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Cutting out gun ports


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I frame out the gunport before applying the hull planking.  You can use a stick, cut to the correct dimensions, to act as a template to build the gunport around.

Toni


Chairman Nautical Research Guild

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Current Builds:     NRG Rigging Project

Completed Builds: Longboat - 1:48 scale       HMS Atalanta-1775 - 1:48 scale       Half Hull Planking Project      Capstan Project     Swallow 1779 - 1:48 scale               Echo Cross Section   

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Wife asked me to put drain holes in a container she had dragged in to plant something in, used a 22 revolver to make the drain holes. After that she used her own revolver for such chores, might try that, shoot a hole in the bulwarks or side, run a jig saw blade through it, attach the blade to a saw, and have at it.  If done carefully, you can do both sides at once and save ammo.  :pirate41:

Edited by jud
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Is the hull solid, plank on frame or plank on bulkhead?  Not unlike Jud's method, but for modelers without firearms, if all the planking is up, draw the location of the ports exactly where they should be.  Keep in mind that if multi-decked, the ports on the lower deck are larger than those on the next deck up and so on to the QD and FC.

 

Once the openings are marked, drill VERY SMALL holes just inside the line.  Then cut with a scalpel or a scalpel and keyhole saw (small ones for Xacto work well)  combination.  Use a plug the right size as suggested by Toni and file or use sanding sticks to open the port to the proper size.  Once done add the sills top and bottom and the linings on the bottom and sides.  There were USUALLY no stops on the top of the port but we have seen a couple contemporary models at RMG and I think Preble Hall that have them on all four surfaces.

 

Cheers

Allan

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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An aspect of gunports that seems to be often missed:

The sides of the ports are parallel to the frames, not perpendicular to the LWL.

The sills and lintels are parallel to the deck at the port location.  In the middle there is little or no difference port to port.  At the ends, each port is individual in shape.

The ports are parallelograms with vertical sides.  A stick used as a gauge for every port on a particular deck produces an inauthentic result.

The gun truck or skid sits on the deck.  The barrel tracks parallel to the deck.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Hi Jaager

You are of course absolutely correct  but I doubt many builders will follow this, especially at the smaller scales.  

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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5 hours ago, allanyed said:

Is the hull solid, plank on frame or plank on bulkhead?  Not unlike Jud's method, but for modelers without firearms, if all the planking is up, draw the location of the ports exactly where they should be.  Keep in mind that if multi-decked, the ports on the lower deck are larger than those on the next deck up and so on to the QD and FC.

 

Once the openings are marked, drill VERY SMALL holes just inside the line.  Then cut with a scalpel or a scalpel and keyhole saw (small ones for Xacto work well)  combination.  Use a plug the right size as suggested by Toni and file or use sanding sticks to open the port to the proper size.  Once done add the sills top and bottom and the linings on the bottom and sides.  There were USUALLY no stops on the top of the port but we have seen a couple contemporary models at RMG and I think Preble Hall that have them on all four surfaces.

 

Cheers

Allan

it is a plank on bulkhead.

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  • Solution

Theory here:

 

It is difficult to get an acceptable finish on a gunport by cutting it and finishing the sides of the cut.

It may be a successful procedure to make the opening oversize and inserting a frame of a sill and lintel and having a veneer layer where the frame timbers would be.

If you are set on all rectangular openings, the same jig can be used for every port on a particular deck to glue up the framing.  It is then a matter of shimming each frame.  If the frames are mounted before placing the outside planking, .....

 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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 I cut squares matching the port dimensions from blue tape and applied them to where I wanted the port openings to be. I then used an Exacto knife with a chisel blade (see photo) and small hammer to cut out around the tape. It's a slow process and it required a good quantity of blades but it worked. Always practice on a scrap piece of wood first. 

 

image.png.37e1440457b2e7f1196ac7245ebdb8b2.png

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