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Phantom New York Pilot Boat by lraymo - Model Shipways - 1:96 scale


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I knew I'd have questions right away!  So the hull measures about 1/8" too long (as noted in the instructions).  But the instructions tell me to remove this extra 1/8" from the stern?  When I put it up against the templates, it looks like I should remove this extra wood from the KEEL, not the stern.

Is this correct?  Should i remove the excess from the KEEL, instead of the stern?   

523483030_trimkeelorstern_question2_1000.jpg.406c674add2501c2d9b3007f07d12c27.jpg

 

It seems reasonable to trim the KEEL to match the template.  But want to ask you all if this is correct?

2040933181_trimkeelorstern_question_1000.jpg.9082ab1d9b2effbb3c85c6c0b3ffe8fe.jpg

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@lraymo  Mine looked like yours, recommend that you butt the aft template to the keel to guide what has to be removed.  I had to sand the area at the top of the stern where it meets the transom first to guide what I removed from the aft end of the stern.

614898799_Pic6a.thumb.jpg.bef796d076f63c091f973cb77f0ef9c4.jpg

Then I reduced the aft to match the schematic.  Make sure you flatten the keel before you remove any other material from the hull.

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Lynn, I am glad to see you step up to a more difficult build.  You will do just fine, especially with all of the support that you will receive from the members here.  I tagged your title for your Phantom and I see that there are many excellent build logs for this kit.  It looks like Model Shipways has replaced the old instructions with a newer guide to building this model that was written by Chuck Passaro.  His guide is a big improvement over the old kit instructions.

 

I look forward to following your build.

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Following you over from your last build as well. I haven't built this kit but it seems most reasonable to follow the template.

 

I also wonder if you're being confused by terminology. The word "keel" refers specifically to the timber along the bottom of the vessel; it has no vertical component. The part that doesn't match your template runs along what would be the sternpost (if this were a framed model), the structural piece rising up from the keel toward the transom. See the first diagram here for a good illustration of what the framed pieces would look like in this area, if the terminology remains confusing.

 

So the directions do make sense in that you appear to need to remove material from the stern (not the keel), especially where the sternpost meets the transom (again thinking of where the real framing would be). 

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Thanks everyone, for all the information.  I see that I had completely forgotten terms I learned in the first two builds!  Of course, the instructions make much more sense, now that I know what they are talking about!  My bad... I'm going to go back and  relearn the terms before proceeding.  (Thanks for your patience with me!)   And Cathead, I totally agree with Keith, its an excellent diagram!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Very slow going, as I have too many other commitments going on!  but I am making some tiny progress.  Created a ship holder out of a trimmed down dish holder and some pipe insulation.  Also tried out my new dremel tool to shape some of the hull, sanded off too much and made some gouges, and filled in alot with wood putty.   Waiting for everything to dry so that I can sand it smooth, and probably will call it "good" since the overall shape looks ok to me.  Then I'll carve in the "step" mentioned on page 3.   (Can't believe I've only made it to page 3, but clearly this will keep me busy for weeks & months to come, so that's a good thing!)1325641259_shipholder_1000.jpg.8c3c62c128025818f3f57f2683ed6c1d.jpg

 

256416628_shipholder2_1000.jpg.9d1758344f7ef91a2cdfd27f70d26d6e.jpg

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43 minutes ago, lraymo said:

Created a ship holder out of a trimmed down dish holder

 Lynn, you know you've gone over to the dark side when you start cutting up the furniture to make stuff for your model. :) In all seriousness, the hull looks good. It's real easy to get carried away with a Dremel. You need to sneak up on the line, don't try to remove all the excess at once. 

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Creating my own tools... to draw the carving line for the step.  Using a very precise method of scotch tape and a pen, I was able to scribe a line 1/8" below the top of the bulwarks.  (I'm sure there are tools I could buy to accomplish this!)

Now  I'm off to begin carving (gulp!)

944728804_stepcarvingline1_1000.jpg.2f5618e0ef44479f952df66948e5b206.jpg

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Starting to carve the step.  Realizing I'm not very good at carving, but feeling ok about it, since I've never done this!  Just finished the initial pass on one side.  I can see there will be LOTS of sanding and touch-up to make this look ok, but at least I've started.  Much more work to do on the step, but for now, I'm off to play pickleball!

707284636_initialstepcarving-oneside_1000.jpg.d1b59ff4c526e165a176677e827b4459.jpg

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On 9/25/2021 at 1:31 PM, Cathead said:

Following you over from your last build as well. I haven't built this kit but it seems most reasonable to follow the template.

 

I also wonder if you're being confused by terminology. The word "keel" refers specifically to the timber along the bottom of the vessel; it has no vertical component. The part that doesn't match your template runs along what would be the sternpost (if this were a framed model), the structural piece rising up from the keel toward the transom. See the first diagram here for a good illustration of what the framed pieces would look like in this area, if the terminology remains confusing.

 

So the directions do make sense in that you appear to need to remove material from the stern (not the keel), especially where the sternpost meets the transom (again thinking of where the real framing would be). 

I remember building  this model back in the 1980s, having to remove from the stern and transom.  Low and behold, it worked! It became a fun build!

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 Lynn, those look too big for dressing that edge. Here is a photo of needle/jewelers files. They're small and don't have handles so you can get in close to the work.

 

image.png.1e70b15e50f9d50040c29fbe6a0aa4e3.png\

This is the link to the above for 5.5 inches in length and 2 cut (two rows of teeth) I've never ordered from these folks. 

 

https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=3437_3523_4475_4514_4839_4528&products_id=118929

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I haven't read Chuck's instructions, which may address this issue, but, just as a suggestion, you may want to consider now how you will be mounting the hull when the model is completed. If you are planning to mount it with a couple of lengths of brass rod or on turned stanchions, etc., you may want to drill the mounting holes in the bottom of the hull now before you thin the bulwarks. Drilling mounting holes is sort of "rough stuff" major surgery and it gets really difficult to do if there's anything breakable on the hull. Don't ask me how I know this! :D I can think of three times that I got ahead of myself and finished a model and then realized I hadn't drilled the mounting holes. I had to build custom-fit cradles to hold the models while I drilled up from the bottom with a jig to keep my drill bit plumb! :D 

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