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USS Constitution by AndyMech - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1:93 - Cross-Section


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Well, not that Augie can predict the future or anything, but I really had no choice but to erect the mast.  After adding one more minor feature to the lowest yard, there was no more reason to procrastinate.

 

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I also seized the shrouds over the mast ran the lines towards the deadeyes.  I'm using 0.8mm black line instead of the tan line provided with the kit.

 

post-308-0-21710500-1401658639_thumb.jpg

 

post-308-0-82321500-1401658639_thumb.jpg

 

Finally,here's a shot of the simple jig to hold the upper deadeye in place as it's seized.

 

post-308-0-22073900-1401658640_thumb.jpg

 

Andy.

 

 

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I don't believe she could stand any straighter!  NICE!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Guest Tim I.

Your cross-section is looking good.

 

I was not happy with the quality of the fittings and blocks in this kit. It makes me skeptical on if I will attempt another Mamoli kit in the future.

 

Despite the kits limitations, you are making the build shine!

 

- Tim

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The main mast (ha!  only mast) is now securely in place - no glue needed.

 

I had tied the shrouds to the top last week, and this week I got them secured to the deadeyes - nice and tight.  I'm still kind of unhappy with the deadeyes and the chains, but they are secure, and I've tightened them as much as I dare - making sure to keep the mast straight.

 

This first picture is using the wire jig to keep the spacing correct while seizing the shroud around the eye.

 

post-308-0-31798300-1402262740_thumb.jpg

 

post-308-0-92248600-1402262740_thumb.jpg

 

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post-308-0-14969100-1402262742_thumb.jpg

 

Next is either doing ratlines or working on the upper shrouds.  I'll study the plans tonight and see.

 

Andy.

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The shroud, deadeye, lanyard setup looks good. Very neatly done. That spacing jig is always a good idea.

 

Russ

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Guest Tim I.

The main mast (ha!  only mast) is now securely in place - no glue needed.

 

I had tied the shrouds to the top last week, and this week I got them secured to the deadeyes - nice and tight.  I'm still kind of unhappy with the deadeyes and the chains, but they are secure, and I've tightened them as much as I dare - making sure to keep the mast straight.

 

This first picture is using the wire jig to keep the spacing correct while seizing the shroud around the eye.

 

attachicon.gifP1050480.jpg

 

attachicon.gifP1050482.jpg

 

attachicon.gifP1050484.jpg

 

attachicon.gifP1050485.jpg

 

attachicon.gifP1050486.jpg

 

Next is either doing ratlines or working on the upper shrouds.  I'll study the plans tonight and see.

 

Andy.

 

 

Very nice!

 

- Tim

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Just checking in and looks terrific. We're RVing again and now in Monterey, Ca. I'll be back in the shipyard in Sept or Oct I guess. Glad to see you making progress. What's next....time for a wood ship my friend. Keep up the good work, I'll be checking in when I can.

John

Current Current Builds:

US Brig Niagara on my website

FINISHED BUILD LOGS:

New Bedford Whaleboat - page on my Morgan Website:  http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com/whaleboat-build-log-by-john-fleming.html

C.W. Morgan - Model Shipways 1:64 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1785-cw-morgan-by-texxn5-johnf-ms-164-kit/

USS Constitution - Revell 1:96 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1796-uss-constitution-by-texxn5-johnf-revell-196-kit/

 

website US Brig Niagara Model http://www.niagaramodel.com

website Charles W Morgan Model http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com

website PROXXON DISCOUNT TOOL STORE http://proxxontoolsdiscount.com

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Thanks for the comments and "likes" everyone.  Life and work has been busy of late, so I don't get a chance to browse through the logs as much as I'd like.

 

John - I suppose you mean a full wooden ship, not a cross section?  If so, I totally agree.  I purchased the Syren a few years ago, but I might do a simpler ship before that.  Not yet decided.  I'd like some experience with bulkheads and planking.  The planking in the cross section was all straight, non-curved, so very straightforward.

 

Working with wood on this cross section has been a great experience - I'm pretty sure I won't be doing plastic anytime in the future.

 

Andy.

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  • 1 month later...

It seems to have been forever since an update, and truth be told, I've been through a low-motivation period on the ship.

 

I have completed the ratlines, so to speak, as there are only 3 shrouds.  See the pictures below.  I struggled with them - trying to keep the shrouds straight was difficult.  It seems the knots wanted to move the shrouds closer together or further apart.

 

Technique:  I used a cow-hitch on the ends and a clove hitch in the middle.

 

post-308-0-61384400-1405891690_thumb.jpg

 

post-308-0-16465100-1405891691_thumb.jpg

 

post-308-0-91191200-1405891691_thumb.jpg

 

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Andy.

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Andy:

That looks pretty good. The knots look like they came out fine. The main thing is, are you satisfied with how it looks? You will always be your own worst critic. :)

 

Russ

 

 

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Thanks for the comment, Russ. I'm going to keep it; treat it as both a learning experience and also the need to move forward with the model. It looks worse in the photos than in person.

 

One thing I would do different, I think, would be to draw vertical lines onmh guide to mark the shroud locations.

 

Andy

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Andy:

The vertical lines would be a great help in keeping the shrouds aligned.

 

Russ

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  • 1 month later...

Once again, it's been a while since I've updated my log here.  After the ratlines were put in place, I've tried to add the futtock shrouds and then the upper shrouds, with their ratlines.  I think I did a little better here, but still could improve.

 

First, the futtock shrouds:

 

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Next are the upper shrouds. The first shot is the blocks loosely tied, next has them all tight and glued.

 

post-308-0-17269300-1410121705_thumb.jpg

 

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Finally, I've moved away from using the kitchen table into the newly freed up bedroom (my eldest child is now off to university, another reason progress has been slow)

 

post-308-0-74266100-1410121705_thumb.jpg

 

Having a space where I can leave things out makes for a more relaxed experience, and hopefully will let me make more frequent progress.  The lighting is a bit dim still; i think I need a floor lamp or brighter bulbs in the overhead.

 

Andy.

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Ahoy Andy :D

 

She really is coming along great. I love your rigging 

 

As for a light I found the clamp on fixture with the magnifier very helpful. I started with the cheap one Fry's sells and have since upgraded to the overpriced one Uline sells 

 

http://www.uline.com/BL_8980/Industrial-Illuminated-Magnifier

Edited by JPett

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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@JPett:  thanks for the thoughts on lighting.  I currently use a head-band magnifier, but a high-quality clamp light like you mentioned is worth considering.

 

@GuntherMT:  Thanks!  That little canoe was my first wood kit project and I made a few inevitable mistakes, but the overall look turned out pretty good.  The tung oil finish should probably take more credit than my skill.

 

Next up:  my last ratlines for this kit.  I think I'll be using a simple overhand knot for the end knots (instead of the cow-nose knot), but still use a clove-hitch for the internal knots.  I'll do my best to not warp the shrouds.  The shrouds have tension on them, but I'm afraid to tighten them more lest the deadeyes give way.

 

Finally, one last thing:  the knot I used for the stopper behind the upper deadeye was a "Stevedore stopper" which worked great.  I experimented with double-overhands and the figure-8 stoppers, but they weren't as effective - the stopper would pull through the deadeye hole under strain.   The Ashley stopper was good, but much harder to tie.  

 

Andy

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  • 2 weeks later...

The time since the last update was spent doing ratlines.  I find the process only a little tedious - the trick, for me, is to take frequent breaks.  Sometimes, I can just pop in the modelling room and do 2 or 4 in just 15-20 minutes and that lessens the overall "my gosh, there's a lot of ratlines!" impression.

 

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Next up are some of shrouds that go from the lower deadeyes up to the upper mast.  There should also be some sort of line between above the ratlines pictured above, but the instructions don't have any details - they go through the crosstree holes and tie to the middle shrouds, but I have no idea how they terminate to the upper mast.  I will have to do a little research.

 

Andy.

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The ratlines look good.

 

As for the other shrouds, an illustration of some sort would be helpful. I am not sure I know what you mean.

 

Russ

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Ahoy Andy :D 

 

I am with yea on the breaking up some of these tedious jobs. I have an old computer monitor mounted in my shop and one of those internet WiFi boxes plugged into it. Netflix is worth every penny. Nothing like popping in the shop and watching an episode of Breaking Bad and chopping away at some of these tasks. 

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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Russ,

 

Here's the instructions for what I'll call the upper shrouds:

 

post-308-0-09852500-1411333166_thumb.jpg

 

What I don't understand, or see in the instructions, is where the 6 lines (3 per side) terminate ABOVE.  They maybe wrap around the crosstree above them?  Probably ratlines on those shrouds too (sigh).

 

Andy.

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Okay, we are looking at the termination of the topmast shrouds and the bottom ends of the topgallant shrouds.

 

The foremost two shrouds on each side will be one line with an eye splice to fit around the mast and the shrouds go on with the two starboard shrouds first and the two port shrouds second. The aftermost shroud will be one line with an eye splice and the shrouds go to either side.

 

If there are cross trees above, then it will work just like what you have at the topmast. Probably no ratlines on the topgallant shrouds.

 

Russ

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Ahoy Andy :D

 

I am not at the rigging stage, nor have I ever rigged a model ship, but I have done rigging in the real world and also own Corel's full tilt version 

 

Hope these help 

post-108-0-88887200-1411335299_thumb.jpg

post-108-0-76171200-1411335308_thumb.jpg

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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Thanks Russ and J. Pett for responding - the information is most useful. I have a block tied to upper cross tree, but I'll have to move it out of the way to get the upper shrouds tied there. Also, I like the lack of a ratline requirement, I'm pretty tired of tying those.

 

Well, this will be next weekends task - my next update will have photos, I hope.

 

Thanks,

 

Andy

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Looks nice Andy. I am not sure but I believe the T'gallant shrouds were maintained for ease of mast removal in a gale. As a result their rigging was probably simpler. I will look into that more as time allows but re-doing my FROG room has taken most of my spare time of late however.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've finished the topgallant shrouds, and today added the two backstays.

 

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The mast, I think, looks crooked, but that's my camera angle combined with the stand which isn't straight.

 

I think that's pretty much it for the standing rigging.  Next up, I need to attach the yards and start the running rigging.  The yards are already built, so I need to figure out how to attach.  Any advice?  Do start from the bottom yard and go up, or the other way around?

 

Andy.

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Andy she's really looking good.  When I did the Vic cross section I worked from the top down when putting up the yards.  The main yard had the most work that needed to happen (slings, bollards etc) so I used the other yards to get my sea legs and get comfortable with the process.  Plus that ensured that I would complete a yard and rattle the rigging down and not have other items in the way of my rigging run.

Edited by divarty

Current Build

Rattlesnake

 

Previous Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HMS Victory cross section

 

 

 

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