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Allo everyone!

My name is Maxx and I'm new to model ship building. I'm a rc sailing passionate and since I started I dream of making a tall ship and sail it.

So I bought a Norske Love 1/75 from Billing. So far so good but I know there will be a time when I need experienced people to help me.

Anyone else make their ship radio controlled?

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Great start 👍

:sign:

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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Welcome to MSW Maxx,  Your project looks to be very interesting and a big challenge! 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Hi, Maxx! We encourage our members to tag there RC builds with the word "radio." If you click here, you'll see what we've got so far. A few of them are even tallships, like your own project.

 

Good luck!

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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Welcome to MSW, Maxx.   Follow Chris's advice as to other projects and also start a build log.  The log is a great way to get help.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Maxx,

 

I have zero experience with RC,  so everything I write about this is a layman's theory.

I suspect that this is another Dennis Moore situation.

 

It seems that in every case - the physics / hydrodynamics of a floating model when under sail does not directly translate to how the actual vessel behaved on water ? 

Wind is also a sort of fluid in this situation and the safe range is more of a log function than a linear one? (The safe range is narrow?)

Much more ballast is needed?  

The degree of heeling allowed for a model of a larger vessel  before it will not recover is almost nil?

The hulls are either much deeper and way out of scale or there is wing below the keel. Either one tends to make a model sort of a pig when viewed on shore?  (A very personal judgement since esthetics is not something that fits a formula.)

 

Easy access to the bilge after a session is  important?

It is probably a really good thing for the bulk of the water proofing to be on the inside of the hull?

POB is probably about the least efficient and most troublesome method to use to fabricate a floating hull.

( My solo bias is that POF with zero spaces is probably the user friendly fabrication method for an age of sail hull that is intended to take to the water. ) (A hollowed out loaf of sliced bread.)

 

As with modern full size replicas, if you intend much time on the water with it, an electric version of a Volvo Penta would make control and recovery less frustrating.

 

If this is more than a whim,    a topsail schooner  as a first ( you probably already have sloop down pat )  and then a brig, before wrestling with a three master (4 with the bow spars). 

 

 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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4 hours ago, Maxx Brodeur said:

you don't think it's going to work?

Not exactly - will not work - more that it may be a lot more complicated than it first appears to be.

I have a Model Boats catalog of plans from about 1970.  It has a lot of plans for pond boats and competition craft.

About every one had an under water body that was unattractive.  I suspect that there is a serious reason that such designs were done.

 

While it may not be felicitous for first contact to be a warning that you may be in a mine field, it does not change the situation concerning the mines.   I took it that by posting photos - you were inviting comments.

Often, when I make comments like in the post above, others, who were much more informed and experienced jump in and clarify the situation.  The result of the scrum is usually a lot of helpful information.

 

My intention was to meet the first lesson in The Parable of the Frozen Russian Bird.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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:sign:

Start so you can Finish !!

Finished:            The  Santa Maria -Amati 1:65, La Pinta- Amati 1:65, La Nina -Amati 1:65 ,                                                 Hannah Ship in Bottle-Amati 1:300 : The Sea of Galilee Boat-Scott Miller-1:20

Current Build:   The Mayflower: Amati 

On Hold:            HMS Pegasus: Amati 

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  • 5 months later...

To Maxx...if you are still interested...

 

Re: "The hulls are either much deeper and way out of scale or there is wing below the keel. Either one tends to make a model sort of a pig when viewed on shore?  (A very personal judgement since esthetics is not something that fits a formula.)"

 

Solution:  Make the scale sailing hull you want.  Deeper draft hulls are better because they give you more room below deck and can carry more ballast.  The larger/longer the hull...the better the sailing characteristics...less corking/hobby horsing.  Water proof the hull.  Make hatches to be as large as possible to access the RC gear below deck.  To obtain windward performance and scale hull appearance, make a detachable keel.  Keep your build as light as possible and put all ballast needed for the Load Water Line at the bottom of the keel.

 

Attached picture shows a 25 pound detachable keel for a three masted schooner.   Threaded rods are glued into the keel and pass through the keel of the model in tubes and then are secured with wing nuts.  This model can carry an additional 25 pounds of internal ballast.

 

The limit to the size of you model is in lifting and transportation restrictions.

false keel.jpg

Great Schooner Model Society @ Sargetnt Cove 081119 b.JPG

"So we beat on, boats against the current, borne back ceaselessly into the past."

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Welcome on board, and good luck with the RC job.  It looks like FUN and a CHALLENGE, which will be interesting for all of us.  Please make a build log and keep us all up to date on your voyage!

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