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best size drills for pilot holes for the planking nails


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Hello there everyone. 

     can anyone recommend the correct drill size for pilot holes to help with the planking nails I was told by the instructions to predrill the planks to help the planking and I'm running out drills to use I'm guessing they have to be smaller the nails right otherwise they would not help hold the planks down until the glue dries. thank you 

                               Ronald 

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I do not use nails in my planking as they split wood and have to be removed leaving holes. I glue either clamping or applying pressure with my fingers and then I drill and use trenails which look authentic to the period I am doing. Having said that, a #72 drill bit fits most nails fairly securely and I use them for pinning furniture and where a bolt would have been used. Also, concerning trenails, the #72 bit fits the 28 or 26 size on Byrne Machines draw knife for reference.

Richard.

Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777

Current scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "Unite" 1796

Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne"

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Are you using the nails for decorative purposes or to pin the first planking?  If the latter, I wouldn't bother drilling holes.  Get yourself one of these pin insertion pliers (from Micromark or other places).  Put a pin in the tool and press into the plank.  It should hold the plank while the glue dries.  I don't push the pin all the way in, but leave the pin head partially up so I can pull the pin out with the same tool after the glue has dried.  Allows you to keep reusing the pins until they dull, bend, etc.  Much much easier than pre-drilling holes and hammering pins into the plank.  

 

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They also have spring-loaded pin-pushers.  I've had mixed results with them.  One I had from Amati worked great for my first build, but then broke.  A bought a couple of others and they all had an issue or two.  The pliers above make life so much simpler.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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If you are using them to hold planks whilst planking, don’ t. They split planks and leave unsightly holes and pri marks when removed. If you are using them for Trenails again don’t, use Chuck’s monofilament line method, looks great and is faster cleaner.

 

 For planking use these clamps from Micro Mark. Drill pilot hole in bulkhead and hold plank in place. Holes are covered up as you plank and they hold very tight.

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Regards,

Jim Rogers

 

Damn the Torpedoes , Full speed ahead.   Adm David Farragut.

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ok thanks everyone 

    to answer your question if I'm using the nails only to hold the planks in place till the glue dries YES also, I was recommended to use nails thought model space Reps and the instruction even Allen shows using nails in his HMS Victory build. on YouTube and thank you Mike about the plier idea for micro mark 

                                   Ronald

 

 

 

 

Edited by ronald305
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I suggest the possibility of using medical rubber. It does not damage the wood and has strength. Can be used by wrapping around the torso. Ondras

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Ondras.

Done : President - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=90230
Under construction : Roter Lowe - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=114576

 

Member of the organizing clubhttps://wchs-c-2023.klom-admiral.cz/en

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If you are pre-shaping the planks via either spiling, or heat and edge bending as seen in Chuck Passaro's four part video series, there is no need for clamping or nailing.  If a plank is too springy to hold after a minute it probably has not been properly pre-shaped.  There are always some tough spots like the areas aft at the transoms that can be tricky but can be managed in a variety of ways including those above.   There are also some advocates of cyanoacrylate glue that sets quickly or a combination of PVA and CA.  Try these various methods and see what works best for you. 

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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4 hours ago, ronald305 said:

do you think using the Velcro bandages the nurses use at doctors' offices might work? 

I doubt that these will work as well as is wished.

 

Do a search on Amazon for non-sterile Penrose drains.

 

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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3 hours ago, allanyed said:

If you are pre-shaping the planks via either spiling, or heat and edge bending as seen in Chuck Passaro's four part video series, there is no need for clamping or nailing.  If a plank is too springy to hold after a minute it probably has not been properly pre-shaped.  There are always some tough spots like the areas aft at the transoms that can be tricky but can be managed in a variety of ways including those above.   There are also some advocates of cyanoacrylate glue that sets quickly or a combination of PVA and CA.  Try these various methods and see what works best for you. 

 

Allan

Allan's advice is worth reposting in full. If you require some sort of clamp to hold a plank's shape while the adhesive you are using takes hold, that plank hasn't been properly shaped and bent. That may often be more easily said than done, but there's no way around it and trying to overcome defects in plank fitting any other way will certainly be more work and perhaps grief than if the plank is properly shaped before it is hung. 

 

I'd only add that if your plank is properly shaped before it is offered up to the framing, use of an electric plank bender or the equivalent to apply heat to the plank at the point of attachment will speed the evaporation of the PVA's water-base and hasten the PVA's taking hold. Care must be taken not to scorch the plank face, of course.

 

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electric_plank_bender3.jpg

Edited by Bob Cleek
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"I'd only add that if your plank is properly shaped before it is offered up to the framing, use of an electric plank bender or the equivalent to apply heat to the plank at the point of attachment will speed the evaporation of the PVA's water-base and hasten the PVA's taking hold. Care must be taken not to scorch the plank face, of course"

 

One point here. You do not want to glue a soaked or wet plank as it can shrink as it dries depending on how long you soaked it. To get the best result steam bend then let the entire plank dry before gluing. I usually glue the course I did the day before and the I'll bend the next batch once my glue is dry enough which is not long. I also trenail the batch I glued the day before so there is plenty to do and drying is not holding me up.

Edited by barkeater
quote mark did not work. my bad.

Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777

Current scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "Unite" 1796

Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne"

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6 hours ago, barkeater said:

One point here. You do not want to glue a soaked or wet plank as it can shrink as it dries depending on how long you soaked it. To get the best result steam bend then let the entire plank dry before gluing. I usually glue the course I did the day before and the I'll bend the next batch once my glue is dry enough which is not long. I also trenail the batch I glued the day before so there is plenty to do and drying is not holding me up.

Some soak, boil, or steam their wood, and it's a matter of style, I suppose. There is a range of "bend-ability" among various wood species, but from a scientific standpoint, it's the heat that softens the lignin in the wood, permitting it to bend without breaking and to harden in the shape it's bent when the lignin cools. Steaming or boiling the wood only serves as a medium for applying the heat to the wood. In full-size construction, steaming is used because it is the best method of heating a full-size plank or frame timber, not because the wood needs to be wetted. It's absolutely true that a wet piece of wood may well shrink when it dries. There's no reason it needs to be wet, as illustrated by Chuck Passaro's planking tutorials.

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20 hours ago, ronald305 said:

I was recommended to use nails thought model space Reps and the instruction even Allen shows using nails in his HMS Victory build. on YouTube

Can you post a link for this video?  

Thank you 

Allan

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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3 hours ago, ronald305 said:

YouTube and type in HMS Victory build i

Yep, I tried that earlier and there are several dozen but none by anyone named Allen or Model Space.   How do you find it if you do not have a website?

 Thanks again

 

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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