HMS Bounty Launch by Oakheart - FINISHED - Scale 1:24 – 18th century - based on drawings from National Maritime Museum

[oakheart]

So I just made a drum from some aluminium rod about 10 mm dia.

used some sandpaper from a 120 grit sticky back sanding disc cut to size. 

 

Thanks for tip on speed.

When I ran it fast and tried to hog off too much, the rod heated up, the sticky back melted and let go.

so I cut a new piece of the sandpaper, slowed the speed down to about 1200 rpm, took much lighter cuts of about 0.1 mm per push / pull through.
The useful thing about using the mill table is I can tell how much I have dialed down the thickness for each pass.

It takes about 5 'cuts' to go from 1.5mm to 1.0 mm thickness

that's much better, I do have to be careful to make the push / pull consistant or I  get dips in the plank.

 

I definitely need to get the dust collector fixed uo on this set up.

 

I know what I am doing tomorrow.

 

TIm

[oakheart]

This morning I realized I was getting ahead of myself, I need to cut the frames and base first, then do the planks.
It's easy to get over excited and get carried away. Well I find that I do. 🤪

So the rest of the frames are cut out, having a cup of tea then I will sand them to size.

 

Tim

[oakheart]

So after my tea break here they are, a landmark for me.

 

 

This is with the plywood keel that I will use while fairing the frames.

It's difficult getting all of the frames fitted into the keel, a bit like having taken a clock to bits and trying to get it back together

 

 

I think that will do for today.

 

Tim

 

[Wintergreen]

Nice, it looks good and even to me.

When it comes to fairing I would chalk the edge that should remain and not be sanded. Then you know if you are overdoing it or not.

Keep it up!

[oakheart]

13 minutes ago, Wintergreen said:

Nice, it looks good and even to me.

Thanks for the encouragement. I like the chalk idea, it's a shame I don't have any laser char to guide me 🤐

 

Tim

[allanyed]

Very neat workmanship Tim.   Are you using the scantlings for dimensioning your timber or stock sizes of wood?   Regardless, from the photos everything looks really close to scale and looks great.  

Allan

 

[oakheart]

14 minutes ago, allanyed said:

Very neat workmanship Tim.   Are you using the scantlings

Thanks for the compliment. I have used measurements directly off the ZAZ7361 drawings ( ha ha against ingrained brainwashing ), would they be different from those on your scantlings list.

The futtocks are 2.4mm square to be correct they should be 2.1and tapered, but they became too flimsy so I beefed them up.

If I used 2mm plywood it might work, or I could try the bent square section like you did.

I will stick with this as my first build and see how it works out. 

Your description of the gunwale on your build log really help me to understand how the top of the planks should go together.

 

Tomorrow I will make some tick strips and cut some 1 mm cardboard planks to start setting out my planking

 

Tim 

 

 

 

Edited January 11, 2023 by oakheart

[druxey]

Rather than chalk, I use lead pencil.

[allanyed]

28 minutes ago, oakheart said:

measurements directly off the ZAZ7361 drawings

My priorities have usually been as-built drawings, contract, design drawings (as you are using) and scantlings in that order if based on the Shipbuilder's Repository,  Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture and The Boats of Men of War.   If the time period is covered by scantlings found in the 1719, 1745. or 1750 Establishments I would put the scantlings ahead of the design drawings.  It is more often than not a combination, but still keeping those priorities in mind where there is a conflict of information. The scantlings I listed in my launch build log are based on the same drawing you mention, where available, and those found in  The Boats of Men of War where dimensions are not available or if the parts are not shown such as the ears, gunwale and knees to name a few.

Allan

Edited January 11, 2023 by allanyed

[Wintergreen]

59 minutes ago, druxey said:

Rather than chalk, I use lead pencil.

Well, yes, kind of what I meant. Good correction there Allan. 🙂 

Not being a native speaker makes for some odd choice of word from time to time. Trying my best 🙂 

Cheers!

[allanyed]

2 hours ago, Wintergreen said:

Good correction there Allan. 🙂

Hi Håkan

I think you were referencing Druxey's post, but either way, the idea is an excellent one from both of you no matter the name we call the instrument being used😀 

Allan

[oakheart]

After reading loads of the planking tutorials on here and watching chucks videos etc. etc.. I still have questions.

For the Garboard Strake ( the plank next to the keel ),
1: How do I work out the curve for the stem end?
2: How do I work out how far forward should it be?

 

Here is the one that Craig did for his 16ft cutter, even scaled the curve in not right for my 1:24 23ft launch

 

I could just use the cardboard template I have made and keep hacking at it until I get something that fits, but is there a better way?

 

Tim

 

 

 

 

[Gregory]

While Chuck provided spiled planks in his Medway Longboat, it is my go-to for planking these type of boat.

 

 

 

Particularly the garboard.  A good guide is for it to run to where the stem just starts to curve up..

 

Chuck has made the monograph chapters available at Syren..  A great resource.

 

https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/medway-longboat-1742.php

 

You will see a good example of how to establish the bending of the plank.  It has to be done by spiling.

 

 

[oakheart]

4 minutes ago, Gregory said:

Particularly the garboard.  A good guide is for it to run to where the stem just starts to curve up..

Chuck has made the monograph chapters available at Syren..  A great resource.

 Hi Gregory, thanks for dropping in, I was just going through your build this morning, very nice. I have picked a load of good details already, thank you for sharing your build with us newbies.

I will down load those docs and read through them.

 

I am really having fun working out how to progress with this build.
With all the help I am getting it may even get finished.

 

Tim

[oakheart]

You can probably tell, for this scratch build I have been heavily influenced by Chucks longboat kit design ( Thanks  Chuck ), the jig base and other elements are a direct copy.
This is not a pirate copy honest!

 

Tim

[Gregory]

Chuck is generous with his skills and knowledge.

The instructions for the kits he designed at Syren and ModelShipways are practicums, worth the cost of many kits.

[oakheart]

While fairing the frames  today I was thinking about what Bligh and the crew may have done to make the canvas screen round the edge of the boat...

As Purcell the ship's carpenter had his saws he could have sawn up bits of the boat to make parts for the screen. 

Did the just use a low strip all the way around, sort of like a canvas washboard 

or

did they use big sheets of canvas fixed at the gunwale  then up to the rigging to keep the worst of the constant splash from the big waves.

Did they catch rainwater in canvas sheets . Use four oars fixed upright in a square with canvas across the top, hole in the middle with a bucket in under the hole.

now the mind races away, how will I model this ?

nobody knows what they did so I can make up anything that I think might have worked, could be fun.

 

Does anyone have any other ideas?

Okay back to the sandpapering now.

 

Tim 

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

36 minutes ago, oakheart said:

today I was thinking about what Bligh and the crew may have done

Canvas catches the wind, often in undesirable ways.

 

I would guess the canvas screen was around a foot high with another foot below. And the rain catcher, a canvas sheet held by four men in the shape of a scoop. They probably had a low piece of canvas as a sun shield that they used to catch water when it rained.

[druxey]

For planking information, check the pinned articles on this very site! Another source is the book on open boat construction:

 

https://seawatchbooks.com/products/the-greenwich-hospital-barge-of-1832-and-methods-of-building-open-boats-by-david-antscherl?_pos=6&_fid=1cc675229&_ss=c

[oakheart]

9 hours ago, druxey said:

For planking information, check the pinned articles on this very site! Another source is the book on open boat construction:

Thanks for the links, I have read the articles on this site along with others, the book seems to cover a clinker built hull, which although of interest may not help with this launch which is carvel planked.

There are some amazing videos of full size planking builds on YouTube. Again interesting but difficult to translate to model making.

 

Tim

[oakheart]

The frames are now pretty fair. So working on my planking,.

I have made some progress using cardboard templates then transferring the shape to basswood sheet.

I am finding it easier to cut and sand the basswood to fit than cut / trim the card.

So I may just waste some of my basswood sheet to make set of masters. Then cut the hero parts from those.

 

I am now even more in awe of how the kit makers like Chuck Passaro and Chris Watton manage to design and produce their kits.

Hats off to you guys.

 

Tim

[oakheart]

12 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

Canvas catches the wind, often in undesirable ways.

I love all of those ideas, just need to get the hull complete, then try some of them out

 

Tim

[oakheart]

Here is a couple of photos of the planking templates I've been working on.

 

 

They are not glued in place, just held by the clamps, lots of adjustments to make before I commit to the good wood.

Also I have not cut the rabbet yet.
I have read on this site about not needing to do that?

 

Comments please.................

 

This is fiddly,  I don't think I could do this at 1:48 like Allan is building I would become a nervous wreck.

 

 

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

7 hours ago, oakheart said:

Comments please.................

Make up your mind now as adding a rabbet will change the shape of your planks!

[druxey]

The book covers carvel as well!

[Gregory]

You can get by without the rabbet by fitting the garboard flush with the keel. 

However you haven't established a bearding line which  is where the planking merges with the sternpost.

In the rough version of your image, the red shows how the keel would run to the stern post, the the blue line is the garboard ( 1st ) plank, followed by the 2nd.

The bearding line would merge with the rabbet if it were present so the ends of the planks are flush with the keel and stern post.

 

Here is another example from Chuck's Medway where I have penciled in a rough bearding area.  The bearding line is defined where the bottom of the frames  in the stern area meet the keel/deadwood area.

Edited January 14, 2023 by Gregory

[oakheart]

1 hour ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

Make up your mind now as adding a rabbet will change the shape of your planks!

Hmm, all I want is a good looking model, will it make a difference which way I go?

 

I am tempted by the no rabbet idea.

Most of the time the model will be viewed from above and the join between the keel and the plank will not show as a dark shadow.

If I cut a rabbet the join will show as a shadow line.

As long as I can get a good bevel on the planks, I think the no rabbet would look better

 

When I made models to be photographed all I wanted to achieve was something that looked good to the camera lens, what the eye did not see was not important.

 

Tim

[oakheart]

1 minute ago, Gregory said:

The bearding line is defined where the bottom of the frames  in the stern area meet the keel.

Thanks for your input, but this is a different model, the planking does not go over the deadwood, this was discussed previously on ? Allans build ?

 

Tim

[Wintergreen]

11 hours ago, oakheart said:

The frames are now pretty fair

Hi there! Before you're too far... a friendly advice. I think you need to do some more fairing of the forward bulkheads. 

I allowed myself to do some editing in your picture. 

The red line should describe a nice spline/arc, instead of as now, an indexed line. If you work a little more where I've made some ugly black scrathces, the planks will have a much better "run" over the bulkheads. Use a soft spline 2x2 mm or something too see when it is in touch with the entire width of the bulkhead and be cautious not to sand the aft end as that is your hull form line (or what to call it).

Keep it up!

[oakheart]

24 minutes ago, Wintergreen said:

Hi there! Before you're too far... a friendly advice. I think you need to do some more fairing of the forward bulkheads. 

Hi Hakan

Thank you, I will try to do a bit more fairing before I proceed. I will use a piece of wood and not card to give me a better idea

 

Tim