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Hi, I am reasonably new to this hobby so have a question. I have completed two kits and two scratch builds. 

 

Kits all seem to rely on double skinning while a real New Bedford whale boat or Bounty launch would be built with a single layer. Is it simply too hard to build single layer? Any thoughts appreciated.

 

Mike

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A single layer of planking requires careful layout and fitting, while double planking covers a multitude of sins. It's easier to bend two layers of thin plank than a thicker one, until you get the hang of it. Actually, single planking is easier in my opinion because it's easier to clamp to the frames. Kit manufacturers opt for the double planking because it offers the less-experienced builder an easier go of it and because they can get away with less expensive wood for the first layer. Today's top quality models seem all to be single layer planking, sometimes with the planks laser-cut to save the builder having to spile their own planks. I think many modelers find their first single planked model marks the end of their double planking days. Other's mileage may vary, of course.

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Thank you for your comment. I have bought a New Bedford whale boat kit but not made it. Funny story...start of Covid last year I ordered it...12 months later they wrote to me and asked me if I still wanted it....They had my money so I said yes. 

 

But since then I think that the outside of the boat will look OK but the inside won't match so ... not sure about putting in the effort to build it. 

 

Hence my inquiry. 

 

Love your thoughts.

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It is my thought that double layer planking is used when the number of moulds is too few to allow a single layer of planking of any thickness to support a proper run without hollows.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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1 hour ago, Mike from Aus said:

But since then I think that the outside of the boat will look OK but the inside won't match

Which kit?

 

It might be an opportunity to add detail to the inside to sharpen your building skills...

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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Back in the day, Ship model kits were centered on machine carved solid wooden hulls; a technology invented over 100 years earlier to mass produce wooden gun stocks.  The model maker finish carved the hull, and added stempost, sternpost, keel, etc. In the hands of a skilled modelmaker excellent and accurate models could be produced from these kits.

 

In the 1970’s-1980’s these kits began to be displaced by European Plank on Bulkhead kits that claimed to allow models “to be built like the real ship,” even though with their widely spaced bulkheads  they had more in common with model aircraft.  Comparing the two types of kits, it’s easy to see why European kit manufacturers favored their system.  It cost them much less to provide and ship strip and sheet stock than large blocks of quality wood.  It is also possible that novice model makers found this form of construction less intimidating than finish carving a solid hull, until they began planking, but by that time they had already spent their money.

 

But now the kit manufacturers had another problem.  Bending strips of wood around a few widely spaced bulkheads would not necessarily provide a fair (smooth) hull, let alone one that faithfully represented the actual ship.  To overcome this problem, they adopted the Double Planking System.  By using this system, the builder has an opportunity to fair his hull before adding the second planking layer.  Just like the real thing?  Hardly!

 

If for some reason I was to build one of these kits, I’d add solid blocks between the bulkheads and properly fair the hull.  Then  I’d plank the hull with a single layer of quality planking.  But if I were going to go to this effort, I’d just rather build a model from scratch.

 

Roger

 

 

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Thank you all for really good input and history.

Current Projects:                                                                                          Completed Projects:

Phantom New York Pilot Boat - Model Shipways - 1:96                        Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack - Model Shipways - 1:24

                                                                                                                        18th Century Long Boat - Model Shipways - 1:48

                                                                                                                        Norwegian Sailing Pram - Model Shipways - 1:12

                                                                                                                        Lowell Grand Banks Dory - Model Shipways - 1:24

 

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12 minutes ago, wefalck said:

I am rather surprised to read about double-planking for a kit of an open boat. The rough first layer of planking would be very visible on the inside, doesn't make much sense.

Boats are relatively small.  They are uncomplicated.  A kit that uses short cut techniques and an inadequate mould structure is a red flag and indicates  a  poor quality kit.

Scratch building a boat for a kit model used to be a gateway and introduction to making the jump to scratch building. 

 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Mike,

 

There are several really good build logs for single plank on bulkhead or plank on frame available here for both the Winchelsea and the Medway Longboat from Syren - lots of tips, tricks, and “how to” posts. I’ve learned a lot, and have saved several permanent links to my tutorial folder. 
 

Cheers,

Don

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