Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

just a quick FYI - post.

 

I needed some more blocks and rope so went to Syren's site. Chuck has added several size cleats. Look really nice.

 

Cheers,

 

Edited January 25, 2016 by md1400cs

[riverboat]

Yeah, those cleats are nice , I used some on my Alert, I needed 12mm so Chuck was nice enough to make them for me.... your build is really looking good...

 

Frank

[rschissler]

Syren cleats: Darn, I wish I had known he added those with my last order from him.  I remember suggesting to him awhile back about adding them to his line of products.  Wood cleats smaller than 12mm are something that hasn't been available from anywhere, so I'm glad he saw the need.

Edited January 26, 2016 by rschissler

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Doing some work finishing up the three foremasts timbers as well as the upper platform. Took a detour and tried to make the mouse for the foremast stay that attaches to the bowsprit mast. Well did the first bit.

 

I wanted to try (first effort) not to just bend the rope tip over forming the ring, but instead trying to lace the end back into the rope itself. The 1/1 details look so perfect, but Hmmm…

 

----------------------------

 

Using closing tweezers unlaced a tip of the 9-ply rope

 

Added a bit of glue so as to not allow the pope unfurl any further.

 

Added some space from the glued bit and re-attached another set of closing tweezers after reversing the rope wrap

 

Used a dowel as a “ring” and after pushing the loose rope ends through the un-stranded gap, again used glue to set the rope twisting it all back into an appropriate looking weave.

 

Let the glue dry, cut off the protruding stands and then wrapped it all with thread.

 

OK now I need to actually make the “mouse bit”

 

And as always, thanks so much for dropping by and taking a look - Always so appreciated.

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

 

 

[GLakie]

Nice rope-work Michael! Looks like a perfect eye to me. 

[md1400cs]

Thanks Mates,

 

George you are always, also, so kind with your likes. (;-) So I finally, today, got around to putting together Syren's "Servo-Matic".

 

So I will re-visit my first attempt at an eyelet, and a mouse. I plan to follow up, properly, with Chuck's tool and properly serve the rope as well.

 

Still learning, I am....Sorry for the very minor post (:-)

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[GLakie]

I bought Chuck's serving machine quite a while back, but I haven't put mine together yet. Let us know how you like it. So far, everybody swears by it. 

[popeye2sea]

Nice job on the thimble eye for the stay.  Looking forward to watch how you raise the mouse.

 

Regards,

[fmodajr]

Hi Michael,

 

Nice detail (rigging) work on the eye! Looks like you are making good progress!

 

Frank

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Need some sage advice. Tried a Google search but came up empty.

 

I finally, today, used the Servo Matic (5 Stars). But I am serving a "Stockholm tarred" line with black thread. The work is ok, but I don't like the "look" of it. 

 

So my question is--Should a tarred rope also be served with the same color thread (in this case dark brown) in order to keep the look authentic?

 

As some of you know when it comes to rigging I'm a novice. This build is my first, real, attempt at rigging so the learning curve is still being climbed.  Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

Michael

Edited February 5, 2016 by md1400cs

[GLakie]

Can you get your hands on any close-ups of the shrouds on the one in the museum Michael? I found this link to some pics you can blow up and look at their's. From what I can see, those shrouds aren't wormed, parceled, or served. http://www.modelships.de/Museums_and_replicas/Vasa-Museet-Stockholm/Photos-Vasa-ship.htm

Edited February 5, 2016 by GLakie

[popeye2sea]

I think that if you are representing your tarred line with a particular color the service should be the same.  After all it is all coated with the same tar.

 

Regards,

[md1400cs]

George,

 

Thanks for the link. The debate has to also do with actual tarring or not. The Vasa was not tarred when it sank. That was to presumably be done after all fittings were installed, and it was readied for sea duty. Also as you noted none of the Museum's lines are tarred. Though the main mast stay is served.

 

Henry, yes of course, that makes sense. My confusion has to do with how actually lines were served back then. Did the craftsmen pre tar the serving ropes before spooling them to the shrouds? Which is why as asked that question - I just don't know about those details. In any case I will use brown thread.

 

PS: My wife did not have any so I grabbed black ha ha 

 

Thanks for adding your thoughts.

 

 

 

[popeye2sea]

It has always been my understanding that all line had some degree of tarring as part of the rope making process. Basically the rope is run through a vat of hot tar at a rate determined by how much tar the rope maker wants in the rope.

 

I have been told that after the shrouds, stays, and other standing rigging have been wormed, parcelled and served where needed and have been set up on the ship they were slushed with additional tar to make them more impervious to the wet.

 

Other, more learned persons than me may have more information.

 

Regards,

[Ferit]

Michael,

You are well on the way to being the honorary mentor of the Wasa Museum... :-)

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Thanks for the nice comments, likes and just dropping by.

Ferit, you are too kind. I am still a student who has a lot of learning ahead. (;-)

 

Speaking of learning – third attempt to serve an eyelet and make a mouse;

 

SO

 

Back to the serving tool

Finished the first section for the eyelet. THIS time, after uncoiling the end strands I ONLY kept one strand, cutting the others off at the served end.

 

Above post I tried to keep all four strands. What was I thinking? Trying to “weave” the four strands back in was just not working.

 

So, inserted the one uncut strand through the other end of the served section rope to create the eye.

 

Glued and left to dry (note that the two end served threads have not been cut nor the “pulled through” rope strand. All left in place.

 

The served leftover threads were then spooled and knotted through the base of the eyelet to help visually fill the served “gap” that was left after pulling the one strand through the rope.

 

The “pulled through” strand was left because with my just previous attempt (no photo) with the pressure of the serving tool the eyelet opened up, Grrrrrr. Leaving the last strand (after gluing helped to add strength to the eye during serving)

 

Next used two carriage wheels to make the mouse. Ran it through the rope, attached four ropes.

 

This was done because I feared that when I got to trying to serve the mouse; the thread would just slip and not cover the mouse. The four threads should help to hold the thread in place as it was being served.

 

You will note that mid-way between the eyelet and the mouse there are to long stands of thread.

 

Unexpectedly as I was using pressure with my thumb and forefinger allowing the serving to progress, inside my closed palm the thread (from the bobbin) started knotting itself up. SO I had to snip the thread and start over mid-way.

 

NOTE the thread bobbin was then left hanging and gravity allowed it to keep twists unspooled.

 

Now reaching the first half of the mouse – All good so far, but then thread started slipping forward. Stopped--

 

Glued thread mid-way and started serving backwards towards the mouse from the other side. ALL ok.

 

Oh - used very little flat brown paint to “hide” dried glue marks, then rubbed the paint off with my thumb

 

What did I learn?

 

• Serving thread needs to be same color as rope (thanks Henry)

•Thread may bunch up

•Mouse needs more than four cross-threads (allowing for a more rounded look once served and covered.

• Need to improve the actual serving of the mouse bit – rope is ok but close up mouse is a bit “weak”

•Mouse might be a bit too big ??

• Don’t start serving when Admiral is around, she will always need my assistance for something, She did indeed. (:=))

 

Enjoyed this learning. And mate’s thanks for your advice!

 

Cheers

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ferit]

Hi Michael,

Really fine work you are doing my friend.

 

For the mouse, two years ago :-) I shared some information that I had found on the web. I don't know if it is accurate way to make a mouse.

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1799-frigate-berlin-by-ferit-kutlu-corel-scale-140-year-1674/page-31

 

Post #617

Edited February 9, 2016 by AlphaUrsaeMinoris

[popeye2sea]

That method is from R.C. Anderson, The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast.  While it is not the actual method used to raise a mouse, it comes very close and you probably could not tell the difference by appearance.  The actual method used nettles doubled over a loop above the mouse.  The mouse was padded out from the stay to its shape with parcelling.  The nettles were then pointed over ( like weaving, over and under each successive nettle). As the mouse shape got larger additional nettles were woven in and when the mouse narrowed nettles were cut out.  After the mouse is pointed over the ends of the nettles were laid along the stay and the stay serving covered over them.

 

I used Andersons method for my stays, and while the method takes some fiddly work with a needle to accomplish the results are great.

 

Regards,

[md1400cs]

Ferit, and Henry,

 

Henry your mouse looks really great.

 

Thanks for the information. I also had these "forgotten" jpg.s in my files.

 

I will try this technique for the main mast. The two mouse construction pics are from a MSW builder. I apologize, I don't remember who'se log I pulled these from - So I can't say thanks. BUT that seems to be a perfect way to do it. As you said Henry a bit labor intensive but great look.

 

I might redo the foremast mouse if the main comes out nicely. As always mates thanks so much for dropping by to this very very slow moving build.

 

 

 

 

 

[fmodajr]

Michael,

 

Yikes! Beautiful work and all the detail! 

Well done!

 

Frank

[md1400cs]

Frank,

 

Thanks so much BUT

 

I did NOT do that amazing mouse, as I noted in the posting. I'm hoping to copy this method (:-)

 

Now if you are remarking about the next to last post regarding my first attempts at serving. then of course, a big thank you.

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

[fmodajr]

Hi Michael!

 

Sorry about the confusion!

I should have been clearer!

 

I was trying to convey my thoughts on the excellent mouse that you made in the previous page and the "yikes" comment I made is for your drive to make it even better by wanting to try the other technique above!

 

Great job!

 

Frank

 

P.s. I am up in Maine this weekend and it is supposed to get down to -15 degrees tonight!

[md1400cs]

Frank,

 

Thanks for your very kind postings. Enjoy your Maine weekend, as you know it's been in the 80ºs here in LA and Santa Monica (:-)

 

BUT we are all asking, "El Niño, where are you?" 

 

Cheers, 

 

Michael

[JanV]

Hi guys

do not bother El Nino is lost and now in Western Europe

 

Michael I am looking forward to see your mice finished as this is something I need to do also shortly

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Preparing the weather deck foremast area for installation of the foremast, and then attaching the shrouds

 

1) Drilled holes in the lower railing to insert the vertical beams for the (later) upper railing trim pieces.

 

2) Discovered a 1/10^th photo that showed blocks attached to the frame of the entry into the upper gun deck.

 

I also found these four blocks in the museum weather deck running rigging fastenings 53 & 57. So added those as well.

 

Some before and after shots follow

 

3) Cut the weather cover to better fit the now smaller entry to the gun deck.

 

4) Added eyebolts and a block at the foremast base. Along with a cleat on the mast (my idea ) hmmm

 

I WILL repaint those poor heads that have lost their yellow -

 

Thanks for still dropping by and looking in at this very very slow build (J

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

 

 

 

[GLakie]

Splendid work Michael!  It doesn't matter about how long it takes when you see the level of detail you're putting into her! 

[NMBROOK]

Your attention to detail knows no bounds Michael,splendid work my friend  

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[mar3kl]

Just beautiful work - amazing detail.

[fmodajr]

Hi Michael,

 

Great job on a difficult area (the upper railing system!).

Make sure you trial fit the belaying pins with the coiled rope attached in order to make sure it fits next to those

vertical railing posts! I had a few close calls on mine!

 

I second George's comments above!!!

 

Frank

[edmay]

Absolutely stunning a grand effort, well done Michael,Edwin