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Lowell Grand Banks Dory by Wookiewithacamera - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale - First Build


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Wookie, I don't think you have wasted your time or money. You are learning some important things, though maybe not realizing it in real time. One of the things I learned constructing this model was to get excess glue off before it sets. My dory shows some. . . my next model did not.

 

The solution that Druxy offered does work, I've done it. 

 

Don't forget that you have very good clamps available- your fingers! It does not take that long for white or yellow glue to set.

 

At the risk of sounding preachy, try to enjoy your time building. After all, you're not at work, you're at play! Have fun. It took me a while to get this, and the funny part is my work improved when I did.

 

Best, Bob

 

 

 

 

Edited by bobandlucy
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Log 8.5

 

Continuing I've started to use a nail Emory board to sand the top edges together to be level across the entire sheer. Upon reaching the transom I remembered that the planks are approximately half a plank off from port - starboard. Which would require half of the starboard to be sanded off in order to be level with the port, which would make the Band, non-existent in the stern. As the instructions required adding bands, to sand them together. Which is understandable, but compiles the problems further.

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I am reaching the point of no return, I believe. The issues, even after fixing most, still continue to read their ugly head. Without completely manufacturing new parts (garboard, mid, sheer strakes, transom, band), I don't see much point in continuing the effort on the current parts. I don't plan giving up the hobby, but the current Dory seems to be further gone than originally thought. It says online that the Norwegian Sailing Pram planks like a Dory, but has a keel. While the thought of a keel is a pleasant change of pace. I don't know how I feel about it planking like a Dory. Mr Frank Mastini seems to think you should start on a quality model, that doesn't break bank, makes you happy, but isn't too large or ornate in the stern. This way if thinking makes me want to skip over the pram and start on my Midwest Products Co. Sharpie Schooner.

I will continue reading and think on this further. Its time to grab some lunch so I don't add being grumpy to the list. 

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38 minutes ago, bobandlucy said:

Don't forget that you have very good clamps available- your fingers! It does not take that long for white or yellow glue to set.

I was holding the transom together for approximately 20 minutes and when I let go it pulled apart. This happened after regluing about 3 times. So I did super glue.

 

I definitely consider the Dory a learning experience. I've learned that I need to pay attention to both sides when planking a Dory, to ensure that both sides are matching and even. I also think not putting a rolling bevel on my garboard strake may have started the issue early on. I am upset that I cannot finish what I started, that always bugs me. But the material cant be replaced at this point. The lessons I've learned will definitely be applied going forward in the hobby. I will not underestimate tiny things in the future. 

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The Sharpie Schooner was my second model and I enjoyed it a lot (first was the Chesapeake Bay Flattie by Midwest as well). Both side planks of the sharpie are single pieces of wood and I think I recall some cleverness clamping the stern. I very much enjoyed the model though. I think it might plank closer to a flat bottomed hull in this regard though. I have a pdf of the directions (… I think) that I could send you to take a look at if you wanted to check them out before deciding on a path forward. 

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Log 9 - Rough Completion.

 

After much thought I decided to give it a try and finish the Dory. At this point I never want to see a Dory again. Haha. As I thought before, the port and starboard sides not being lined up made it impossible to level the sheer. So I sanded off the char near the transom and stopped. I soaked the gunwales, and the cap rails. I applied the Breast book, but it looks nothing like the manual, and is far too small. I attempted to make one, but the wood snapped along the grain. So I ended up just using the included, tiny breast hook. When laying the cap rail, the stem shape didn't fit in the precut notches for the cap rail. Some slight sanding made it fit. When attempting to match the port side cap rail, the end snapped off. Just wanting to finish at this point I glued it down, but it doesn't meet the rest of the cap rail. I mounted some of the seats, but they all needed cutting, sanding and making new slots. As my frames broke many times in the first few steps, they ended up not being plumb for the last step. This was expected.

 

 

 

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I am still wondering if I should do the Pram next, or the schooner. I believe when I looked at the Pram, it was essentially a Dory style shape, flat bottom with a sail and rigging. Not feeling particularly motivated to do another flat bottom, when I don't have adequate clamps for the upside down building style. So I really think the schooner would be a better experience.

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From the pictures it looks pretty decent, excited to see you finish this one out! And looking forward to your take on the sharpie, be sure to check out the logs on here. I took a lot of inspiration from @Azzoun 

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Hey, WWAC, for a first model, that is pretty respectable! And, imprtantly, you completed it. Sure, there were frustrating moments and you are probably you own worst critic but, as Bob pointed out, you've learned a lot from building this model. So, take a bow and a pat on the back.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Congratulations on finishing your first wooden ship model.  You have done what a lot of first time ship modelers have not done and that is to complete the build.  You faced many problems during the build, but you learned to overcome and work around the problems.  I bet that there are a lot of builds that have wood inserted into gaps, wood filler added to spots and paint covering mistakes that you would never know about.  The main thing is you did not give up and I applaud you for this.  You have learned a lot and I look forward to seeing your next build as you will find an improvement in your skills.

Ryland

 

Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

            - Ship Model Society of New Jersey

               - Nautical Research Guild

       

 

Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat

Completed Build - Medway Longboat

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So after much thought. I took my disappointing Dory and made some changes. Since it was a rough build, chocked full of mistakes and irreversible damage, I made it a derelict Dory. She's now seen better days. Weathering, rotting, faded paint and damaged planks, battens, cap rail etc. All my mistakes and disappointments now harnessed for something I can now look ok with positive feelings. Wood was aged and cracked using a wire brush, oil washes applied, faded wood color, green tint, remnants of a green trim, brown wash, and white highlights. Had the wife not tossed out the box, I probably would have made one or two of the oars. I might still, from scratch. But I found my dremels' tip didn't open large enough for planks or dowels to use it as a lathe. 

 

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You have done an excellent job creating a worn out beat up dory.

If you removed your hand and changed the setting for your photos I could easily believe it was the real deal.

Fantastic.

Well done (BZ)

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

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