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HM Naval Cutter Alert by mtbediz - FINISHED - 1:36 Scale


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Hello guys, I just finished Essex. I couldn't share the finished version because I haven't photographed it yet. I will share as soon as possible.

I have started my new project, HM Cutter Alert 1777. I used Vanguard's kit plan for cutting the bulkhead former and bulkheads. Since I chose a slightly larger scale (1:36), I cut the bulkhead former and bulkheads out of 6 mm plywood accordingly. As such, because of relatively stronger structure I eliminated the bulkheads securing patterns and lower deck pattern in the plan so the cutting work was considerably reduced.

Since I will make the rabbet where the ends of the planks will enter in the bow part with my own method I cut the bulkhead former accordingly. I made the bulkhead former in 2 pieces in case it was warped because it was a little long.

I cut the deck from 2 mm of plywood and glued it in place. I filled the bow with balsa.

I will mostly use the drawings in the Anatomy of the Ship book during my build.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I finished the first layer of planking on the port side and started the second layer. Since the original planking of the ship was clinker type, I started it from the keel upwards.
This is the first time I'm making a clinkered hull. In case I fail and get stuck, I decided to complete one side first so that I wouldn't have to deal with the other side in vain. Normally I do it on both sides.

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Edited by mtbediz
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Clinker planking of the port side is complete. I am happy with the result. I think it doesn't look so bad at all for a first time job done. I used 1.5x8 mm planks in planking. Maybe it would be more realistic if i used a bit wider planks,

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The second layer of planking is complete.. In real life, these planks were fixed to each other and to the frames with bolts + treenails in a certain configuration. I want to reflect this on the model, otherwise it will be a very raw look. I know some methods to give a treenail effect, but what can be done to give a 1:36 scale bolt effect or to represent the bolt? I would be glad if friends with ideas can guide me.

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You could use micro-bolts or micro-nails in brass. Micro-Mark sells some of these.

You could also go to Tichy Train who manufactures plastic bolts in 1/48 and 1/32nd scale for trains and cars.

 

It will be a very tedious and long job, but you are obviously shooting for a very nice and detailed model and it may be worth the investment in time and labor.

 

Yves

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On 5/27/2022 at 3:25 PM, yvesvidal said:

You could use micro-bolts or micro-nails in brass. Micro-Mark sells some of these.

You could also go to Tichy Train who manufactures plastic bolts in 1/48 and 1/32nd scale for trains and cars.

 

It will be a very tedious and long job, but you are obviously shooting for a very nice and detailed model and it may be worth the investment in time and labor.

 

Yves

Thank you so much for your suggestion Ywes.  I will look at them.

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I stained above the waterline and mounted the wales. Below the waterline will be painted white later. I kept the bulwark caprails in hot water for a while and fixed them in place with clips. I'll glue them when they dry.

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I making the bolt effects with 0.7mm diameter black nails. The visible bolt head is spherical and approximately 1.25 mm in diameter. (When we move it to 1:1 scale, the bolt nut size becomes approximately 45 mm, which I think is not too inappropriate in terms of scale). It looks more like a rivet than a bolt nut, but I couldn't find a more suitable material.

In the original, the bolts are closer together. I bought all the nails in the store and for now I am doing them widely spaced as the number is limited. Depending on the remaining number of nails, I can make one more row in between.

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Edited by mtbediz
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Thank you so much Oldsalt.

 

I have begun the deck planking. Basswood planks in the photos are temporary, I am using them as templates for preparing the margin planks.

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Edited by mtbediz
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While I was waiting for the hornbeam strips I ordered for the deck planking I painted below the waterline white. I am not very knowledgeable in painting, nor I am good at it. I don't like putty and sandpaper job at all, so I always chose unpainted models before.

 

There are a few points that I need to touch up.

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3 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

This type of hull is probably the most difficult to paint. You did a very good job overall, and once you fix the couple of mistakes, it will look really good.

 

Yves

Thank you so much for stopping by and your encouraging words Yves. This is my first clinker built hull attempt and I am happy with the result too.

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Will you be staining the deck or just applying and clear coat over the finished deck?

Current Build: Fair American - Model Shipways

Awaiting Parts - Rattlesnake

On the Shelf - English Pinnace

                        18Th Century Longboat

 

I stand firmly against piracy!

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13 hours ago, Oldsalt1950 said:

Will you be staining the deck or just applying and clear coat over the finished deck?

I will only apply matte varnish. I got the look in the photo on my USF Essex model I built before and I like it.

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On 19.6.2022 at 21:05, mtbediz said:

Ich werde nur Mattlack auftragen. Ich habe den Look auf dem Foto auf meinem USF Essex-Modell, das ich zuvor gebaut habe, und ich mag es.

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Very nice work Mustafa.

Auf der Werkbank:

Corvette La Palme (L'Amarante) von 1744 POF nach Plänen von Ancre

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/32046-la-palme-by-tobias-136-pof/

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/29843-le-coureur-1776-by-tobias-caf-148/


 

LE ROCHEFORT - Hafenyacht von 1787 1:36 von Tobias (Monographie von ANCRE)

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

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