David W Posted January 28 Share #1 Posted January 28 Building an Amati Fifie am experiencing a situation where the supplied wood, possibly walnut of some sort, that doesn't like to be glued. I'm putting several small brackets on the wheelhouse and tried using Starbond medium CA, they don't 'stick'. OK, I'll try my Titebond ll. Yep, they stick but instead of being able to handle this part in, say, 20-30 minutes, it comes loose. Once dry, things stick. Yes, the laser burn marks have been sanded off. When I planked that wheelhouse and experienced a bit of the same problem - but I just used more Titebond then normal. Got a quandary and just curios if this is a normal situation with some woods. Oh and that Starbond works everywhere else, as long as it's not the supplied darker woods Leap ahead, I'm about to start planking the hull First layer is something like basswood and will be PVA glued. Amati says to CA the second. I really doubt that this is a great idea. Back to TiteBond but lll waterproof since the boat will be in the water thibaultron, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Gregory Posted January 28 Solution Share #2 Posted January 28 For PVA or CA not to work suggests a problem with lack of porosity.. Sounds like the wood is sealed one way or another. thibaultron, Canute, David W and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Lad Posted January 29 Share #3 Posted January 29 Or perhaps there's a problem with some sort of grease or oil on the wood. Try washing a couple of scrap pieces with soap (and rinse off) and then try gluing - it may be the sollution. John Gregory, David W, mtaylor and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory Posted January 29 Share #4 Posted January 29 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Jim Lad said: some sort of grease or oil on the wood That would cause a problem with porosity..😁 Your suggestion might fix that... Edited January 29 by Gregory mtaylor, thibaultron, David W and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Pellett Posted January 29 Share #5 Posted January 29 It might also be because of natural oils IN the wood. For example, Teak has natural oils that can interfere with some glues. I’m not suggesting that the kit manufacturer supplied Teak. Rather it is probably some unfamiliar tropical hardwood and not real walnut. Roger mtaylor, thibaultron, Canute and 2 others 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted January 29 Share #6 Posted January 29 Is the CA old? CA glue does go bad after a time and won't hold, or at least will take longer to hold. Might be wise to try a new bottle of CA and see if it works better. Gregory, mtaylor, Canute and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David W Posted January 29 Author Share #7 Posted January 29 To cover the suggestions above and a thanks for them - Lack of porosity - possibly due to type of tree or milling process - Oily/greasy - feels dry plus everything has been sanded pretty well - Not teak but could be a tropical dark wood instead of the expected walnut. My short history with tropical woods is slim but they are usually pretty porous - The CA at this point is pretty recent, probably 6-8 months and unopened until last month. As far as shelf date, who knows. I'll struggle through but it is perplexing thibaultron, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Idea Posted January 29 Share #8 Posted January 29 Have you tried roughing up the surfaces? This has worked for me before. Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Green Posted January 29 Share #9 Posted January 29 Roger Pellet mentioned oil in the wood; a common characteristic of tropical hardwoods. Wiping the surface to be glued with acetone just before the glue is applied will solve that problem. mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dsmith20639 Posted January 29 Share #10 Posted January 29 I'm currently building the Amati Fifie (static not RC) and am in the process of applying the second layer of planking using CA with no problems. If anything I would wish for a slightly slower set up time. Using medium thickness CA by Loctite. o9c mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reklein Posted January 30 Share #11 Posted January 30 You could try using a pin to put a bunch of tiny holes in the wood, try putting the pin in a hemostat and ising it like a hammer to tap little holes in the wood. I've used this technique in the past to glue firewalls for gas engines in R/C airplanes. mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HardeeHarHar Posted January 30 Share #12 Posted January 30 On 1/29/2023 at 11:47 AM, Dsmith20639 said: I'm currently building the Amati Fifie (static not RC) and am in the process of applying the second layer of planking using CA with no problems. If anything I would wish for a slightly slower set up time. Using medium thickness CA by Loctite. o9c I recently bought a bottle of the Loctite® Super Glue Extra Time Control. I'd never seen it before. I ordered it on-line from Amazon to check it out. It is almost too slow, but so far, I like it for gluing things that need a little time to get in the intended configuration. As a bonus, it has a "reduced risk of finger bonding" 😃 David W, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaPhil Posted January 31 Share #13 Posted January 31 (edited) I use max cure superglue from just about any hobby house. My last couple batches were Bob Smith Industries off Amazon. It works great for me. It bonds metal to metal and metal to wood without a problem. It takes a few minutes to set up, but once it dries, it doesn’t let loose. Edited January 31 by GrandpaPhil David W, mtaylor and Canute 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted January 31 Share #14 Posted January 31 1 hour ago, GrandpaPhil said: I use max cure superglue from just about any hobby house. My last couple batches were Bob Smith Industries off Amazon. It works great for me. It bonds metal to metal and metal to wood without a problem. It takes a few minutes to set up, but once it dries, it doesn’t let loose. It should be noted that many hobby shops and other places are labeled with the store. Bob Smith does this if they request it but somewhere on the label might be www.bsii-inc.com and/or "Manufactured by BSI". GrandpaPhil and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex-Ks1 Posted February 1 Share #15 Posted February 1 There is a product for removing oil , grease , silicone , and any waxs off any surface . I use it , It won't harm the wood or any surface , any auto paint store sells it ,, IT WORKS. Wipe on with one rag ,wipe off with another rag . Just my two cents mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dsmith20639 Posted February 2 Share #16 Posted February 2 so what is it? mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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