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I use rubber cement.  Just don't leave it on the wood for more than a week or so. 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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No more so than rubber cement. I never leave any paper templates on a part of my ship models more than a few hours.

 

Current Build: Fair American - Model Shipways

Awaiting Parts - Rattlesnake

On the Shelf - English Pinnace

                        18Th Century Longboat

 

I stand firmly against piracy!

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I have had excellent results using rubber cement.  I use a high quality brand - BestTest.  I apply a healthy coat to both surfaces - let it dry for ~15 min - then apply.  This is an instant grab- no adjustment version.  It will hold for a long time.  It just takes rubbing with your thumb to completely remove it.   I have a bottle of n-heptane - the solvent.   adding it to the cement bottle when it gets too thick to brush easily.

 

Plain paper can be a bit of work to get started to curl up - it will tear - the edge is a challenge to get under.  To make my patterns easier to remove, mostly immune from the effects of humidity, and protected from dirt and smudges - I brush a thick layer of brushing lacquer on the sheets. 

The solvent is fierce enough when brushed outside, I would never consider any spray version.  I overlap all four edges with 1/4" crepe masking tape because if the lacquer sneaks under the pattern and dries the patterns stick to the butcher paper they are taped onto.

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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I print on label paper so I have no need to glue the drawing onto wood.  Just peel of the backing and stick on the wood.  Paper that is wet with glue can stretch and kink at times whereas label paper is much easier to work.

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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