HM Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 by glbarlow - Vanguard Models

[bartley]

On 9/2/2021 at 8:29 AM, glbarlow said:

 

 

I’m not thrilled with the uneven color of the boxwood. I spent a lot of time sorting pieces to color match then the WOP found whole new colors to display.

 

 

I actually like the variation in colour.  I think it is closer to what real ships look like.  In my opinion, when the planking is uniform in colour I think it looks a bit "plastic"

 

John

[Blue Ensign]

A fine planking job you've done there Glenn, Boxwood is my preferred wood for ship models, even with a bit of shade variation.

 

B.E.

 

[glbarlow]

8 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Boxwood is my preferred wood

Thanks BE. I really like boxwood as well, I may be a little spoiled by the even warm tone of the Alaskan Yellow Cedar I used for Cheerful and will use again for Winchelsea. The batch of boxwood I have has a lot of variation, but since I’m painting the hull white I can do a little sorting. I also forgot the one dark strip at the top will be covered by the wale, which is why I put it there at the time🤪

[BobG]

3 hours ago, glbarlow said:

I really like boxwood as well, I may be a little spoiled by the even warm tone of the Alaskan Yellow Cedar I used for Cheerful and will use again for Winchelsea.

I really like the Alaskan Yellow Cedar as well. I've only worked with some small pieces of boxwood and it holds an edge very well. I think the color variation is rather attractive in your planking as a whole also. Have you decided to continue on with your Flirt build?

[glbarlow]

Yes, I’m finishing up the planking. I’m sure I’ll keep going past that. 

[glbarlow]

2nd Planking - Part 2

 

I thought I’d provide a bit more detail than just the one photo in the prior post regarding the second planking.

 

 

I’ve written about lining the hull earlier in this log and in my Cheerful build. I’m not sure how I ever planked a hull without doing this, along with hot iron plank bending. I proved the point to myself again with the starboard side of Flirt. I figured I only needed to line forward of midships and run full width planks to the stern. That sorta worked but as it turns out it gets narrow at the 2nd and 3rd to last bulkhead and then flares out at the sternpost, at least on my hull, so I ended up doing some patch work on the underside. That’s fine on a hull I’ll later paint white, not so fine on my next project. Winging it doesn’t work out well when you’re single planking an unpainted hull. So on the port I completely lined the hull as I should have in the first place - the run of the planks is better than the angle shown in this photo - I’ll show you from the side in a minute. While I realize I’m fully in broken record mode I encourage everyone to learn and take the time to follow this method, even if you want to nail and clamp with PVA and heaven forbid soak your planks, you still need to know the right plank widths. I probably still don’t do it as well as I should, but I feel better getting one gold star as a Lining Evangelist.

 

 

Lots of ways to achieve those plank widths, mine involve digital calipers (to transfer widths from the planking fan and tick strips to the wood) a scalpel and a metal rule. Mark the planks, lay the rule over the plank, and cut with the scalpel (or any #11 blade). I had a little difficulty keeping the rule from sliding off the boxwood during the cut. That may be because I was working with three fingers on the holding hand, having sliced my index finger when the wood slipped (sliced, not cut off, I’m fine thanks for asking 🙂 ). So the 1 KG weight came in handy to keep things were they were supposed to be.

 

 

Bevel or chamfer has come up a couple of times on other logs, with diagrams and everything. Personally I thought the terms were interchangeable but I guess technically they aren’t. I plan to keep using the word bevel because chamfer is just a weird word. So what do I do - really neither after I read the definitions. After I taper and before I bend I bevel. See, I used bevel, because that is a fun sentence. The objective is a tight fit between planks. With proper beveling, oops, I mean edge softening and plank bending at my bending station (I won’t repeat all that part) I can get a tight fit. I use one of my little home made sanding blocks with 150 grit and knock the corner off the top inside edge of each plank, only the top. How much - well its a feel thing. Basically I just round off the edge and that’s enough, on tighter bends I may need a little more. Almost always I need more at the twist of the plank at the stern. The thing is to not get carried away, which is why neither the strict definition of bevel or chamfer really applies. After these planks are glued down they will be sanded heavily - if too much of the edge is removed or there is too great an angle I’d sand right to the frame between every plank. So I think of it more as turning an edge to a curb, or a hard edge to a soft shoulder. Anyway that’s what I do. I never edge glue, doing what I described makes that very unnecessary, especially for us CA planking guys. I hope that helps those that have asked and got a laugh from those that didn’t - why did he write so much on that topic, because that’s what I do. 

 

 

I don’t have a second planking photo of this. For both the first and second planking I shape for the stern post as I go. Much easier to do it a couple of planks at a time than trying to figure out at the end which one plank is screwing up the fit. This, as we all know, is a task that seems should be simple, but making the post fit involves a lot of fiddling (I love that British word, perfect description).

 

 

So with all that I completed the second planking. I don’t use stealers, whether real ships used them or not I don’t like the look. But as I said the width got narrow then faired out at the post, stealer opportunity right- so what I did instead was grab a 6mm billet from my small boxwood stash and cut a plank at the same 1mm thickness as the 4mm planks from the kit and tapered it to fit from the stern post to about 3 bulkheads in. Some may call that a stealer, I call it planking with all the wood available to me including what wasn’t in the kit. It's all getting painted white so why bother…good question.

 

 

 

I know others have commented they like my zebra colored boxwood hull. I think it’s growing on me.

 

 

I think I have a nice run of planks at the stem, I later added a little watered down PVA and boxwood sawdust to fill the areas that needed it. In retrospect I should have followed the instructions and not added the stem when I did. That sucker is very fragile, I've broken it off twice. As a result it will be painted white below the water line and black above, my dreams of a natural stem faded away at the crack of the wood and the ensuing repair.

 

 

With the second planking complete I finished up the stern with my cerulean blue painted counter. There are three small laser cut trim pieces included in the kit, I’ll probably add the upper two later. I elected to use my new found (from Cheerful) scrapping skills and made a bolder trim piece to marry the transom to the counter. Not the best photo, it has more definition than what’s showing.

 

 

I now turn to laying the deck, I’ll pick it up from here next post.  As always thanks for the likes and especially the comments.

Edited September 9, 2021 by glbarlow

[Blue Ensign]

I would be a happy man to achieve that level of completed planking Glenn, very well done. 

 

B.E.

[Gregory]

I respect your decision to paint, but that wood looks fantastic..

[DelF]

Superb work and a very helpful description Glenn. As Gregory says, it’s your decision on painting, but it seems a shame to cover that beautiful wood. 
 

By the way, I wondered what camphor had to do with shaping planks until I realised you must still have autocorrect switched on 😂

[glbarlow]

3 hours ago, DelF said:

camphor

I like having misspelled words to keep you entertained 😂

Edited September 9, 2021 by glbarlow

[glbarlow]

9 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

that level of completed planking

Why thank you BE, I’m always an admirer of your work as well. 

[glbarlow]

4 hours ago, Gregory said:

decision to paint, but that wood looks fantastic..

Thank you. I may reconsider. It’s the stem that gives me pause, but then again gotta love the zebra look😀

[BobG]

10 hours ago, glbarlow said:

 

Bevel or chamfer has come up a couple of times on other logs, with diagrams and everything.

 

I won't camphor but I'll chamfer while you bevel, Glenn! 🤣

 

10 hours ago, glbarlow said:

I hope that helps those that have asked and got a laugh from those that didn’t - why did he write so much on that topic, because that’s what I do. 

 

Well, I for one appreciate your thorough explanation. Of course, I'm not one to mince words either and love to write as well!

 

Beautiful planking, by-the-way. The more I watch your build, the more I'm tempted to grab my Flirt off the shelf...or wait on the Sphinx....??

 

[glbarlow]

2 minutes ago, BobG said:

appreciate your thorough explanation.

I wrote it with you in mind Bob😊 All I can suggest is start building. Flirt will be a nice introduction to Sphinx. 

[EKE]

Outstanding job on the planking.  I'm finishing up the framing on my Flirt, and I hope I can come anywhere close to the lovely job you've done. 

 

Bravo!

[glbarlow]

 

Planking Continues

 

Work on the hull continues, not super exciting stuff but progress nonetheless.

 

 

 

With the  adjoining planking completed and after lots, and lots, of test fitting, adjustments, and sanding it was time to mount the stern post. This is something that seems so simple but getting a good fit takes time and patience along with a light touch with the sanding tools.

 

 

Time to break off those bulkhead tabs on the deck. I mentioned at the beginning I lightly score these with razor saw on two sides before planking begins. It isn’t completely necessary but helps for a cleaner break which I completed with small pliers. Then back to my ever handy and now always sharp Veritas mini-chisels for cleanup.

 

 

 

I committed to using @chris watton laser etched deck on this model and so I did. I’ve planked plenty of decks, this time I chose the nice maple deck Chris provides with the kit. I know all the debate about “real planking” and normally I agree, in this case though after 3 coats of WOP with light 400 grit sanding between I’m quite satisfied with the look. I think Chris heard us on earlier versions and made this one simpler without a lot of extra stuff, just planks in a proper shift pattern. I had to do some minor edge sanding for a fit, which is good, I’d rather it be slightly large than even a little bit too small.

 

 

Some white PVA glue, some clamps, some weights, deck complete. Note I’m a new advocate for @Delf Fineline applicators though I prefer the standard 18 gauge tip. I now have one for PVA and one for Super ‘Phatic glue. There is a rule of modeling, whenever you think you have enough clamps, buy more clamps.

 

 

One more advertisement for the Byrnes Sander. Shaping tight fits for the bulwarks planking is so much easier with the tilting table for various beveling (actual bevels, or maybe they’re chamfered who knows) and the miter gauge for angles.

 

 

Side note: The tilt table pin on my sander has always been a bit of a rough fit, I was changing it so often during the bulwark planking I said to myself, self you have a lathe, use it. So I put the pin in the lathe, grabbed a file and some sanding sticks and a few spins later I had a nice smooth easy to insert pin. Why did I wait so long to do this.

 

 

I pre-painted the bulwark planking. Turns out that was a silly thing to do other than for the bottom most plank. Once I finished it I ended up sanding most of it off and painting it again. There are no short cuts. I did want a “rougher” fit for these planks to show a little definition between them. Unlike my obsessive need for a smooth hull, I wanted the bulwark to stand proud here and there for affect.

 

 

Most know I’m a CA advocate, but as I noted in my Cheerful log I use the glue I think best for the job. I like all of them, Titebond, White PVA, CA and here I chose Super ‘Phatic for the bulwark planking along with lots and lots of clamps. It is quicker setting the PVA, but not so quick that I can’t make and adjustment or two before clamping it down.

 

I was concerned at one point about the holding power of 'Phatic when used ona cleat on Cheerful came loose with a rope attached, so I glued two pieces of wood together with each glue to see which was stronger or weaker. After letting them dry overnight I tried pulling each apart...and failed to do so on all of them short of splitting the wood itself. They all work fine.

 

For whatever reason on my model four of the included planks were not enough to cover the bulwarks, five would result in a narrow strip at the top once cut to meet the top edge. So out came the 6mm stock, it was a near perfect fit at the top as the fourth row and it happens to be a nice look.

 

 

 

Though not included with the kit or in the instructions I chose to add spirketting by rounding off a strip of 3mm strip and adding it to the base of the bulwark planking. I think it makes for a cleaner look mating the deck to the bulwarks. I could have also used a 4mm strip, but the 3mm fit cleanly beneath all the gun ports so I went with it. I did pass on also adding a strip for waterway, I thought that might push the small Flirt cannon back too far.

 

Chris' design includes drilled holes on the gunport pattern, so before put-on on the top rows on the outside and after the bulwarks are done I drilled all the gun tackle pin holes from the outside in...now that was handy...

 

 

 

 

 

With that the deck and bulwarks are complete. I really like my Crimson Red, don’t care how “accurate” it may be, it looks bright and sharp and will adorn the decks of the Winchelsea in the future. There are some light spots on the deck where I had to scrape off some careless paint brush strokes. The nice thing about having three coats of WOP is that’s what I’m scraping off, not the wood. It’s been since touched up again. You might note the pillars, beams, and openings below the main deck have all been painted red as well. I’m hoping I can leave a hatch or two open enough to get just a glimpse below, nothing elaborate, just a sense of dimension.

 

 

 

It is my opinion…this stern shot shows that the laser etched maple deck, while not true planking, is an excellent choice and looks quite nice installed. I recall how hard (and how proud) I worked on Cheerful’s intricate curved planking and finely cut margin planks. With all that’s now on that deck between furniture, guns, ropes I can barely see all that work. Of course “I know it’s there” is important and I wouldn’t do anything different on Cheerful but for this model and for those of us that may need a break from planking the etched maple deck @chris watton provides is an excellent choice, realistic enough to pass my muster.

 

 

With the deck and bulwarks finished I completed the hull planking above the wales. My next task is to touch up the gun ports, I wanted to have a dry coat of WOP on the hull first. Note the stern post and the strip for the false keel (I think that’s what its called) are in place. I did my best to match up the best strips of boxwood, the WOP though seems to find a whole other color in some of the strips. Though it seems no two planks are the same shade It’s still a nice warm look of and definitely has grown on me.

 

I plan to follow the paint scheme and hull ornamentation provided with the kit so this might be the last clean look at the hull I’ll have.

 

As always thank you for following the build and for your likes and comments. They are always appreciated.

[glbarlow]

On 9/9/2021 at 6:28 PM, EKE said:

come anywhere close to the lovely job you've done. 

Thank you for the comment. I'm sure you'll do great - hopefully you'll try the same Chuck plank bending method I employ - that and a good deal of patience are the keys to good planking (there are of course other worthy methods, this one works well for me).

[BobG]

Gorgeous, Glenn, no other way to describe it!

 

I'm loving the warm look of the boxwood with a few coats of WOP on it. I think it's going to be a tough decision to paint a large portion of the hull white since your planking is so beautiful.

 

I've been vacillating between starting to build the Flirt or wait a bit and get the Sphinx. My decision has now been made and I will be starting the Flirt when we get home from our week in San Francisco celebrating my 75th birthday and visiting our son. So I'll be swimming along in your wake pretty soon!

[Rustyj]

Hi Glenn,

 

I just found some time to catch up on your build and she's looking wonderful. I do so love boxwood and yours looks great.

[DelF]

More great work Glenn. I like what you’ve achieved with the laser etched deck and I’m tempted to follow your lead when I get to the same stage with the Duchess rather than planking my own as I did with Speedy. 
 

I’m interested in the soft sanders you’re using - would you recommend them for use on second planking?

 

Glad you’re getting on with the Fineline applicators.
 

Derek 

[glbarlow]

30 minutes ago, DelF said:

would you recommend them for use on second planking?

Thanks for the comments Derek, always appreciated.
 

Absolutely!  The assorted shapes and adhesive sandpaper in multiple grits are a game changer for me probably especially for the second planking. I just have to watch I don’t take too much. Very    easy to use and there is a shape for every curve. Highly recommend. 
 

The laser etched deck is fine for this model as I’d guess it is for the duchess. The maple has a nice color. 

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, Rustyj said:

found some time to catch up

Thanks Rusty, much appreciated. I’ll be a latecomer to the Winnie party after this one, back to yellow cedar. 

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, BobG said:

starting the Flirt

That’s great Bob. I’m sure you’ll enjoy building her. 

[glbarlow]

So, per the instructions the stem isn’t installed until after the planking is completed. 
 

 

I, as it turns out unfortunately, installed it much earlier than that. I actually had to in order to correct a slight warp in the frame, I needed the keel installed straight for planking, that part worked.
 

The stem however has broken off 4 times now. This last time I got serious about it, once again gluing it back on with Titebond and a tight clamping process, hopefully for the last time now that all planking is complete. 
 

Following the build order for this model probably a good idea. Modeling is as much overcoming problems as it is building. 

[DelF]

Good save (I hope!) 🤞

[Blue Ensign]

It has always felt alien to me fitting the stem and stern posts after planking,  but it seems to be the current trend with kits.

Hope the fix holds hard for you Glenn, but that is the beauty of working with wood there isn't much that can't be rectified.

 

Your hull is looking  great. 👍

 

B.E.

[KirbysLunchBox]

Please pardon the pun, but I have flirted with the idea of building this kit some time in the future. 🤣 You are really making a lovely build so far though!  I missed your cheerful build, but I plan to go back through it as well. Love your work!

[glbarlow]

49 minutes ago, KirbysLunchBox said:

Love your work!

Thank you, I appreciate the comment. 

[glbarlow]

On 9/17/2021 at 9:54 AM, Blue Ensign said:

there isn't much that can't be rectified.

sometimes fixing it is half the fun, I’ve exceeded my quota with this stem though. 
 

On 9/17/2021 at 9:46 AM, DelF said:

Good save (I hope!) 🤞

I hope too. And while I think I’ve fixed it, the stem will now be painted black above the waterline (and white below it)…. 

[niwotwill]

Great fix and wonderful picture. You can never have too many clamps, elastic bands, and initiative overcoming obstacles. Great job Glenn.