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Ulises, Zoltan – thanks - always nice when you drop in. Your kind posts are also very encouraging indeed.


EJ, Anton, Denis – Agreed will re-lash sprit mast with tarred ropes. Waiting for a new shipment from Chuck (his ropes and blocks are so perfect)


Mates – yes the cannon/deck dimensions are in fact a bit odd indeed. Woodo if you discover more info that would be interesting.


Duff Thanks for sharing the historical info that you posted - !!


Thanks also EJ, Anton for the added discussion on this topic.


Coxswain Thanks so much for all of the likes  super appreciated (:-) 


Regarding Vasa weather deck canon long lengths I found this as a possible answer – maybe the canon builders had done some

physical testing to determine what the link just below answers.




The higher caliber cannons below did not need such long barrels - so it seems



Always thankful for all of your visits, likes, and comments





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The length of a gun barrel does matter.


An "modern" example  is  a russian WW 2 small anti tank kanon.

The 45mm model 1937 modernised in 1942 to the model 1942 by making the barrel longer.

A longer barrel and higher load of pouwder gives a higher muzzle velocity.

This gives a longer range and a more flat trajectory to a projectile that has  same weight.



Muzzle velocity 760 m/s (2,493 ft/s)


Muzzle velocity  870 m/s (2,854 ft/s)


So these long cannons on the upper deck could be used to hit an object at a longer distance.

The gun crew  could " safely " lean out over the bulwarks to clean and reload  them offboard as they were still away from the enemy


I hope my explanation in "google english" Is understandable.

And i may be completely wrong with this theory.

But this is the thinking of a military modeler. Who has more experience with anti tank guns than with 17th century shipcannons.


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Buck - you have had one beer too many THANKS so much - that said (;-) your detailed work is so over the top. Enjoy everyone from buck's log (I need to share). You have been one of my visions

indeed. I hope to realize your detail work eventually - probably not !! 


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Hi Mates,


Minor update, in a diff area, I’m still waiting to receive needed ropes from Chuck (snail mail –grrr J  )


So installed one of the anchors. Positioning will evolve as will - how they are attached.


Found a jpg that visually showed how to attach the rope.



Used Landström’s drawings as my guide from his The Royal Warship VASA.




Some general pics




Here are the new tools that I now use to make the needed rings. This has thankfully evolved from my early attempts at making these rings. Now so much easier. Using aluminium 

tubing that is much softer than brass - though I do like this tool for brass works very well. Both tools found on eBay. 




Also working on making needed Euphroe blocks (Thanks EJ for your help on this)





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The rigging is looking great.

I'm not sure if I mentioned it earlier, but could make sense when researching rigging details; The Vasa was rigged by a scotsman. Looking at the bone model of Norske Løve in Rosenborg castle Copenhagen which was also rigged by a scotsman, you can spot some striking similarities.


Regarding gun recoil;

Indeed older guns would have been less powerful than later ones,

both in terms of the effectiveness of the gunpowder, bit also in terms of metal strength of the barrel.

As pointed out above, a longer gun barrel helps here, the reason for this is that the projectile accelerates for a longer time (acceleration ceases the moment the projectile leaves the barrel)

These (weatherdeck)cannons have way less recoil than the main guns, they are also lighter and can be maneouvred easier, which could explain the need for less deckspace for these guns (-still, Corel has too little deckspace and oversize guns here. They also have bulkier deck gratings. On the Vasa, the deck grating is flush with the deck with only the coaming portruding)

As to the point that the weatherdeck guns also could be loaded from the outside, it may be worth noting that the channels are located just below these guns.


There is an interesting mix of new and old in the armament, even seen in the complement of 24 pounders;

Gustav II Adolf drove a modernisation and standardisation of artillery in the army as well as the navy.

A ship didn't have 'its own' guns in earlier days, it was equipped ad hoc with what was necessary and available, leading to a mix of all sorts of calibers that needed to be carried and also supplied to the right guns for battle.

All 24 pounders were new and of standardized modern lighter style, except for two.

It is interesting to compare these two variants: the old 24 pounders are about 37% longer and twice the weight of the new ones.

Weatherdeck was armed with a mix of older cannons of weights nearly all the way down to 100kg.


The weatherdeck represents the older armament style while the main gun decks represents new and modern. Lots of space here, including an unusual amount of headroom compared to other ships of the day, which in hindsight might not gave been such a good idea..

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Baskerbosse – thanks for your insights as well as taking the time to post- Very interesting. Your Vasa knowledge is appreciated.


Karl – may I ask for your assistance? I’m at the point where I need to decide on the sails. I want to try making some, and then decide if they will (in my case) improve on this build.


I have been looking at yours and Frank’s logs for ideas and help.


May I ask how you added that great detail? – see your photo. -Thanks in advance Karl -you are always so helpful.


Mates, as always thanks for your likes and visits.




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Hola Michael:

Sure, if I can help you in anyway don´t doubt to ask.  All the stitches were made with my wife sewing machine after marking previously the lines.  About your specific question, for that sail i didn´t put any reinforcement, but I put it at the foremast lower sail. (picture) I took several pictures of the sails and don´t remember which of them I sent it to you, please tell me  if you want any in particular.


Saludos, Karl





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Thank you I understand - great- I will be going here next week(see below) to start the sails -


If I think that they look good, and don't take away from the details that I have added to this Corel kit - then I will add sails. Yours and Franks are what I am hoping to at least achieve. Both of your Vasas (with added sails) look so great. The sails really add to your builds. I will, in any case, sew all of the trim around the sails.


here is the place.




I will try myself or hire someone at the school who would be an "expert" details to follow,





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Hi Mates,


Continuing with standing rigging;

• Changing out the bowsprit lashing to correct – tarred ropes

 •First attempt at making Euphroe blocks, Found a more contemporary looking example online. May also incorporate  blocks with needed Euphros for mainmast backstay (as seen on that photo)

Funny PS; Word saw spelling error and wanted to change spelling to euphoria or euphoric ha ha

•Also making more fiddle blocks

Pics are self explanatory – so brief text here.

I can see that eventually tensioning all of these lines against each other will be complicated to get them all looking “right” That bridge is for later.




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If it is not too late, I would recommend leaving your shrouds and stays adjustable. I had already glued mine down so I had to cut them free at and retension many of them through the deadeyes to help keep my running rigging tight and the standing rigging straight. Not perfect but it helped a lot. 


I've also had that problem with my auto correct when I post on my phone with many nautical terms. Spelling and grammar checkers do not like the Navy! :P


I wish I would have found that picture of the euphroe blocks when I was searching. I like that better than the one I designed mine off of. Well, into the files for the next build!


Rigging is looking sharp. Won't be long now and she will be ready for her maiden voyage!

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Thanks for your nice comments – Yes your advice is well taken. This happens to be something that I have the foresight of understanding. Most of the standing rigging won’t be secured until much latter.


I also assume that I will need “reaching room” when attaching yards, sails, and required running rigging. It is my goal to complete the Vasa in 2017.




And then move backwards to 840 AD or thereabouts (Oseberg) I will, for that one, leave several sections open, including part of the deck, and the hull on one side – making visible construction details that would otherwise be all covered up. So the extra work will be with wood. An area that I like to work with.


Probably won’t add the sail, nor its simple rigging, but instead truncate the mast for a partial display. So it will be just basically a hull model.


I was just going to ignore this one (too big1/25th scale) but have reconsidered this in hindsight.

And so many actual photos of the Oseberg are available making the structural accuracy easier to replicate correctly.


Below is a replica of the Gokstad detail view– (the Oseberg was built as a burial shrine). But these two give great insight into their construction. Oseberg is the full view photo.Gokstad.thumb.jpg.04f8cd7d3dcbe582eb52b2e1e63ddf60.jpgnorway-oslo-bygdoy-peninsula-viking-boats-museum-oseberg-drakkar-of-CPYCF1.thumb.jpg.ee8c88a91ab0f8fa74866c0479379dda.jpg



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Thanks EJ_L for your entry regarding shrouds and standing rigging tension.  I would not have considered this concept. It is timely because i am almost ready to begin my shrouds and standing rigging on my Wasa build. I value the more seasoned artists advise as i am not as adept as many of the contributors to the Forum. This Forum has helped me to be a better modeler. Hats off to all of you.

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Denis – thanks, yes that does now look as it should. Also thanks for your continued support and kind thoughts.


Yup sails keep me up at night J  Would definitely add a big “bang” to this project.


EJ – just a thought; I had difficulty trying to properly scale the euphroe block threads taught. A bow seemed to always stay visual coming from each side of the blocks


I went from Chuck’s  .018 to his .012 and that helped a bit. But the real solution was to use a routing bit and add indented grooves to the blocks themselves. This allowed the rope bends to be better hidden within the block.


Now when pulled the ropes take on a better scaled toughness through the blocks to their respective shrouds.IMG_6372.thumb.jpg.ebc47dbe1481a02693dcf3c8fc7de351.jpg



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Ah! That is the trick! I have been fighting that same issue with mine and that "bow" in the rope was one of the biggest annoyances with trying to keep them tight. As much as I hate to do it, I may redo my crows feet to see if that improves the overall look. May rebuild those blocks while I am at it. Don't have to do them all but three of them for certain are bothering me. Thanks for figuring that out! :D

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