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USS Constitution by AndyMech - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1:93 - Cross-Section


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Ok, I finally took some pictures to show the fighting top contruction and the mast shaping.

 

First, the fighting top:

 

Here's the bare plywood - it was fairly warped, but I got it as flat as I could with soaking and pressing between plates of glass.  Next, is planking on the top side, adding the ribs and finally the edging - two planks of 0.5mm walnut bent around the edge.

 

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While I was working on the top, I also started on the mast shaping.  I squared off the top of the lower mast by clamping in a vise and sanding down each of the 4 sides.  I also added cheeks and the fish, deviating slightly from the plans here, but it matches better my Revell Constitution.  This is also pretty similar to the method on the Syren.  Next up, I need to add in the mast bands (I've bought some thin tape), and paint it all white.

 

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Last bit of work was the crosstrees higher on the mast - I squared off the upper mast, but it wasn't even close to fitting through the crosstrees.  So, I used a dremel to remove the center metal piece, and fabricated a wood one.  Then, I notched the mast top so I could slide the new piece in.  These are just dry-fitted, but when glued I think it'll be nice and strong.

 

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post-308-0-32435000-1394909739_thumb.jpg

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The fighting top looks very good. Nice work.

 

I am not sure what to tell you about the trestle trees. I would have made a new set to fit the mast, but you managed to get them fitted well enough. Nice job .

 

Russ

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Nice progress Andy, thanks for the photos...

John

Current Current Builds:

US Brig Niagara on my website

FINISHED BUILD LOGS:

New Bedford Whaleboat - page on my Morgan Website:  http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com/whaleboat-build-log-by-john-fleming.html

C.W. Morgan - Model Shipways 1:64 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1785-cw-morgan-by-texxn5-johnf-ms-164-kit/

USS Constitution - Revell 1:96 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1796-uss-constitution-by-texxn5-johnf-revell-196-kit/

 

website US Brig Niagara Model http://www.niagaramodel.com

website Charles W Morgan Model http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com

website PROXXON DISCOUNT TOOL STORE http://proxxontoolsdiscount.com

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  • 3 weeks later...

The latest work has been all about prepping the mast pieces.  I tapered all the yards and spars last Friday, using the drill and sandpaper method - worked pretty well, but took all day for all 11 pieces.

 

post-308-0-15365800-1396652218_thumb.jpg

 

I also created the topgallant part of the main mast, the same way:

 

post-308-0-16506100-1396652219_thumb.jpg

 

I spent most of today making the railing for the fighting top - drilling holes and filing etc.  Nothing is glued yet - I plan to use CA to glue the wood to metal, so I want to paint first.  Which will be tomorrow.

 

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This is the Fid for the top mast - a piece of piano wire left over from my last project.  I'll paint all this white as the mast is white here.

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Finally, the top mast is glued into place with the supports.

post-308-0-12327200-1396652222_thumb.jpg

 

Andy.

 

 

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Today I painted the fighting top and added it's railing.  I did the inside floor of it gray, which matches my Revell Constitution, and I like the contrast with the white elsewhere.  The gray took only 3 coats to cover, while the white takes about 9-10.  It could be my white paint has been thinned too often, but at least the end results are ok.

 

Tomorrow, I paint the lower mast - you guessed it - white.  It will probably take all day.

 

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Andy.

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Coming together nicely, Andy

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Thanks for the comments.  Much appreciated.  Today, I painted the mast pieces white where appropriate, and then assembled and glued them all together.

 

Here's the lower mast, partially painted.  I used a Testors masking tape in a very narrow width to simulate the bands, which look pretty good once painted.

 

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It's difficult to notice here, but the fighting top was not level once I glued it on.  I had to break the glue bond, scrape away some material on the support, and re-glue.  I'll take a photo once the glue dries and I re-paint the white.

 

Andy.

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The paint and the bands look good. I have used masking tape like that on several models and it works fine so long as you are painting it. Yours looks very convincing. Nice work.

 

Russ

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Nice catch on fighting top.  Painted tape looks great.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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I filled tiny gaps by making sliver planks and glued them in small gaps. I did better with that than homemade filler (sawdust and CA).

 

Looks real good, though!

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Ok, now that my mast is done, I didn't really know what to tackle next.  My first thought was to work on the yards and spars - adding some center ribbing on the lower yards, etc.  Then, I noticed that the channels for my limited number of deadeyes seemed way too small for the metal ring that surrounds the deadeye to go through.

 

Sure enough, following the directions in this case was totally the wrong thing to do.  So, I spend the weekend fixing it, as best I could.

 

First, I removed the channel plank that is at the end - so I could get access to the slots.  Then, I filed them to be larger, and attempted to fit them all in.  I tried blackening the metal deadeyes, with the wood block in place, with no luck, and ended up just painting them.

 

Also, the kit puts these deadeyes too close together, so I had to file the ends just to make them fit (see photo).  Overall, I was very frustrated with this step, and am not really happy with the kit design here or my result.  I will add some wipe-on-poly to the deadeyes to make them look better, but anyone working on this kit should be aware of this at some point.

 

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So, next, I guess I'll return to the yards - it's either that or set the mast and install the shrouds and I'm not sure I'm up for that yet.

 

Andy.

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Guest Tim I.

Your build is looking great! I also ad some difficulty with this step. I also was not happy with the quality of the directions and the fittings of the kit.

 

Cheers,

 

Tim

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Thanks, Tim. I'm glad I'm not the only one unhappy with the kit at this point. Hopefully this is the worst of it, and I can proceed with yards next.

 

Andy

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Thanks Geoff, much appreciated.

 

I've decided to remove the chain links I installed over the weekend.  The kit-supplied ones were too large, even though the photos might not show it, they stuck up above the deadeye shroud and looked strange.  I bought some 0.025inch "music wire" from a hobby shop, as I couldn't find decent wire anywhere else - using 28-gauge wire seemed far too small and flimsy.  I'm currently in process of bending the new wire to the correct size and putting it in place.  I probably won't have time to finish until this weekend.  

 

Expect new photos then, and you all can decide if I've improved the model or not. Hah.  Probably not, as this wire is super strong and hard to bend, but it should really hold those deadeyes in place once it's in.

 

Andy.

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Not much time this weekend, but I finished re-doing the chain links with the new wire.  I'm not super happy with the final result, but it will have to do.  Ripping them out again would probably do more damage than leaving them in.

 

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post-308-0-47299700-1398025745_thumb.jpg

 

Andy.

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Hi Andy.

She is looking very nice. :)

And very nice work on the masting.

 

Regards Antony.

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

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Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

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Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

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Thanks Antony, I appreciate the comment.

 

Next up in the build is avoidance  :( .  I need to either assemble and yards with rigging, blocks, etc. or install the main mast and most likely add the shrouds.

 

Avoidance means I'm scared to put the mast in - I'll glue it to the mast support in the lower hull, but I probably only get one chance to get it right as it's a tight fit through the holes in the decks.  So, I'll probably start on the yards - adding stirrups and blocks.  Much poring over plans is required to understand all the blocks to tie.  The plans are pretty difficult here as well, hence more hesitation.

 

Some days, it feels like all I do is study the plans for 3 hours, then do one little thing.  At some point, I need to dive in and do it.

 

Hopefully you'll see an update this weekend...

 

Andy.

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Andy, think about not gluing the mast in - the rigging should hold it securely in place and lets you avoid having to hit it on the first shot.

 

====================================

Currently building: Model Expo AMERICA, A/L KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI

 

Completed: Mamoli Victory cross-section, Revell LSM (Plastic, in memory of Dad), A/L SANSON tug, MS Longboat (awesome model Chuck!), Dumas 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing runabout, A/L SWIFT, MS ELSIE, Constructo ELIDIR (now LOUISE), Midwest Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, Amati 1:80 Yacht ENDEAVOUR, Mamoli CONSTITUTION cross section, Revell VIIc U-boat (1:72 plastic), lotsa other plastic ships 

 

Next up: who knows - there are too many to choose from!

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Andy I feel your pain on the point you're at, I'm lock step with you on my Victory cross section and trying to sort things out.  I spent most of Sunday just working out what to do next and seize 10 deadeyes.  The quality of your work so far speaks for itself slow and steady wins the race.

Current Build

Rattlesnake

 

Previous Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HMS Victory cross section

 

 

 

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Well, I decided to work on the yards.  First was to add the ribbing to the 2 lowest (and largest) yards.  The plans indicated to use walnut 1x2 (mm) to create the ribbing, but I only had enough wood for the main yard.  I had to use some 1x4 wood for the upper yard, after splitting it in half to create 1x2 pieces.

 

These are rough pictures before final sanding.  I've also added 3 coats of wipe-on-poly and they will be painted black.

 

post-308-0-92376900-1398629111_thumb.jpg

 

post-308-0-53998000-1398629112_thumb.jpg

 

post-308-0-37950600-1398629113_thumb.jpg

 

Next, I wanted to construct the topmost yard, as it's the simplest.  First though, I needed to figure out which blocks to attach to it.  After reading through the plans, it was determined that the kit comes with 3 sizes of single sheave blocks - 3mm, 4mm and 5mm.  The 3mm ones go on the highest yard (makes sense), they were pretty good quality.

 

The 4mm and 5mm blocks that the kit provided were, well, here's a photo:

 

post-308-0-42637200-1398629114_thumb.jpg

 

The thought of trying to sand these monstrosities filled me with despair.  Instead, I order a batch of 4mm and 5mm blocks from Chuck's Syren Ship Company.  I'll have to wait until they arrive before proceeding with the larger block install.

 

I could, however, use the 3mm blocks and I tied them to the topmost yard and added the footropes:

 

post-308-0-92163300-1398629114_thumb.jpg

 

Andy.

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Guest Tim I.

Thanks Antony, I appreciate the comment.

 

Next up in the build is avoidance  :( .  I need to either assemble and yards with rigging, blocks, etc. or install the main mast and most likely add the shrouds.

 

Avoidance means I'm scared to put the mast in - I'll glue it to the mast support in the lower hull, but I probably only get one chance to get it right as it's a tight fit through the holes in the decks.  So, I'll probably start on the yards - adding stirrups and blocks.  Much poring over plans is required to understand all the blocks to tie.  The plans are pretty difficult here as well, hence more hesitation.

 

Some days, it feels like all I do is study the plans for 3 hours, then do one little thing.  At some point, I need to dive in and do it.

 

Hopefully you'll see an update this weekend...

 

Andy.

 

 

Andy,

 

I actually never glued my mainmast in place. I also was nervous and simply fed it down through the decks into the mast step and rigged it in place to hold it. That way if I needed to make a minor adjustment, that proved to work well since I had to re-align the mast after running my first shrouds for the ratlines.

 

Good luck on whatever you decide, I am sure it will look stellar!

 

- Tim

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Guest Tim I.

Well, I decided to work on the yards.  First was to add the ribbing to the 2 lowest (and largest) yards.  The plans indicated to use walnut 1x2 (mm) to create the ribbing, but I only had enough wood for the main yard.  I had to use some 1x4 wood for the upper yard, after splitting it in half to create 1x2 pieces.

 

These are rough pictures before final sanding.  I've also added 3 coats of wipe-on-poly and they will be painted black.

 

attachicon.gifP1050363.jpg

 

attachicon.gifP1050364.jpg

 

attachicon.gifP1050365.jpg

 

Next, I wanted to construct the topmost yard, as it's the simplest.  First though, I needed to figure out which blocks to attach to it.  After reading through the plans, it was determined that the kit comes with 3 sizes of single sheave blocks - 3mm, 4mm and 5mm.  The 3mm ones go on the highest yard (makes sense), they were pretty good quality.

 

The 4mm and 5mm blocks that the kit provided were, well, here's a photo:

 

attachicon.gifP1050369.jpg

 

The thought of trying to sand these monstrosities filled me with despair.  Instead, I order a batch of 4mm and 5mm blocks from Chuck's Syren Ship Company.  I'll have to wait until they arrive before proceeding with the larger block install.

 

I could, however, use the 3mm blocks and I tied them to the topmost yard and added the footropes:

 

attachicon.gifP1050374.jpg

 

Andy.

 

Yikes! I thought the blocks in my kit were bad.  :(

 

I had several sliver and break in half when I tried to use them. I had to order some from Model Shipways to replace some in my kit. However, Chuck's blocks will be much better!

 

- Tim

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I got the new blocks from the Syren Ship Company - the difference in quality is pretty amazing.

 

post-308-0-98371900-1399849504_thumb.jpg

 

After I got the blocks, I spent a lot of time last weekend tying them to the main mast.  It's so much easier to tie them on prior to setting the mast into the hull.  I didn't take any photos of that yet though.

 

Today, I worked on assembling the yard - attaching my new blocks, and the spars (this is the 3rd yard up - I forget the name).

 

Tying the blocks prior to trimming the thread ends.

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Final yard with spar tied in as well.

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post-308-0-25299400-1399849512_thumb.jpg

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The yard looks good. The block stropping looks very neatly done. Chuck's blocks make a big difference.

 

Russ

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wow, has it really been since May 11 as my last update?  Time sure does fly sometimes.

 

Well, work has been going, albeit slowly.  Now that end-of-school activities are over, and my daughter has graduated high school, I can finally post an update.

 

I've been working on the yards - there are 4 total (just the one mast obviously), and I've been attaching blocks, doing the footropes and adding the spars.

 

Here's the result:

 

post-308-0-23299900-1401637181_thumb.jpg

 

post-308-0-80989600-1401637181_thumb.jpg

 

post-308-0-15491300-1401637182_thumb.jpg

 

Next up, the part I've been dreading - the main mast insertion.  I'm pretty convinced that I won't need to glue it as it's a snug fit through the 3 decks and into the hull, and the shrouds should hold it in place as well.  I am a bit worried about the strength of the lower deadeyes, and I'm still working out in my head how to best attach the shrouds to the upper deadeyes, rig the two dead eyes and keep them all as even and level as I can.

 

Here's my thoughts on how to do it:

 

1.  Since there are only 3 shrouds per side, I was going to tie and seize the 4 lines at the mast top first (2 lines per side, one will go to the center deadeye, and the other will go to the two outer deadeyes)

2.  Make a wire jig to guide and attach the lower deadeye to the upper one

3.  Tie and seize (tightly) the shroud to the upper deadeye when it's held in place by the wire jig

4.  Remove the wire jig and add the rigging through the deadeyes.  I figure if I pull the rigging tight enough it will return the upper deadeye to it's jigged position.

5.  Repeat for all the other shroud/deadeyes - hoping this will result in a strong, level, even set.

 

If anyone has any advice or better ideas, I'm all ears.  

 

Andy.

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Nice, crisp work on getting those blocks deployed.  Looking forward to the erection of the mast!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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