Great Harry (Henry Grace A Dieu) by Robert Hamlin - Sergal - Scale ~1:64 - KIT RESTORATION

[Robert Hamlin]

Hi,

 

The subject of this posting is the large scale (1:50-1:64) Sergal model of the Great Harry/Henry Grace a Dieu.  This example appeared at a local auction house in Dunedin New Zealand.  I paid about 45USD for it.  As it dates to 1975 or thereabouts I may well be its third or fourth custodian.  The photo shows the state that it is in.  The box is wrecked, but the kit itself appears to be complete and undamaged, bar the castings and the large colour poster of the completed model, which are entirely missing.  I posted some information about this in my new member’s introduction post (Hello from New Zealand). 

 

I said that my intention was not to build this large and rare model, but to restore it so that it was capable of surviving in my own (or somebody else’s) stash until it could be built.  This build thread is thus a project that will return the kit to as close as is possible to its ‘as sold’ condition.  So it’s a bit different.

 

The response by members to this idea on the new member’s page was that the model was more incomplete than I imagined.  Maybe it is, so I am going to start by posting a very long series of photos that represent a complete record the kit and its ‘unboxing’.  This may serve to see if the dream is real or I am wasting my time. 

The box was absolutely full and the photos run to 44 images.  The two internal parts boxes are shown closed, then open and then their contents item by item.  The plank bundles were packed separately with elastic bands.  In the photos they have notes next to them indicating plank dimensions and numbers.

 

All comment is thus very welcome.  Particularly if any members have any idea what was in the three mysterious (and empty) plastic tubes that came with the model!

 

44 photos follow:

 

[Baker]

interesting project. 

Good luck 

[Keith Black]

 It seems to be more complete than I initially thought. 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

1 hour ago, Keith Black said:

 It seems to be more complete than I initially thought. 

  Indeed,  the only items missing may be the 2' x 3' wall poster of the finished model (not needed to build the kit, but perhaps a visual aid) and the castings set (pictured below - sorry for the camera flash in the middle).  Most of the bits in there are fleur-de-lis ... which may be available on the secondary market - and are conjectural as decorations.  The 3 key castings missing are; 1.)  the monster head to go on the prow, 2.) the crown to mount on the bowsprit, and 3.) the grappling anchor suspended from the bowsprit - which might be available somewhere as a part (and some sort of crown may be as well).

 

  There are also the curved knives to mount on the fore and main course yards (supposedly to cut enemy rigging when drawing alongside in battle) - visible on the Anthony Roll, but those shouldn't be too difficult to model in some medium ... or simply left off.  The rigging rope in my kit is on spools (and looks like scale rope), thus the lines pictured (if original to the kit) were re-wrapped on holders.

 

  The Sergal Great Harry kit can be built 'out of the box' to make  a fine (if large) model 'as-is', but a few modifications to the castles might bring it more in line with present scholarship and marine archeology.  My challenge was to translate the hull pieces from about 1:65 (provided) to 1:88 (with some corrections in hull lines based on the Mary Rose that has been preserved), to be compatible with the scale of the brass cannons in the kit - and also to build less of a 'beast' in terms of model size and case ultimately needed.  Its all a matter of personal preference, and sometimes a larger presentation fits the scale of the environment in which it will be displayed.

 

Edited April 3, 2024 by Snug Harbor Johnny

[Old Collingwood]

This  looks  like a  Really nice  kit.

 

OC.

[Robert Hamlin]

Hi again,

Work intervened and I have now only just got back to this.   I have now built the first replica box (for the fittings) and this process is shown via the photos below.   The process results in an extremely strong box that's near identical to the original but about equivalent in strength to fine plywood.   It's quite an involved process, but not that expensive and if it ensures the stash survival of the model, then it's worth it.  The description is detailed so that you don't have to invest the learning and bad language time that I have put into establishing this process.  I will follow this with the other internal components box, and then the main box.  I have now completed all the reconstructive artwork for these and got the things printed. 

 

So here is the photo essay:  

 

This box is a composite, involving multiple parts.  The final box has 26 separate components to it, firmly glued together to make a massively strong integrated structure.   The tools required, you will largely already have - rulers, knives, glue sticks and white craft glue.   What you may not have is a graphics package and top-end colour printer that can print out up to A0 , but the former can be substituted by PowerPoint, and the latter is available in most stationary shops these days.  Remember to 'print out' your work as a .pdf file from your PowerPoint programme or whatever, and load this onto your USB, as this can be guaranteed to print accurately when you take it down to the print shop.  That's why it's called a .pdf (portable document format) file.  Most of the files are too big to send as E-mail attachments, but can be transferred by file sharing if the USB doesn't work for you .    

 

The first task is to make up the image for the shell of the printed box lid, which is the most complex component.  This involves taking the measurements off the original and then mapping them out in a graphic design package.  In this case, the package is CorelDraw, but with a bit more mucking around Powerpoint can be used.   Any images (in this case the black roundel with the ship) are then scanned (at the printshop) and digitised as jpeg files.  These are then digitally repaired, basically by cutting bits out of undamaged areas the design, copying them and using them to repair damaged parts of the image.   the shell framework is then 'coloured in' using these repaired .jpeg  images and the fill tools in the package.   The 'Sergal' logo and the writing was recreated from scratch using the graphics package.    The final result is shown in the photo below.   The shell is printed out on it heavy paper or very light card.  This is usually around 200gsm grade.  

 

 

 

 

Just a couple of details. Do NOT put a black outline around your design, as it will wreck the final effect.  If  it's coloured use the colour boundary as a cutting guide, if it's white use a very pale gray outline.  The card will have to be scored so it folds cleanly - The score guides are black, but the they are placed around the periphery of the design (See photo below).  This means that you should score the card up BEFORE you cut it out (and cut the guides off).  Use a ruler and a blunt dinner knife (thieved out of the kitchen and returned before the domestic authorities realise it).  Make sure that the dinner knife is blunt, smooth  and rounded  - the slightest serration will cut the surface of the card and the design causing the colour to split and open up as the card is folded.   The cut and scored component is shown below.  Note the tightly spaced double score lines - this is where the shell will be folded over the bottom of the lid and the ticker card sheets that form the sides of the box.  This is done in two very close 90 degree bends to avoid 'lift' and splitting of the  shell.  

 

 

 

Now you glue the shell together using the four tabs that you have included for this!   Use craft white glue for this and use a ruler to press the tab tight into the corner as it sets.  The glued shell is shown below.  At this point it is very light and floppy.

 

 

Once it is dry cut a piece of heavier (1/16" or 1.5 mm) card out to tightly fit the bottom.  Do NOT attempt to 'pre-cut' this.  Even the most carefully mad ebox will be a mm or so out, and these errors accumulate - from now on we will be custom-fitting parts to this initial measured shell.  So take the measurements off the shell once it is complete.   Stick this base card in with a glue stick.  Do not use craft glue as the liquid will cause the shell to expand, wrinkle and disintegrate.  Make sure that every square mm is covered with glue stick glue - press and hold until it has stuck.  Do the same with thick card squares to the sides and the end of the shell.  Cut to fit each component to the main structure (see photos).

 

 

   

 

The next stage is to install the inner shell of the box.  This is made out of the same heavy paper/ light card as the outer shell, but is made of multiple components (base and four sides) that are cut to fit the existing structure.

 

 

 

 

As can be seen the four flaps of the outer shell now stands 20mm proud of the internal shell and the stiff card side and ends of the box.  If you recall, there are two lines scored here, 2mm apart, that will now allow us to easily fold these 2omm flaps down and around he bottom of the  box  and glue them to the inside of the box, thus completing the structure (photo below) - Use white craft glue for this as the glue stick will not be strong enough.  This thing should now go 'bonk' if you bang it on the table.

 

 

You now do this all over again to make the bottom of the box.  Take the measurements from your existing lid.  The outside of the bottom should be 3mm shorter and 3mm narrower than the inside of the top, thus allowing and easy but snug fit.  The bottom should be around 5mm deeper as this allows easy lifting of the lid.  The bottom is made in exactly the same way as the top.

 

 

 

The completed box alongside the original

 

 

See future postings for further excitement - Nerdy - Nooo!

Edited May 3, 2024 by Robert Hamlin

[Bill Morrison]

I'm just curious; when did Sergal produce this kit?

 

Bill

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  'Got my box off the shelf (and the main hull parts are elsewhere, as I've reproduced them - with modifications - in 1:88 to match the scale of the cannon), and it's HEAVY ... the weightiest kit I've ever lofted (aprox. 15 pounds complete).

  The drawings have the date of January 1st, 1975, ergo I surmise that the release of the kit could well have been later in 1975.  There is a lot of 'bang for the buck', and if built 'out of the box' in 1:65 will be quite large and impressive - if not something of an anachronism, since the design of the castles is quite conjectural and they do not conform to either the depiction on the Anthony Roll or the painting Henry VIII commissioned in the 1530s.  I'll make mine in 1:88 with a castle profile a lot like Louie da Fly's Henry Grace a Dieu (a log I can recommend reviewing, as it is accomplished in a much smaller scale - and masterfully done at that).

 

  The kit masting seems rather TALL for the hull proportions, and might make a ship built like that 'krank' (tending to heel easily - the 1628 Vasa being a prime example of the effect, to our benefit by raising and restoring the entire original hull).  But it is easy just to build the model with slightly less tall masting.

 

EDIT:  Now I recall reading that the Great Harry DID heel too much in brisk winds, and that was why the stern castle was reduced to improve handling.  The Mary Rose handled well as built, but the rear castle was raised and extra armaments were added prior to the action that saw her sink in Henry's sight.  It is unlikely that a 'lucky shot' from the French did her in - as it would have to be below the waterline, and most likely on the side she settle down on ... the very one we have today, and there are no breaches evident.  I rather think that the event was much like the Vasa debacle nearly a century later.

Edited June 3, 2024 by Snug Harbor Johnny