molasses Posted May 18, 2014 Share #331 Posted May 18, 2014 (edited) I've fixed the missing pictures in that series of posts. Suggest you check other pages because there are missing pics on pages 16 through 19. Edited May 18, 2014 by DFellingham Quote Current Builds: ESMERALDA Chilean Navy School Ship, 1/640 in a bottle insanity Dan Clapp's hard water race boat in a bottle Completed Build: Prairie Schooner OGALLALA 1/96 in a bottle Research Project: Cruizer-class Brig-Sloops "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." - Benjamin Franklin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted May 18, 2014 Share #332 Posted May 18, 2014 Suggest you check other pages because there are missing pics on pages 16 through 19. The pics on page 10 are ok now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted May 18, 2014 Author Share #333 Posted May 18, 2014 Yeah haven't really had time to check all the other pages.....! Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted May 18, 2014 Author Share #334 Posted May 18, 2014 Updated! Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share #335 Posted May 20, 2014 (edited) Whoops! Wrong build log should be on the Ballahoo....I'll shift this post when I get back. UPDATE - post deleted and added to Ballahoo Edited May 24, 2014 by jim_smits egkb 1 Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted May 20, 2014 Share #336 Posted May 20, 2014 I like it Jim, think there is definitely evidence for the frapping, its a much more workmanlike solution than the coiled ropes which look nice but not very practical for a variety of reasons. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted May 23, 2014 Share #337 Posted May 23, 2014 Hi Jim as I see you have'nt used any cleat at the bowsprit as a guide to secure te gammoning of the main bowsprit. Did you encounter any problem in practise after that choise? My plan is to leave the bowsprit natural (uncoloured) so I'd like to avoid those wedge-shaped walnut guide-"stoppers" of the gammoning line, especially for aesthetical reasons. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share #338 Posted May 24, 2014 Hi Jim as I see you have'nt used any cleat at the bowsprit as a guide to secure te gammoning of the main bowsprit. Did you encounter any problem in practise after that choise? My plan is to leave the bowsprit natural (uncoloured) so I'd like to avoid those wedge-shaped walnut guide-"stoppers" of the gammoning line, especially for aesthetical reasons. Thanks. Hi mate, I actually went back and re-did my gammoning on the bowsprit and added in some cleats to aid the gammoning process. Looked fine as I painted but not sure how to achieve this on a wood finish. Jim drtrap 1 Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted September 3, 2014 Share #339 Posted September 3, 2014 ........................ Did a quick check of the mast orientation. There was a distinct lean to the right from the front view. Quickly sanded down the bottom and added a shim to straighten it out. All good! Hi Jim. At this step, you mean that you have sanded down a bit the hole of the deck from the side (right) of the mast tilt? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share #340 Posted September 3, 2014 Hi Stergios If I remember correctly I sanded the bottom of the mast itself and added a shim so that the very bottom of the mast is shifted to remove the slant. drtrap 1 Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted September 4, 2014 Share #341 Posted September 4, 2014 Hi Stergios If I remember correctly I sanded the bottom of the mast itself and added a shim so that the very bottom of the mast is shifted to remove the slant. Thank you Jim, I'll try this tip asap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share #342 Posted January 26, 2015 And back to the Snake build.....! Looking to get started on the spars but I have a question regarding using a hand drill as a lathe. I understand that obvious the drill itself must be braced in a jug of some type but I am unsure as to how brace the other end of a dowel to be turned. Any ideas? Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitzilla Posted January 27, 2015 Share #343 Posted January 27, 2015 I was actually just messing with this myself tonight. My solution was quick and dirty. I just drilled a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the dowel in a piece of scrap wood, and then clamped that. With the drill clamped in one jig, and the tip of the dowel resting in the hole of the clamped piece of scrap wood, it kept everything secure. You just need to make sure you account for the length of the tip of the dowel resting in the scrap-wood hole so your overall spar length is accurate. Once you get your spar down to the near finished proportions, you just have to cut off the bit from the tip and the end that was chucked in the drill and hand fiinish those sections. drtrap and jim_smits 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted January 27, 2015 Share #344 Posted January 27, 2015 I was actually just messing with this myself tonight. My solution was quick and dirty. I just drilled a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the dowel in a piece of scrap wood, and then clamped that. With the drill clamped in one jig, and the tip of the dowel resting in the hole of the clamped piece of scrap wood, it kept everything secure. You just need to make sure you account for the length of the tip of the dowel resting in the scrap-wood hole so your overall spar length is accurate. Once you get your spar down to the near finished proportions, you just have to cut off the bit from the tip and the end that was chucked in the drill and hand fiinish those sections. Hi Kevi, any related photos?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitzilla Posted January 27, 2015 Share #345 Posted January 27, 2015 Here's a quick one I just took. Fairly basic but it gets the job done. And since I'm just using scrap wood for the receiving hole, I can just drill new holes to accommodate larger or smaller spars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share #346 Posted January 27, 2015 Cheers Kevin! Low tech and dirty is always a good option. Also been investigating getting a scrap drill and extracting the chuck and bearing and mounting as the opposite end to the driving drill. Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cog Posted January 27, 2015 Share #347 Posted January 27, 2015 Jim, I made a DIY lathe kind a jigg from a drill and a drill head and lathe centre. In the image you see only the centre, but later I added the drill head so I could change the tool at the opposite side of the drill maybe something to use s reference material ... jim_smits 1 Quote Carl "Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson Search and you might find a log ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share #348 Posted January 27, 2015 Thanks Carl. I'm going to order a lathe centre from eBay and get some ply from B&Q and whip something together. I'll let you all know how I get on. Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyman Posted January 27, 2015 Share #349 Posted January 27, 2015 Hey, Jim! How do you find Caldercraft kit? I compared Flying Fish from Model Shipways and Supply Brig / HMS Jalouse from Caldercraft and have some doubts in Caldercraft's manufacture. Totaly love what MSW does, but Caldercaft looks a bit... cranky to me. What's your opinion? How good's your kit? Is it easy to build? Do part fit well? Just want some on-the-fly opinion :-) Quote Current builds: RMS Titanic's Lifeboat USS Constitution Cross-section Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share #350 Posted January 27, 2015 Hey, Jim! How do you find Caldercraft kit? I compared Flying Fish from Model Shipways and Supply Brig / HMS Jalouse from Caldercraft and have some doubts in Caldercraft's manufacture. Totaly love what MSW does, but Caldercaft looks a bit... cranky to me. What's your opinion? How good's your kit? Is it easy to build? Do part fit well? Just want some on-the-fly opinion :-) Hi I've found the kit itself to be pretty good although the main weakness are the plans and instructions as this seems to be an earlier model. That being said it's a good kit for what you pay and can be enhanced easily with some aftermarket upgrades like carronades, blocks and rigging thread. Ultimately your choice but I've been happy with Snake. Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share #351 Posted January 29, 2015 (edited) Jim, I made a DIY lathe kind a jigg from a drill and a drill head and lathe centre. In the image you see only the centre, but later I added the drill head so I could change the tool at the opposite side of the drill diy.lathe.012.jpg maybe something to use s reference material ... Carl, Couple of quick queries. 1) Presumably the lathe centre has inbuilt bearings and can be mounted directly into a block of wood? 2) For mounting a drill chuck, did you have to 'acquire' a separate bearing? (i guess a radial bearing is best in this case) Cheers Edited January 29, 2015 by jim_smits Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cog Posted January 29, 2015 Share #352 Posted January 29, 2015 Jim, 1/ The centre has built-in bearings, it is as we call it a self revolving centre. At first I only used the centre, but changed it later to a chuck for versatility. 2/ The drill chuck I mounted fixed, however, if you want it to rotate, you'll need a bearing, whichyou can take out of an old broken drill if you've got one of those ... and radial would do. It is only a spinning action it needs to perform and the pressure won't be more than the weight of the chuck and centre (or other insert) If you want more pictures, just ask ... Quote Carl "Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson Search and you might find a log ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share #353 Posted February 2, 2015 Ok. Made a good start on the large over the weekend. Went to B&Q and bought some timber and got the handsaw out and made some sawdust....! Base is done, together with the sliders for the end plate section. Initial brace for front drill is also done. just need to build up the support for the drill itself now and drill the hole in the end plate. Spare chuck has arrived and just waiting on a couple of radial bearings Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cog Posted February 2, 2015 Share #354 Posted February 2, 2015 Nice work! Your nearly good to go. Looking forward to the results. Get your chisels sharp Quote Carl "Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson Search and you might find a log ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share #355 Posted February 5, 2015 Got a chisel on order from eBay, should arrive by the weekend hopefully. egkb 1 Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cog Posted February 5, 2015 Share #356 Posted February 5, 2015 Excitement all over. You probably cannot wait to start! Quote Carl "Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson Search and you might find a log ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share #357 Posted February 8, 2015 Chisel arrived Friday. Gave it a sharpening using successive grade of sandpaper over a ceramic tile. Probably can get it sharper with more effort Think there will be a bit of a learning curve and I think trying to fabricate a tool rest will help. Did some test runs on 8mm dowel and it's tricky to say the least. Perhaps flexing of dowel under pressure doesn't help? Anyway, a little way off attempting my actual yards yet...... egkb 1 Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cog Posted February 9, 2015 Share #358 Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) I polished the edge of my chisels with a sharpening stone for skates ... It has two sides: One for sharpening and the other one very fine for polishing. Use the stone to sharpen my kitchen knives too ... Does that tell something about me ...??? I sharpen the chisels on a rotating sharpening stone (machine), and finish it off by hand. You have to watch out giving too much pressure on the wood, as you may end up with a wobbly yard in your case. The flexibility and thickness of the piece you are turning needs to be considered. The thinner the easier it will bend. You could tackle very thin pieces with sandpaper ... You just loop it around the wood ... N.b. A course grid will leave you with wounderful grooves Edited February 9, 2015 by cog jim_smits 1 Quote Carl "Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson Search and you might find a log ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share #359 Posted February 9, 2015 Cheers Carl, I think i'll try to do the ends with a chisel as there is more material to remove and they will be closer to the fixed points anyway and then fniish and polish with sand paper. Playing about with techniques at the moment before committing to actual pieces. Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cog Posted February 9, 2015 Share #360 Posted February 9, 2015 Righto, thought you would be. Thus gave my two cents ... jim_smits 1 Quote Carl "Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson Search and you might find a log ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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