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lb0190

Niagara by lb0190 - Model Shipways - 1/64 - Wood POB

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Welcome aboard Mainstay. You will find the members unselfish in sharing of skills, knowledge and encouragement. We're all interestd in see your build and progress.

 

Update on my build: very little to report at the moment. I completed:

  • planking the upper exterior transom planks
  • cut out the aft gunports
  • painted the transom planks black (still need a finsh coat)
  • dry fit and painted three of the green interior planks that fit around the aft gunports. I'll glue them in place once the paint dries.

Once the paint dries, I'll take some photos. I'll probably hold off posting until I fit a few more planks.

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Larry, I'm looking forward to seeing those pictures. Hopefully I will be sharing some in a couple of days as well.

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My progress has been pretty slow (not a complaint just an observation), but I'm getting to build areas I enjoy more than the initial framing. The photos below reflect what I mentioned in my previous post. I also brushed Titebond over the aft planks on the inner side as suggested by Brian. I was going to use Zpoxy but the Titebond was easier to deal with and more than adequate for a static model. After posting the pictures it looks like I should have dusted it off... :)

 

Still have more obvious work to do in this area, but I was getting withdrawal from not posting anything. I'll lightly brush on a finish coat of paint when this area is complete and it makes sense to do so.

 

Looks like we have an unplanned trip coming up next week, so the ship will sit for a while. We rec'ed an e-mail for a last minute cruise that was too good of a deal to pass up. We going to cruise the Panama Canal which is a bucket list item for us. So much history and engineering work that I find it worthwhile to visit at least one time.

 

Like always, thanks for looking and let me know if you have any suggestions on work completed or down the road...

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Edited by lb0190

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Thank you guys. I hope I can lay a few more planks before we leave.

 

We were lucky enough to have been aboard the New Jersey while it was still commissioned as well as the Missouri in Hawaii. They are awesome ships and it's a shame they are no longer in use.

 

Here is a You Tube link showing the New Jersey as it travels through the Canal.

 

I'll be looking fwd to seeing progress from all of the Niagara builders when we get back.

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Hi Larry,

 

Nice planks 

Did you paint that green on your self?

And a cruise…..

The only cruise we make is in the snow…..when we are falling  :(

Enjoy your cruise and make some pictures  :)

 

animaatjes-sjors-94584.gif

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I managed to get a little work completed between yesterday and today. The top green stern plank needs trimmed in, plus the aft gun ports still lack the vertical framing and red paint. We'll see how steady my hand is when I paint the gun ports.

The aft facing fwd stern view is a bit washed out from the flash and the camera angle does not show the windows shapes well, but I'll try to correct that on future shots. I also should have dusted it off before photographing, but I did not realize how much dust there was until I seen the photo results.

I tried something different than I originally planned in regard to installing the planks. For each plank I cut and trimmed in the plank. After the dry fit looked good, I sanded, applied primer, sanded the primer, dry trial fit again, trim if needed, paint, trial fit, trim if needed, then glued on the plank and then moved on to the next plank.

I'm on the fence in regard to using this sequence of steps for the entire ship. My thoughts were, maybe this method would keep the plank edges more visible if the planks were painted one at a time before gluing in place. I was afraid even if I use an airbrush to apply a paint after the planks were installed, the paint would fill and hide the plank edges. The risk is not getting the plank edges tight against each other.

Oh yes, the last photo is for you know who. The word on the street is, if he asks for sawdust, someone had better provide some...
 

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Edited by lb0190

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Since my last post, I added the three red transom planks with the square rudder shaft access hole. I also added the vertical side planks to the aft gun ports, which did not turn out very well. I did not find any kit wood that worked well, so I ended up taking an oversized piece of wood and filing down the thickness which turned out a bit inconsistent and a poor fit. I've since purchased wood that will work better, I just need to decide if I will replace the installed pieces (probably will and be much more satisfied with the results). I also started working on framing in the starboard gun ports and oar sweeps. As you can see I deviated from the plans a bit by running the top board all the way across the two timber-horns. I still need to sand this area a bit to make sure the cap-rail fits proper, but I'll wait until all of the gunports/sweeps are framed in first.

 

I need to start planning on where/how to install the deck supports for the coaming and other deck structures before I forget.

 

Progress remains slow, but so long as I'm taking more steps fwd than backward, I'm OK with the progress rate. It's a good thing the war of 1812 is over, because if they waited for me to finish the Niagara, the outcome may have been different... :o  

 

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Larry, I'm happy to see some progress on your Niagara. When I put the gunport trim in, I was using the extra wood I had leftover from my AL Bluenose 2. It was the second planking material and was super thin. If you've already ordered some material than it sounds like you have a plan. If not, then try some veneer material. Sadly, I'm a little short on what's left of what I used or I'd send you some.

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Larry- nice work! Yeah, the framing takes some time and isn't the prettiest job- that's why they're planked over! ;). A nice file should clean up the ports once ready. Also, remember to check the height of the gun ports versus the drawings and the bulkheads- I think mine were originally too short, so I added a strip of square stock on top to get me the height I needed (and provide some real structural support). Unfortunately I don't have any pics (was pre-MSW 1.0 for me).

 

But keep it coming- you're moving along great! (Framing stage is check, check, measure, check, check, then glue, check, check and sand/file, check!!). :)

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Larry, you could always try sanding to final shape, then sealing the basswood part and then sanding again. That should eliminate the fuzzy's and give you the sharp edges we all strive for. I discovered this trick myself (and it may have been widely known by everyone else) when I was working on some pieces for my ship's boats.

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Good morning Patrick,

 

Great minds think alike...  :dancetl6:   Your process is what I follow. If I miss a fuzzy or two it pretty easy to correct with an emery board before painting. The basswood sands and cuts easy which is nice for model ship building.

 

I seen somewhere on MSW, someone using emery boards and tried them out. I found a two sided box at Walmarts with one side a finer grit than the other. They have been a great tool for sanding parts. Cut them to a needed size, they last forever and they flex or bend a bit if needed. Emery boards have become my main sanding tool.   

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Hey Larry

 

I think that your boat is coming along nicely.  It is great to see the stern take shape and colour.  Your joint between the green transom planks and the red looks crisp and clean.  Your doing good work with that sprayer of yours!  As for sanding, I couldn't agree any more with you about the emery sticks they are invaluable.  One trick I think that I tried recently that I found also worked well was to use a prepaid  plastic card that was of coarse used up already, mine is iTunes, cut them into emery board like shapes and glue what ever grit sand paper on to it.  I used this while fairing the hull, deck, and rails and seems to have worked out really well.

 

Happy modelling

 

Brian 

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Hi Brian,

 

Thank you for the compliment and for the advice. The credit card idea sounds very useful and I'll add it to the tool box. I need to figure out how I'm going to sand the inside edges of the oar sweeps once the planls are in place. If a trimmed emery boad does not work well, I'll try your credit card idea.

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This past week, I worked on framing in the starboard gun and sweep ports. In photograph 1602 you can see how I used a jig to determine where to place the gunport framework. I used the same technique for the sweep ports. As usual there is more sanding to do but this seemed like a good time to take some photos. You may be able to see remnants of sawdust which I left in the photos just for our friend Sjors...  :dancetl6: 

 

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Thanks for the pictures Larry  :D

 

I only see one thing…….on pic. 4 and 5 your deck beam a is a little oversize?

For the rest it's looking great!

 

animaatjes-sjors-94584.gif

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Larry its great to see the gun ports and sweep ports taking shape. I like you "over sized beam" idea. Thanks for the pic's, they shall help to inspire me to finish my gun ports and sweep ports soon.

 

Brian

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Nice pictures of progress Larry. Sjors doesn't realize that's why the Lake Erie ships were so tough, LOL. In all seriousness, the gunports and sweep ports look  great!

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Thank you gentlemen.

 

After I whittle down that massive mid ship beam :P , I still need to lower the aft most horizontal beam. I placed the beam on top of a structure instead of attaching it to the side wall, an easy fix that was not apparent to me until now. I may also have to work on the height of the timberhorns as mentioned by Rich in an earlier post.

 

I have an idea I would appreciate your feedback on. I'm considering planking the starboard side (planksheer level and up) before framing in the port side. My reasoning is, maybe the planking will reveal issues I'm not currently aware of that can be avoided or corrected before framing in the gun/sweep ports on the port side. I cannot think of any issues it may cause by jumping ahead, but your thoughts would be appreciated.

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Hi Larry

I dont think it makes much difference whether you start inside or outside, port or starboard.

I would probably start on the inside.

Also dont forget to put in the extra supports for the deck fittings . Then you can plank the deck as well

 

Regards

Ken

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Thanks Ken. I did not think it would be a big deal but it's always reassuring to hear opinions from others, especially when they have so much more experience than me.

 

I sidetracked today, while I think about/research how to plank around the gun/sweep ports. I want to install the deck endplank which will be stained to match the deck. Of course I have not purchased the stain or even decided on which stain to use so I looked at a lot of MSW posts and decided minwax golden oak will work for me. I may end up diluting it to get a lighter shade (Thanks Augie). I'll also use minwax prestain in effort to get a more uniform color. I'm currently making up a deck test sample. I used a pencil to color on one side of each plank so I can also see how that will work. I do not know what type lead I used, but I'll call it Stonecreek Golf Course #1 since that is where the pencil came from   :D    I'll post the results as soon as I have samples to review.

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Good morning Popeye and David,

 

I purchase a can of Minwax golden oak and made a few samples to look at. I decided to dilute the stain to lighten it up a bit and have since stained and installed the deck endplank.  The pencil worked well for showing simulated caulking. Four hours of work and one plank installed. Good thing I'm retired or this ship would never get launched...  :10_1_10:

 

Question

 

What type of protective finish do you apply to stained deck planks and when in the build do you apply it? I have dullcoat, minwax wipe on poly and Model Expo satin finish on the shelf but not sure which to use.

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That looks great Larry. The red and green help set off the color of the planking nicely. I don't have any perfect ideas about sealer though. I've used satin clear coat in the past and have had good results.

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