HMS Leopard 1790 by Bluto - FINISHED - 1:80 - 50 gun ship - PoB

[Bluto 1790]

Tom ~ it's coming together . . . it's just that some of the 'bits' aren't as 'happy' as I would have liked them to be.

 

 ​I must admit that when I embarked on this build about 6 years ago I never really gave any consideration to moments such as I have recently encountered! ​I never really thought ahead about the time when I would have to be getting to grips with trying to make the carvings for the stern.

So, here I have arrived at that challenge, and I'm slightly surprised that it hasn't been just as scary as I imagined it would be.

 

Okay, they're not in the same league as the work I have seen on so many build logs here, but for my first attempt they're almost passable . . . at least from a couple of metres away.

 

My first attempt was with the two 'ladies' who occupy the opposing stern corners >>> 

 

​They're not true carvings in the sense that I didn't carve them out of wood.  I used air-drying modelling clay and molded them to the basic shape and tried to scribe such details as eyes, mouth, creases in their clothes etc.

I placed the ship 'nose-down' in a large box and supported it with some clothes so that the transom was more or less horizontal.  I pushed the moldings into their positions while trying to get them as close as possible to their final shape and left them undisturbed overnight to dry and harden.

Carefully prising them off their positions on the transom, it wasn't too difficult to trim them a little with a sharp craft blade.

I've already said that I don't want strong/garish colours, and while I had thought of something like a yellow ochre or pale gold colour, I eventually decided to use them in their 'out-of-the-pack' colour of white.  Some of the details are so minute that I felt that any addition of paint would probably obscure tiny eyes, mouths etc.

 

Here's another brutal close-up of all the 'major' carvings for the stern.  I've called these ones 'major'  as the carvings that go immediately above the five upper windows are truly tiny. (I really have no idea how I will tackle these, and am thinking I might make-do with what's already on the transom???) ​ There are still 2 'major' carvings to go at each corner below the quarterdeck level. >>>

 

​Over the last umpteen postings there have been nothing but these brutal close-ups that show up all the imperfections (and even worse things!), so, just for the fun of it I'm going to post a few photos showing 'the whole picture'. My original intention in building this was to end up with a ship that has the general appearance of a sailing ship, and when I look at it from a short distance I'm reasonably pleased with it - - - it's just the details that get to me!

​Okay, enough of the lamentations, here are a few pics >>>

Edited August 30, 2016 by Bluto 1790

[toms10]

Jim,

First time or not those came out pretty good.  I think the opposing ladies look great.   Make sure you are happy though otherwise every time you look at the model that is all you will see are the things you are not happy with.  Nobody else may see them but they will drive you nuts.  If they weren't too much trouble (I don't know, I haven't tried yet) make a couple more and chose the ones you like the best.  As for carvings in the "other league", it is something to strive for.   Right now I am playing in the recreation league not the pro-league and I am perfectly content if it stays that way.

 

I too am dreading the point when I have to make my first attempt at these carvings.  I am also going to take the same approach as you with regards to using a modelling clay and then paint the hardened finish product.  I found through some threads on this board that a product called "Sculpey" is popular.  It does not harden until you put it in an oven and bake it.  I will give it a try.  What is the worst that could happen, I don't like the way they came out and I end up making a second... or third.. or fourth... you get the idea.   I am thinking if I can only make them look good from several meters away, I will just set up those velvet ropes around the display so people can't get that close!.      

 

Tom

[Bluto 1790]

Tom,

 

I had also considered the 'oven bake' clay but eventually opted for the air dried version.

My main concern with the oven variety was that between molding the shape(s) and getting them into the oven that the shape(s) may have changed or distorted a little - - - and they wouldn't fit where they were meant to go after baking!

But I don't know if that would really happen as I haven't used it.

 

I'm really liking your idea of the velvet rope.  I'm now off to the rope shop and I think I'll go for the red one!

(All I need now is a museum-sized room in which to get it all set up!) 

 

[Bluto 1790]

I already said that I had no idea how I would tackle these minuscule moldings/carvings for the lower half of the upper transom.

​Some parts are less than 1mm/1/25th inch thick and I knew there was no way that I would be able to use the clay . . . so I cheated.

 

​I used white acrylic paint on black paper to simulate these carvings, cut the paper to shape and glued it onto the transom >>>

​

[Mirabell61]

Good work Jim,

 

you`ve sure been busy and the results look beautiful....

 

Nils

[toms10]

Jim,

As the saying goes, (at least here in the US), "There is more than one way to skin a cat."  I am not sure why anyone would want to skin a cat but you get the idea.     Problem solving and being able to come up with a multitude of solutions is part of what makes this hobby fun.  The results you are getting look good.  Keep on going and keep the pics coming.

Tom

[mtaylor]

Jim,

 

That's not cheating... paper is made from wood.  That's my story and I'm sticking with it.   The carvings are looking great.

[Bluto 1790]

​Thanks Nils, Tom and Mark for the comments, and thanks to the others for the 'likes'.

 

Jim,

 

That's not cheating... paper is made from wood.  That's my story and I'm sticking with it.   The carvings are looking great.

​

Mark ~ I'm not really averse to a little bit of cheating!

Although this is in the "Scratch Build" section there have been a few items that have been 'store-bought' and have been mixed in with the scratch built parts. I estimate that by the time I've finished (if that ever happens!) the scratch built content of the ship will probably be around 95%. 

[Bluto 1790]

It was about time I had a try at making hammock cranes.  There are about 55 cranes on Leopard and there are at least 10 different sizes in varying height & width combinations, so trying to use commercial items was out of the question.

Besides, none of the limited options available to buy 'over-the-counter' appealed as their quality and appearance didn't look too good.

I wasn't sure how I would go about making them as I have been unable to find any forum posts showing how other builders made theirs. (I'm sure such forum posts must exist -- I just haven't found any.)

So, this is what I did >>>

 

These are the first two cranes I attempted.  The tube I used was the smallest diameter brass tubing I could find -- 1mm (1/25 inch) outside diameter with an internal bore of around 0.5mm (1/50 inch). I wasn't sure how well that tubing would cope with being bent, but it holds up well even when bent tightly into right-angled 'corners'. The crane on the right was the first, and for the eyelets I used the small etched brass items shown on the R/H side of the photo. At first I opted to use these as I didn't think anything larger would fit inside the bore of the tubing -- but later found that the copper eyelets on the L/H side of the photo were a very snug fit . . . and I preferred the look of these better.

 

The cranes for the foredeck/forecastle are different to the cranes for the other areas of the ship as these cranes are fitted outboard of the topmost hull planks instead of being fitted down onto a rail, as are the other cranes.

So, instead of just being regular "U"-shaped cranes, these had to have a vertical 'leg' "welded" on. I've never done a lot of soldering and trying to get these tiny parts stuck together sure provided me with tons of "fun"!

 

Here's a foredeck crane >>> (with not the tidiest soldering)

 

 . . . and the 6 stbd foredeck cranes >>>

 

Then it was time for some garlic >>>

 

I had tried to make my own netting but the results were truly awful, and the netting in which these garlic bulbs are sold are about the closest I've seen to the scale I'm working at.  This netting, being made of some kind of plastic material isn't keen to hold any creases I try to put in it, but a few spots of white glue helps . . . 

 

[Louie da fly]

Very ingenious idea for the netting, Jim. I like it.

 

Steven

Edited September 24, 2016 by Louie da fly

[John Allen]

Caught up on your log,extremely neat & clean work, so good in fact you will not have to paint to cover up any imperfections.

 

I on the other hand am very happy they make paint!

[toms10]

Jim,

Fantastic work on the hammock cranes and netting.  And as an added bonus you won't have to worry about vampires with all that garlic.

Tom

[Bluto 1790]

Thanks Steven, John and Tom for the comments, and to the others for the likes.

John -- 'Imperfections' - there are plenty on this model, but I'm not going to list them for fear that even more people will spot them!

 

Tom -- funny you should mention the garlic Vs vampire thing --- since I"ve been doing these nettings there has been a noticeable reduction in the number of vampire sightings around here!

Edited September 26, 2016 by Bluto 1790

[Bluto 1790]

Hammock cranes: Phase 2.

 

While I'm deciding whether to fit the port side fore channel before or after the foredeck hammock cranes, I made a start on the starboard waist cranes.

While I had to fit the foredeck cranes individually, I was worried that I wouldn't make a very good job of fitting the others while trying to keep them all vertically parallel to each other as well as being equally spaced . . . so I decided I would try to fit the 7 waist cranes as a single unit by soldering them onto a base plate which could then be taken to the ship and fitted as one unit.

 

I cut a 5mm wide strip off a sheet of 0.005 inch (0.125mm) brass shim and soldered the cranes on to that >>>

 

​In that photo above, the soldering looks much worse than in reality. In any case, when blackened, the soldering is almost invisible and it will be completely hidden once the netting is fitted. >>>

 

​When I was soldering the 'legs' on to the foredeck cranes I found it very tricky trying to get these tiny parts stuck together (and not burn my fingers at the same time) so I made up a very simple clamping device.

​Getting these 7 cranes soldered vertically on to the base plate for the waist was also going to need some sort of jig. . . and that's what I came up with --- "some sort of a jig".

​From some scrap material, I concocted what must be the most crude jig ever seen by mankind! . . . but it worked perfectly.

Have a look . . . (please try not to laugh.) >>>

 

​In the photo above, the brass base strip is held securely against the fence, and down on to the melamine base by the sliding 'clamp' on the right.

 

In the next picture the crane is held vertically in the slot that is part of the fence, and is being held securely by the sliding wooden 'clamp' on the left.  This 'clamp' has a 1mm notch cut into the end that makes contact with the crane in order to prevent the crane from moving to the left or right.

​Once clamped like this I have 2 free hands with which to concentrate on soldering . . . as well as not burning my fingers! >>>

 

​This 'jig' (is it OK to call this thing a 'jig'?) will work for the other waist cranes as well as the cranes for the poop & Q/deck rails, but as the cranes aren't at 90 degrees to the poop side rails I'll have to adjust the vertical slot in the fence to being slightly off vertical . . . and I'll have to do that twice as each side is a mirror image of the other, so what works for starboard won't work for port.

[AON]

It is a jig!

very inventive and at no cost!!

[Louie da fly]

Sorry, Bluto, but I think my jig is much more crappy and amateurish. Works, though . . . 

[Bluto 1790]

Thanks for the comments, Alan and Steven, and to the others who clicked the 'like' button.

 

(Steven ~ I'm glad your jig works!)

 

Hammock cranes -- Part 3 - - - Poop deck starboard side.

 

Used the same jig as I did for the waist cranes but just had to fit another fence with a slot angled at around 87 degrees instead of the vertical slot. (Of course, just for added fun, none of the cranes here are the same dimensions as any of the others.) >>>

. . . with ropes fitted >>>

 

I made these cranes to the dimensions shown in the drawings and fitted them in the positions also shown in the drawings, but when I saw them on the ship I began to worry that the netting would interfere with the mizzen mast shrouds/lanyards. So I mocked-up a dummy mizzen mast, channel and shrouds to test if there would be any clearance between lanyards and hammock netting.  It looks like there should be about 1mm to 2mm space so hopefully no fouling between these items.

 

In the hope that there WILL be clearance later, I went ahead and fitted the netting >>>

 

Starboard side nettings all in place >>>

 

. . . hammock cranes/netting - - - just parts 4, 5, 6, 7 & 8 to go . . . . .

 

 

 

Edited October 4, 2016 by Bluto 1790

[Louie da fly]

Looking really good.

 

Steven

[Bluto 1790]

Thanks Steven.

 

Cranes; Phase 4.

 

With the previous cranes I have been able to glue and NAIL them on as there has been relatively substantial structure onto which to to nail them. (Either the hull side for the foredeck cranes, and down onto side rail/bulwarks for the waist and poop cranes.)

However, with the athwartship cranes for the poop rail and quarterdeck rail there is virtually nothing to which to nail anything . . . so, it's up to the epoxy resin to hold things together there.

As with the two previous sections of hammock cranes, these were soldered onto a brass strip and glued to the rail.  Here the brass meets the rail and spends the night in the clamps while the epoxy does its job >>>

 

The epoxy worked! >>>

 

Ropes fitted >>>

 

. . . and with garlic netting >>>

[toms10]

Jim,

Well done... looks good.  On to the next challenge!

Tom

[Louie da fly]

Beautiful work.

 

Still no problems with vampires?

 

Steven

[exwafoo]

Hi Jim,

 

I've only just found your build. I've had the book for a number of years, with the idea of scratch building it one day, probably when I retire in a couple of years.

 

I've really enjoyed reading the log and you have come up with a number of ways of getting things done to what I think is a really good standard. Its been a inspiration to me for the future. Love the netting.

 

I've found that when turning wood to small diameters, its a lot better to use small files or pieces of sandpaper with a supporting finger behind the work, instead of chisels. A bit of practice and small diameters are achievable.

 

As for using other materials, my daughter is studying special effects at university (she's going to get payed for doing what we do for fun) and their motto is 'take something cheap and nasty and make it look like the real expensive thing', so use what does the job.

 

I'm going to follow this one with interest.

 

Best

 

Alan

[Bluto 1790]

Beautiful work.

 

Still no problems with vampires?

 

Steven

 

Thanks to Tom, Steven and Alan for the comments and to all the others for the likes.

 

Steven ~ I find that munching on them little garlic cloves keeps the vampires away . . . it also keeps everyone else away!

 

Alan, when I first began this build I had virtually no experience in model building and really only had my own ideas of how I should go about it. Then, as I progressed I eventually found this forum and I've learned a huge amount from the fabulous builds recorded here.

When I first started I felt that there would be so many aspects of the build that would be far beyond my level of skill, and while my efforts aren't near the same league of so many builds on here, I've been surprised sometimes that I have been able to do certain tasks that I had earlier believed would have not been possible for me.

You mentioned the turning of small diameter spindles, and while I'm now past the point in the build at which I'll need these, I've since seen a couple of builders here who turn spindles inside a partially profiled metal tube in order to support the full length of the spindle as well as creating consistent replicas . . . and when I come to my next build (10 or 15 years from now!) I'll certainly be giving that a try.

 

Now, here's what I think - - - I think you shouldn't be waiting 2 years to start your build . . . I want to see your log on here soon!

[Bluto 1790]

It's over 10 weeks since I last posted some 'progress' and although I HAVE been busy on the ship, there isn't a lot to show for it.

 

​I finished the mizzen sheet bitts and pinrail (after a few 're-dos'!) >>>

 

​I had already fitted the starboard fore channel which I had made more than 3 years ago as a diversion from the tedium of the never-ending hull planking. When I made that channel I made it like this >>>

I made 'notches' for each of the deadeye strops then glued a thin strip of wood on to the outside edge (not shown in the photo above). That was long before I bought a milling machine, so with the channels I'm now making, I'm using the machine to mill a slot for each of the strops and now there is no need to glue anything on. >>>

 

The photo above shows both main channels. The lower one is a blank before milling and roughing to shape. I spot glued the paper plan as a guide to milling and rough cutting. The upper channel has been milled and is cut roughly to close to its' final shape. (The dark mark on the wood means nothing and just happened to be there - it won't be seen after the wood is blackened.)

 

The first channel I previously fitted was merely glued on, and while it has proved to be firm in its' position, I decided to give the others some extra grip. I drilled the channels and fitted 0.8mm brass wire. >>> 

 

 

The port side billboard >>>

 

 . . . and fitted along with the port fore channel. >>>

 

 

​When I fitted that channel I was still using the cut-out notches (for the strops) and I was also using store bought strops and chain links.  I'm not happy with this channel and right now it awaits being re-done with different chain links as well as different chainplates.

​First, the store bought strops don't work with the milled slots as their lower 'loops' aren't long enough to pick up the topmost chain link. (These strops only worked when I was able to fit the topmost link BEFORE fitting the deadeye/strop to the channel.) In any case, these strops had their opening right at the bottom of the lower 'loop' and I found a little difficulty in getting them to stay closed properly when a little pressure was put on them. So, with 0.5mm (1/50 inch) brass wire I decided to try to make my own strops with the opening in a different place >>>

 

​Likewise with the store bought chain links ~ their openings are also at the bottom (or top, depending on which way they're used), so I also tried to make my own with their opening at a different place >>>

 

​Here's the port main channel with the scratch made strops and chain links. It's not perfect but I'm happier with it than that fore channel >>>

 

​Now, why didn't anyone tell me what a frustrating and time-consuming job it would be to fit the channels ? !!!

 

​Still got both mizzen channels, the main and mizzen stool channels . . . and re-do the other stuff that needs re-doing . . . . .

[toms10]

Jim,

Nice job on the hammock cranes and channels.  She is really coming along nicely.  Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming.

Tom

[fmartins]

I just had the opportunity to read all of your build log. Congratulations on the ship and on your log. It's neat, clean and straight to the point. Hats off from a fellow beginner here...

[Bluto 1790]

Thanks for the comments, Tom and fmartins.

 

​Start made on the port side mizzen channel. Unlike the main and fore channels there are no plates that anchor the bottom chain of the chainplates, instead the bottom chain link is nailed directly to the hull.

​Here are the 7 lower chainlinks before soldering >>>

 

​ . . . and after soldering >>>

 

​I don't have much experience of soldering (as you've probably guessed!) and I find it difficult at this scale not to get too much solder on and a little bit of filing is required to knock off the lumpiness.

 

​The channel awaits its chains >>>

 

​While I've used the milling machine on a few wooden projects for the ship I've never used it on metal. So, today I had a attempt on a piece of brass. I find it's not possible to obtain brass in the dimensions I required from ANY craft or model shops I have tried (even Cornwall Model Boats don't stock it).

​I wanted something with a thickness of around 3mm and a width of at least 6mm to allow me to have a go at milling what I had in mind. I found a metal supplier on ebay and got what I wanted within 2 days.  I got a piece 12 ins X 1 in X 1/8in (300mm X 25mm X 3mm).

Now, I don't know the official name for the parts I want to mill, but hopefully someone may come up with the answer when one of the parts is seen.  They are brackets that attach to the main channel; the forward one has a hole in its outer end (in the pictures below) and the rear one has a "half-moon" shaped holding bracket at its outer end.

Here are a few pics of the forward bracket >>> 

 

​ . . . and with a dose of the black stuff (I've read posts by others who haven't had much success with blackening brass or copper, but I've always had excellent results with Carrs Metal Black for Brass -- it's equally good on copper as well.) >>>

 

 

 

 

 

[Bluto 1790]

The other 3 brackets >>>

​

 

Blackened >>>

 

Two fitted to the port main channel >>>

 

​Port mizzen channel  >>>

 

​With the exception of the stool channels, all port side channels in place >>>

 

Some 'fake' non-functioning gunport lid hinges have been attached for a very long time. It's about time to be getting the rest fitted. Had a go at fitting some opening ropes for the lids  >>>

 

 

 

 

 

 

[albert]

Very nice work.

[Bluto 1790]

Gunport lid hinges and opening/holding lines fitted on both sides as well as starboard mizzen channel >>>

 

 

 

That mizzen channel awaits its deadeyes and chainplates.

 

While it took about 2 minutes to make this posting, doing these hinges, lines and that one channel took the best part of 3 weeks.

Edited February 22, 2017 by Bluto 1790