of a cast iron band which wasn't used on ships.  

No reason at all and is more realistic, especially when looking at HMS Victory's cannons. I removed the char on my previous DOK build but thought some wheels become a bit less round after sanding. I noted James had left the char on his prototype build and thought it looked Ok. 

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3 minutes ago, Patrick Haw said:

Hello Glenn,

 

I just found your Sphinx build log and really enjoyed looking through it. I'm so sorry that it went a bit pear-shaped on you, but I'm sure you'll recover and end up with a beautiful model.

 

Patrick

I will continue with this build log as my prototype build. I am currently waiting for some blue paint as my current supply had dried out. 

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Thanks Glenn for doing the heavy lifting with this early build. I am sure many members will benefit and successfully negotiate the tricky stern area because of your build log.  I'll sure be careful when I get the Sphinx off the shelf.

 

regards

 

Malcolm    

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HULL WORK

PAINTING HULL

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 229 - 232

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Waterline marker

Wood filler

Sandpaper (110 and 400 grit)

Titebond original

Varnish

Tape

 

Gathering the materials required

No parts required

 

Assembly Process

After I had added the waterline I applied plenty of tape to the hull, replicating the picture shown on step 230 of the build manual.

 

Using the same Matt Super white paint as shown in the picture for step 231 in the build manual I sprayed a thin coat on the exposed hull. I then spent a lot of time sanding, then applying filler (diluted with water and titebond) to fill any dips and then sanding the filled area smooth. This process was repeated several times.

 

Once I was happy with how the hull was looking I removed the tape from the stem, keel and stern posts below the waterline. A thin coat of varnish was applied to the bare wood areas and the hull was then sprayed a couple more times with the matt super white paint. Due to the dust cloud in the shipyard during the process I did not risk taking pictures. OK I simply forgot to take some pictures😇.

 

As can be seen in the photo below I have actually done a bit more work which will be covered in my next post.

 

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2 hours ago, Malcolm Greig said:

Thanks Glenn for doing the heavy lifting with this early build. I am sure many members will benefit and successfully negotiate the tricky stern area because of your build log.  I'll sure be careful when I get the Sphinx off the shelf.

 

 

I'm sure someone already did the heavy lifting before the kit was released 😉😝

I did try to make you a manual that showed everything in the smallest detail. 

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3 minutes ago, James H said:

 

I'm sure someone already did the heavy lifting before the kit was released 😉😝

I did try to make you a manual that showed everything in the smallest detail. 

James indeed did the heavy lifting and producing a stunning model and brilliant manual

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HULL WORK

ADDING RAILS

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 233 - 249

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Waterline marker

Wood filler

Titebond original

Red, blue, and black paints

Varnish

Tape

 

Gathering the materials required

140, 141,142, 143, 144, 145, 146, 147, 148 (x4), 383 (x2)

 

Assembly Process

The two sheer and waist patterns had been soaked in hot water and then clamped to the hull and left to dry overnight.

 

I then moved on to painting the upper patterns red, blue and black as required. The various rail patterns were clamped in place to check the painting for the red and blue sections. In hindsight, and certainly when I get around to this stage on the next build, I will use some tape to get better lines as it looks a tad messy now. It can be tidied.

 

I brushed some glue on the back of the various rail patterns and fixed them to the hull, using clamps. Take great care with these patterns as they are very fragile.

 

The final task was to add the 4 side fender patterns and 2 chess tree patterns to the rails.

 

This picture show the rails dry fitted after the painting phase

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A close up of the messy stern area

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This dry fit of the rails photo shows my bad line painting, without tape.

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The rails have  been glued and clamped in the photo below

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The completed rails, noting I have not cut away the rails from the gun ports

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Bow area

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The stern area

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Midships with fenders and cross tree patterns fitted to the rails. Gun ports still need to be cleared of rail

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Another stern picture

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Edited by glennard2523
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