Golden Hinde 1578 by Ferrus Manus - FINISHED - Revell - 1/96 - PLASTIC - English Galleon

[Ferrus Manus]

I failed to post this earlier out of sheer laziness. I am still, to this day, less than halfway done with the hull. I wanted this to be mostly a "chill out" build after all the effort i put into the racing yacht. And that it has been, so far. Lots of people have built models of this subject, but surprisingly, no one has built this kit on this forum. I checked, and i am the first one. Earlier in December of last year, i began painting the hull, as shown:

Later in December, i dry-fitted, then glued, the two hull halves and main deck together. This was a challenging deck to install, especially for a ship this small. Because of how the ship is designed, one must first glue the deck to one half of the hull, then glue the second half to the first half and the hull. I did a modification of this. I glued the hull halves together as well as put glue on the places where the deck was to go, and put the whole thing together at once. The considerable tumblehome characteristic of all galleons makes it nearly impossible to install the main deck the normal way. My progress:

Afterwards, i started painting and dry-fitting parts. For a kit made in the early 60's, this kit has incredibly detailed molding. What's more, the molding has held together exceptionally well. Warping and flash is almost nonexistent. 

What the Golden Hinde looked like is almost entirely up to the conjecture of nautical historians. While some kits include ornamentation of a deer and the coats of arms of Drake and his sponsors, this kit instead shows the English coat of arms. With the Golden Hinde entirely lost to history, we will never truly know. I painted the other hull pieces and the front bulkhead as well. The only fitting problem is going to be getting the foreward grating to fit properly onto the beakhead. However, that is a problem or another day. 

 

Would someone please direct Woodrat and Kirill4 to this log? their help would be immensely valuable.

[Louie da fly]

14 minutes ago, Ferrus Manus said:

some kits include ornamentation of a deer

As Baker has pointed out in his Pelican build, when the ship left England she was still called the Pelican - she was renamed during the voyage. So in that respect, your model is more correct. On the other hand, I have a feeling that only ships that actually belonged to the monarch would have the right to display the royal coat of arms. My understanding is that though on a royally approved (and subsidised?) voyage, the ship was privately owned. But that's just me being extremely picky.

 

You can actually send a private message to people you want to alert to your build. On the banner at the very top of the page there is a symbol of two intermingled "speech balloons" which allows you to do so. I'd recommend you also contact Baker, whose scratch Pelican build is very thoroughly researched. He's even put a pelican on it.

 

You're quite correct, though; nobody knows exactly what the Golden Hinde looked like. It's all conjecture, or perhaps you could say educated guesswork. There's been quite a lot discovered since this kit was produced, but generally it's a pretty good representation of a "typical" Elizabethan galleon.

 

I look forward to seeing your further progress. I think I'll pull up a chair, break out the popcorn and watch. 

 

Steven

[Ferrus Manus]

Yes, the voyage was royally approved and used ships in the English Navy. Drake was also in the navy as well. This model is of the ship right after she was rechristened and her figurehead remade, but before Drake had her painted in Spanish colors.

 

Thank you for your presence!! I missed you on my last build.

Edited January 17, 2023 by Ferrus Manus

[Ferrus Manus]

I use the messaging feature frequently. Also, i am aware that the voyage was sponsored by English nobles. The box of the kit tells a very detailed description of the story.

[rcweir]

I'm going to follow along with interest.  My brother started this kit back in the 60s (in the days when neither of us ever finished anything!)

[Ferrus Manus]

Lucky you! I actually brought the popcorn machine, some fine kernels, and chairs for everyone. I would like an audience willing to critique my every move, telling me what i am doing right and wrong, and willing to provide advice on how to move forward. 

 

Unlike the last build, this one is going on my shelf. I love galleons, and i bought this kit looking for a painting challenge.

 

I will likely use the HiSModel rigging plans.

[rcweir]

The painting is a big deal for this model and yours is looking great.  The crest on the transom looks especially convincing.  What paint are you using?

 

 

Bob

Edited January 15, 2023 by rcweir
phix tipo

[Ferrus Manus]

I am using Citadel paints. The paintwork on the model meant a lot to me. I am putting all my effort into this model. I specifically wanted a model that would be a challenge to paint, and that i got. Thank you for the congratulations, it means a great deal to see people swoon over my work. Stay around! I brought popcorn and chairs. 

[Baker]

@kirill4 @woodrat someone wants your help (see post 1)

Ps nice work ferrus

[kirill4]

On 1/15/2023 at 2:13 AM, Ferrus Manus said:

I failed to post this earlier out of sheer laziness. I am still, to this day, less than halfway done with the hull. I wanted this to be mostly a "chill out" build after all the effort i put into the racing yacht. And that it has been, so far. Lots of people have built models of this subject, but surprisingly, no one has built this kit on this forum. I checked, and i am the first one. Earlier in December of last year, i began painting the hull, as shown:

Later in December, i dry-fitted, then glued, the two hull halves and main deck together. This was a challenging deck to install, especially for a ship this small. Because of how the ship is designed, one must first glue the deck to one half of the hull, then glue the second half to the first half and the hull. I did a modification of this. I glued the hull halves together as well as put glue on the places where the deck was to go, and put the whole thing together at once. The considerable tumblehome characteristic of all galleons makes it nearly impossible to install the main deck the normal way. My progress:

Afterwards, i started painting and dry-fitting parts. For a kit made in the early 60's, this kit has incredibly detailed molding. What's more, the molding has held together exceptionally well. Warping and flash is almost nonexistent. 

What the Golden Hinde looked like is almost entirely up to the conjecture of nautical historians. While some kits include ornamentation of a deer and the coats of arms of Drake and his sponsors, this kit instead shows the English coat of arms. With the Golden Hinde entirely lost to history, we will never truly know. I painted the other hull pieces and the front bulkhead as well. The only fitting problem is going to be getting the foreward grating to fit properly onto the beakhead. However, that is a problem or another day. 

 

Would someone please direct Woodrat and Kirill4 to this log? their help would be immensely valuable.

 

On 1/15/2023 at 2:13 AM, Ferrus Manus said:

I failed to post this earlier out of sheer laziness. I am still, to this day, less than halfway done with the hull. I wanted this to be mostly a "chill out" build after all the effort i put into the racing yacht. And that it has been, so far. Lots of people have built models of this subject, but surprisingly, no one has built this kit on this forum. I checked, and i am the first one. Earlier in December of last year, i began painting the hull, as shown:

Later in December, i dry-fitted, then glued, the two hull halves and main deck together. This was a challenging deck to install, especially for a ship this small. Because of how the ship is designed, one must first glue the deck to one half of the hull, then glue the second half to the first half and the hull. I did a modification of this. I glued the hull halves together as well as put glue on the places where the deck was to go, and put the whole thing together at once. The considerable tumblehome characteristic of all galleons makes it nearly impossible to install the main deck the normal way. My progress:

Afterwards, i started painting and dry-fitting parts. For a kit made in the early 60's, this kit has incredibly detailed molding. What's more, the molding has held together exceptionally well. Warping and flash is almost nonexistent. 

What the Golden Hinde looked like is almost entirely up to the conjecture of nautical historians. While some kits include ornamentation of a deer and the coats of arms of Drake and his sponsors, this kit instead shows the English coat of arms. With the Golden Hinde entirely lost to history, we will never truly know. I painted the other hull pieces and the front bulkhead as well. The only fitting problem is going to be getting the foreward grating to fit properly onto the beakhead. However, that is a problem or another day. 

 

Would someone please direct Woodrat and Kirill4 to this log? their help would be immensely valuable.

Good day,

Dear friend,

Sorry I didn't see Your request ... what can I do for You? 

First of all, I'm sorry for my "funny" English... sometimes You be need to read between strokes ...

If I could, I would like to pay Your attention for proper painting sequence\ this part of Your building looks has some weak points for me...

As seems to me , You was a little bit harry up with painting and decoration...

if You would like to reach some wooden effect on plastic , than first of all  You need to paint entire hull or / and other parts of the model in basic color...

or even better,

first need to paint model in primer, than to paint it in base color, than to use finish color and same time You could use different kind of stains or weathering stuff in this stage....

for reference , I woulld like strongly to recommend to You closely study the way how Ab Hoving painting his models and reach perfect wooden effect in my opinion... 

https://modelshipworld.com/profile/31631-ab-hoving/

there are a few more slightly different way of making "wood "from plastic -see how Marc \@Hubac Historian @ coloring his SR

or how Michael D manage magnificant transformation plastic in wood with his Vasa project 

, and but all those methods have common that first You need to apply basic color, as usual it is variation of ochres or sand colors and after that You could try to use some brownish stuff which finaly gives wooden effect of Your plastic model... 

 

Edited January 17, 2023 by kirill4

[kirill4]

as soon as plastic transferred into wood , than You could paint décor patterns ... colored strips, triangle and so on... I 'll share my experience , how I did it on my model...if You wish...

all said above just my suggestions without You questions :))) ... please ask what You would like to ask...

All The Best 

Kirill

[Ferrus Manus]

What oils should i use to make a "wood" effect on plastic going forward? I read and studied your galleon build log immensely. What paints should i use, and how should i apply them? Thank you for your presence on my build log. I guarantee you will be getting a lot more questions. 

 

You are easily the best model ship painter i know, and i would like to learn your technique.

[kirill4]

Good day Ferrus Manus,

I will replay on a day, how did I paint my model... it is not optimal way as I understood now,when saw more easy and more effective solutions with special mediums for weathering and woodejing effects, but ok I  will tell you what I did in that time... All the best!

[woodrat]

13 hours ago, Baker said:

 @woodrat someone wants your help (see post 1)

How may I assist you Ferrus?

Woodrat

[Ferrus Manus]

To be honest i don't know yet, Woodrat. However, i guarantee i will at some point. Best to have the most skilled people on site to help out the amateur (me). 

 

Also, i have a question about your carrack. How did you get the billowing sail not to fall back down to the mast via force of gravity? I did not (as i recall) see any tack lines or bowlines.

Edited January 18, 2023 by Ferrus Manus

[Ferrus Manus]

20 hours ago, Baker said:

Ps nice work ferrus

Thank you! You have easily the best Golden Hinde model i have ever seen, and someday i would like to hold a candle to what you do. I have extensively studied your model in preparation for the rigging.

[kirill4]

OK

my experiments with paintig... years ago, may be I was in the same amateur position as You ... I saw people doing amaizing things with painting plastick/ I was interesting in wooden effect only in that time(2010 ?)...

01. Dry Pastel

I read somewhere that dry(dry only! not oil pastel) artistic pastel first need to be powdered and than this powder need to be mixed with water+vodka or any spirit and with adding some small drop of dish washing detergent ... it need to be quite concentrated solution...than this mix could be use as aging///staining ///woodening stuff ...color of pastels You could choose by yourself... but most preferable it should be @earth@ colors - more close to the wooden material in visual appearance...

here You could see results of this my early experiments :)))  

*all ingredients were reasonable low prices, works as expected...

*when dry and if You like results all work need to be fixed with deep matt acrylic varnish 

*if don't like - easily could be washed away by brush and flow water

*all mixture could be applied by artistic brush on the preliminary primed surface - mandatory use sand or variations of ochre colors as base/ I used acrylic spray paint only of some noname Chinese maker... I think  Tamya acrylic spray or any other makers will be good as well/ acrylic...I don't know how other kind of paints will interact with this hand made aging stuff? :)-

*all excessive quantity of that aging mixture could be removed from the surface by water wetted  brush or under flow water

- this way You could adjust colors depth - to apply or remove this mixture by your own taste.

*warning there is a risk of excessive vodka consumption...

than would be difficult to complete process on this day, but bright side that it could be continued in any other days when author will be back in focus again... :)))

here You could see results 

 

[Ferrus Manus]

So you paint with vodka??

 

So basically i need to use powdered pastel paints mixed with water or spirits, with a drop of dish soap as well.

 

how many parts water/spirit to how many parts pastel powder?

 

I could probably order myself some Revell powdered pastels. 

[Ferrus Manus]

The method i used to get the deck to (kind of) look like wood is generously applying water-based earth-color shade paint over the deck.

[kirill4]

spirit could increase drying speed I guess... d-wash detergent for better sticking to the surface as I could guess (but that one need to add a really small drop/end of toothpick ...?

[Ferrus Manus]

I have heard of that technique before, but i have yet to try it. My paint adhesion is generally really bad, so i guess it would be very useful. I will search for powder pastels. 

 

How much water should i mix them with?

[kirill4]

this way I painted entire hull and deck...

*later on I discovered for myself acrylic paints PLAID-FolkArts    , same company produces very nice medium for wooden and antic  effects FolkArtAntiquingMedium, 59 мл (art/No 811, 817, 819) !

*Masts and spars were painted by using PLAID paints and their mediums and other ordinary artists acrylic paints of suitable colors as well.

*For imitation wood grains on the masts and spars I used thin wire brush.

Here for the base color I used black spray first and than PLAID 936 barn wood  color paint - applied by soft brush...

and for finish colors I used mixed paints of gold ocher and umbra ordinary artistic acrylic paints which I applied by wire brush...

for aging-wood finish FolkArtAntiquingMedium No 811, 817 were used - wire brush as well!

*for painting other small detais such as blocks, knights ,kevels etc I used desert sand or beige acrylic sprays ,than PLAID caramelo\raw sienna  452 and than one of FolkArtAntiquingMedium, 59 мл (art/No 811, 817, 819

or when they were white plastic or bright colors I used strait raw sienna  452 and than one of FolkArtAntiquingMedium, 59 мл (art/No 811, 817, 819... without primer

ATTN 

after painting need to give paint couple of days for complete polymerization and even after that be better to coat it by matt acrylic varnish !!! or there will be great risk to destroy fresh paints layer

 

Edited January 18, 2023 by kirill4

[kirill4]

for painting standing rigging  I used diluted free mix of some black-umbra-brown-gold ocher and some FolkArtAntiquingMedium No 811, 817 and matt varnich and some spirit for liquidifing this mix... but actually it was not necessary to mix such many colors :)))

after mixing it becames something as dark grey-brown color or sort of... so why don't use this couple of colors I don't remember...:)

for coloring running rigging I used mix of golden ochre and umbra and matt varnish and alcohol spirit... maybe added some raw sienna 452....

But I would like to say , that coloring ropes by this stuff very inconvenient! ...

Yes it coloring good and deep, drying fast but sticking effect to the fabric very weak and when rigging your model every now and than need to repaint piece of rope where paint loosened and fall apart... much better and handy in use - to use mix of artistic oil paints diluted in white spirit and tick oil - this will dry longer but gives excellent effect!!! - see master class by Dmitry Shevelev where he demonstrates his painting technics oil paints for ropes and bitumen for hull ,etc.

Edited January 18, 2023 by kirill4

[kirill4]

2 hours ago, Ferrus Manus said:

So you paint with vodka??

 

So basically i need to use powdered pastel paints mixed with water or spirits, with a drop of dish soap as well.

 

how many parts water/spirit to how many parts pastel powder?

 

I could probably order myself some Revell powdered pastels. 

how many parts difficult to say... make some 50 ml of this mix by your own taste - it must be good rich in color... when applied on the surface it should covered painted area good... excess need to remove clean water wet brush or cotton stick or some pice of clean rags etc - there no need detailed advises - just mix and try yourself... light color base - use dark wash and vise versa

[Ferrus Manus]

Got it. At some point, i will need to go to the model shop and get some powder acrylics, then i will test various viscosities of the solution.

[kirill4]

What I would like to note, looking at the situation from this  days and my own experience , there are more easily and more predictable ways exist how to get wooden effect on painted plastic . I used dry pastels because in that time when I began my model I didn't know about other more easy and effective ways  to reach wooden effect... but I would like to admit that dry pastel method gives low price and fast drying effect and great possibilities for correction untill You fix results by varnish.... this I could say advantage of using dry pastel powder... with some experience it works good ... at least I keep in in my arsenal together with other more modern stuff 

I would like to recommend You closely study painting technics which Marc (SR) and Michael (Vasa) use for their models ,

also consider that those PLAID mediums which numbers I mentioned above specially designed for making these vintage and wooden effects on painted surfaces.

I know there are more special sets of paints of different makers exist for creating wooden effects... and from this point of view using dry pastel powder as staining medium may be not so handy as using special designed stuff?

[kirill4]

As I understood looking at foto of your model, your already started to draw ornamentations while You didn't paint hull yet, didn't You ? If this is the case - it is wrong choise of painting sequence ... need to be done it other way around

[kirill4]

To remove paint from plastic , many use a “mole”- this is a special liquid, usually used to clean the clogs of kitchen and sewer pipes, the name will differ in other countries of cause ...  

[sirdrake]

Found this thread and will be happily following along. The Revell Golden Hind was a kit that I first tried to build as a kid, but utterly failed... When I got back into the hobby many years later, that was one of the first models to build in order to compensate for my childhood trauma. It worked better this time, at least I got the thing done. Build straight out of the box: no attempt on fancy wood-like painting, using the plastic shrouds and ratlines and those "things" that are supposed to be blocks for the rigging. I didn't know better those days... 😇

The model didn't survive a move across the pond, but a few pictures of it actually still live in the depths of the internet: Golden Hind.

 

Good luck with your build! It'll be a beautiful ship.

 

Cheers,

Frank

[woodrat]

16 hours ago, Ferrus Manus said:

How did you get the billowing sail not to fall back down to the mast via force of gravity? I did not (as i recall) see any tack lines or bowlines.

It's a bit of sleight -of-hand, Ferrus, Well spotted. What is holding up the sail. There are bowlines etc but they arent doing it

What I did was simply sew the sail to the forestay and if you look carefully you can see a slight angulation in the middle of the forestay

There, the secret is out😁

Cheers

Dick