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Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed


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I'll be checking back here as well.  Nice job!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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They may be a PITA to install, Bob, but they really bring your ship to life !!!

CaptainSteve
Current Build:  HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft)

My BathTub:    Queen Anne Barge (Syren Ship Models)       Log:  Queen Anne Barge (an build log)

                        Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)                 Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve
                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)
                        HMS Victory (Constructo)
Check It Out:   The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy

Website:          The Life & Boats of CaptainSteve

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Great job Bob, the Crows Feet are awkward but when done correctly look fantastic.

 

You've done yours correctly. 

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

mobbsie
All mistakes are deliberate ( me )


Current Build:- HMS Schooner Pickle

 

Completed Builds :-   Panart 1/16 Armed Launch / Pinnace ( Completed ),  Granado Cross Section 1/48

Harwich Bawley, Restoration,  Thames Barge Edme, Repair / Restoration,  Will Everard 1/67 Billings 

HMS Agamemnon 1781 - 1/64 Caldercraft KitHM Brig Badger,  HM Bomb Vessel Granado,
Thames Steam Launch Louise,  Thames Barge Edme,  Viking Dragon Boat


Next Build :-  

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Thanks so much John and Martin and the "likes".

 

No jig Martin. As I've said before, I'm the definition of low tech. I drew a line, made some dots and hoped that I drilled on the dots. :P

 

Bob

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Work on the topmast rigging is underway, with the mizzen completed. This involved doing the burton pendants, the shrouds with their sheer poles, futtock staves and ratlines, the backstays and the stay. I had to do the ratlines right after the shrouds because putting the backstays in place would have made it very difficult to to do the ratlines. The mouse on the stay is simulated with a small bead. The lower end of the stay is attached to an eyebolt in the main top with thimbles and a lanyard.

 

I'm now working on the main topmast rigging.

 

Bob

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Nice idea on the mouse.  Well done all around.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Let me see if I can found something.....

 

Yep, on picture 2....I see a little dust !

So I know that you have done it by your self Bob !!!

 

Great work !

 

Sjors

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Thanks so much Augie, Sjors and all of the "likes". I truly appreciate your continuing interest.

 

You're certainly right about that dust Sjors. Almost time for the soft brush and the vacuum.

 

Bob

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All I can say is Damn Bob, this is really nice!!!  One of my favorite MSW builds for sure.  You guys who know how to rig sure make me jealous...

Edited by cookster

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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Work on the main topmast rigging has now been completed. This included the shrouds and their sheer poles, futtock staves and ratlines, the backstays, the stay and preventer stay and the middle staysail stay. I also added a thimble seized to the masthead as a lead for the mizzen topgallant stay and cheek blocks to the masthead, one of which is used by the middle staysail stay, which then leads down to a tackle in the main top.

 

The stay and preventer stay lead through blocks on the fore masthead and end in tackles at the base of the foremast. these tackles have long tackle blocks, for which I had obtained a fiddle block kit from Syren. After a couple of tries, I wasn't happy with the result, and ended up making my own from 2 sizes of single blocks.

 

One other thing worthy of some note for those using Syren rigging line. Living in South Florida, most of the time we have air conditioning going, and only very rarely do we ever turn heat on. This past week or two, we had a cold spell (for us  :) ), and turned the heat on a couple of times. The result was thet the rigging line in place on the model relaxed considerably. What was interesting, was that the actual temperature in the house was no higher than it normally would be with air conditioning on. When the heat was turned off, the rigging lines returned to their taut condition after a couple of hours. I can't explain why this happens, but I would say that the line is quite sensitive to environmental changes.

 

I'm now working on the fore topmast rigging.

 

Bob

 

 

 

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Work on the main topmast rigging has now been completed. This included the shrouds and their sheer poles, futtock staves and ratlines, the backstays, the stay and preventer stay and the middle staysail stay. I also added a thimble seized to the masthead as a lead for the mizzen topgallant stay and cheek blocks to the masthead, one of which is used by the middle staysail stay, which then leads down to a tackle in the main top.

 

The stay and preventer stay lead through blocks on the fore masthead and end in tackles at the base of the foremast. these tackles have long tackle blocks, for which I had obtained a fiddle block kit from Syren. After a couple of tries, I wasn't happy with the result, and ended up making my own from 2 sizes of single blocks.

 

One other thing worthy of some note for those using Syren rigging line. Living in South Florida, most of the time we have air conditioning going, and only very rarely do we ever turn heat on. This past week or two, we had a cold spell (for us  :) ), and turned the heat on a couple of times. The result was thet the rigging line in place on the model relaxed considerably. What was interesting, was that the actual temperature in the house was no higher than it normally would be with air conditioning on. When the heat was turned off, the rigging lines returned to their taut condition after a couple of hours. I can't explain why this happens, but I would say that the line is quite sensitive to environmental changes.

 

I'm now working on the fore topmast rigging.

 

Bob

 

 

 

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You have some great work going on here Bob, beautiful rigging mate.

 

With regard to your slack ropes, I'm sure the rope reacts to humidity, with the heating on the humidity grows and the resulting moisture is taken up by the ropes, when the air conditioning is on this sucks out the moisture and the humidity drops. That's my theory anyway.

 

Keep up this fantastic work and I for one look forward to further updates.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

mobbsie
All mistakes are deliberate ( me )


Current Build:- HMS Schooner Pickle

 

Completed Builds :-   Panart 1/16 Armed Launch / Pinnace ( Completed ),  Granado Cross Section 1/48

Harwich Bawley, Restoration,  Thames Barge Edme, Repair / Restoration,  Will Everard 1/67 Billings 

HMS Agamemnon 1781 - 1/64 Caldercraft KitHM Brig Badger,  HM Bomb Vessel Granado,
Thames Steam Launch Louise,  Thames Barge Edme,  Viking Dragon Boat


Next Build :-  

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Beautiful rigging, Bob, the black accentuates the sharpness of your work.

 

I'll second Mobbsie's theory -- here in Oklahoma we use the AC full blast all summer (roughly 10 months), and the heat in the winter, and I watch my rigging go through the same process.  The trick is to rig only during the AC season, to avoid bending spars or masts!  But that also tells you what's happening with the wood.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

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Nice, precise work , Bob.

 

I think we'll all agree that the tautness of our rigging will vary with ambient conditions.....particularly humidity.  And it will effect each of us differently depending on the local conditions.  I'm pretty sure that once the model is put in a good case, it is somewhat protected from wild changes that can sometimes occur in certain areas.  Be interesting to hear from John (Jim Lad) on this owing to his experience in the museum.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Thanks so much Tim, Mobbsie, Martin, Augie, Sjors and the "likes". The kind words are greatly appreciated.

 

With regard to the rigging line, I have no doubt that you're right about the humidity caused by the heat, but I think that the cotton content of this line has an effect as well. Linen and synthetic line that I've used in the past haven't reacted in this way, or at least not so noticeably. I just passed this on as a caution to future users. BTW, the line is attractive and easy to work with.

 

Bob

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This will update both my progress and the state of the previously done rigging. Just as I was about to become suicidal over the possible need for major redoing of the rigging, the weather warmed up considerably and the heat went off ( hopefully for this year :angry: ). Although the lines didn't quite tighten up to where they had been, it has been sufficient to bring me back from the brink.

 

Now on to more pleasant matters. I've done the fore topmast rigging. This involved the burton pendants, shrouds and ratlines, backstays, stay and preventer stay and jib stay. In order to do the jib stay, I had to make and mount the jib boom. After mounting the jib boom, I added the heel lashing and then did the bowsprit horses and netting. The jib stay also required that cheek blocks be added to the masthead. Finally, I seized a lead block for the main topgallant stay to the masthead. Two things of some note: the stay and preventer stay pass through the sheaves in the bees and then set up with thimbles and lanyards hooked to the bows; the jib stay leads through the cheek block and then sets up with a tackle hooked to the fore channel.

 

I'm just beginning work on the topgallant/royal mast assemblies and the flying jib boom, and will then do their rigging.

 

Bob

 

 

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