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Hi Mates,


Thanks for the likes much appreciated.


Peter No I will not rig the Viking ship - well the four ropes anyway. Intensions are to have a partially open outer hull, missing deck plank coverings, adding as much added details as possible with square nail cleats in as many locations that I can copy from photos from the Viking museum. Also will add the ballasting rocks. Will scratch build all of the shields, including leather strips for the hands. Those are my mental build plans - to be determined how it all works out.


This kit is just tooooo large to also add its sail. Mast will be mounted but with a truncated hight. I'm presently putting together hundreds of available photos and drawings for this project.




Regarding Vasa - Contracted a local Wood shop that is building the base. The ship will mount on a base that will replicate a weather deck/including treenails - in larger scale (prob. five planks across its width - with cuts along the way that will be tree-nailed. Then four antiqued brass Pegasus. A plexiglass case will cover the project. (still need to work-out how to secure the keel to the base).




Kier Thanks so much for following along, your clicks, and of course your very kind comments.

Regarding the wood, apart from that supplied with the kit, I also would purchase the woods below from Blick Art Materials store. These were available from Midwestern. Sadly Midwestern no longer produces these so useful hardwoods. Now only in sheet size planks. Leaving an easy supply source for me no longer available.





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Hi Michael,


Beautiful work. The march of archaeological progress can be a real problem - it can turn what we "knew" on its head. A model based on this can only be accurate to the best knowledge to date - subject to further discoveries. I am in awe of anyone who completes a ship model as complex as this, and you've done an amazing job of her.


By the way, regarding the Viking shields, you might be interested in this link. The Gokstad ship's shields alternated - one plain black and one plain yellow shield, then black, yellow etc. The black was probably charcoal with some kind of binding substance (I experimented back in the day with animal fat - it works well, but attracts files like you wouldn't believe), and the yellow is though to have been arsenic sulphide. Unfortunately, conservation techniques when she was discovered were not what they are now, and no trace of the pigment survives.



Edited by Louie da fly
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Hi Mates,


Installed the mizzen yards and the last furled sail.

 Well, I do believe that all rigging has mostly been attached, except for a few upper mizzen sail lines, and other bits.


 An observation: I had initially a lot of doubts about adding sails. In retrospect happy that I took the leap. That said, the sails added (I’m estimating) probably 60% more required rigging than if I had just hung the yardarms without any sails at all.


Though as I had mentioned earlier – much appreciated the learning experience this provided.

 Now will start at the bowsprit attach, and pin locate all of the 100s of ropes leading through to the stern.


Steven Thanks so much for your kind compliment, remarks, AND for your link. Excellent indeed.


 Here are a few updated pics.






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Have been on MSW since 2013 I have never seen (builds I have scanned) such a complete informative and educational build log. The narratives and pictures were like I was sitting beside you as you built. From this point on I think I will try to mimic the effort in my logs in the future, it tells the complete story.

Cannot add any praises you have not all ready received beautiful man just beautiful it really is awe inspiring, and falls under a museum quality build KUDOS.

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Definitely the right choice adding the sails!

Looks great!
Is the mizzen yard going up a bit more? Fore end looks a bit close to the deck? Room for the sail to clear the deck? (with bonnet?)

Cool idea with the bottom of the display case as a weather deck (though you do know that the Vasa did not have treenailed weatherdeck?)

Looks nearly finished, and a great looking model!



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Hi Mates,


Sorry for the late thank you’s.


zappto: very appreciated - thank you


John: Oh! what can I say? – Thank you so much – I’m very happy that you find this log, and build so much to your liking.

Your words have really touched me.  I have felt the same following other logs, and feel touched that you find this build in the same regard that I feel about others. Again your words, and the support that I have had from members here have indeed been inspiring.


kier: Thanks as well. As I had mentioned I was not comfortable with the idea of sails, these being my first effort. I learned from other logs and gave it a shot. Yes, they did come out nicely – very much to my surprise and relief. Thanks for your nice comments –much appreciated.


fmodajr: Frank as you know you were the catalyst for my embarking on adding sails having closely followed your Vasa build. (;-) thanks!


Peter: Thanks as well – much appreciated.


Regarding mizzen – yes the fore tip will be adjusted. In fact all yards and sails will be adjusted, set and made to look correct as I move from the bow to stern finishing up this build that has taken way too long.


Funny you never disappoint – I did, of course, add treenails to the weather deck. I followed one of Landströms drawings from The Royal Warship.  So it has gone with this build. Regarding the base, the nails will stay just of the extra detailed look.




So small start at bow pulling lines and now looking for pin locations.




This has brought up a dilemma for me. Kit and after-marked wood pins all seem to have too much girth.

I like the look of metal pins, but not going there. I may thin out all of the needed wood pins, and re-stain them. Could be overkill on my part. Still thinking Hmmm




Again Mates thanks SO much for your super kind words, the great like clicks and also for just dropping by.





Edited by md1400cs
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(;-))))) One very last back and forth volley (from me) about this build's schizophrenic personality of have and have nots.

The 1/10th (yes, I now know that it is a poor representative) also has treenails on the weather deck. Hmmmm


Let's see how the new month-by-month DeAgostini 1:65th kit comes out in all of these areas. Apparently Fred H. is also very involved with this project.

PS: Do please keep me (us) updated - Your knowledge is so nice to read about.






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Hi Michael,


Whatever knowledge I may have here comes in large part from years of discussion with more knowledgeable people.

The weatherdeck nails would be iron nails, not treenails.

Scroll down for Fred’s comment:



To be honest, at the scale we’re working in with the Corel model, a treenail would not be visible.

(if you can see it, it’s probably not a treenail, if you can’t, it is a reasonable omission :-) )


The rigging is really looking great!

I am too looking forward to the results of the deAngostini builds. I know Fred is building one too.





Edited by baskerbosse
fixing up rough post done on phone..
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Hi Mates,

 Minor update. Started locating all of the bow area pin locations.

 Now starting with securing most of the shrouds, a few will wait until I get to the foremast. These lines connect to the foresails as well as to the lower forestay rope.

 Need to be sure that no tension bends occur later.




Also started doing rope wraps for the pins. One at a time will take way too long – need to get some kind of mass assembly of sorts. I’ll search out of logs for ideas in the rigging section.


Need to determine visual spool lengths as some shrouds connect to furled sails, others not. Also need to do some coiled wraps on the deck. For that purpose, I’ve ordered double sided clear tape as one of the members suggested in his log.




Rotating the boat back and forth on that small table of mine – the side of the gallery hit the recess of the inside the deep double-glazed window frame – Grrrr fix came out OK.

Moved the small table a bit away from the window ledge.






As always, thanks for your comments and likes.








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I'm gonna try that idea with the rope belayment........running the thread through the hole before the pin is inserted.   thought about doing it to the Thermopylae when I get to the rigging part.......haven't seen it done too much here.   takes a lot of the fight out of it  ;) 


nice job on the repair and trim work  :) 

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Yes it’s a good technique. It also adds temporary tension to a line with just the pin holding in place allowing for later re-adjusting the lines as needed.


Then cutting the extra and adding the coiled rope covers seems to work very well.




Also for making coiled ropes:


Using painter’s trim tape coil the rope.

Add a film of CA Gel

This will “lock” the spooled coil. And the gel will not bleed through to what will serve as the topside of the coil.


I then used small beads of Gorilla wood glue to secure the coil in place on the deck.


Had I thought of this much earlier I would have tried to coil all of the canon ropes. Though those ropes are super small almost like thick thread. Hmmm





Almost fished with this section - Last night started the three foremast sails- now that's a mess to figure out.


PS: Peter, I'm so happy that you know very little about Viking ships - what a personal relief (:-)))


Don Thanks !





Edited by md1400cs
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Hi Mates,

 Thanks for your very kind thoughts and likes.

 Section work in progress update:


 Moving to the foremast area. This area having so many more shrouds and ropes in areas that are harder to access behind the ratlines has resulted in needing a few more stress “time outs” :)

 Also working from three diff. plan sheets that show specific (and diff.) pin and rope attaching locations has increased the workload. Not a complaint = just an observation.


Also when I first installed the rails and drilled the pin holes on the upper railings (using Corel instructions way back when) that kit not having running rigging did NOT include the extra needed pinholes. Now needed to drill more rail holes behind ratlines. Will need the same fix when I reach the mainmast.


But it will all sort itself out :) Here are a few in-progress updated views.

None of the lines have been fixed or adjusted – just sorting out where they "should" go.





Edited by md1400cs
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Not sure about that. I am allowing for further reach by not inserting the drill bit too deeply into the Dremel. Also the size of the drill precluded wobbling. I do insert a pointer first - so that in-any-case- drill bit won't wander off and really cause extra grief.

Drilled six or so extra holes so far with perfect luck :D Thanks for the advice !



Edited by md1400cs
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Martyn – much appreciated thanks so much,


JanV: Thanks for still following along. Appreciate the compliment as well. Yes, you have been very busy with your house – well worth closing the shipyard for a while.


Update NO – but a badly avoided major issue. I share the fix in case others may end up with this problem….and could prevent the possibility beforehand.


Was finishing up the bowsprit area rigging details and sort of noticed over the last couple of weeks or so that the bowsprit platform was well “not looking right” wiggling a bit as well – then decided to pay it some real attention.


Curses here was the problem! (with the entire section on the verge of collapsing as well). Those of you kind enough to follow and also read along might remember that I had mentioned snapping the flagstaff mast twice. Well that problem was not limited to just that tiny mast.




The brass wire certainly saved the entire section from collapsing.


So the fix:


Disconnected those six futtock shrouds as well as that block


Slivered in lots of glue into the open gashes,


Used forward pressure with other hand to close the wound, re-adjusted the platform - then impaled a drill bit through both masts.


Kept adding drill bit depth into the masts by re-adjusting the bit bite on the Dremel – to the point where the drill bit was almost totally inserted.


Drill bit stayed there – then used locking tweezers to secure the mess and let the glue cure.




Added bits of wood to add substantive filler within the gaps – also hoping to add rigidity.




Then went to another area of the house carrying an empty glass that needed filling (it was Sat night J) and let this wound close up overnight.




Today: snapped off the end of the drill bit, Dremeled the left over shard.


Decided to add a camouflage to the scars, it got really fixed but post-surgery was ugly (:-) and there were unacceptable visible gaps. The slivers of wood do hide the fix, even though not correct.


7.thumb.jpg.7aa1b1530a8917ca9cb55db4eb46dabe.jpg8.thumb.jpg.3de4a5a3c0009f7d18e501a3b7abe774.jpg9.thumb.jpg.a662ea7d4065c5d1fff1e64d4f29802d.jpg     A                                                            


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Hola Michael:

I see you are progressing well, despite the mistakes that always appear and those that you have been able to correct properly. Everything is part of the fun and also serves to exercise the mind and creativity.
I see in several of your photos (2017-11.1) that you place the rigging provisionally, leaving them loose and without fastening it to the pin-rails. I think this lends itself to confusion and complicates its placement. What I do is place each rigging on its corresponding pin, although provisionally, inserting each one into the corresponding hole and holding it with the pin (as you have done). This allows to verify the position of the rigging and check if they have enough space between them or do not cross each other or avoid other complications.
By the way, to make new holes, I use the drills of the dremel but using a manual drill.


Muchos saludos, Karl

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Karl : thanks for your post. This, my first effort at rigging a “complicated” ship, is still a learning experience as I move along, and fairly confusing at best. Yes your suggestion will also be incorporated. Thanks for your thoughts.


That area will be much more involved than the just (finally) completed bow section. All those ropes were easy to place, and pin-holes were not hiding (;-).


Yes, I did some preliminary rope installations at the foremast section and, as I had mentioned - not enough pin-holes. I will add pins to tighten up the lines and also need to avoid crossing things up. Also Karl I am using the rigging sheets that you sent me (Billings), along with the Vasa museum profile sheet - almost ignoring the Corel sheets. In any case - when the Vasa II book is published whatever I do will be wrong - Not an issue for me any more. Just want to make sure that all lines don't cross each other up. Also with furled sails I need to be cautious how I locate certain lines (inside or outside other sail lines)


B,E. As always thanks for your continued visits – Your suggestion is very plausible. Much appreciated – I had not thought of that – thanks for your kind words as well.


So I have completed the bow section. I promise that these photos will be the last from there !!


As always mates thanks so much for your advice, and likes.





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