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Prinz Eugen 1942 by CDW - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1:700 Scale - PLASTIC


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  • 3 weeks later...

AA080D76-05D7-4431-BCDB-37AF9BC7C27C.thumb.jpeg.6a67e18fdc6fa16f1f4c27a85606b676.jpegThe next piece I was waiting on were the wooden deck stickers. Those finally arrived from Asia this week. I've been assembling all the little sub-structures that make up the overall superstructure of the Prinz Eugen. I have to say, this model's superstructure and decks will pose as significant a conundrum as I have dealt with before now. There are a LOT of tiny, individual deck pieces, and all the superstructure sub assemblies need to be painted before assembly so once the deck applications are in place, I can then assemble the sub assemblies on top of the deck/s. This becomes one of those kits where the sequence of assembly I choose or fail to choose will have an impact on the final appearance of the model. 

Edited by CDW
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Just now, king derelict said:

Some delicate stuff there

Look at the upper right hand corner of sheet D. There's a piece there that has some "hair-like" projections, and while handling the sheet, I almost broke those off. They certainly cannot stand another incident of bending and straightening due to clumsy handling. Building the anti aircraft weapons is going to be particularly tedious. 

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Think this is pushing it about as  far as possible  - almost like it requires  robots to assemble  these things   - or humans with incredible  skill and  rock solid surgeons hands.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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This is, to my mind, a further example of taking detail too far, especially in this scale where so many parts require almost super-human skills in just removing them from the sheet. Following my own less than satisfactory entry into PE at 1/700 scale, I shall now only deal with PE parts that:

a. represent a quantum leap in detail compared with the plastic part they are intended to replace

and more importantly:

b. I have a realistic chance of mastering without breakages and deformation.

With the Flyhawk kits the detail of the plastic parts is so good that I can do without much, if not most, of the PE parts but the Trumpeter kits in 1/700 are just not of the same high standard as Flyhawk offerings so I guess choosing which PE parts to tackle and which to ignore will prove not so easy.

Good luck and keep us updated on the progress.

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The voices of experience.

The PE is almost worth the money just to get the railings set but some of the railing parts themselves are no easy walk-in-the-park! I will add some stairways, assuming I can bend them satisfactorily, and anything else that 'makes sense'!

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The above superstructure piece will be representative of a number of such sub assemblies where some of the parts are dry fitted while the photo etch is securely glued in place. Once all the sub assemblies are ready, they will all be dry fitted together in one big superstructure, painted, disassembled, wood deck stickers added, then glued back together for final assembly and detailing.

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50 minutes ago, CDW said:

The above superstructure piece will be representative of a number of such sub assemblies where some of the parts are dry fitted while the photo etch is securely glued in place. Once all the sub assemblies are ready, they will all be dry fitted together in one big superstructure, painted, disassembled, wood deck stickers added, then glued back together for final assembly and detailing.

Craig

Thats very, very nice. Its definitely worth putting PE on something like that. The moulded detail would very be as good. Railings and girders really pop in PE.

Alan

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The handrails look to have been a challenge. Are they glued directly on to the superstructure or did you have to drill out holes for the mounts? The handrails on my U-Boot which are similar to those you have just added, required 0,3mm holes to be pre-drilled using a (PE!) template for each attachment point - I just said... "Nope. Pass!"

Great stuff and I love the way your progress is marching on, it helps me to understand some of the processes and decisions that need to be taken with regard to the sequence of superstructure build that I will be facing soon with 'Hood'.

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The gangways (not certain what they are called) that lead off each side of the superstructure are extremely thin. So much so, they will break apart without so much as a gentle bend which are necessary to complete construction. Even with great care, these could become a loss. Will certainly be lost if they are “bumped” during the final construction or painting stages.

 

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You've made a great job of all that PE Craig. I know just what you mean about some things being mega delicate, just waiting to be touched so they can bend or drop off. We need three pairs of eyes and very steady hands when handling these parts and also in-and-around them once fitted. Good luck, I'll be following your progress closely.

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2 hours ago, CDW said:

The gangways (not certain what they are called)

They are most commonly called Bridge Wings and are used when docking and other maneuvers where the Captain might want to see down the entire length of the ship.

 

In your case, if you somehow knock one or the other off, they can be glued in the more normal stowed position along side the bridge instead  of sticking out. 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Great work on a really nice subject Craig.  Fantastic!  Can't believe I missed this one.

 

I don't want to bring up too many things from prior posts, but:

 

1.  Some of the PE on my destroyer was so thin, you could breathe on it and it would bend.  I'd say just do the best you can.  If it works, great, if not, the detail is probably so small nobody will notice anyway.

 

2.  On the acrylic primers, I was just PM'ing with Craig the other day.  I was a big fan of Vallejo, and still am to some extent, but now that I've figured out airbrushing a little better, I think I'm going to be moving to paints/primers like Mr. Color/Mr Surfacer, Tamiya, etc.  At least for bigger areas.  I've gotten decent results thinning Vallejo a bit, but the annoying clogged airbrush gets frustrating.  It's almost like you need to shoot lacquer thinner through the airbrush at the end of the session to ensure you have removed the invisible sticky remnants.  I'm ok with the smells because I vent outside.  For things like cockpit interiors and other small details, I'll probably stick with Vallejo for ease of use.

 

 

 

 

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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2 hours ago, CDW said:

Thanks Alan, with this, I had to give it a rest for a while for the eyes to become uncrossed.

Hope your  Right to Left  or Left to Righ cross eyed soon  recovers,    other wise you will be  sticking bow pieces and the stern  wrong way round and vica versa.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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That's some pretty impressive PE work there Craig, no mean feat in1/700. You mentioned using acrylic adhesive on the hand rails so I'm assuming you use that for most or all PE attachment, am I right? I've never heard of acrylic adhesive, what brand are you using if may ask? With my usual luck it'll be a brand only available in the US!

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Just now, RogerF said:

That's some pretty impressive PE work there Craig, no mean feat in1/700. You mentioned using acrylic adhesive on the hand rails so I'm assuming you use that for most or all PE attachment, am I right? I've never heard of acrylic adhesive, what brand are you using if may ask? With my usual luck it'll be a brand only available in the US!

Thank you Roger. Yes, it is a USA manufactured glue called Gator Grip Gator’s Grip Hobby Glue – Gator's Model Studio (gatorsmodelstudio.com)

I use the Thin Blend type. It's possible that a shop in your country may carry this item in inventory. It is not an instant set. However, it usually holds the PE to the location placed by surface tension, then it sets up in minutes. I like it because it's easily cleaned up with water, can be diluted, and gives me the extra time I need to position the parts where I want them. But there are times when I want an instant set, then I use CA glue for that.

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39 minutes ago, CDW said:

Add some masts, radar arrays, build and detail some boats, then will be ready to do some painting.

 

67F76D0C-5F3A-4393-8B79-A251F7496CF8.thumb.jpeg.a251a729e114b418fdb359f78587d27b.jpeg9D181AA0-E855-4E50-9135-F243419973EB.thumb.jpeg.3ed9a1391eaea3e33b970e7af5c44ced.jpeg

Whats your work ethic  with the painting  -  assemble the sub assmblies  including the PE, then  spray primer then colour  then if  you are fitting them the wood decks?    just getting a flow for when I start my Hood.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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