Pilot Boat Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW

[KenW]

Planking of the starboard hull continues.  However, I’m not pleased with how it’s going.  You can see from the photo that the forward section and the aft section don’t ‘match’.  It looks like a drop plank will be needed in the middle of the hull - a very unusual location for one.  

I went back and studied my planking process; from creating the paper strips at each bulkhead to the final installation of the wooden planks.  I see problems throughout the entire process.  So I’m going to start on the port side from the beginning.  I’ll create new paper strips and try to more closely follow these strips and see the results.  If, as I suspect, the port side comes out better, I’ll remove all the strakes from the starboard side and, again, start from the beginning.  This is taking a whole lot longer than I originally planned.  But there is no rush - I don’t have a boss with a due date standing over me.  I think it was Augie that said, “It ain’t a hobby if you hurry.”

[Jaager]

I do not think I could cut and apply planks in a way that would match an optimistic subdivision for each plank width for the whole area from the beginning.

 

If I was starting from scratch, I would start with two battens and define three zones.  I may just use one side for both.

It is tricky enough to lay the battens in a way that produces an elegant curve and divides the stem rabbet and stern rabbet with proper room for no drop planks being necessary.  Time spent here at the beginning can save a lot of work and heartache later.  If you were careful to have a symmetrical hull, trying to get the port batten to mirror the starboard batten may be unneeded.  I would pick one side and spot - not bother doing the other one.

 

The garboard would go on first.  The P&S garboard. 

Then I would start at the wale and plank the upper zone P&S - using the same pattern for each strake.

The planking fan is a convenient way subdivide.  Rather than try to make the location for each strake at the start, I would begin anew at each strake.

i.e.:  If the upper zone is 8 strakes, use the fan to define 1/8th for the first strake. Mount it P&S.

Measure the new gap and use the fan to define 1/7th, mount,  measure 1/6th, 1/5th, etc.

The last strake for upper zone could be where any difference P&S can be resolved, or go with matched pairs and fix it later.  It depends on just how different they were.

Next do the bottom zone next to the keel.

The middle zone is where P can be measured and used there and S measured and done there.  Either each strake or just the last one or two.

 

 

Edited November 26, 2022 by Jaager

[KenW]

Thanks.  I've finished the zone of 6 strakes next to the wales.  I came out pretty good.  The problem is always, for me, how close am I to the plan.

I will get out the paper strips and re-measure the next zone.

If I am pleased with this side, I plan to remove the old planking on the other side and start over with it.

Cheers.

[druxey]

Do check out the planking primer by D. Antscherl on this site. Following it should solve all your problems.

[KenW]

Thanks druxey.  I have that article. 

Cheers.

 

[KenW]

I measured a new set of paper strips for a planking plan for the port side.  The plan is for 19 one eighth width strakes; divided into 3 belts of six planks.  I’ve completed the first belt of planking and I think I’m on the right track.  One thing I learned about planking is that you can bend a plank more than once.  At the bow, I first do an edge bend at the mid point of the plank, and then bend again about one half inch forward and another bend a half inch aft.  This created an overall bend of the plank that fits the adjoining strake.  If it’s still not right, I bend again.  Then I bend the standard way for the curve of this odd shaped bow.  Attached is a photo of the first belt and you can see how nicely the forward planks lie.

 

[garyshipwright]

Looking good Ken. Keep up the good work. Gary

[FriedClams]

Hello Ken.  I don't know how I missed this build, but I'm caught up now.  I've never built a bread & butter hull, but it looks to be an interesting process.  I must try it sometime.  Your persistence in planking is admired and will no doubt produce a great end result.  Looking forward to future updates.

 

Gary 

[KenW]

 

Thanks Gary.  Planking the bowl bow requires a lot of patience.

I hope for the best.

Cheers.

[KenW]

Happy New Year!  I finally completed planking the port side of the model.  It came out better, but far from perfect.  If you look closely you’ll see a plank near the bow that is WAY too wide.  I just have to learn to be more careful!  There is no reason why if I have my paper strips, measure them properly, mark the hull accurately, and follow the marks when shaping the strips, I need a wide strake.  I’m going to start on the starboard side and if it comes out way better I’ll have to decide whether to do the port side over.  Probably I won’t.  I’ll just put the port side towards the wall..

 

[FriedClams]

Good to see an update, Ken.  Looking good.

 

On 1/24/2023 at 8:22 PM, KenW said:

I’ll have to decide whether to do the port side over.  Probably I won’t.  I’ll just put the port side towards the wall..

 

Models are like people; most have one profile that's better than the other.  But if it's going to always bug you, maybe you could just pull off the wide plank along with the planks adjacent to it (or two on each side) and divide the space equally between the replacements.

 

Gary

[KenW]

Thanks Gary.  That's a good idea.  I'll see what happens.

Cheers.

[KenW]

It has been awhile, but I completed the planking of the hull.  I had several problems.  When I switched to the 1/16 inch planks, I still had trouble bending the planks to the necessary shape of the bow.  This problem shows where the planks join the stem.  So my choice was to either redo the planking, port and starboard, or try to fix it.  I chose the second.  The results are obvious below.

 

 

I now think that this whole project was poorly conceived.  Trying to make a model from a picture without plans was a bad idea.  I’ve planked a boat’s hull with a ‘bowl bow’ before (the Independence).  I think that if I had a proper plan the shape of the bow would be different.  I am going to continue the build because I feel there are still lessons to be learned.  I just may not show the model anywhere or to anyone.

[CiscoH]

i wasnt sure what i could write that didn’t sound superior or patronizing, which i certainly dont mean to be.  if i’m seeing the picture correctly the planks are all even width, a nice curve into the bow, and regularly spaced butt joints.  some broken plank tips at that severe bend that seems to happen right before inserting into the bow rabbit.  i find it challenging (ok, a PITA) making those 3 dimensional bends at the bow.   live and learn, then move on.

 

and by posting youre helping everyone who reads your log.  like me.

Edited April 4, 2023 by CiscoH

[KenW]

Thanks for the encouragement.  I'll continue with the model and my postings. 

It'll be interesting to see how it all turns out.

Cheers.

[KenW]

Moving on.  I’ve almost finished the hull.  I tried to improve the look of the bow with some wood filler.  It came out better than I thought it would, but you can still see the problem.  I reinforced the rail so it stands out from the hull and sanded both the deck and hull.  I use several grades of sandpaper; in this case the final grade is 400 - very smooth.  After a few coats of Wipe-on Poly, I’ll do a final sanding with 600 and then a few more coats.  The same goes with the hatch coverings.  I don't feel I can leave them open since I don’t know what’s in them.

    

[KenW]

I made a cradle for the model.  I have some books showing models at the National Maritime Museum in London.  I found one I liked and created a design, cut it out of basswood with my jeweler’s saw.  Squared everything with a sanding stick, added some plastic spongy material, and applied some coats of Wipe-on-Poly.  

[KenW]

Modeling has been discontinued for the summer.  I’ll be starting on a new project while vacationing away from Brooklyn’s heat.  I’ll continue with the rigging in the fall.

See you in September.

[KenW]

I’m back from a summer of disaster.  But modeling can continue.  I’ve cut the masts and gaffs and am starting to make sails.  I’m using a composite of entries by TomShipModel from Chuck Pissaro’s Medway Longboat blog. It is found at: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/28900-sails-for-a-cutter-rigged-long-boat-medway-longboat/

 I cut out sails on paper to get the sizes right and drew the lines to simulate the sewing of the clothes.  The boat has a mainsail, a foresail and a jib.  A photo of my layouts is below. 

Now to actually make the sails from Silk Span.

 

Edited October 23, 2023 by KenW

[Chuck]

Welcome back Ken.

[KenW]

I’ve been experimenting with the sails.  I wanted to have the bolt ropes outside the sails, but didn't want to sew them.  So I got some “Tacky Glue” and, after folding the two outside sheets over, I glued a few bolt ropes onto the jib and lower foresail.  But Tacky Glue attaches itself to my desktop as well as a piece of wax paper which makes using it difficult.  And you can hardly see the rope.  So I decided to put the rope inside the fold.  

Also I printed the boat name onto both sides of the upper foresail.  The printing didn’t line up well, plus there were kinks in the sail, so I made a new set of sails.  They aren’t finished yet but I enclose photos of my rejects.

My question is: Should I have the name on both sides of the sail? Should both names be printed on top of each other? Or just one name on the starboard side?

 

 

[KenW]

I also have a question about the sails I'm making.  In one of my 'experiments' I added the reinforcing cloths attached to the leeches. 

Using pieces of Silk Span, they completely blended in.  You can't see that they're there.

However, on one of the photos on TomShipModel's presentation shows full sails he made and the reinforcing cloths look 'shaded'. 

I'm wondering how that shading was obtained.

Any ideas are welcome.

[bdgiantman2]

If by "shaded" you mean colored and looking older, I have heard of modelers using tea or coffee to color the fabric. I  think it was short submerges and let dry until you get a color desired.

 

Brian D

[mtaylor]

7 hours ago, bdgiantman2 said:

If by "shaded" you mean colored and looking older, I have heard of modelers using tea or coffee to color the fabric. I  think it was short submerges and let dry until you get a color desired.

 

Brian D

Or perhaps very very thinned out paint?   Tea/coffee are acidic and will destroy cloth eventually.

[KenW]

I attended my club meeting and did a small remote presentation of my model.  They also pointed out that tea wasn't the best to use on the sails.

They recommended sepia ink; which I ordered.  Once it arrives I'll experiment and post the results.

Watch this space.

[KenW]

The sails will be printed on the starboard side only, along with the cloths.

I made a stove a while ago, but I noticed that at a scale of 1:48, the bricks would be 18-21 inches long.

Too big.  So I made a new stove with bricks about 2 inches x 4 inches x 8 inches.  I also added some coal bits and dry painted some coal residue.  Now I need a kettle to brew tea.

 

[bdgiantman2]

Stores like JoAnn's and Michael's sale dollhouse accessories, some in 1:48 scale. I have seen online ability to purchase kettles that scale.

[KenW]

Thanks BD.  I check it out.

[KenW]

So I made a tea kettle at 1:48.  It's very small but not that hard to make.  I generally avoid knives; every time there’s a breakage I’m holding my x-acto.  Files and sanding sticks are best.  Also, when I make something from a dowel, I don’t remove what I’m making until it’s as close to finished as possible. 

   

Edited November 18, 2023 by KenW

[KenW]

The mainsail is completed and rigged onto the boat.  That includes the reefing ties.  The sail looks like the wind is at its back.  I may try to do a little more shaping, but I think it is done.

I’ve been wondering about how ‘fancy’ the rigging should be.  When my wife, in-laws and I were in Palermo we met Dino.  Dino was a ‘tok-tok’ driver whom we agreed to let him give us a tour of the city.  His tour actually turned out to be great.  However during the ride, the door next to me swung open and the inside latch on the ‘tok-tok’ fell on the floor at my feet.  I showed it to him and pointed out he could fix it with just 4 screws and nuts. His reply was that he could find ‘a’ screw.  He wasn’t navy; he was just a ‘tok-tok’ driver trying to ‘make a buck’.

I wonder if the owner of my pilot boat was just like Dino - just a guy trying to ‘make a buck’.  Would he spring for parels on the lines securing the gaffs and boom to the mast?  Would he want to spend on tar to protect the few lines of standing rigging?  I’m going to include those things, but I don’t know if what I'm doing is really authentic.