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Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24


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Bravo Gaetan; simply stunning work.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Every time I see the ship and her carvings I'm struck by the sheer beauty of your work. I like to revisit your build log to remind me of the previous stages ... so much to see, and learn

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you Carl,

 

In the last 2 weeks, I did some research about straight edge razor and sharpening. The single most important thing I learned is that if sharpening is the first step; polishing is the final step to optimize the sharpening one notch over. By opposition to a scraper where the edge is sharpened perpendicular to the blade and the bur is left there .

 

Stones are use to repair, sharpen and set the bevel which create the edge. They come in a variety of materials including diamond,  japanese waterstones, and ceramics. Grain varies from very coarse grain (100 micron), to a fine grain #100 (15 micron) factory edges on knives, to a near mirror polish #8000 waterstone (3 micron) to a mirror polish with diamond paste #60,000 (,5 micron) , 100,000 (,25 micron).

 

 One of the sharpest knives  available is a straight edge razor used by barber. King cutter would be one of the best kind. By example he uses watersones up to 8000 to complete the sharpening  and for the finish,  he uses a leather strop (horse leather is a very good choice), not intended to remove material but rather to accomplish a re-alignment of the indentations of the blade. Both sides of the blade are passed  successively left and right because it is important to have 2 similar sides.

 The strop can also be used for knives with 2  cutting side. Unfortunately the leather strop is not intended for carving knives. The rough sharpening can be done uo to a #8000 watersone, but the finishing is different. Polishing the edge will mean that the surface will slide in an easier way. To achieve a mirror finish we use a wheel made from cotton or felt. To optimize  the finish a green paste like the one from Lee Valley  can increase a mirror finish  up to ,5 micron.

 

Here is an idea for a good combination for hand sharpening;

 Watersones in a pyramid of  #1000, #3000 and #8000 plus a truing stone  to have a perfect flat stone (waterstones are more tender than the standard grey stone we are use to see and also a true surface will give better results). You could go  up to 16,000 but the difference would not be much significant.  And for the finishing a felt wheel + green compound to get a mirror finish.

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Just one word comes to mind  - BEAUTIFUL

 

Great work Gaetan!

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Optimization of a knife blade

 

If a straight edge razor is 1 of the sharpest edge, what would be  the equivalent with a knife?

An elongated triangular shape with large sides to have a easy surface to maintain the sharpening angle while sharpening. The straight edge razor has 2 concave sides. I think that by forging the blade like this, it ease the sharpening process giving 2 points to rest the blade flat on the waterstone. No holder is necessary to maintain a stable angle of sharpening.

 

 

 Few years ago, I bought this knife from Lee Valley and I have always thought that it was a very cutting knife. Now I see why. There is secondary bevel on the blade.

 

 

I just looked at lee valley and the closest knife is a japanese knife.

It is a fact they knew something about knives and sharpening.

 

or may be:  http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=67995&cat=1,130,43332,43393&ap=1

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Edited by Gaetan Bordeleau
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great expose  thanks Gaeta; This is an item I need to procure and this will help

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Beautiful inspirational work. Thanks for sharing Gaetan.

 

Regards, Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Preparation of the blanks of the cornucopia and the blank for the figurehead

Even if I could use a boxwood blank as the rules stipulations, I will not use it. For this model,  cherry  wood is almost the only wood used.The main idea at the beginning was to create a homogeneous wood color for this model. I have a blank of apple wood. I will try carving this kind of wood to see what kind of results are possible.

Next step, this autumn, carving the blanks.

 

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Very nice mini-tutorial on setting up and preparing the blanks for carving Gaetan; look forward to seeing the results of your Autumn carving efforts.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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  • 2 months later...

The third picture has to much reflection from the background, which blurs the contours, the second has that slightly, you can see it around the rail (top centre), so for me, disregarding the colour, it would be the first.

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Your entire build log is beyond words.  It is a joy to go back to earlier pages as well as current pages.

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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I am having pleasure to try to shoot a perfect picture with a white background. Whe I look at these 3 pictures on the screen, the real color of the model is somewhere between 1 and 2.

 

Many fluctuating variables must be controlled in 1 shot. In a way, it is exactly like trying to calibrate a motor, each part must be adjusted in relation with his group and everything must turn and produce a good sound and in this case, a good picture.

 

It is difficult to position the lights to get : a pure white background,

                                                                 the real color of the model,

                                                                 no reflections on the model. 

 

I can control each variable separately, but I have difficulties to get a well tuned engine.

 

The large surface is also a problem about 4 by 8 feet.  . A black background is 100 times easier to approach. You can do it with a black  curtain or with the flash close to the model.

 

Theoretically, reflection is easy to control if there is not more than 2 coats of tung oil, accumulation of coats create a thickness in the oil and this dried thickness can be very reflective. The worst finish I could use is a shiny reflective varnish.

 

Black wales represent a problem. The water based black paint looks fine under the naked eye but when the camera looks at it, she has no mercy. When I look where are the shining spots, some corrections must be brought to correct the problems but it is very delicate and in few cases a very light sanding.

 

In a summary, the model would need  better finish, and the photograph needs some more practice.

I probably did at least 500 pictures of the same model. I did not see the perfect shot yet.

 

The main thing is that the last picture is better than the first one. This is a good sign which means;

 

Continue to learn and you will succeed.

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I know that I seriously lack any understanding regarding taking pictures - my experience is limited to point and shoot.

Nevertheless, I am constantly in awe of what can be done, and how a tiny detail can ruin a picture.

 

Not only is this model a work of Art, seeing you working to improve how you represent that model in the best light commands my greates respect.

 

Slainte

Peter

Heghlu'meH QaQ jajvam

Slainte gu mhath

L.H.

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Gaetan,

 

Are you using direct light, diffused, or reflected light for the lighting the ship itself?  From my 35mm photography days, reflected light off a white board minimized reflections.  Diffused can also do it depending...   

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Gaetan,

 

I am no expert on the field of photography, but the best results I have been able to achieve are shooting outdoors on the north side of my house so the sun is completely blocked and the model is in the shadow of the house.  I lay a sheet of photo backdrop paper, usually light grey,  on the ground and run it up a wall so there is no seam. A little tape is used at the top.  It is all then indirect lighting so very little or no shadow.   Overcast day is best IMHO, still light enough, but virtually no shadows, glare, reflection etc.  It only takes 5 minutes or so to set up.  I wind up laying on the ground to take the shots, but not a hardship to do so.

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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