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AMAPÁ 1907 by Ras Ambrioso - scale 1:64 - Brazilian Customs Cruiser

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Thanks Roger. I have had the similar problem with Elmer's. Two ways of fixing it: one is to close it right away and remove the drop of glue left on the tip. The other one, the most tedious, is to unscrew the cap from the bottle and rinse it with running water while working the cap up and down tripping the hardened glue  off.

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To those that follow me, the following advise on what not to do. Today I went to release the angles holding my frames in place and learned a couple of new lessons. First, I ran out of the metal pushpins and used some of the common office plastic headed ones. Well, the pins were pretty secure on the building board and, while using a plier to remove these plastic headed pins , the heads broke off. Then, after I successfully removed the angles, I found that the frames were firmly attached to the paper plans and not the half keel below. It seems that the glue I used, the Elmers school glue that comes in a stick, did not set on the half frame below. So I have to do the excercise again. This time I will follow the advise of Valerliy and use Titebond and a square to set my frames.

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Well, success. I followed Valerliy advise and used the Titebond and managed to install all the frames without any drama. The glue sets quickly but with enough time to check the squareness. The frames were positioned using both the frame station line and the waterlines. I have ordered cherry planks and tomorrow will set battens to delineate the belts. My intentions are to finish the hull with some overlaid plating. I will be trying different methods as described by members of this forum. Thanks for the help and encouragement.





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  • 3 weeks later...

I have been a little under the weather these last few days and have been unable to work on my favorite project. However, I had some pictures of my progress after following Valeriy's advise about the Titebond.




This  shows the beginning of the filling of the bow and stern sections




And here I added a vertical reinforcement to each frame just in case.




I have received the material (cherry) to make the planking strakes and hope to get started next Monday.


I had a lot of trouble gluing the paper to the wood. I used Loctite and a 3M sprays and they dried up in a couple of days. My last attempt was made with Elmer's contact cement and this seem to be holding up OK.

I would like to hear you opinions and preferences for this work of permanently gluing paper to wood.


I also want to welcome my new friend, Ton Kittichart from Thailand, who is planning to build Amapá's Thai cruiser the Suriya Monthon. 

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On 8/29/2021 at 5:32 PM, Ras Ambrioso said:

After using the Elmers spray adhesive I had a disaster as the glue came on too thick. I finally decided to use regular Elmer's school glue that is a paste and will be removable from the wood after cutting.


Ras - for future reference Pritt Stick works well and removal is easy. Interesting model which I will follow with interest.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After much thought, I have reached the conclusion that scratch building is hard. God bless those guys like Chuck  Passaro, that make the kits for us and foresee all the problems ahead. There is nothing like laser cut frames snapping into perfectly located slots into their proper place in the keel.  In this model, my first scratch build, I have made several mistakes that have made the fairing and planking of the hull more difficult.

I fabricated the frames using 1/8" basswood (first mistake: too thick) , cut them with a band saw and trimmed each in-pair (port and starboard) with a sander. So far so good. I had glued a paper copy of the ships profile to the keel piece and had both sides attached to the building board facing each other. Great! 

Then I used the wrong glue to stick the paper to the wood (second mistake)and then glued the frames to the paper that was glued to the keel piece  (third mistake). The next day, after the glue dried, the whole thing came apart. Darn!

Thanks to this forum comments, I finally arrived at the proper glue to use and did the fairing. After all these fiascos, started planking with mixed pluses and minuses.

This ship has a split deck with a lower deck in between and I decided to use a full sheet to plank this section as can be seen in the photo below. Good!




Started planking towards the keel using various techniques to bend the strakes. The most successful was the use  of water soaked wood and hot air blower. But I could not bend all the way at the rounded stern without a snap. Then, I remember something out of these forums and made a mold of the curve.
















More strakes on the stern




And then fourth mistake shows up. When I cut the frames I didn't subtracted the plank thickness and the results will be a ship with wider beam. Oh well ! This, also interfered with the propeller shaft extending  further back towards the propeller. I worked around the tunnel using smaller strakes working around the concave curves of propeller tunnel. Good!


This quarter of the planking effort has been a  real education and hope that most of these flaws will be corrected with miliput and wood filler. 


Did some experimentation with the idea of simulating the steel plated hull with shellacked paper and it seems like a possible alternative that may cover some of my indiscretions.


So, again, thanks for the inspiration and advise given in this forum.





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Thank you Valeriy. In looking back, I should have done that but, by the time I thought about it I had already sanded down to meet frame forcing me to carry the planking to the end. Like I said before, this is a living experience learning while we build. Always the next model will be better.

I probably have the to do the other stern the same way to keep the symmetry but I will definitely will do what you tell me in the bow area. Thanks again, you are not only a master craftsman but a great teacher.

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Just found your build Ras; a very interesting build subject.  You're making good progress with it and should look great when complete.  


I had to make the same pumps and suction plate for my build of HMCSS Victoria (1855), and used PE for the plates, but turned the pumps on my lathe - mine start at post #326 in my log 


Look forward to seeing your pumps.





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Well, now I made real progress. My grandfather used to tell me that if you are going to do something, do it right. In my career as a construction engineer I found that sometimes, to fix a problem, you will have to start over again. 

Valeriy suggested just to bring the planks to the last former and then add the filler for the bow and stern. So I followed his advise and dismantled my bow and stern and started again cutting out my newly finished round stern.




This allowed me to finish the starboard planking. Not as perfect as it should be but it will be improved with a lot of sanding and filling. The biggest problem is with the propeller shaft tunnel. I hope I can match a hull finish like  the one my friend from Turkey shown below 



This photo is from tozbeckler build: the Protected Cruiser Mecidiye.


The result of this exercise is that I learned a lot about bending planks.

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